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Installing K&N air filter worth it?


Zapata

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Hello Team:

 

Is really worth it to install the K&N air filter? (higher air flow). In my other bikes, I always do that in conjunction with an open slip-on and FI controller (stage 1). Not sure if the RT needs to go stage 1 because I feel it already pulls very fast.

 

Also, can I replace the air filter with just removing the fairing on the right side?

 

Thank you very much.

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More air flow equals more dirt particles passing through.

I doubt you'll notice any improvement in performance. It's all computer controlled.

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Hello Team:

 

Is really worth it to install the K&N air filter? (higher air flow). In my other bikes, I always do that in conjunction with an open slip-on and FI controller (stage 1). Not sure if the RT needs to go stage 1 because I feel it already pulls very fast.

 

Also, can I replace the air filter with just removing the fairing on the right side?

 

Thank you very much.

Hello Team:

 

Is really worth it to install the K&N air filter? (higher air flow). In my other bikes, I always do that in conjunction with an open slip-on and FI controller (stage 1). Not sure if the RT needs to go stage 1 because I feel it already pulls very fast.

 

Also, can I replace the air filter with just removing the fairing on the right side?

 

Thank you very much.

 

Morning Zapata

 

Your engine already gets ALL the air that it needs plus some extra so adding a hi-flow air filter will not gain any performance.

 

To me the only upside to installing a K&N (or similar oil'd type filter) is that it allows better water handling/water ingestion. Paper type filter elements can swell up when wet & oil'd fabric doesn't. (so if you ride through waist deep rivers then maybe some benefit to the K&N after you drain the water out of the engine)

 

Yes, you can access the air filter from under the R/H side fairing, just be careful of the R/H side throttle cable so you mis-route that when you remove/re-install the filter cover.

 

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Hello Team:

 

Is really worth it to install the K&N air filter? (higher air flow). In my other bikes, I always do that in conjunction with an open slip-on and FI controller (stage 1). Not sure if the RT needs to go stage 1 because I feel it already pulls very fast.

 

Also, can I replace the air filter with just removing the fairing on the right side?

 

Thank you very much.

I run K&N filters because you can wash them and re-oil and they are as good as new, so over time, if you keep the bike for many years, then they pay for themselves over the stock unit. Also, although the measured performance gain is probably negligible, the engine is an air pump and if the K&N has slightly less pressure loss across it versus a stock unit, then theoretically the engine can pump more air which means more fuel is injected and thus slightly more HP and torque could be produced. However, if this is your main reason then I would not spend my money.

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The last K&N I had many years ago I could see light through. K&N = bug screen? The stock filters seem to flow well and the main thing is to filter dirt that can prematurely wear engine parts.

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The last K&N I had many years ago I could see light through. K&N = bug screen? The stock filters seem to flow well and the main thing is to filter dirt that can prematurely wear engine parts.

 

Sure you oiled it. Never do or could see light through mine after washing and properly oiling it. Have used them for years in both motorcycles and cars. Never had a problem. I think over time they save me money as I keep my vehicles longer than most. Stock filters are not cheap.

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Yes, oiled per instructions with K&N oil. It was back in the 80's used on a Honda CB1100F. That motor got tired early before 12k miles from many factors including running hot as blue blazes, In hindsight I have questioned if the K&N was a good idea. I agree the stock filters aren't cheap, but then neither is the bike they are protecting. I'm just saying I'm using what BMW thinks is best in my bike. :wave:

Edited by sardineone
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  • 3 weeks later...

There used to be an article posted at the IBMWR site where someone found the tool to measure airflow downstream from the filter on a K100.

 

The findings were that there were ZERO airflow differences between

K&N filter

Stock filter

Stock filter half blocked off

No filter.

 

It's just hype. And, what I've noticed regarding K&N is that they do best when your filter is round to surround a carburetor intake. If your filter is rectangular to fit in an airbox, K&N doesn't do particularly will in providing the correct dimensions.

 

Finally, I think it's the ethical thing to do when selling your bike to disclose that you've fitted a K&N ... because that filter's poor filtration capabilities will result in a more worn engine.

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This piece is more than 20 years old, but reading it was enough to steer me away from K&N forever.

 

Subj: K & N filters

To: John M. S., January 21, 1995 5:14:10 PM

From: George M.

 

I was responsible for evaluating re-usable air filters for a major construction/mining company that had hundreds of vehicles ranging from large earthmovers to pick-up trucks and salesmen's cars. This study was embarked upon due to the fact that we were spending upwards of $30,000 a MONTH on paper air filters. Using them one time then throwing them away. I inititated the study in that I was convinced that a K&N type filter or oiled foam would save us many dollars per year in filter savings, man hour savings, and of course engines as these would filter dirt better than paper. (yes, I had read the K&N ads and was a believer) Representative test units were chosen to give us a broad spectrum from cars right through large front end loaders. With each unit we had a long history of oil analysis records so that changes would be trackable.

