2005 R1200RT ABS in residual braking mode and no speedometer

Hi.

I am new here, I just picked up a used 2005 R1200RT today. On the way home, the Red Exclamation point lit up and the brake failure light flashes about 4 times a second. According to the manual, the ABS has gone into residual braking mode.

When this happened, the speedometer also went out. I stopped, turned the bike off, and everything was fine for about 2 miles and then it happened again.

Everything I have read so far, there may be a problem with the rear ABS sensor cable. I can't seem to find anywhere online that shows how the cable routes on the bike and how to remove it for inspection.

If anyone can help w/ some photos or links to find some information, that would be great. Also, if anyone has any other suggestions on what it may be, I am all ears.

Thank you so much, in advance for your assistance.

Evening SullyCuse

It could be the rear wheel sensor but on the 05RT it is usually the front wheel sensor cable contacting the brake rotor & wearing a chunk out of it.

As to rear sensor pig tail routing-- just follow the wire from the sensor forward as that IS the routing.

Also look for a bent spot in one of the wheel tone rings (especially if new tires were installed recently).

Otherwise you will need to get a GS-911 (or dealer computer) on your bike to look at the ABS failure codes.

Evening SullyCuse

 

It could be the rear wheel sensor but on the 05RT it is usually the front wheel sensor cable contacting the brake rotor & wearing a chunk out of it.

 

As to rear sensor pig tail routing-- just follow the wire from the sensor forward as that IS the routing.

 

Also look for a bent spot in one of the wheel tone rings (especially if new tires were installed recently).

 

Otherwise you will need to get a GS-911 (or dealer computer) on your bike to look at the ABS failure codes.

Thank you so much for your help. The dealer I bought it from, installed new tires before it was shipped to me, so I will look at wheel tone rings, as well as, the front sensor wire. Thanks again for your suggestions!

The dealer I bought it from, installed new tires before it was shipped to me, so I will look at wheel tone rings, as well as, the front sensor wire.

Morning SullyCuse

That shipping brings on another possibility-- look closely where the tie down straps were possibly attached. If not careful it is easy to pinch the ABS wheel sensor wire with the hold down straps.

Well, I got some other suggestions from other places that the issue may be a low voltage battery. I charged the battery to 100%. I also read about the ABS pretest at start and made sure not to touch the brakes until it was through the pre start check. With those two things, I had no issues when I test drove the bike for 12 miles after work tonight. I am hoping the issue is resolved.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Much appreciated.

Well, I got some other suggestions from other places that the issue may be a low voltage battery. I charged the battery to 100%. I also read about the ABS pretest at start and made sure not to touch the brakes until it was through the pre start check. With those two things, I had no issues when I test drove the bike for 12 miles after work tonight. I am hoping the issue is resolved.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions. Much appreciated.

Morning SullyCuse

I think you have more going on there than just in how you start it or on your battery charge state.

Lots of 1200RT riders start their 1200RT's every day with their foot on the brake without ABS issues (pretty difficult to start them on a hill without holding the brake while starting)

The battery charge does have some effect on the older (ABS2 bikes) but your (later) I-ABS system doesn't do it's pre-ride checks until engine start so the battery should be charging from engine alternator at that time.

The other thing is the speedometer not working. Even with a low voltage fault or a foot-on-brake fault the speedometer should still work so that more points to a wheel sensor or ABS controller internal fault.

Well, I got some other suggestions from other places that the issue may be a low voltage battery. I charged the battery to 100%. I also read about the ABS pretest at start and made sure not to touch the brakes until it was through the pre start check. With those two things, I had no issues when I test drove the bike for 12 miles after work tonight. I am hoping the issue is resolved.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions. Much appreciated.

 

Morning SullyCuse

 

I think you have more going on there than just in how you start it or on your battery charge state.

 

Lots of 1200RT riders start their 1200RT's every day with their foot on the brake without ABS issues (pretty difficult to start them on a hill without holding the brake while starting)

 

The battery charge does have some effect on the older (ABS2 bikes) but your (later) I-ABS system doesn't do it's pre-ride checks until engine start so the battery should be charging from engine alternator at that time.

 

The other thing is the speedometer not working. Even with a low voltage fault or a foot-on-brake fault the speedometer should still work so that more points to a wheel sensor or ABS controller internal fault.

Well, I will just have to ride a few more times to know for sure then. But when I rode it Monday, I have zero issues, so not sure what the problem would have been/is.

