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Side stand switch part number?


Buckster

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Does anyone know if the side stand switch for the 2006 R1200RT been superseded? Real OEM shows part number 61328535708 supersedes 61317654603. But 61328535708 does not appear to have a pigtail on it. My RT has gotten to the point of dying while riding so it is time to the replace the switch. When the engine dies, I can wiggle the side stand and it will kick back on. It had occasionally died when going from neutral to first with the side stand up. I'd just wiggle the side stand and it would start. But the dying while riding is not acceptable.

Thanks Buckster

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Hopefully this won't double post,

But the 708 and the 603 both have a pigtail, they have to.

The latest number has a pigtail 530mm long and requires you to order three small bits of hardware to fit the updated switch.

See this.

https://www.ascycles.com/BMW-Motorcycle-Parts-Fiche/R1200RT-2005-09?id=51560&catID=61&catname=61%20General%20Electrical%20System

 

Go to various switches / relays, #2. Get the switch and the three items listed below it .

Whenever you see "only on conjuntion with" that means an updated part or supersession and additional parts are needed to get it to fit correctly.

 

If your bike is a retired Authorities model, that changes things, or if some weird wiring thing has been done to your bike it may not be the switch but it's possible your switch is cracked .

Edited by Tri750
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Tri750,

 

I believe some bike have switches without pigtails (S1000s, for example). The main harness has a lead that plugs directly into the switch. 61328535708 may be the S1000 part.

 

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Does anyone know if the side stand switch for the 2006 R1200RT been superseded? Real OEM shows part number 61328535708 supersedes 61317654603. But 61328535708 does not appear to have a pigtail on it. My RT has gotten to the point of dying while riding so it is time to the replace the switch. When the engine dies, I can wiggle the side stand and it will kick back on. It had occasionally died when going from neutral to first with the side stand up. I'd just wiggle the side stand and it would start. But the dying while riding is not acceptable.

Thanks Buckster

 

Morning Buckster

 

Before installing a new side stand switch make darn sure that your side stand bushings are not worn & allowing the side stand to move around too much.

 

A very wobbly side stand at the bushing area can quickly trash a new side stand switch.

 

My parts book still only shows the 61317654603 with pig tail for the hexhead bikes but I suppose the 61328535708 could be the replacement as that switch is used on later bikes, some 800 bikes & other later BMW bikes (the 61328535708 doesn't have a pigtail on the switch as it has a direct plug interface).

 

I have a 61328535708 hanging on the wall in my shop & it doesn't have a pig tail on it. (not from a hexhead though). It does look the same as the older 61317654603 switch only with no pig tail.

 

I have seen a parts picture of the 61328535708 switch with a small interface pigtail pictured next to it but there was no part number given (that I can remember anyhow) & I can't remember where I even saw that picture.

 

It's possible that the new 61328535708 comes with the (plug-in) pig tail in the package & if it doesn't then you will probably have to have your BMW dealer try to find that interface pig tail.

 

If I find that parts picture of the 61328535708 with the pig tail shown I will try to follow it up & find a part number.

Edited by dirtrider
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Here is the 708 and no pigtail !

It's possible it's in the parts section under wiring.

I'll check in a few.

http://www.rubbersideup.com/2016-bmw-g650gs-s1000rr-kickstand-side-stand-switch-61328535708

 

Afternoon Tri

 

First, see if you can find a hexhead BMW book listing on that 61328535708 switch (BMW, not a non BMW site).

 

I have a fairly late parts book & it doesn't list it for the hexhead.

 

You won't find a pig tail if the book doesn't list that switch for the hexhead. (I don't show anything under wiring in my book)

 

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i have a feeling the 708 is for the WC models.

Both A&S BMW and Max BMW only list the 61 31 7 654 603

as the switch .

The realoem. does as well unless you click on it then it mentions use or SS on the new models .

I asked my dealer parts guy to verify (answer this eve) but i feel the Easter wild goose chase is over .

 

I probably should have looked there first, but ....

 

Edited by Tri750
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Evening ___

 

I think I found that side stand switch adapter cable that I mentioned earlier.

 

 

It is 61128523364 ADAPTER LEAD but it goes with the early hexhead 1200GS 61328526970 supersede side stand switch (original OEM switch had a pig tail).

 

I still can't find any reference to the 61128523364 being used in conjunction with the 61328535708 switch on the hexhead 1200RT. (but BMW doesn't always get it right in the parts manuals)

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ok the harness for the 708 is the 6112 8523 365

but it does not fit the hexhead as we figured out.

 

my bmw parts source has both in stock and it does fit the S1000RR the 310, the G650...

 

So as D.R. suggested check the stand first to make sure it's not all “wallowed” out . very common if it is .

if not, the correct PN. is the 603 with the three extra bits .

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Tri750 and DR, thanks for the information and interpretation of the BMW part numbers. I will check out the side stand wear to see if I need any additional parts while I'm in there. Thanks again. Buckster

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Tri750 and DR, thanks for the information and interpretation of the BMW part numbers. I will check out the side stand wear to see if I need any additional parts while I'm in there. Thanks again. Buckster

 

Morning Buckster

 

You shouldn't need the 3 extra bits mentioned above as your bike should already have the washer & clip. (at least I haven't ever seen one without them as they are needed to hold the switch on).

 

Look to see if your bike already has the clip & washer (it is easy to see).

 

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DR, yes I have the clip and washer in place and there is sufficient play in the side stand to justify replacing the collar bushings. The pivot bolt on my 2006 is slightly different from the parts fiche. Mine has a separate bolt with a bushing. The pivot bolt on the fiche seems to be both pieces in one. I will buy the collar bushings and the pivot bolt. The fiche pivot bolt has thread lock on it. Can you tell me the proper torque for it?