 

Unfortunately, for me, every single unit having alternative re-usable air cleaners showed an immediate large jump in silicon (dirt) levels with corresponding major increases in wear metals. In one extreme case, a unit with a primary and secondary air cleaner, the secondary (small paper element) clogged before even one day's test run could be completed. This particular unit had a Cummins V-12 engine that had paper/paper one one bank and K&N/paper on the other bank; two completely independent induction systems. The conditions were EXACTLY duplicated for each bank yet the K&N allowed so much dirt to pass through that the small filter became clogged before lunch. The same outcome occurred with oiled foams on this unit.

 

We discontinued the tests on the large pieces almost immediately but continued with service trucks, formen's vehicles, and my own company car. Analysis results continued showing markedly increased wear rates for all the vehicles, mine included. Test concluded, switched back to paper/glass and all vehicles showed reduction back to near original level of both wear metals and dirt. I continued with the K&N on my company car out of stubborness and at 85,000 miles the Chevy 305 V-8 wheezed its last breath. The top end was sanded badly; bottom end was just fine. End of test.

 

I must stress that EVERYONE involved in this test was hoping that alternative filters would work as everyone was sick about pulling out a perfectly good $85 air cleaner and throwing 4 of them away each week per machine...

 

So, I strongly suggest that depending upon an individual's long term plan for their vehicles they simply run an oil analysis at least once to see that the K&N or whatever alternative air filter is indeed working IN THAT APPLICATION... It depends on a person's priorities. If you want performance then indeed the K&N is the way to go but at what cost???

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We saw more than a few who converted.

None benefited wrt co$t, wear and tear, overall health of the machine.

Some were downright awful messes.

.02

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For road use only it's ok in combination with a cold air intake like I did with my truck. This set up worked well for my work truck, but on a dirt bike or GS no way. I have pulled plenty of sand/dust out of the paper filters on my GSA and was happy I stuck with OEM.

IIRC, I believe that K&N offers or offered, foam pre-filters for dusty conditions. YMMV..

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  • 1 month later...
Eckhard Grohe

No one ever mentions the environmental costs of cleaning the filter with solvent and then "properly" disposing of it.

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Be sure to post your VIN so we all can be aware of a K&N bike when contemplating purchasing a used bike.

 

Perfect and funny.

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No one ever mentions the environmental costs of cleaning the filter with solvent and then "properly" disposing of it.

 

Afternoon Eckhard

 

Same as they never mention the environmental costs or environmental impact of manufacturing new replacement filters.

 

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Hello Team:

 

Is really worth it to install the K&N air filter? (higher air flow). In my other bikes, I always do that in conjunction with an open slip-on and FI controller (stage 1). Not sure if the RT needs to go stage 1 because I feel it already pulls very fast.

 

Also, can I replace the air filter with just removing the fairing on the right side?

 

No.

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Hello Team:

 

Is it really worth it to install the K&N air filter? (higher air flow). In my other bikes, I always do that in conjunction with an open slip-on and FI controller (stage 1). Not sure if the RT needs to go stage 1 because I feel it already pulls very fast.

 

Also, can I replace the air filter with just removing the fairing on the right side?

 

No.

 

Morning Lester

 

The filter element is not the air restriction point on the 1200RT, as can be seen in the picture below the intake air restriction is NOT at the large filter, the main intake restriction point is at the small inlet snorkel opening that BMW is required to use for intake noise reduction & water ingestion.

 

fSWoanZ.jpg

 

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Hello Team:

 

Is it really worth it to install the K&N air filter? (higher air flow). In my other bikes, I always do that in conjunction with an open slip-on and FI controller (stage 1). Not sure if the RT needs to go stage 1 because I feel it already pulls very fast.

 

Also, can I replace the air filter with just removing the fairing on the right side?

 

No.

 

Morning Lester

 

The filter element is not the air restriction point on the 1200RT, as can be seen in the picture below the intake air restriction is NOT at the large filter, the main intake restriction point is at the small inlet snorkel opening that BMW is required to use for intake noise reduction & water ingestion.

 

fSWoanZ.jpg

 

 

 

sorry dr. i just said said 'no;' to putting in the k and n and if it was worth it. I didn't even go into the cost/pr not benefits. There are a lot of reasons i didn't get into more of why 'no'. . i.e such as the sand getting into the airbox below the filter.

I wasn't the one who made the comment that you are coming back to me with.

 

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