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HES (Hall Effect Sensor) Replacement Options (R1100RT)


Dave R1100RT

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Evening Rx_Mich

 

Problem is; the wire pig tail insulation heat damage is usually very close to the HES itself (well below the pigtail to block fastener)

 

Only problems I have seen farther up is some 1150's had a damaged fastener clip from the factory (BMW service bulletin on this) & both 1100 & 1150 pig tail damage up under the alternator due to someone sticking a pry-bar under the alternator to adjust the belt tension.

 

Best preventive measure for the older 1100 HES wire degradation problem is to re-wire with high temp modern wire OR install a new HES with more robust wiring insulation already in place.

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Thanks Oracle,

I got it apart last night and discovered how crappy the wiring is under the outer black plastic insulation from the grommet down to the sensor wires. I did order a new one from EuroMotors for $236 to install. That being said, since I doubt Bosch has done anything to their wiring because that shoots them in their own foot not to be able to sell more parts for a known problem.

 

I have also ordered some shielded 26 AWG 5 lead 19 strand Silver plated copper aviation Tefzel wire to rebuild the old one and keep in the saddle bag.

 

My first thought is to also order some new 6 pin flat connectors that are waterproof and get rid of the old male and female BMW one. Each wire has a silicone plug where it comes into the connector on both top and bottom. I could also just fill with JB Weld to do the same thing.... just like the HES sensors are filled with epoxy. The Tefzel wiring insulation is heat resistant to 500 degrees F.

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  • 5 months later...

All,

I just rebuilt the HES in my 97 r1100rt 59k. At first look the harness looked in GOOD shape. Then a closer look at the exposed wire at the plug end showed the wire cover cracked and brittle. It was bad Bad BAD! Seeing that I decided to split the outer harness cover. The plastic wire cover fell away as I split the outer harness cover. The wire cover color was washed out especially the orange and the brown. I took on the challenge of rebuilding my unit. With the help of the forum I gathered all the bits and pieces. Now that out of the way on to the other BMW defects and shortfalls. Inferior head gaskets, QDs on the fuel lines, removing the emission can. ect...

 

Edited by Hoseman39
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  • 1 year later...
CharlestonRider

Not sure anyone is still monitoring this (somewhat) old thread, but I am hoping someone can answer a question for me. Hoping to repair my HES using the wire Eddd had mentioned in an earlier post (McMaster-Carr #8219K56) but I am a little confused about how to wire the shield wire. The McMaster-Carr wire has a braided shield and doesn't appear to have a separate wire for it. Does the braided shield need to be connected to the connector as before? If so, do I need to solder a wire to the braided shield?

 

Any info/advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

John

CharlestonRider

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Not sure anyone is still monitoring this (somewhat) old thread, but I am hoping someone can answer a question for me. Hoping to repair my HES using the wire Eddd had mentioned in an earlier post (McMaster-Carr #8219K56) but I am a little confused about how to wire the shield wire. The McMaster-Carr wire has a braided shield and doesn't appear to have a separate wire for it. Does the braided shield need to be connected to the connector as before? If so, do I need to solder a wire to the braided shield?

 

Any info/advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

John

CharlestonRider

 

 

Here is the link to the DIY post. Once you remove the outer jacket you can use a sharp pointed tool to unbraided the shield wires. Pull the untangled shield threads together and twist them into a single lead. That lead will be connected to the 6 pin connector that is under the tank. The shield just dead ends where you connect the new wiring to the wires on the sensors themselves.

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I don't know if this was offered earlier in this thread, but if DIY repair gets too much, you could ship the HES out to GSADDICT. He does the wire replacement for a reasonable fee and the work is excellent.

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I know this is a very old thread, but some of us are still riding these "very old" bikes!

 

On a trip around northern Ontario last fall with my buddies, we had one HES failure on an 02 R1150R with 32K on it, and many hours away from the closest competent and willing repair facility. Being without time or a proper place to conduct the repair, it stayed in CN while we motored back without it.

 

The failure happened suddenly while my buddy was riding through a torrential rainstorm, more like a waterspout coming across Manitoulin Island. The combination of deteriorated wiring and water intrusion were too much for it, and the HES failed.

