Loose, rotating throttle handgrip

Have a '96 R1100R. The throttle handgrip is not locked, so that if I apply the brakes and put any kind of rotation on the brake lever, the whole assembly turns on the handlebar shaft. I can see what the problem is, but I can't figure out how to fix it without removing the entire assembly, and this will involve brake bleeding, which I want to avoid. There is a small plate mounted to the throttle assembly with a hole in it. The aluminum handlebar casting has a steel pin that goes into this hole, with a rubber grommet that goes in between the pin and the hole. The problem is the throttle assembly is not completely engaged on the steel pipe that it rides on. It needs to be engaged about 3/16" more so that the pin in the aluminum casting goes into the hole in the steel plate. I just cannot see what engages the throttle assembly. The end of the handlebar has a metal end that is firmly screwed in with an allen bolt. The throttle grip assembly slides over a steel pipe that is rubber mounted into the aluminum casting. The problem is that the rubber mounted steel pipe is not engaged enough in the aluminum casting. I can't figure out what holds the steel pipe in the aluminum casting! Can anybody shed any light into this system?

Have a '96 R1100R. The throttle handgrip is not locked, so that if I apply the brakes and put any kind of rotation on the brake lever, the whole assembly turns on the handlebar shaft. I can see what the problem is, but I can't figure out how to fix it without removing the entire assembly, and this will involve brake bleeding, which I want to avoid. There is a small plate mounted to the throttle assembly with a hole in it. The aluminum handlebar casting has a steel pin that goes into this hole, with a rubber grommet that goes in between the pin and the hole. The problem is the throttle assembly is not completely engaged on the steel pipe that it rides on. It needs to be engaged about 3/16" more so that the pin in the aluminum casting goes into the hole in the steel plate. I just cannot see what engages the throttle assembly. The end of the handlebar has a metal end that is firmly screwed in with an allen bolt. The throttle grip assembly slides over a steel pipe that is rubber mounted into the aluminum casting. The problem is that the rubber mounted steel pipe is not engaged enough in the aluminum casting. I can't figure out what holds the steel pipe in the aluminum casting! Can anybody shed any light into this system?

Afternoon stlkski

I'm not exactly sure what you are dealing with as some of your explanation is a little unclear to me.

Have to tried loosening the pinch bolt (shown in picture) then moving the entire housing to where you need it, then re-tightening the pinch bolt?

Sorry about the convoluted explanation. See picture below. If I loosen the pinchbolt, it allows me to rotate the housing on the shaft, but does not allow me to shove the entire shaft farther into the aluminum casting. Again, the pinchbolt does tighten the housing to stop the rotation of the housing, but does not allow this metal plate to get nearer the aluminum housing.

In the very center of the picture is the steel plate with the hole. Actually, it's a little fork, not a hole. You can see the rubber grommet on each side of the plate. In the left side, barely visible is a steel pin that is pressed into the aluminum casting. The ENTIRE throttle housing and the steel shaft it's mounted on are not sufficiently inserted into the aluminum casting, such that the metal plate is not engaging (not far enough towards the aluminum casting)

Afternoon stlkski

The picture will have to be hosted to work as we can't see it.

Are you saying the tube is not seating fully into the alloy casting that bolts to the upper triple tree?

Yes, correct, the heavy steel shaft seems like it's needs to be inserted about 3/16" more. I have no idea how to get the shaft farther into the casting. Is it pressed in?? It feels like it's rubber mounted.

The picture should work now.

Yes, correct, the heavy steel shaft seems like it's needs to be inserted about 3/16" more. I have no idea how to get the shaft farther into the casting. Is it pressed in?? It feels like it's rubber mounted.

 

The picture should work now.

Afternoon stlkski

OK, it finally dawned on me that you have the total isolation oilhead R-bike bars. BMW redesigned those for the RT as they had issues with them so the RT

ones are held in with a bolt from the back of the casting.

Those can be a real pain to get pushed back in as the rubber gets hard & prevents the tube from being pushed back in.

I haven't messed with one of those for years. I had one years ago on an 1100R bike that I had to pull completely apart then lubricate the rubber with glass

cleaner then beat it back in with a large rubber mallet, then I re-bent the retainer plate to hold it in tight.

Added: I thought I remembered a roll pin being added to hold those tubes in the casting (I just looked for a BMW service bulletin on this but couldn't find anything (maybe there was & I just don't have it any longer or possibly I just can't find it). Or it's possible I remember someone doing that on their own for their own bike.

Thanks dirtrider. Maybe I should try beating it back in with a rubber hammer while it's still on the bike. Shouldn't be any different than taking it all apart. It would still require a beating. Unless like you say, the rubber is so hard it needs lube. This design seems like a safety issue, as the rotating brake handle could be a problem in an emergency situation. Also, there's nothing holding the shaft in except the friction of the rubber? I suppose the likelihood of it coming completely out are slim though.... A hack would be to bend the "retainer" so it engages the pin.

i have no idea why , but i think i have one of those handlebars (newer style) in my garage .

if it's the correct side, you may have it for the cost of shipping if you like .

i've picked it up numerous times and wondered where i got it .

email me to remind , and i'll look Sunday. i'll have slept by tomorrow and forgotten .

