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Windscreen Screw stripped


Dean Wirsing

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Dean Wirsing

07 RT.

 

I was changing from my stock windscreen to my Cee Bailey Sport for the summer today, and one of my screws isn't catching any resistance. Are there any simple tricks to get this screw to catch? There's nothing wrong with the screw itself.

 

Thanks,

 

Dean

 

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I've stripped one out as well. The support arms are pretty soft aluminum. I was able to repair mine with a helicoil insert.

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I saw this on a CHP bike that came in with 2 stripped screen holes.

Since the entire arm is threaded all the way through, someone had just replaced the stock 6x16mm screws with longer 25mm screws that were identical in appearance. I dug around and found a part number.

4662 7652 556 these don't have the blue thread lock, but you can add a drop of that.

Great idea I thought so I ordered a handful to have on hand.

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If you regularly remove the screen, as I do for cleaning and service, etc., the support arm threads become worn and loose; eventually stripping.

 

I've replaced the standard BMW screws with studs made by simply cutting off the heads of appropriate-length screws. These can be Loctited or epoxied into the arms with nuts and washers to secure the windshield. This avoids wearing out the arm threads, and works as a fix for stripped arm threads, too.

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I put in longer screws. Mine are allen headed now. Common at a hardware store. I'm real careful with the torque on these now. If I do it again, Helicoil.

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I saw this on a CHP bike that came in with 2 stripped screen holes.

Since the entire arm is threaded all the way through, someone had just replaced the stock 6x16mm screws with longer 25mm screws that were identical in appearance. I dug around and found a part number.

4662 7652 556 these don't have the blue thread lock, but you can add a drop of that.

Great idea I thought so I ordered a handful to have on hand.

 

Note - the 4662 7652 556 is not *just* a longer screw, it's an M6 screw instead of the M5. You would need to drill and retap the holes. The longer screw is 63137655661 (m5x25).

 

 

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Pat_Da_Geeeze_Donahue

One of the best welders I know has mentioned that JB Weld can be drilled and tapped. You could mix some up and fill the hole then drill and tap it again.

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Now *that* is an interesting idea. Never thought of that (even though I use JB alot). I did order a replacement arm for mine as I already helicoiled it and the helicoil failed (so the original hole is larger now). If it fails again I think I will JB Weld a screw in each hole and use a nut as a previous poster had suggested..

 

Good idea though. Thanks!

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I saw this on a CHP bike that came in with 2 stripped screen holes.

Since the entire arm is threaded all the way through, someone had just replaced the stock 6x16mm screws with longer 25mm screws that were identical in appearance. I dug around and found a part number.

4662 7652 556 these don't have the blue thread lock, but you can add a drop of that.

Great idea I thought so I ordered a handful to have on hand.

 

Note - the 4662 7652 556 is not *just* a longer screw, it's an M6 screw instead of the M5. You would need to drill and retap the holes. The longer screw is 63137655661 (m5x25).

 

 

Been out of town,

Thanks for correcting this Red, good catch !

The 661, 5x25 is the one to get.

 

 

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Actually.. I think you want the M5x20 instead of the 25.

 

I just installed a new arm that I had screwed up and the M5 x 20 just bottoms out nicely. The 25 I think would be too long. In fact, the 20 wouldn't even fit on the upper screw. I think I need to tap this out.

 

I thought I had screwed up the helicoil insert, but the other one was stripped out. I'll helicoil the upper I think or cut the head off the screw and do the stud thing as was recommended earlier.

 

The dang little arm was over 100 bucks... ouch.

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  • 9 months later...
Dean Wirsing

Until I get to the dealer, I've put a longer Phillips head screw in the problem areas. This will do until I get to Columbus.

 

Dean

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