Tupperware removal

With two feet of snow outside the garage, it's time to do a complete maintenance on my 96 RT1100.

I recall some comments not too long ago about the hassle taking the Tupperware off.

I just timed myself and had both sides off in 22 minutes. I should note that a couple of the screws were missing from the shark fin area and the two at the front of the gas tank cover were tough because I had forgot to take them out before mounting the bike on the lift and the handle bars can not be moved to get straight down at them easily. I will admit that remounting takes me a bit longer.

When in Tampa Bay a few years ago, I was charged 1 hour labor to remove them when they had to take them off for a minor repair.

All part of the joy of DIY on the RT.

Now, where did I put those studded tires 🤔

Ron

R/R of the side fairings on my R1100RT about drove me insane, to the point that I sold it and bought a more repair-friendly R1200R, which has no side fairings, leaving the engine, etc. exposed. However, by buying a later model (2011) I do not anticipate having to do very many repairs.

Never had a problem once the nose fairing and tank relationship had been adjusted.

I used to dread panel removal until I got smart about it.

My LT taught me a few tricks that I now apply to my RTs... takes me less than 10 minutes to remove both panels and not much more to install.

- Mark the holes with a "L" or "S" for long or short screws

- Lube the screws with anti-sieze to prevent galling of the threads. May only have to do this once... stays put pretty well.

- Lube the mirror studs and springs so they detach/attach nicely

- Place a container on each side of the bike to contain the removed screws. lay them out grouped by size prior to reinstalling (less searching)

- If you can't remember screw location draw a map to reference

- Get a nice screw driver type torx driver for the two screws in front of the oil cooler. Don't over-tighten them so they are difficult to loosen the next time

- Get a nice screw driver type hex driver for the belly pan bolts (or change them to torx) and the two cam locks uder the seat

- Most importantly get a good cordless impact, an extension to reach into the screws inboard of the exhaust and a good torx bit ... all available at Lowes/Home Depot

Pic - https://flic.kr/p/22Qms6T

- As mentioned above adjust the tank position for the best tank screw alighnment and mark the mounting tab bolt hole. Use the screwdriver type torx driver for installing the tank screws... not a powered one.

- If you're going to ride the bike with the panels off thread the screws back into each nutplate so they don't fall off. Snug the screws.

- If the screws are black use a Sharpie (or similiar) to touch them up

Finally.... If you can justify a lift get one. It makes all of the above so much easier.

Looking for a positive?

Use the time spent removing the fairing to examine your ride.

Look for fluids, smears, discolorations, loose items, broken items, items that need unscheduled maintneance, etc etc.

For routine mileage/time interval work, I was never in a hurry.

Take it apart and look at things.

Doing oil/filter.gear/FD fluids took longer on my GT because of the belly pan compared to an RT/RS/RSL faired bike.

So?

I enjoyed doing it right.

Jumping into the next level with tank removal/adjustment for air filter etc gives you a chance to align pieces properly, the key to easy reinstall.

Best wishes.

Look at it this way all those screws mean your comfortable riding season is much long than a naked bike. Sure it would be quicker to service a bike w/o Tupperware but actually might be longer before you venture our for that first long ride.

I used a little low power/low speed hand held screw driver (ie Black & Decker, maybe $20) with the correct bit and it made short work of the tupperware. I bet you can get under 10 minutes.

Yep I can get mine off in less than 10, but putting it back (for me) is always significantly longer, because I always assemble loosely and with only hand tools.

Loose so that I can get everything to line up nicely.

Hand tools to avoid initially cross threading and secondly, cracking / distorting plastic.