 

Knowing what I know now, I probably could have disassembled and at least temporarily rigged the bike with some available wire and soldering iron, but that is all water under the bridge now (pardon the pun). I recommend people take this issue seriously and replace/upgrade their unit ASAP, especially if the bike has over 25-30K on it. Age and heat are probably the biggest culprits of the failure and trust me when I tell you that ditching gear riding your buddy back 12 hours "bitch" on the back of your bike is no fun. I like him a lot, but not quite like that!

 

BTW: after a $1000 tow bill, it took the BMW dealer in Toronto 2 months to finally diagnose and repair the bike for him, to the tune of over $1000CN, and he barely got it home to NE Ohio before the snows came!

 

In this case, $250 in preventative maintenance would have saved us over $2500 in total added expenses (initial and secondary tows, hotels, meals, etc) due to this untimely failure while on vacation up in the boondocks.

Edited by eburr
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Since this is an old thread I thought I'd share some pictures I took when helping a member repair the HES wiring on an R1100RT. Keep in mind that this bike was running well...until it wasn't. Failure came when the bike was cleaned by hand using regular residential water pressure from a garden hose. Until the outer jacket of the cable is sliced open you really have no idea about the condition of the individual wires inside the cable.

 

orig.jpg

 

This link give you a high def look. Once the picture loads click on it to zoom in.

 

.

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CharlestonRider

Eddd,

Thanks for the high resolution pictures. My recently purchased 1997 R1100RT only has 24K miles, but the HES wires have self-destructed. When I cut open the outer sheath a bunch of powder escaped (it reminded me of "Tang", the breakfast drink :grin:). That powder was what was left of the wire insulation. Amazing it ran at all. Glad I wasn't left stranded somewhere.

 

Thanks again for responding to my earlier question. I really appreciate it.

 

Toodles.

John

CharlestonRider

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Exactly as expected. I worry about my 02 R1100RT with 12K and my 05 Rockster with 28K. Both are probably due. I better get with the replacement routine.

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Eckhard Grohe

Me too. I have 10' of the teflon coated wire on the shelf somewhere and the weather here abouts is just above freezing so I could do a bit outside.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Hi, I have a motorcycle bmw 1150 gs 2002, the fault program gs911 indicated that I had a fault in the hall sensor, it was changed and the TPS was also changed by new ones, currently not synchronous and the fault program indicates that the hall does not work! The program does not erase the motronic fault? Should I perform the fuse procedure? How do you do that procedure? I've been told motronic is burned, can this happen?

Thanks for the help

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Hi, I have a motorcycle bmw 1150 gs 2002, the fault program gs911 indicated that I had a fault in the hall sensor, it was changed and the TPS was also changed by new ones, currently not synchronous and the fault program indicates that the hall does not work! The program does not erase the motronic fault? Should I perform the fuse procedure? How do you do that procedure? I've been told motronic is burned, can this happen?

Thanks for the help

 

Morning bmw1150gs02

 

You are posting a BMW 1150 question about your bike in someone else's BMW 1100 thread.

 

If you would like to start a "new thread" about your 1150 problem then we can address your questions there.

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Hi, I have a motorcycle bmw 1150 gs 2002, the fault program gs911 indicated that I had a fault in the hall sensor, it was changed and the TPS was also changed by new ones, currently not synchronous and the fault program indicates that the hall does not work! The program does not erase the motronic fault? Should I perform the fuse procedure? How do you do that procedure? I've been told motronic is burned, can this happen?

Thanks for the help

 

Until you start a new thread, your bike does not have a bad HES plate, if the bike starts! Read the comment on the GS911 diagnose, in red, it says that the tho sensors always show an error if you do not crank the engine prior to reading the errors.

 

Dan.

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  • 1 year later...
OldBMWMaster

This guy has done 3 for me so far...first rate job.

 

Please mail to me US Postal Service.

Do not use Fed-Ex or UPS please

Please don't value at over $30 or I may be assessed duties and taxes on this end

Turnaround is typically 1-2 days.

