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#1000153 - 11/03/17 12:39 PM R 1200RT clutch job bits & pieces  
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 76
dduelin Offline
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dduelin  Offline
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 76
Jacksonville, FL USA
I bought Bernie's '07 1200RT and am beginning a clutch replacement on it. I'm an experienced DIY wrench after working on my own cars, boats, bikes for 45 years. My garage has a ceiling lift and the usual array of tools but no special BMW tools save a couple of things left from my airhead days. I owned an R100 for 6 years and did a clutch on that bike and a transmission replacement. I know this RT is much more complicated but I'm confident in my ability and I have patience to stop and ask questions when I run into a hang up or problem. I learned importance of the latter because I used to not have it.

I've been studying the Haynes manual plus the online resources of threads and videos and plan to get on this weekend. From those that have done this job, what is the minimum of parts and systems that have to be removed to access the clutch and the main and balancer shaft seals? I'll rely on and follow the Haynes but I have learned on other vehicles that sometime there is are legitimate short cuts or tips that experienced folks use that aren't in the manuals. The clutch job videos for instance show throttle bodies on and off, driveshafts remaining connected to transmissions or removed with the swing arm, subframe swung up our of the way or removed. Some are GSs and some are RTs, 1150s & 1200s, and models might be the difference.

Thanks in advance! I'm sure I'll be back soon.

Last edited by dduelin; 11/03/17 12:41 PM.

Dave
2015 NC700XD
2005 ST1300
2007 R1200RT
Jax, FL
IBA #33208 MOA #133008
#1000168 - 11/03/17 05:07 PM Re: R 1200RT clutch job bits & pieces [Re: dduelin]  
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,116
Highway41 Offline
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Highway41  Offline
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Jax, Fl
Can't help on repair guidance but do wish you luck and look forward to chasing you on the RT.

#1000172 - 11/03/17 06:15 PM Re: R 1200RT clutch job bits & pieces [Re: dduelin]  
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 76
dduelin Offline
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dduelin  Offline
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 76
Jacksonville, FL USA
Thanks Bill.


Dave
2015 NC700XD
2005 ST1300
2007 R1200RT
Jax, FL
IBA #33208 MOA #133008
#1000187 - 11/03/17 09:57 PM Re: R 1200RT clutch job bits & pieces [Re: dduelin]  
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 8
Dave Harding Offline
Just Joined
Dave Harding  Offline
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Posts: 8
SoCal
As I look for a used RT, was wondering how many miles on this one and the reason for the clutch replacement. And will follow this thread with interest just in case...


DigitalDave
#1000190 - 11/03/17 11:07 PM Re: R 1200RT clutch job bits & pieces [Re: dduelin]  
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,040
Tri750 Offline
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Tri750  Offline
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CA
If the rear main is to be replaced, we had a rolling A frame used to raise the rear subframe . Rafters and quality straps can do the same task.
That was the only seal we ever replaced and only of it showed traces of leakage.

Some of the tech's worked from the left side and never fully separated the two halves of the bike.
They would remove fasteners and position the bike in a "V" with the open end of the V being the left as mentioned.
Then using quality 1/4" drive tools and 3/8" adapters such as Snap-On, removing the clutch bolts one at a time, then rotating the presure plate around so they could slide the clutch out the open of the V.
If the rear main was dry, they would insert the new parts .
This shaved a couple off the book time and helped the customer as well.
Replace any clutch fasteners as the book says and account for your old ones before you button it up.


Classic Cycle Connection
Current:
1971 R75/5 roadracer
1973 Kawasaki Z1 roadracer
1976 BMW R75/6
1999 BMW R1100RT
2007 Kymco People 200S

#1000192 - 11/04/17 12:26 AM Re: R 1200RT clutch job bits & pieces [Re: dduelin]  
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 492
KER Offline
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KER  Offline
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Posts: 492
Rancho Cordova, CA
I have done a dozen+ clutches on the 1100/1150, I and finishing up on my first 1200 clutch now. It has been a total PITA from the start, of course is this an RTP so a significant issue of frustration was working around all the additional wiring that goes into the rear end of the bike. On the 1200 the rear subframe actually splits and gets removed from the bike unlike the 1100/1150 platform where the subframe folds up but stays attached. I used an engine hoist to lift and move the rear section of the bike, the wheel stays on and so does the center stand so its pretty easy to maneuver around and will stand by itself once removed. I did run into a couple hiccups when I found I didn't have the proper tools that had previously not been required on the early BMWs.

Besides just the standard tools that are common for most BMWs I had to get:
*CV Boot pliers to remove the throttle bodies ($12 on amazon, much easier to have the actual tool so you wont need to purchase new clamps when you ruin them with a flathead and needle nose pliers. http://tinyurl.com/ycwxkd8z )
*Motorcycle scissor lift ($51 from amazon, made it a lot easier to support the engine after the rear section was removed http://tinyurl.com/y9se25sh
*T55 Torx bit - the lower frame bolt uses a larger bolt than the previous bikes http://tinyurl.com/yczloec2

everything else was pretty standard stuff, clutch alignment tool, flywheel lock etc. I had a list from the service manual on the parts that need to get disconnected, I will see if I can post it up later.


