Neutral switch

On my '96 R1100RT, I have what was called a "lazy neutral switch" which sometimes shows the "N" lit up, mostly does not. I cannot successfully force the light to come on. It seems to have a mind of its own (and that ain't working either). I am told this switch is attached to the rear of the transmission but I have not been able to find a switch, nor have I seen a picture of the switch. Where is it located and how do I get to it to spray clean, or does it have to be replaced? Which brings me to the 2nd question. Where is this switch listed in the BMW parts fische?

Right now, my bike is down awaiting the return of my HES from GSAddict, so I have some free time if there is a disassembly involved to reach this pesky switch.

On my '96 R1100RT, I have what was called a "lazy neutral switch" which sometimes shows the "N" lit up, mostly does not. I cannot successfully force the light to come on. It seems to have a mind of its own (and that ain't working either). I am told this switch is attached to the rear of the transmission but I have not been able to find a switch, nor have I seen a picture of the switch. Where is it located and how do I get to it to spray clean, or does it have to be replaced? Which brings me to the 2nd question. Where is this switch listed in the BMW parts fische?

 

Right now, my bike is down awaiting the return of my HES from GSAddict, so I have some free time if there is a disassembly involved to reach this pesky switch.

Evening Roger

The neutral switch is bolted under the gear position switch on rear of trans. Kind of pain to get to & no good way to clean it without removing it as the neutral switch is bolted on over it.

BMW book calls the neutral switch an IDLE SWITCH, it is located around --Diagram #61_0268 in the book.

BMW is rather "proud" of that part--$166.16 plus another $24.95 for a shaft seal. Can the switch be reached or does the drive shaft have to be removed?

I would forget about it as long as your bike starts with the clutch in.

BMW is rather "proud" of that part--$166.16 plus another $24.95 for a shaft seal. Can the switch be reached or does the drive shaft have to be removed?

Morning Roger

The switch can be reached with the rear swing arm in place BUT actual removal is up for debate. It c-a-n be removed without moving the swing arm out of the way but depending on your strange tool assortment, manual dexterity, temperament, time of month, or position of the moon it can be a real test in patience & persistence. (book calls for swing arm removal)

Most riders just don't bother until the swing arm or trans is getting removed for some other reason.

If you do attempt it then a couple of points--

If you work on it from under the bike then be DARN SURE to use a ratchet strap between the front wheel & center strand for safety reasons. (it is not that difficult to knock the bike off of the center stand when working under it)

I find it easier to remove the rear wheel & get that out of the way & possibly pull the inner fender back to gain some view of the working area.

BMW is rather "proud" of that part--$166.16 plus another $24.95 for a shaft seal. Can the switch be reached or does the drive shaft have to be removed?

 

Morning Roger

 

The switch can be reached with the rear swing arm in place BUT actual removal is up for debate. It c-a-n be removed without moving the swing arm out of the way but depending on your strange tool assortment, manual dexterity, temperament, time of month, or position of the moon it can be a real test in patience & persistence. (book calls for swing arm removal)

 

Most riders just don't bother until the swing arm or trans is getting removed for some other reason.

 

If you do attempt it then a couple of points--

 

If you work on it from under the bike then be DARN SURE to use a ratchet strap between the front wheel & center strand for safety reasons. (it is not that difficult to knock the bike off of the center stand when working under it)

 

I find it easier to remove the rear wheel & get that out of the way & possibly pull the inner fender back to gain some view of the working area.

 

Thanks for the quick response. What is the BMW book shop rate hours for R/R the neutral switch?

I would forget about it as long as your bike starts with the clutch in.

Likewise.

Chances are a replacement switch will not last any longer than the original one. It's easier and cheaper to learn to pull in the clutch to when starting the bike.

Yeah, I'm familiar with use of pulling the clutch to start. Been doing it since 1980.

What I am trying to do is re-condition an old piece of junk to make a decent rider out of it. That way, I can recoup some of my investment when I sell it. Who out there wants to buy a fixer upper? Most want to crank it and ride. I didn't know what I was getting into.

If you're trying to make a few bucks off the bike, forget replacing that $160 switch.

What else is wrong with it?

Didn't we have this conversation with you back in Jan?