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Windshield finally died...


philbytx

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I've had intermittent issues with my windshield and thought I had it fixed (some contact cleaner in the switch coupled with a good thump on the windshield) but now its totally died. No up or down...fortunately it is stuck down!

 

So I now have to get in to the windshield mechanism and check the relays, so I do have one question. Do I need to remove the whole nose cone to get at them or can I just get in to check/replace them by removing just the piece under the windshield and the internal piece (instrument panel)?

 

Thanks guys...

 

Edited by philbytx
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Philbytx,

 

You may be able to get to the relays using the method you outline, but I'd go ahead and remove the nose. For sure, check the relays. On mine, the screen would go up, but not down. Checked the relays and that was the problem. If that doesn't do it, disconnect the motor wiring and apply 12v to the motor to see if that's the problem. If the motor works, put a meter on the switch site of the wiring to see if your switch is working. Of course, to do all that, nose has to come off...

 

Cheers,

Mark

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Morning Phil

 

You can check a lot without removing anything from the front.

 

Start by verifying both fuse 3 & fuse 9 are good (don't just look but actually ohm them out)

 

Then start with up/down switch & verify that you have 12v getting to the switch on the green/blue wire.

 

Then put a voltmeter or test light between a clean chassis ground & the blue/yellow wire & push the switch in both directions (one direction should show voltage)

 

Then put the meter or test light on the blue/violet wire & move the switch the other direction , that wire should now show 12v.

 

If the tests out OK then you will have to dig into the front as far as you need to go to check the relays, motor, & up/down limit switches.

 

I sent you a PM on the windshield operation & power flow operation. The only problem is that it is for the BMW 1100 bike & not the 1150 bike. The basic motor operation, switch input/output, & relay limit switch operation are the same but the wire colors & fuse positions are not the same so only use that info I sent by PM for understanding the operation of the power windshield operation not the wire colors or fuse positions.

 

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Thanks DR,

 

You are a gentleman and a scholar..... :) !

 

I'm recovering from the 'flu at the moment (which has turned into Acute Bronchitis). As soon as I'm able, I will start tearing into this and get back to y'all.

 

Montana Mark....I'll probably go the "long route" on this one and do the DR checklist first and rip it all out and check everything under the nosecone.

 

The good news is that in over 15 years of ownership, this is the first chassis electrical issue I've had on DaRTh, so I'm not complaining at all!!

 

 

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I had problems with my windshield not responding to the up/down switch. Removed the nose cone,,everything worked but I replaced the original relays just for security. Problem turned out to be the up/down switch. A heavy spraying of Deoxit solved the problem.

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Roger C,

 

Did you have to dismantle the LH grip to remove the switch or simply spray electrical cleaner into the switch rocker itself?

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I believe I removed the left hand switch assembly which reveals the bottom side of the up/down switch--just a few screws, nothing complicated.. If memory serves me correct, there is a hole in the bottom of the switch which will accommodate the stem of a spray can of Deoixit. Spray liberally and work the switch up and down. This may be a temporary fix, depending on the wear and tear of the contacts. As far as I know, the switch itself may not be available. I have an extra LH switch assembly and will look at it this morning. If I see anything different than what I am posting now, I'll let the forum know.

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Hi Phil, I did much the same as Roger, Except I went in through every orifice around the rocker switches and allowed any excess to drain out through the bottom. It fixed mine, so it's worth a shot. I'd personally recommend protecting the fairing from the spray and crud that drains out of the switch.

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Thanks Roger and Andy, sounds like "Plan A" :) !

 

I'm feeling much better today (finally stopped coughing my lungs up!) and may start working on it this weekend. I'll go the simple switch route first and, if that doesn't work, strip down the front fairing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thank y'all for your collective wisdom :thumbsup:.

 

This morning, I decided to jump in and removed the windshield, top plastic cover and dashboard cover, I didn't go so far as to take the nose cone off completely.

I then removed the LH switch gear and then proceeded to check it out from the fuse block back with my Fluke (thank you for the help and diagram DR).

Fuses OK then on to the switch...first try, nothing past the switch, then another try and and there was current albeit for a second or so!

Sherlock here deduced that the switch was probably the issue, so both Roger C. and Andy had it right. I then soaked the LH switches with Electronic cleaner via the bottom of the switches, let it sit for a few minutes and Voila! the mechanism ran up and down like a champ :clap: !

 

While I was in there though, I cleaned out 15 years of crud, disconnected all the electrical connector plugs and sprayed both sides with electronic cleaner, I also cleaned and then lubed the windshield mechanism using Teflon spray and tomorrow I will rewrap the LH switch wiring harness, the rubber sheath of which had crumbled (typical BMW!). I'll be using the 3m self sealing tape to wrap it up.

 

All in all a worthy project as I also solved the issue of my auxiliary running lights dying on me. I took the LH tupperware off as part of the project and while I was in there I vaguely remembered there might have been an inline fuse in the PIAA wiring harness. Tada! There it were and the fuse was buggered.

 

So, life continues to be good and my almost 16 year old RT is back to 100 percent again :grin:.

 

Thanks again Gentlemen :wave:

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  • 2 months later...

I had the same problem, R1100RT 1996, after winter storage. No reaction when pushing the control.

Followed instructions from forum and Repair manual. Fuses 3 and 4 OK, Opened handle switch, measured +12V voltage there. Followed repair manual to access the adjuster motor and relays :

Remove dualseat.

Remove side mirrors.

Remove side trim panels. (2 x 18 screws)

Remove windshield. (4 screws)

Remove inner cover for trim (dashboard). (approx 16 screws)

Remove upper section of fairing. ( 4 large + 2 panel screws)

That's a lot of screws, but straight forward and quite fast.

 

One Relay (the rearmost) clicked when pressing up. The other did not, so I swapped then and the other also clicked in the rear position. Logical, the front did not click since the windshield was in the lowest position.

A little cleanup with CRC 5-56/WD-40 spray, and then I measured +12V at the adjuster motor terminals when pushing the handlebar control, and now also the adjuster motor was working fine.

 

So: I did not find the error source. Cables, contacts, relays and switches were OK. I pulled cables to detect intermittent contact problems, but found none.

My best guess, having been out in the cold (down to -18C) and not used for 5 months the motor was stuck.

Approx, 2:30 hours, and the bike was back in service with operational windscreen adjuster.

Thanks guys!!

.. / Espen

 

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