BMWSportTouring

OILHEAD: Hall Effect Sensor Repair/Replacement

Posted By: EffBee

OILHEAD: Hall Effect Sensor Repair/Replacement - 02/11/14 12:35 AM

Here's a Link on how to do this repair.
Posted By: eddd

Re: OILHEAD: Hall Effect Sensor Repair/Replacement - 02/12/14 02:27 PM

The link provides sound information but some of the steps may be unnecessary or modified to make them easier. Since the sensors themselves rarely fail I will limit my comments to updating the wiring.

- If you make good scribe marks prior to removing the HES plate you can skip all the steps involved with timing. The scribe marks allow you to easily and accurately return the plate to the exact pre dis-assembly position.

- You can skip the step where you lock the flywheel. Putting the bike in first gear and holding the rear brake will allow you to remove and re-install/torque the bolt holding the lower pulley and timing ring/cup.

- You can get to the connector by sliding the fuel tank back, but you will find that the rubber hood cover the plug will be very stiff. Simply slice the hood open to allow easy access to the connector. The slit hood can be taped back together (clean it first) when the job is completed. You will also want to clip the tie wrap that holds the cable. This will make it much easier to disconnect the connector.

- Skip the steps where the pins are removed and reinserted. simply leave a small pigtail of wire attached to the pins. You can solder the new wire to the pigtails and tape or use shrink tubing to insulate the connections.

- Make the new cable a bit longer than the original. This will make it easier to snake the connector back into place and snap it into the female connector.

- The cable can be purchased by the foot from McMaster-Carr. Enter 8219K56 in the search box. The cable will be high temperature, 22 gauge, 4 wires with a shield. You could get by with 2 feet, but 3 feet will allow you to add the extra length previously mentioned. The longer cable also allows you to make a few practice cuts of the outer cable sheath and stripping the individual wires.
Posted By: EffBee

Re: OILHEAD: Hall Effect Sensor Repair/Replacement - 02/14/14 04:39 AM

Good stuff, Eddd.
Posted By: Bud

Re: OILHEAD: Hall Effect Sensor Repair/Replacement - 06/20/14 02:55 PM

Originally Posted By: eddd
The link provides sound information but some of the steps may be unnecessary or modified to make them easier. Since the sensors themselves rarely fail I will limit my comments to updating the wiring.

- If you make good scribe marks prior to removing the HES plate you can skip all the steps involved with timing. The scribe marks allow you to easily and accurately return the plate to the exact pre dis-assembly position.

- You can skip the step where you lock the flywheel. Putting the bike in first gear and holding the rear brake will allow you to remove and re-install/torque the bolt holding the lower pulley and timing ring/cup.

- You can get to the connector by sliding the fuel tank back, but you will find that the rubber hood cover the plug will be very stiff. Simply slice the hood open to allow easy access to the connector. The slit hood can be taped back together (clean it first) when the job is completed. You will also want to clip the tie wrap that holds the cable. This will make it much easier to disconnect the connector.

- Skip the steps where the pins are removed and reinserted. simply leave a small pigtail of wire attached to the pins. You can solder the new wire to the pigtails and tape or use shrink tubing to insulate the connections.

- Make the new cable a bit longer than the original. This will make it easier to snake the connector back into place and snap it into the female connector.

- The cable can be purchased by the foot from McMaster-Carr. Enter 8219K56 in the search box. The cable will be high temperature, 22 gauge, 4 wires with a shield. You could get by with 2 feet, but 3 feet will allow you to add the extra length previously mentioned.



eddd,

I went to mcmaster and tried to order 3 feet but it only comes in 10 foot increments so min order is 10 feet.
Posted By: Stan Walker

Re: OILHEAD: Hall Effect Sensor Repair/Replacement - 06/20/14 04:00 PM

I went to mcmaster and tried to order 3 feet but it only comes in 10 foot increments so min order is 10 feet.

There is a box that says other. Check it and you can specify exact length.

Stan
Posted By: Bud

Re: OILHEAD: Hall Effect Sensor Repair/Replacement - 06/20/14 05:52 PM

Originally Posted By: Stan Walker
I went to mcmaster and tried to order 3 feet but it only comes in 10 foot increments so min order is 10 feet.

There is a box that says other. Check it and you can specify exact length.

Stan


THANK YOU Stan!!
Posted By: Lowndes

Re: OILHEAD: Hall Effect Sensor Repair/Replacement - 05/03/17 11:35 AM

The other option is to send your HES to GSAddict (one of the longtime beemer gurus on this forum) and let him rewire it with ALL the proper wire, fittings, connectors, shrink wrap (spaghetti), then test the completed unit and return it to you QUICKLY.

His email: arbcon@sunshinecoast.ca

I just got mine back and he does beautiful work. And Very reasonable, too.





Posted By: Hotmop

Re: OILHEAD: Hall Effect Sensor Repair/Replacement - 08/27/17 03:40 PM

It looks like McMaster-Carr has changed the product listing so the "other" length can now only be 15 feet or more.

The minimum stock length is 10' for $44.40 + tax/shipping.

GSAddict is quoting $110 tested and returned in 2 days.
Posted By: eddd

Re: OILHEAD: Hall Effect Sensor Repair/Replacement - 08/28/17 12:10 PM

Originally Posted By: Hotmop
It looks like McMaster-Carr has changed the product listing so the "other" length can now only be 15 feet or more.

The minimum stock length is 10' for $44.40 + tax/shipping.

GSAddict is quoting $110 tested and returned in 2 days.


The website order procedure seems to be a bit off. Go to their website, enter the item number, click on other, and put in any length you want. I just did a test order for 3' and 1' without problem. You can ignore the 15' requirement.
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