My R1100RT consumables (some controversy likely)

Based on my experience with other vehicles and researching multiple Oilhead fora, here are my consumable choices, some of which may be controversial (eg, my MoS2 preference).

>>>>>>>>>> Consumables already in use:

* Engine Oil (6K): Spectro 4 (mineral) 20W50 Motorcycle Engine Lubricant

Rationale: previous owner recommendation; apparently Spectro was once BMW source; 20W50 works for SoCal; according to MSDS has 1-2% ZDDP by weight

* Transmission Oil (6K): Motul (mineral) 80W90 GL-4 and GL-5/MIL-L-2105D MoS2-reinforced Gearbox Oil

Rationale: Motul quality; specific for gearboxes (see blurb below); I like MoS2 for sliding surfaces

* Final Drive Oil (6K): Spectro (mineral) 80W90 GL-5 Motorcycle Hypoid Gear Lubricant

Rationale: previous owner recommendation; apparently Spectro was once BMW source; I don't think MoS2 is quite right for final drive bearings and maybe crown gear

* Filter Kit for the above three: MAHLE Original OC 91D Oil Filter Kit

Rationale: MAHLE quality; includes crush washers for engine, transmission and final drive

* Brake Fluid (yearly): ATE Type 200 DOT4 Amber Brake Fluid

Rationale: I use ATE 200 in everything from street cars to track cars; always compatible with brake system components including fussy BMW 750iL ABS

* Other lubrication points (yearly): Sewing machine oil; Lithium White Grease; Valvoline MoS2-fortified Grease; Marine Grease

>>>>>>>>>> Consumables soon to be in use:

* Clutch Splines Grease (yearly): Sachs 4200-080-050 High Performance Grease aka Clutch Disc Spline Grease

Rationale: my first choice, RB Racing spline lube and grease kit not available due to their BMW hiatus so went with second choice, clutch's OEM grease

* Spark Plugs (yearly): Autolite Double-Platinum APP3923

Rationale: popular Oilhead choice; specific for DISs

* Air Filter (yearly): MAHLE Micro-Star LX 578

Rationale: MAHLE quality; I'm not a K&N guy even though Mototronic 2.2 doesn't have MAF to foul with filter oil

* Fuel Filter (yearly): MAHLE Micro-Star KL 145

Rationale: MAHLE quality; will be mounted externally (yeah I have the proper expensive Gates hoses and clamps) because that's the way my cars are and I like it that way especially with R1100RT's sensitive fuel-level mechanicals

>>>>>>>>>> Consumables to be used when needed:

* Tires: Michelin Pilot Road 4 GT, 120/70-17 front on 3-spoke R1100RT wheel and 160/70-17 on 5-spoke K1200LT wheel

Rationale: Michelin is a safe albeit expensive choice; rear tire dimensions same as 160/60-18; Doran 360M TPMS sensors and maybe metal valve stems will be replaced at same time

* Brake Pads: EBC Brakes Double-H sintered EPFA363HH front and FA407HH rear

Rationale: EBC Double-H is the popular Oilhead street performance choice; EP provides extra edge I hopefully will never need

* Battery: Odyssey Extreme PC680 AGM

Rationale: previous owner already installed one; Odyssey is the popular Oilhead choice; I'm doing the diode modification to the regulator to match AGM voltage requirements

* Alternator Drive Belt: its not clear this is a consumable any more

----------

Motul blurb: This lubricant is specially recommended for noisy or loaded gearboxes such as all mechanical transmission, synchronized or not synchronized gearboxes, gearbox/differential, transfer gearboxes and hypoïd differentials without limited slip system operating under shocks, heavy loads and low revolution speed or moderate loads and high revolution speed. The standards are API GL4 and GL5 / MIL-L-2105D. It is an extreme pressure lubricant for an efficient anti wear protection and is reinforced with molybdenum bisulphide (MoS2) to handle heavy loads. The lubricant stays in 90 grade after KRL 20 hours shear test as requested by SAE J306 Standard, July 1998 update. Very high lubricating power in the oil decreases friction and wear. The 90 grade at hot temperature is to provide outstanding oil film resistance at hot temperature and / or to reduce transmission noise. It is suitable for any type of seal and yellow material used in gearboxes design and has anti-corrosion and anti-foam properties.

If you ever sell, the new owner will be getting a meticulously maintained RT.

I have only these comments:

-- Changing spark plugs annually seems excessive, although you have to remove them to adjust the valves, and plugs are cheap. I think it's the general experience that past ~50,000 miles, the valve clearances are very stable, so I check the valves every ~10,000 miles.

-- Your transmission and FD change intervals strike me as overly conservative; again, not a major expense.

-- How do you lubricate the splines? The splines on my 1999 RT were in excellent condition at 97,000 miles when I replaced the clutch, so I cleaned and lubed, and haven't bothered since.

-- 5,000/10,000 mile service intervals are easier to remember than 6,000 mile intervals, so I follow this schedule:

* Every 5,000 miles: Change engine oil/filter, blow out air filter, replace brake fluid. Cover plastic/painted surfaces when replacing brake fluid, as the stuff can be extremely damaging to both.

* Every 10,000 miles: Change transmission/FD oil, check valves, replace air filter, clean BBS bores on throttle bodies, adjust clutch free play, if needed.

* Every 10,000 miles: Check thickness of brake pads; replace if near wear limit. I like Carbone Lorraine pads from Beemer Boneyard, as they shed less dust than OEM.

* Every 50,000 miles: Replace alternator belt, check clutch and throttle cables.

If your RT still has the original rubber brake lines, replace them immediately with SS lines.

"If your RT still has the original rubber brake lines, replace them immediately with SS lines." per Selden

Also, if you have the original HES on your pre '02(?) RT, you will be changing it. Either on the side of the road or at home: your choice!!

HES is not SUPPOSED to be a consumable....