What is the bleed screw size used to replace clutch fill adapter?

I need to bleed my clutch, and would like to remove the fill adapter and replace it with a normal bleed screw, as described by others. Any good reason not to remove the fill adapter and replace it with a bleed screw? If the fill adapter is removed, can someone please confirm what size bleed screw is needed? Is it a 10mmX1.0 bleed screw from BMW or someplace else?

Thanks!

check out this site:

I used their product to replace the stock bleeder valve on my 2004 RT, made it a cinch!

LINK

The bleed screw size is 10mm x 1.0 according to the article I have from Adventure Rider.

On the advice of my mechanic, I removed the "ball valve" filling adapter from my clutch bleed hose and replaced it with a stock BMW bleed screw. I think it is 10mm by 1.0 cm, but not sure. I tried a speed bleeder and didn't like it. Anyway, it's much easier to bleed now and never leaks. You may have to apply heat to get the old adapter off.

I think it is 10mm by 1.0 cm, but not sure.

I hope not! I think you meant 10mm x 1mm. AKA... "M10 x 1", That means the thread diameter is 10mm, and the thread pitch is 1mm.

I need to bleed my clutch, and would like to remove the fill adapter and replace it with a normal bleed screw, as described by others. Any good reason not to remove the fill adapter and replace it with a bleed screw? If the fill adapter is removed, can someone please confirm what size bleed screw is needed? Is it a 10mmX1.0 bleed screw from BMW or someplace else?

 

Thanks!

Steve, you really don’t need to remove the fill adapter.. You can leave it in place if you want..

I just screw a GM #18025192- (M10X1.00) bleed screw into the stock fill adapter & bleed through that.. It has a long enough taper to open the ball in the valve when cracked opened slightly & has a decent matching taper to seal the fill adapter when screwed all the way in tight.. You can either leave it in or remove it when done bleeding..

That is a standard GM caliper bleed screw of the early to mid 2000 era so should be available from a GM dealer or probably a local auto parts store..

I have a few in a bottle here so if you can’t find one give me a holler..

Twisty

Thanks to all! I'll pick one up after work tonight.

You may have to apply heat to get the old adapter off.

Don't over heat...... DAMHIK

On the advice of my mechanic, I removed the "ball valve" filling adapter from my clutch bleed hose and replaced it with a stock BMW bleed screw. I think it is 10mm by 1.0 cm, but not sure. I tried a speed bleeder and didn't like it. Anyway, it's much easier to bleed now and never leaks. You may have to apply heat to get the old adapter off.

Mine still has the adapter. Would heat from a heat gun be sufficient or do you have to do a torch? Is it because of loctite?

I am just curious on this, I have a vacuum brake bleeder (venturi style, not a mity vac) which makes bleeding brakes on anything other than BMW servo brakes a real snap. Could that be used or do you have to do it with the clutch lever pump method only?

 

Mine still has the adapter. Would heat from a heat gun be sufficient or do you have to do a torch? Is it because of loctite?

 

I managed to melt the plastic tube that the fitting/adapter is crimped to using only a heat gun.

Yes you should use some heat to soften the locktite but do so carefully

OK, so I picked up a couple of 10mm x 1.0 bleed screws after work tonight. I bought one each of two different configurations. See attached photo. I guess there may be something other than thread size and pitch to define. I'm not in any hurry to try it (too dang cold in the garage at the moment), but any guess which is the correct one? I think Napa may have even had some other configurations at 10mm x 1.0mm. Could not find the GM equivalent mentioned by Twisty.

Steve, I would definitely go with the one with the shortest extension below the bottom of the threads (L/H one)..

Here is a rather poor picture of the one I use..

Twisty

Thanks, I'll report back after I give it a try.

May be this weekend before the temp gets up high enough!

Thanks, I'll report back after I give it a try.

May be this weekend before the temp gets up high enough!

Steve, if it doesn’t work out give me a PM & I will send you one over in the mail.. I have bunch in a jar here..

Twisty

Amazing job on the clutch bleed procedure. Thank you...

I'm not sure if you all can get to this link but these are the Speed Bleeders we'd need for all brake and clutch circuits. The model SB7100S (which you need two of) is not on Amazon, but is widely available. For the SB7100 in the cart, you will require 4 units. Many of these are sold in pairs so you'd be buying 3 extra if you buy that cart. Still only about 60 dollars. Or, try to find them in single packs locally.

I have the police bike which -- at least on the brakes -- has normal bleed screws at every caliper location. Not sure if that's how they were spec'd or if they just convert as a matter of course in the fleet service centers.

Of course if anyone wants to buy them for me, feel free...

There's a short How-To video here from the Chris Harris archive, showing how to replace the hydraulic-clutch slave cylinder bleeder nipple with a Goodridge or Stahlbus 10mm by 1mm Speed Bleeder, in the process ditching the "Werkstück" which is a one-use-only item that was fitted solely for use during factory fluid-filling on the assembly line.

https://alansykes.smugmug.com/Videos/n-GHfqGr/i-6fg845j

AL in sunny Andalucía - still no rain since last March....

There's a short How-To video here from the Chris Harris archive, showing how to replace the hydraulic-clutch slave cylinder bleeder nipple with a Goodridge or Stahlbus 10mm by 1mm Speed Bleeder, in the process ditching the "Werkstück" which is a one-use-only item that was fitted solely for use during factory fluid-filling on the assembly line.

 

https://alansykes.smugmug.com/Videos/n-GHfqGr/i-6fg845j

 

AL in sunny Andalucía - still no rain since last March....

