Fuel pump options

Hi guys. 03 1150rt. Doing some preventive maintenance.Decided to check injectors as I've always had a pinging issue. Spray seems a little weak compared to an 04

I swapped out the 04 to my bike and still seems a little weak. Thinking probably fuel pump a little weak ? Pump has 97k on it.Beemer boneyard has a replacement aftermarket pump with new lines. Fuel filter and wires for $ 147. Is this a quality pump ? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hi guys. 03 1150rt. Doing some preventive maintenance.Decided to check injectors as I've always had a pinging issue. Spray seems a little weak compared to an 04

I swapped out the 04 to my bike and still seems a little weak. Thinking probably fuel pump a little weak ? Pump has 97k on it.Beemer boneyard has a replacement aftermarket pump with new lines. Fuel filter and wires for $ 147. Is this a quality pump ? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

Afternoon joeb

Before replacing the pump why not do a fuel return test? If you have enough pump pressure to force return fuel back through the return hose then there is nothing wrong with your pump.

The real pressure control is the fuel pressure regulator not the pump so as long as the pump has enough pressure to open the regulator & still have a decent fuel return flow then a new pump will make no difference to the injector spray.

If you are checking your injector spray by cranking the engine then a NUMBER of things from ambient temps, to throttle position, to engine temperature, to cranking speed, to engine sensor inputs can have a BIG effect on injector spray amount.

JoeB,

BBY has always been good stuff. If not, they will make it right.

Pinging (detonation, or preignition) is more a function of compression/octane and RPM. Get some non-ethanol gas, 97 octane, use the rev limiter as the shift indicator (keep the revs up) and enjoy.

The fuel pump supplies too much volume and pressure and the Pressure Regulator Valve bleeds off the excess volume and pressure returning it to the tank (supply and return lines). You could bump up the pressure with a different regulator if the pump is OK.

If you want to upgrade the injectors to EV-14, 4 hole, R1200GS type injectors, or would rather just have yours cleaned and flow tested, contact Keith Gibbons at Injector-Rehab. He is in NJ, has the kits with adapters and O-rings. Good vids on his website: Injector Rehab

Got sidetracked and DirtRider gave a much better explanation of the pump/PRV before me. ALWAYS go with whatever DirtRider says.

Thanks DR and Lowndes.

Couple of questions.

To check return flow, do I just figure out which is the return line, detach from quick disconnect, turn over engine and look for flow ?

Also, due to the age and mileage on bike and reading on this forum the many dire warnings of fuel pump failures and cracked internal fuel lines, should I replace the pump and lines anyway ? 03rt /97k

Thanks DR and Lowndes.

Couple of questions.

To check return flow, do I just figure out which is the return line, detach from quick disconnect, turn over engine and look for flow ?

Also, due to the age and mileage on bike and reading on this forum the many dire warnings of fuel pump failures and cracked internal fuel lines, should I replace the pump and lines anyway ? 03rt /97k

Afternoon Joeb

Sort of-- You can't JUST detach return line at the quick disconnect, turn over engine and look for flow as the quick disconnects (both sides) have internal check valves that shut the fuel flow off when they are disconnected. So you will either need to use something to hold the internal valve open or use another quick disconnect with a hose on it (this makes less of a mess).

OR-- just run the bike out to over 110 mph, if it will sustain 110+mph then you probably have decent (& enough) fuel flow at enough pressure)

As for "fuel pump failures and cracked internal fuel lines"-- no to the pump failures as there are very few pump failures but yes to the cracked/split internal hoses as those are somewhat common on older 1100/1150 bikes, especially one that use alcohol containing fuel. (the internal "U" shaped hose is the biggest failure point)

Added: You will probably find the pump inlet strainer discolored & brittle also (another problem point).

Thanks again.

Bike runs REAL strong. Pinging was aleays a problem in hot weather. That problem went away when i installed the Af-xied.

Of course I would never do it, but rumor has it my bike WILL run fine at 110. Sooo, in light of your responses I think I'll just clean out the injectors ( a u-tube vid showed lacquer thinner used. Good idea or bad ? ) replace tubes , filter and screen.

Thanks again.

Bike runs REAL strong. Pinging was aleays a problem in hot weather. That problem went away when i installed the Af-xied.

Of course I would never do it, but rumor has it my bike WILL run fine at 110. Sooo, in light of your responses I think I'll just clean out the injectors ( a u-tube vid showed lacquer thinner used. Good idea or bad ? ) replace tubes , filter and screen.

Afternoon Joeb

Lacquer thinner is pretty harsh, personally I wouldn't use it but I know some do. I usually just send the injectors out to be cleaned & flow tested.

If you are going into the fuel system then definitely replace the internal hoses, filter, screen, clamps, etc.

As for "fuel pump failures and cracked internal fuel lines"-- no to the pump failures...

Shortly after I acquired my new-to-me 2004 R1150RT, I wanted to replace the fuel filter, and that problematic U-shaped hose in the fuel tank. This is quite doable by any owner; but it is somewhat of a PITA. Given the PITA quotient, I elected to replace the entire assembly inside the tank, including replacement of a perfectly good fuel pump. My reasoning was that I was less likely to need to perform this task ever again, and my time is worth a lot (to me).

Cap