'14 1200RT-P
'09 1200RT-P (wrecked)
'04 1150RT-P
'02 1150RT-P (sold)
'01 1150GS-P (sold)
#1000194 - 11/04/17 12:49 AM Re: R 1200RT clutch job bits & pieces [Re: Dave Harding]  
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,338
Living the Dream Offline
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Living the Dream  Offline
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Walnut Cove, North Carolina
Originally Posted by Dave Harding
As I look for a used RT, was wondering how many miles on this one and the reason for the clutch replacement. And will follow this thread with interest just in case...


Nearly 190k

When my tranny starting going out (a rare thing) at 70k, while the bike was split, I had the techs replace the clutch at that time. I should now be good (currently at 105k) for quite some time.


Richard
Laborare pugnare paratus sum
2014 HP4
2010 Shadow RS
2006 R1200rt
PRC-E7
#1000200 - 11/04/17 02:44 AM Re: R 1200RT clutch job bits & pieces [Re: dduelin]  
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 189
Dann Offline
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Posts: 189
Laval,, QC, Canada
KER is right on with the tools needed

I just finished replacing mine on my 07
It's a long process but even I who's not a mechanic was able to do it.

I followed the procedure in the BMW RSD Manual (used to be called the RepROM)

One thing was not mentioned in it.: You have to remove the Cable box in order to separate the frame.
You also need two grub screw to replace some of the frame screws while the bike is separated

[Linked Image]

You will need a lot of tie wraps when you reassemble the bike
You will also need the tie-wrap for the front rubber boot
It's a special size tie-wrap Part # 33 17 7 687 623

Be very careful with the drive shaft when you split the bike.
My drive shaft slipped off the FD spline when I separated the bike.
I had to remove the swing arm and the rear strut to reinstall it.

You will need to do a Throttle body sync after putting everything back together.

[Linked Image]

Hope this helps

Last edited by Dann; 11/04/17 02:49 AM.

Daniel

If you can park it, and not turn around to admire it before walking away, you bought the wrong one.
IBA # 56396
MOA # 171966
R1200RT 2007
#1000225 - 11/04/17 08:50 PM Re: R 1200RT clutch job bits & pieces [Re: dduelin]  
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 13,261
dirtrider Offline
The Oracle
dirtrider  Offline
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Posts: 13,261
Ohio
Originally Posted by dduelin
I bought Bernie's '07 1200RT and am beginning a clutch replacement on it. I'm an experienced DIY wrench after working on my own cars, boats, bikes for 45 years. My garage has a ceiling lift and the usual array of tools but no special BMW tools save a couple of things left from my airhead days. I owned an R100 for 6 years and did a clutch on that bike and a transmission replacement. I know this RT is much more complicated but I'm confident in my ability and I have patience to stop and ask questions when I run into a hang up or problem. I learned importance of the latter because I used to not have it.

I've been studying the Haynes manual plus the online resources of threads and videos and plan to get on this weekend. From those that have done this job, what is the minimum of parts and systems that have to be removed to access the clutch and the main and balancer shaft seals? I'll rely on and follow the Haynes but I have learned on other vehicles that sometime there is are legitimate short cuts or tips that experienced folks use that aren't in the manuals. The clutch job videos for instance show throttle bodies on and off, driveshafts remaining connected to transmissions or removed with the swing arm, subframe swung up our of the way or removed. Some are GSs and some are RTs, 1150s & 1200s, and models might be the difference.

Thanks in advance! I'm sure I'll be back soon.


Evening dduelin

There are a few shortcuts but as a rule in the long run they end up costing you more time or future problems.

Like on the drive shaft/swing-arm/final drive. You CAN leave those attached to the transmission & remove the entire assembly as a unit. I don't suggest that on an older 1200RT with the pre-updated drive shaft.

There have a been a number drive shaft failures on the early & mid year 1200RT's so NOW is the best time to inspect the drive shaft. The drive shaft on the 1200RT won't come out the rear so the swing arm has to be unbolted from the trans to slide it out the front of the swing arm (do you really want to do that after it is all assembled & back on the road?)

To get to the rear balancer shaft seal (kind of a pain to get out) you need LOTS of working space & a good rear view of the engine (those were also known for seeping on the earlier & mid year 1200RT's (no way would I put a clutch in an older 1200RT without also replacing the rear balance shaft seal).

If you are trying to cheat the flat rate system that is one thing but to cheat on proper repair procedures on your own motorcycle is not always the prudent thing to do.


D.R. ___
Sent from my rotory dial wall phone!
#1000232 - 11/04/17 11:14 PM Re: R 1200RT clutch job bits & pieces [Re: dduelin]  
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 76
dduelin Offline
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dduelin  Offline
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 76
Jacksonville, FL USA
Thanks all who replied. After a few hours work today I'm to the point of removing the subframe and pretty much decided to leave the swing arm in the sub frame and decouple the driveshaft from the FD. After I slide the subframe/swing arm assembly aft and off leaving the driveshaft connected to the transmission it would seem easier to then remove the driveshaft from the output shaft and inspect it. Or in my inexperience am I making a mistake thinking this?

Also I'd rather not break open the rear brake lines at the modulator which the Haynes indicates. Is it possible to remove the connection fitting found above the swing arm axis and secure the metal lines to the rear master cylinder out of the way of the rear subframe removal? The rear caliper and hose could stay with the front half.

Last edited by dduelin; 11/04/17 11:17 PM.

Dave
2015 NC700XD
2005 ST1300
2007 R1200RT
Jax, FL
IBA #33208 MOA #133008
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