 

Units are rewired with Aircraft Teflon Shielded Cable and tested on a rotating tester, switching is monitored with a scope

for correct function.

Link to test setup:

http://s583.photobucket.com/user/GSAddict/library/Hall%20Sensor%201150/Hall%20Sensor%20Tester

 

Cost is $110 USD return postage included, insured for the transaction value

My Paypal is arbcon@sunshinecoast.ca

Please select "Recipient Gets USD” option

 

Mail to:

Reto Camenisch

5236 Radcliffe Rd.

Sechelt, B.C.

v0n3a2

604 885-4866

Tag contents as: Motorcycle electrical for repair & return

 

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My1998 with 130k is still going good as far as the HES. Hope I get more life out of it!

 

I understand the sentiment. But, would you really like to learn that your HES is no good in the rain, on the side of the road?

 

I had over 100k miles on my RT too, and never a hint of any problem. When I had a running problem with the bike I decided to repair the Hall sensor anyway, just to be sure. When I opened the outside sheath I found cracked insulation and sections of bare wire. It would have failed at some time and it is always inconvenient when the bike dies in the middle of a ride. The running problem turned out to be a chipped exhaust valve.

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BMWGreenRT,

 

You are "living on borrowed time" with that HES. You can choose to do it on YOUR terms, at the time and place you desire, OR you will do it wherever it might happen, which is NEVER the right time or place!!

 

What happens is heat and time (not necessarily miles) leach the plasticisers from the insulation on the 4 individual wires inside the black sheath between the HES mounting plate and the wiring connector. With a little vibration and sometimes moisture, the degraded insulation crumbles into a powder, the wires short out and the engine quits just like you hit the kill switch and will NOT restart. I knew instantly when it happened to my '99 R11RT. The sensors are bullet-proof, it's the wiring that BMW decided to save maybe 50¢ on and use the non-heat rated wire.

 

Rito (aka GSAddict on this forum) did that one for me. Excellent work, well worth the cost of admission.

 

He also swapped out my OEM HES for my '99 R11S (different connector) for one he had on-hand saving me a bunch of time on a pre-emptive repair.

 

So, put me down for +2 on what OldBMWMaster says above. Follow his instructions explicitly except; when mailing (USPS ONLY) declare the value as $0.00 on the US Customs form at the Post Office or it WILL cost you A LOT MORE. A dead HES has exactly that value so you are just being honest and correct on the form.

 

 

Before and After pics here: PICS

 

Here's a sample of Rito's work (he provides a NEW connector):

Q72Qax-GEWcSTMX28mrGoU6SSXv2rAeLwuwIlmstFZGWtsJ3cP_Y14HnuiqxPzMucxWD-CMTBmDmelGzi9Kttt6l77iUvH83DAoO7rXlNOEOW35E6j_IA2fSMVJCbVxGynaFpTlzmsPrHvFje14UYRHh2arM-3LD-dNV-wQoslXFD_ik_RHD7sV6-keWCe1ArFlsLjtpn88gdjkEuY65paBzk_IR-RUqf8VJd3ykC8PJLoOd-NoKNDH_FuVDtcKpmVKhJ-vRSnN7_Vt0tzixxCk8mSUvO13HHN7S9T4j-ri9oqoverQLPXZkWtnheQpUjs2SN3NcMMcGdAUec_nGm17-bz2DaSvrgitU3JdHt5sndmpE10eGH32s0qfsdWZ66q-1xEUv3TcTVN4LOHw2uELrqlHun3PDmRExl2ofMzlezysx1jYV4BI0Lbyhtl9GWHpj3BWTSNXvoAusqWA3X7gbGNxoz5Gk0hhCPD_Wb6_-5v3m8EB6MpRESOZHvt5uS5Zu2b5sHdN-YIQFewTVT6j4FOIoBZwGkCqYiyMQ7Z_9kuHgVSeTSZJtbz2OnKGx57iUuYaEueCpjeYHGjzMQfjpOYRYJ8z3jBJDfklSZYbw2OQWat-LqBqi7cQO6LaYri2700GwOqxWc1_7FjoJzcA0lku7DaFI=w1689-h951-no?.jpg

 

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