Tri750@hotmail.com

Thanks dirtrider. Maybe I should try beating it back in with a rubber hammer while it's still on the bike. Shouldn't be any different than taking it all apart. It would still require a beating. Unless like you say, the rubber is so hard it needs lube. This design seems like a safety issue, as the rotating brake handle could be a problem in an emergency situation. Also, there's nothing holding the shaft in except the friction of the rubber? I suppose the likelihood of it coming completely out are slim though.... A hack would be to bend the "retainer" so it engages the pin.

Morning stlkski

Those ® bike bars are slightly different than the RT as BMW wanted more rubber isolation on the ® -- (lowered the bar buzz & took some of the mirror shake out of the bars but added compliancy to the steering feel).

At one time there was a company that made solid bushings to stiffen up the tube to casting attachment to take the mushiness out of the turn in. (I haven't seen those in a long time now).

You just might have to bend the retainer a bit to keep the tube in farther & keep the pin engaged.

If you beat your tube back in don't beat on the bar end weight, if you manage to move the bar end weight in it will bind the twist grip.

Tri750; thanks for the offer. Maybe if all else fails I'll take you up on it.

dirtrider: When you took apart your bars many years ago, how hard was it to pull apart? Is it just held in by friction?? I'm just trying to get an idea what I'm up against here. I gave the end weight a couple good whacks with a sledge with a board in between so as not to ding up the weight, and the shaft did not budge at all. (I don't think the bar end weight is going to deform and pinch the throttle, it's pretty damn beefy). It seems really stuck where it is. That's a good thing from the standpoint of it not coming out anymore than it already is. If it's going to remain in place forever, I'm inclined to just do the "bend the plate" hack.

Tri750; thanks for the offer. Maybe if all else fails I'll take you up on it.

 

dirtrider: When you took apart your bars many years ago, how hard was it to pull apart? Is it just held in by friction?? I'm just trying to get an idea what I'm up against here. I gave the end weight a couple good whacks with a sledge with a board in between so as not to ding up the weight, and the shaft did not budge at all. (I don't think the bar end weight is going to deform and pinch the throttle, it's pretty damn beefy). It seems really stuck where it is. That's a good thing from the standpoint of it not coming out anymore than it already is. If it's going to remain in place forever, I'm inclined to just do the "bend the plate" hack.

 

Morning stlkski

That was a long time ago so I can't remember how tight but it did pull it apart (knowing how I attack things it was probably a twist & pull motion). If yours is twisting then it is somewhat loose or it wouldn't twist.

You won't ding the end weight but you can drive the thing inwards a bit if too brutal. The problem is that you are driving against that rubber isolator (basically driving against a spring) so a good portion of your driving force is just returning as stored energy.

Personally I would try to pull it out first, then lube it with glass cleaner, THEN try twisting/ driving it back in. Maybe some heat from a hair dryer will soften it a little more & make removal easier.

You will probably have to either remove that rubber isolator where the small bolt holds it in & try a large washer or bend the retainer to put more inward pressure on the tube in the retention direction.

Just remember that what ever you do to one side such a solid washer retention or going to a non isolated RT handlebar you really should also do to the other side as having a soft-mounted compliant bar on one side & solid mounted on the other side would drive me crazy trying to ride it with vigor. Plus, if you remove the soft mounting you will start to get some mirror shaking & blurring.

Went back for in the ring for another swing. Pushed and turned and finally the shaft went in the aluminum casting and the pin got inserted into the metal plate! After this, there was a big gap between the handlebar end weight and the end of the throttle handgrip, so I loosened the clamp bolt and moved the throttle housing back about 3/16" to close the gap. All seems well. If I pull hard on the handgrip, the shaft does not pull out. So I am perplexed. Maybe the limited hammering I did loosened things up and I just needed to spend more time pushing and twisting.

Went back for in the ring for another swing. Pushed and turned and finally the shaft went in the aluminum casting and the pin got inserted into the metal plate! After this, there was a big gap between the handlebar end weight and the end of the throttle handgrip, so I loosened the clamp bolt and moved the throttle housing back about 3/16" to close the gap. All seems well. If I pull hard on the handgrip, the shaft does not pull out. So I am perplexed. Maybe the limited hammering I did loosened things up and I just needed to spend more time pushing and twisting.

Afternoon stlkski

Sounds good-- when it comes to springs or rubber, as a rule pushing & twisting trumps hammering.

Hopefully it will stay put now. The biggest problem with those rubber isolation ® bars was trying to tie the bike down in a truck or trailer with straps on the handlebar ends as that could make them pull loose.