Well, I got some other suggestions from other places that the issue may be a low voltage battery. I charged the battery to 100%. I also read about the ABS pretest at start and made sure not to touch the brakes until it was through the pre start check. With those two things, I had no issues when I test drove the bike for 12 miles after work tonight. I am hoping the issue is resolved.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions. Much appreciated.

 

Morning SullyCuse

 

I think you have more going on there than just in how you start it or on your battery charge state.

 

Lots of 1200RT riders start their 1200RT's every day with their foot on the brake without ABS issues (pretty difficult to start them on a hill without holding the brake while starting)

 

The battery charge does have some effect on the older (ABS2 bikes) but your (later) I-ABS system doesn't do it's pre-ride checks until engine start so the battery should be charging from engine alternator at that time.

 

The other thing is the speedometer not working. Even with a low voltage fault or a foot-on-brake fault the speedometer should still work so that more points to a wheel sensor or ABS controller internal fault.

Well, finally had some time this morning to get out and get a good ride in. Everything was perfect, for the first 45 miles, then the brake errors returned. Not sure why it took 45 miles to finally throw the brakes into residual brake mode? I guess a trip to the dealer is going to be in order, after all.

 

Well, finally had some time this morning to get out and get a good ride in. Everything was perfect, for the first 45 miles, then the brake errors returned. Not sure why it took 45 miles to finally throw the brakes into residual brake mode? I guess a trip to the dealer is going to be in order, after all.

Afternoon SullyCuse

Did the speedometer also quit again? If so that (usually) points to one of the wheel speed sensors.

(with bike on centerstand HOT)- Make darn sure that the rear wheel doesn't excess lateral play. A loose rear wheel bearing can allow the rear wheel speed sensor teeth to move too far away from the pickup.

 

Well, finally had some time this morning to get out and get a good ride in. Everything was perfect, for the first 45 miles, then the brake errors returned. Not sure why it took 45 miles to finally throw the brakes into residual brake mode? I guess a trip to the dealer is going to be in order, after all.

 

Afternoon SullyCuse

 

Did the speedometer also quit again? If so that (usually) points to one of the wheel speed sensors.

 

(with bike on centerstand HOT)- Make darn sure that the rear wheel doesn't excess lateral play. A loose rear wheel bearing can allow the rear wheel speed sensor teeth to move too far away from the pickup.

Yep, speedometer went out as well. Also, no mileage ticked off either, so once it quit, the odometer stopped as well. Tach works fine.

Well, just got a call from the dealer. They say it is the ABS Unit that needs to be replaced. $3200+ with labor. Hard for me to believe that is the problem, when I lose the speedo and odometer too. I guess I need to find another solution here.

Well, just got a call from the dealer. They say it is the ABS Unit that needs to be replaced. $3200+ with labor. Hard for me to believe that is the problem, when I lose the speedo and odometer too. I guess I need to find another solution here.

Afternoon SullyCruse

It could very well be the problem as there have been a number of BMW 1200 I-ABS failures.

You might start with a call to ModuleMaster (888) 892-0764 to see where they are in being able to repair your ABS module.

With losing the speedometer/odometer as well as the power braking it is a bit of an issue. If the speedo/odo didn't quit then you could remove the servo part & use JUST the electronics (with a homemade cover) for speedometer input (that reverts it to non power/non ABS brakes). But your failure type sort of precludes doing that.

Afternoon SullyCruse

More:

I guess at some point you have to trust your dealers diagnosis (BUT!) dealer tecs are not always perfect, can get in a hurry, might shortcut a full system test/diagnosis, etc.

Keep in mind that I don't have the bike in front of me here but to me (personally) it still sort of points to a wheel sensor or sensor pigtail wire issue (at least they should be eliminated before spending big money on a brake controller)

Have you removed the rear wheel sensor from the final drive to make sure that it isn't covered with thick metallic goo preventing the sensor from properly reading the speed teeth????

If not you really should look at that sensor before spending big money on a brake controller.

With bike on the side stand in 1st gear slightly loosen the wheel bolts, then put bike on center stand & remover rear muffler bolt & loosen the front muffler clamp then just swing the muffler out away form the rear wheel.

Then remove rear wheel.

Then unbolt the wheel sensor & pull it out for an inspection.

When re-installing the wheel speed sensor be VERY CAREFUL to not cut or damage the rubber "O" ring.

