The link provides sound information but some of the steps may be unnecessary or modified to make them easier. Since the sensors themselves rarely fail I will limit my comments to updating the wiring.
- If you make good scribe marks prior to removing the HES plate you can skip all the steps involved with timing. The scribe marks allow you to easily and accurately return the plate to the exact pre dis-assembly position.
- You can skip the step where you lock the flywheel. Putting the bike in first gear and holding the rear brake will allow you to remove and re-install/torque the bolt holding the lower pulley and timing ring/cup.
- You can get to the connector by sliding the fuel tank back, but you will find that the rubber hood cover the plug will be very stiff. Simply slice the hood open to allow easy access to the connector. The slit hood can be taped back together (clean it first) when the job is completed. You will also want to clip the tie wrap that holds the cable. This will make it much easier to disconnect the connector.
- Skip the steps where the pins are removed and reinserted. simply leave a small pigtail of wire attached to the pins. You can solder the new wire to the pigtails and tape or use shrink tubing to insulate the connections.
- Make the new cable a bit longer than the original. This will make it easier to snake the connector back into place and snap it into the female connector.
- The cable can be purchased by the foot from McMaster-Carr.
Enter 8219K56 in the search box. The cable will be high temperature, 22 gauge, 4 wires with a shield. You could get by with 2 feet, but 3 feet will allow you to add the extra length previously mentioned. The longer cable also allows you to make a few practice cuts of the outer cable sheath and stripping the individual wires.