Eckhard Grohe Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 (edited) I have some of the high temp wires that I bought from McMaster Carr a while ago but the instructions I find for doing the wire change are for reusing the old harness case and braid. Since I have it all in one neat package already are there any DIY instructions for changing the entire wire instead of fishing the new wires thru the old harness? TIA for your help. Edited January 16, 2018 by Eckhard Grohe Link to comment
Michaelr11 Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 This PDF doc has a section on replacing the wiring. http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf Link to comment
James in OK Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 ^^^^ This. I didn't re-use the old sleeve. My new wire had a tough outer shield already. Link to comment
eddd Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 I have some of the high temp wires that I bought from McMaster Carr a while ago but the instructions I find for doing the wire change are for reusing the old harness case and braid. Since I have it all in one neat package already are there any DIY instructions for changing the entire wire instead of fishing the new wires thru the old harness? TIA for your help. I added some suggestions to those old instructions. Check the link below and you'll see my suggestions. Link Link to comment
Eckhard Grohe Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 I was thinking of putting the connector body on after I threaded the wire thru. Does this make sense? Link to comment
eddd Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 I was thinking of putting the connector body on after I threaded the wire thru. Does this make sense? I'm unclear what you are asking. Please clarify what you mean by "threading the wire thru". Thru where? The old wire/cable attached to the sensors (including the sheath) is completely removed. If you mean you will thread the new cable up under the alternator and then try to tie it into the connector below the tank, that will make the job much more difficult/frustrating. With a little extra length of new cable as I suggest, it is quite easy to do the complete re-wire on a work bench and then slip the connector under the alternator and back to its previous position. Again, please clarify if I'm off on my guess as to what you meant. Link to comment
Eckhard Grohe Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 (edited) Please clarify what you mean by "threading the wire thru". Thru where? The original Hager article I have seen keeps the old sheath and braid and then threads the individual wires thru this. I was planning on going the original route but I thought that the problem was threading the connector body under the alternator. By attaching the connector body after passing the wire, with pins attached, under the alternator I was hoping to save some grief. After reading you posts and seeing the pictures of the repair by GSAddict I plan to use the wire from McMaster as it is, making it longer by 5 or 6 inches longer and taking the easiest route to the connector. I do wonder if the white colored sheath of the McMaster wire is UV resistant and do I cover it with some black sheath for UV resistaance. Or am I being to anal here. Edited January 17, 2018 by Eckhard Grohe Link to comment
dave_a Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Eckhard, I was unable to re-use the oem sheathing - my wiring was larger diameter. I used hi temp self amalgamating tape and a heat shrink cover. Anything was better than what came from the factory. IMHO. (you know, since it all fell off the wires!) / Dave Link to comment
AndyS Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 The sheaths I have seen are often wrecked. Link to comment
eddd Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 The new wire from McMaster completely replaces the old wiring. No additional material/covering is needed. It was designed for applications like the HES, and is in the type of wiring that should have been used by BMW in the first place. Link to comment
Eckhard Grohe Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 With a little extra length of new cable as I suggest, What long would this extra length be? Eckhard Link to comment
lkchris Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 The new wire from McMaster completely replaces the old wiring. No additional material/covering is needed. It was designed for applications like the HES, and is in the type of wiring that should have been used by BMW in the first place. BMW used biodegradable wiring to comply with German law. Link to comment
eddd Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 With a little extra length of new cable as I suggest, What long would this extra length be? Eckhard I used around 4-6 inches extra. Link to comment
Eckhard Grohe Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 BMW used biodegradable wiring to comply with German law. So when does the rest of the wiring harness go belly up? Link to comment
Sam Taylor Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 BMW used biodegradable wiring to comply with German law. Along with biodegradeable brake hoses, fuel hoses, grommets, bumpers, seals, grips, etc. I've never had bikes that were so sensitive to rubber parts. Link to comment
Eckhard Grohe Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 What would be the best type of heat shrink tubing to use on this project?? Adhesive lined. Are there any tricks for sealing the cable just before the connector to prevent water from wicking along the cable? Link to comment
AndyS Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 Eckhard, I would avoid heatshrink altogether. I would recommend something similar like this: http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/1579/0900766b815799a5.pdf This will be much more flexible than shrunk heatshrink. In fact much more like OEM loom covering. Link to comment
eddd Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 What would be the best type of heat shrink tubing to use on this project?? Adhesive lined. Are there any tricks for sealing the cable just before the connector to prevent water from wicking along the cable? Scotch 70 Self-Fusing silicone rubber electrical tape is what I have used to seal the connections down by the sensors. It is a fantastic product that can be used in a variety of situations. You can find other brands of self-fusing tape that will be less expensive and offer smaller lengths for those who don't have need for the larger rolls. Link to comment
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