Afternoon Alan

That factory-fill check valve is not only used for original factory fill but also used for dealer level vacuum assisted clutch system bleeding using a (PN 34 21 2330 310) bleed fitting (about $12.90).

Some of us do remove that factory check valve but it is a delicate operation as most need some heat to break loose, problem is: heating that check valve to hose interface can also allow the metal fitting on the end of the hose to pull out of the hose requiring a new expensive hose to repair.

It is much safer & actually easier to just buy (or easily make) the special bleed fitting (PN 34 21 2330 310) as that allows the factory fill/check valve assembly retention & also allows the bleed screw to be fully tightened during the bleed process & that prevents air bubbles in the bleed stream (they don't hurt anything but can confuse as it looks like there is still air in the system).

Thanks for the tip D.R.

And I note your more extensive explanation elsewhere on these forum pages, viz.:-

A bleed screw (PN 34 21 2330 310) is all that is needed to complete the bleeding with the factory fill device still fitted. Just remove the top plug then screw in PN 34 21 2330 310.

Note: The factory filling device check valve functions such that its inner check-valve is closed when the bleed screw PN 34 21 2330 310 is screwed all the way in or all the way out. In between, fluid flows out freely.

Note 2: There is also a warning in the service bulletin to thoroughly clean out all the trapped brake fluid in the check ball area before reinstalling the top plug (prevents corrosion in the check ball area).

I suppose you make your own mind up as to which method to adopt for DIY fluid replacement. I'm a devotee of the Chris Harris advice to ditch the 'Werkstück' altogether and substitute one of those overly-expensive SpeedBleeders from either Goodridge or ( here in the EU ) Stahlbus, with their spring-loaded automatic on / off ball action that prevents air being sucked back in after each expulsion stroke.

So I prefer an SB, rather than the part # you mention, whilst being very careful with an ordinary heat gun like decorators use for paint stripping, rather than a MAP Gas flamethrower, to melt the Blue Loctite slowly and gradually removing the Werkstück whilst turning the spanner.

On my very worth-while and eye-opening factory tour visit to Berlin Spandau some years ago - still available nowadays, but well-in-advance on-line booking is absolutely essential - I noticed that the assembly-line guys making up the all-German pre-Chinese-era BMW boxers, each had a tub of the blue stuff nearby and constantly dipped into it, or brushed the threads of, nearly every fixing screw they laid their hands on !

The link to the video seems to have got screwed since Saturday; it's now :-

AL in sunny Andalucía.

Revzilla.com in the US has all the speed bleeders sold separately. Here is the application chart with generic part numbers. Those part numbers embed the diameter, thread pitch, and length if you want to buy from another supplier. The R1150RT requires 10 of them.

Yes, BarryS, the SB size for your ex-Authority bike is as quoted in the video - 10mm by 1mm pitch.

I would have thought that having such a SpeedBleeder nipple on the clutch slave cylinder top-up feed is more essential than equipping all the calipers and ABS pump outlets with them.

After all, frequent and regular fluid flushes through the clutch hydraulic actuation circuit is mandatory to avoid degradation of the pesky slave cylinder's function leading to possible friction plate contamination.

AL in s.e. Spain

PS - ¿ What does DAMHIK mean ?

... PS - ¿ What does DAMHIK mean ?

Don't Ask Me How I Know

FWIW (For What Its Worth )

I bought the full set of speed bleeders for my R1150RT.... and the only one that I could get to work is the one for the clutch. The bleeders for the front and rear brake calipers had the correct threads, but would not flow. I interacted with tech support, but got zero help. At least they refunded my money. Now that this thread is resurrected, maybe someone can offer an explanation why the speedbleeders would not work?

Cap

FWIW (For What Its Worth )

 

I bought the full set of speed bleeders for my R1150RT.... and the only one that I could get to work is the one for the clutch. The bleeders for the front and rear brake calipers had the correct threads, but would not flow. I interacted with tech support, but got zero help. At least they refunded my money. Now that this thread is resurrected, maybe someone can offer an explanation why the speedbleeders would not work?

 

Cap

There is a check valve in the speed bleeder and there is also a check valve in the port it gets screwed into. If you unscrew the speed bleeder too much the check valve in the port will close; not enough and the body of the SB will close off fluid. Just crack open the bleeder and open it a little more until you get fluid moving. I have them on my R1100RT - just the 3 calipers and bleeding my brake system is a 5 or 10 minute job. So easy that I do it at least once a year.

The clutch bleeder fitting has a check valve (you need a SHORT Speedbleeder, DAMHIK) but I was not aware that the calipers had check valves.

FWIW (For What Its Worth )

 

I bought the full set of speed bleeders for my R1150RT.... and the only one that I could get to work is the one for the clutch. The bleeders for the front and rear brake calipers had the correct threads, but would not flow. I interacted with tech support, but got zero help. At least they refunded my money. Now that this thread is resurrected, maybe someone can offer an explanation why the speedbleeders would not work?

 

Cap

Morning Cap

Seeing as the one for the clutch worked OK for you but the brake bleeders didn't work for you is a puzzler.

That probably means that the brake speed-bleeders were defective, or were not opened enough to allow fluid passage into the small hole, or the passages under the bleed ports were plugged. If standard bleeders worked OK then the ports were not blocked.

On a motorcycle, personally I hate speed bleeders as they are more problems than they are worth as a simple plastic bottle or glass jar with a hose going to the bottom (below fluid level) makes a GREAT check valve & is all a person needs to do a stellar brake bleed. I have also seen a few I-ABS controller valve bodies cracked due to speed bleeder installation into the thin bleed screw areas near the corner.