Similar happened to my 06 RT that needed a new ABS controller at 17k mi. Does the brake servo make its normal whining noise if you just switch on ignition and squeeze the brake lever? If no noise, it's probably a bad ABS controller.

Thanks so much DirtRider and John!

The ABS and Speedo/Odo worked for 80 + miles the other day when I rode it. Then it went out. I have not checked the sensor yet, as I was hoping the dealer would do that. They did do the two recalls that had been neglected on the bike as well as replace the fuel sensor at no charge for me.

I am not going to replace the module. That money is over 1/2 of what I spent on the bike. I will check the sensor when I get it back from the dealer.

If that doesn't fix, I may just try to sell as is, and recoup some of my money. Disappointing, as is was my first BMW bike and I am not impressed, at all.

I appreciate all your help and comments on this. I will let you know what the final verdict is once I get the bike back.

 

I have not checked the sensor yet, as I was hoping the dealer would do that. They did do the two recalls that had been neglected on the bike as well as replace the fuel sensor at no charge for me.

Morning SullyCuse

Depending on the dealer don't assume that they checked anything more than the stored failure codes. But also be sure to ask the service manager & the tec that worked on the bike EXACTLY what they checked & what leads them to believe the module is the problem. (hopefully they did a more in-depth troubleshoot than just a code check)

Have you called module masters?--if not at least give them a call about your problem as they might have a cheaper module repair or a suggestion for you.

Thanks Dirtrider.

I think they just did a code check, to be honest. ModuleMasters are still doing R&D on the unit for my bike. Won't have them fully tested for another few months.

I will let you know what I find after I pick up my bike and check the rear sensor.

Thanks

ModuleMasters were doing R&D on the servo-brake controllers back in early 2013 when my '06 failed so it's taking a long time. It's too bad because they can fix most any other unit. I got mine replaced at a dealer and immediately sold the bike but some other owners just disconnected their ABS altogether instead and kept riding.

Yep, I just got a response from ModuleMasters today and they just recently made an update on their Facebook page. They said the program for getting units refurbished is a couple of months away.

Is there a link that explains how to remove the abs/servo system? Just wondering if it is the same procedure as the 1150 oilhead?

Is there a link that explains how to remove the abs/servo system? Just wondering if it is the same procedure as the 1150 oilhead?

Afternoon farmerboy

No, it is quite a bit different as the 1200RT ABS system also runs the speedometer & odometer & the tail light is controlled differently.

I don't believe it is the same, but have not been able to find anywhere that shows the removal on the 2005 or 2006 R1200RT.

I don't believe it is the same, but have not been able to find anywhere that shows the removal on the 2005 or 2006 R1200RT.

Afternoon SullyCuse

To remove the I-ABS system on the 2006/2006 you need to have a working speedo/odo with your current ABS controller.

You then unbolt the electronic end box off of your present ABS controller then build a sealed block-off plate to protect the electronics & re-install just the electronics. (that operates the brake & tail light bulb as well as gives you speedo/odo function)

You then re-plumb the brake lines direct from master cylinders to the brake calipers.

In your case you don't have a working speedo/odo so you could still remove the ABS system but will then not have a working speedometer, working odometer, or any of your onboard dash computer systems that use speedo or odo input to function.

You will also have to either install different brake light switch's OR make up a relay system to reverse the brake light switch functions & run a dual taillight/brake light bulb as well as new rear socket & additional wiring to the rear (or cobble into the license plate light circuit for tail light function.

If you can live without speedo/odo & dash computer functions that depend on speedo/odo & can handle the relay circuitry wiring & brake line re-plumbing then it is doable.

Shame about the speedo/odo being integrated into the system as it sounds relatively straightforward other than that. Are you aware of anyone who has successfully removed the abs/servo system and maybe done a "how to"?

My R1200Rt has done 68,000 miles now and I am preparing for the worst!

Module Masters is a couple months away from being able to refurb our units. This may be the ultimate solution when this is available. Just depends on what they end up charging.

https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-fte-abs3/

Module Masters is a couple months away from being able to refurb our units. This may be the ultimate solution when this is available. Just depends on what they end up charging.

 

https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-fte-abs3/

 

 

Thanks for sharing this update. Glad to know they're still working on this and making progress! I'd kinda decided they'd given up since the webpage hasn't been updated in regards to these. Good find!

