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Brake advice - thanks. HES question


Ben There

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Thanks to all for the brake bleeding advice. Done with that, now I am doing preventative maintenance on the Hall Effect Sensor. Following the instructions, found on this forum, I am just about to remove the HES and the instructions say to scribe two marks to assure that when I reassemble the parts the timing will be back to it's original spot. Question: Is that one scribe mark on the HES and one one the

Bike? Also in looking at the HES plate, it looks like it only goes back in one way, so why the scribe marks?

 

Thanks in advance.

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Afternoon Ben

 

I am just about to remove the HES and the instructions say to scribe two marks to assure that when I reassemble the parts the timing will be back to it's original spot. Question: Is that one scribe mark on the HES and one one theBike? -- It really doesn't matter how you do it as long as have one mark on the HES plate & a matching mark on the engine. The idea is to be able to match the re-installed HES plate in the VERY SAME place as it was removed. If you are installing a new HES then you will have to re-time it anyhow so just mark the engine on each end of the existing HES.

 

Also in looking at the HES plate, it looks like it only goes back in one way, so why the scribe marks?--The HES is slotted so it can be moved through a few degrees in each direction & THAT changes ignition timing. (if you can't get it back EXACTLY where it was then you will have to re-set the ignition timing after reassembly).

 

 

 

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DR is correct of course. Don't panic about the timing. The range of adjustment in timing by the slots in the HES plate is limited to about 5 degrees. The bike would run in probably any position in the range - maybe not great, but it would run.

 

Take a look at the Adventure Rider Hall of Wisdom document, Oilhead Timing the easy way.

http://advrider.com/index.php?resources/&page=2

 

That document discusses setting the timing and the settings for advancing or retarding the spark.

 

There is another document, Diagnosing and Replacing the Oilhead Hall Effect Sending Unit. This PDF discusses removing and repairing the HES and lays out how to build a timing box.

My personal take on it, is if you put the HES back where the scribe marks were before you will be extremely close to correct.

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If you're just trying to verify the HES is functioning correctly, I believe you can just attach leads to the HES connector under the tank and cycle around TDC. That's what I have done in the past and never understood the need to remove it from the bike for that. If you're inspecting the condition of the wires that of course is another matter. Hope that's useful!

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I rewired my HES in the summer and I would HIGHLY recommend sending it to GS Addict. It is an extremely tough job, as the splices you make will have to fit in between the plate and the front of the engine. I used crimp butt connectors covered with shrink tube. I'm very experienced at electronics assembly and it was a tricky job. My next one (on my dad's identical bike, and I bought the wire to do two) will be easier.

 

Unless you are sure of your abilities, I'd send it to Canada and let GS Addict do it! I've heard he's quick, too.

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Assuming your HES is defective, be sure to show$ -0- value on the Canadian customs forms. Any amount over $-0- will be taxed and import duties. GS Addict WILL NOT pay these taxes and import duties. Don't ask me how I know.

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Once again thanks for all the info. My RT (1998) is only at the 18,000 mile make so this is preventative maintenance to insure many more HES trouble free miles. At first glance I see no problem with the wiring or heat shrink, but will make the updated repairs, just to be sure.

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I initially thought my 2000 RS was not affected by the wiring issue, but as soon as I moved the wiring behind the plate, cracks appeared in the insulation, As I worked with it, the insulation was crumbling. If you have a 1998, it should be rewired. The consequences of its failure will follow the famous law -- "if something can go wrong, it will go wrong at the worst possible time."

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Hey, Ben,

 

The outside sheath on the HES wiring looks and is OK, it's the small wires inside that short out between each other when the insulation on them crumbles. With heat and time, the plasticisers in the insulation leach out and the plastic becomes very soft and brittle and will crumble with any movement.

 

+1 on GSAddict. Reto does a really nice job with high-quality high-temperature wire and a new connector (on the RT and RS). I had mine back in about a week as I remember.

 

+++1 on the "$0.00 value" on the HES on the little customs form at the PO. And that's the correct value for a dead HES. USPS is the cheapest shipping.

 

First two are the dead HES, the sheath is OK, the wires not so much. Second two are GSAddict's work.

 

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