Quick update on this. Had a chat, via email, today with Tyler at Module Masters. He said the Servo assist units, like on my 2005 R1200RT will not be ready for refurb by April, like I was hoping. Told him I would probably need to look to trade my bike then.

He said I may want to bypass the ABS until they are ready to refurb units. I mentioned to him about the speedo going out when my brakes go into residual mode. He told me I could send in my unit now and they can repair the electrical part now! He said the cost would be $150 and take about 5 days. I think I may do this. I will take off the unit, ship to them for the electrical repair, and then bypass the ABS when I receive it back.

Then when they are ready to refurb the units, I will have that done then.

Does anyone know of any step and/or pictures for the removal of the ABS unit and how to bypass the unit? Sounds like there needs to be a new line for the back brakes, but the front brakes are pretty easy to bypass?

Morning SullyCuse

To by-pass or remove the servo part we usually remove the electronics end & cap it off with an aluminum cover & sealer. (just keep the electronics part for speedometer input)

If you are getting the electrical part of your module repaired then you might see if THAT is the only failure part (maybe with the electrical/electronics end repaired your brake system will start working again).

I'm not sure that I would spend the money to have the electrical repaired then tear the unit apart.

If repairing the electrical end doesn't give you ABS & servo control back then possibly just plug off the brake lines into the ABS controller then re-plumb the front brake lines direct from front master cyl to calipers & make up a by-pass rear line from the rear master cylinder to rear brake hose. (note: you still might have to take the ABS controller apart to disconnect the tape inside to prevent dash warning lights from flashing or possibly find a way to externally disable the dash warning lights)-- The warning light thing is kind of a pain to disable without also effecting the brake light function & speedometer control.

Wow I just bought a 05 R1200rt all is good so far , their is a wealth of knowledge on this site especially from Dirt Rider quite knowledgeable.

Morning SullyCuse

 

To by-pass or remove the servo part we usually remove the electronics end & cap it off with an aluminum cover & sealer. (just keep the electronics part for speedometer input)

 

If you are getting the electrical part of your module repaired then you might see if THAT is the only failure part (maybe with the electrical/electronics end repaired your brake system will start working again).

 

I'm not sure that I would spend the money to have the electrical repaired then tear the unit apart.

 

If repairing the electrical end doesn't give you ABS & servo control back then possibly just plug off the brake lines into the ABS controller then re-plumb the front brake lines direct from front master cyl to calipers & make up a by-pass rear line from the rear master cylinder to rear brake hose. (note: you still might have to take the ABS controller apart to disconnect the tape inside to prevent dash warning lights from flashing or possibly find a way to externally disable the dash warning lights)-- The warning light thing is kind of a pain to disable without also effecting the brake light function & speedometer control.

Great suggestions. I probably won't remove the electrical part, as I want to get the servo part rebuilt once they have that service available. Once I get in there, I will also see if the connector may be frayed from rubbing on the frame.

If that doesn't fix the servo, I will do what you said and simply re-plumb the front and get the rear line fixed up direct. I am fine w/ not having the servo or ABS, it is the no speedometer/odometer that is driving me nuts. I am fine w/ a blinking warning light. A little electrical tape will fix that. :-)

Morning SullyCuse

If you are only worried about having a speedometer & odometer then why not just use a GPS. (GPS is usually more accurate than the speedometer anyhow)

I pretty well ONLY use a GPS on my 1200RT as I can't see the darn speedometer in the sun most of time anyhow.

That way you can wait & send the ABS controller in to have it all repaired at once.

Morning SullyCuse

 

If you are only worried about having a speedometer & odometer then why not just use a GPS. (GPS is usually more accurate than the speedometer anyhow)

 

I pretty well ONLY use a GPS on my 1200RT as I can't see the darn speedometer in the sun most of time anyhow.

 

That way you can wait & send the ABS controller in to have it all repaired at once.

 

I do that now, but I feel it is a little unethical if the miles are not being registered properly, when I go to sell the bike. Plus, I am planning an IBA Saddle Sore 1000 in June, and I need a functioning odometer for the records required to be certified.

Well, I solved MY problem. I traded today for 2007 K1200GT.. The servo brake, abs issue on the RT was just too much of pain.. I took the financial hit and traded it with a BMW dealer, who will install a brand new ABS unit, so if anyone wants a VERY nice high mile RT in the next month or so, I can point you in the right direction. :-)