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DR, yes I have the clip and washer in place and there is sufficient play in the side stand to justify replacing the collar bushings. The pivot bolt on my 2006 is slightly different from the parts fiche. Mine has a separate bolt with a bushing. The pivot bolt on the fiche seems to be both pieces in one. I will buy the collar bushings and the pivot bolt. The fiche pivot bolt has thread lock on it. Can you tell me the proper torque for it?

 

Morning Buckster

 

I like the bolt & bushing better as those allow a thin washer with a 45° chamfer center hole to be added between the bolt head & the bushing. Then the pivot bushing shortened slightly (just enough) to allow enough side stand ear pinch to tighten on the frame ear. That then allows the pivot bolt to pull the side stand ears tighter together & take most of the side wobble out of the side stand to frame ear (I use this on both of my hexheads to tighten the side stand & remove play to frame ear.

 

What happens on the hexhead is that over time & usage the ears on the side stand at the pivot start to spread or open up (spread apart) so they don't pinch tight to the frame ear. (kind of a very poor design on BMW's part).

 

Kind of difficult to explain the washer addition as it has to be done j-u-s-t r-i-g-h-t with just the right thickness washer so it pinches the side stand ears tighter together BUT still allows the pivot bolt to tighten enough to leave enough pin sticking out the other side for the side stand switch to mount & freely operate on. The bushing also needs to shortened enough to allow that pinch to take place (that bushing is a hard little devil & not easy to shorten)-- It usually takes some trial fittings to get the bushing length just right.

 

Below is picture of the older bolt & separate bushing design.

 

Torque on the pivot bolt is 42nm & I always add new lock-tite to the pivot bolt threads. (careful to not get any loc-tite on the side stand plastic switch, also lube pivot points before re-assembly.

 

 

 

Am7EO3o.jpg

 

Edited by dirtrider
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D.R., I see your point of using a washer to pinch the sidestand ears together along with the slightly shortened pivot bushing. I cancelled the order of side support screw (BMW speak for the one piece pivot bolt and bushing) and will use the original bolt and bushing along with the new collar bushings. The only question that I have is your reference to a 45* chamfer on the added washer. Looking at the diagram picture, it appears that the underside of the pivot bolt head is angled. Is this the reason for the 45* chamfer? Mine (2006 R1200RT) is squared off.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t313/Hbuckster/IMG_2577.jpg[/img]]2006 R1200RT sidestand pivot bolt and bushing with 2 collar bushings

So I believe that I need a washer that will fit the bolt shank of the pivot bolt that extends past the head of the pivot bolt over the lower ear of the sidestand.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t313/Hbuckster/IMG_2585.jpg[/img]]sidestand bushing excess length

Since the pivot bolt bushing extends past the surface of the lower sidestand ear when it is seated against the inside of the upper ear, I believe this is the part of the bushing that you suggest to trim down to pinch the ears together. But I can see that the pinch should not bind on the collar bushings when the bolt is torqued. I am going to wait until the new collar bushings are installed then test fitment of the ears using a vise to squeeze the ears together in very small increments until the fit is right. Then I'll trim the pivot bolt bushing to level with the lower ear.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t313/Hbuckster/IMG_2586.jpg[/img]]sidestand pivot bolt, washer and bushing expanded

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t313/Hbuckster/IMG_2587.jpg[/img]]sidestand pivot bolt, washer and bushing assembled

Does that sound like a plan? Thanks Buckster

 

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So I believe that I need a washer that will fit the bolt shank of the pivot bolt that extends past the head of the pivot bolt over the lower ear of the sidestand.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t313/Hbuckster/IMG_2585.jpg[/img]]sidestand bushing excess length

Since the pivot bolt bushing extends past the surface of the lower sidestand ear when it is seated against the inside of the upper ear, I believe this is the part of the bushing that you suggest to trim down to pinch the ears together. But I can see that the pinch should not bind on the collar bushings when the bolt is torqued. I am going to wait until the new collar bushings are installed then test fitment of the ears using a vise to squeeze the ears together in very small increments until the fit is right. Then I'll trim the pivot bolt bushing to level with the lower ear.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t313/Hbuckster/IMG_2587.jpg[/img]]sidestand pivot bolt, washer and bushing assembledhttp://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t313/Hbuckster/IMG_2586.jpg[/img]]sidestand pivot bolt, washer and bushing expanded

Does that sound like a plan? Thanks Buckster

Edited by Buckster
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Since the pivot bolt bushing extends past the surface of the lower sidestand ear when it is seated against the inside of the upper ear, I believe this is the part of the bushing that you suggest to trim down to pinch the ears together. But I can see that the pinch should not bind on the collar bushings when the bolt is torqued. I am going to wait until the new collar bushings are installed then test fitment of the ears using a vise to squeeze the ears together in very small increments until the fit is right. Then I'll trim the pivot bolt bushing to level with the lower ear.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t313/Hbuckster/IMG_2586.jpg[/img]]sidestand pivot bolt, washer and bushing expanded

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t313/Hbuckster/IMG_2587.jpg[/img]]sidestand pivot bolt, washer and bushing assembled

Does that sound like a plan? Thanks Buckster

Edited by Buckster
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Morning Buckster

 

D.R., I see your point of using a washer to pinch the sidestand ears together along with the slightly shortened pivot bushing. I cancelled the order of side support screw (BMW speak for the one piece pivot bolt and bushing) and will use the original bolt and bushing along with the new collar bushings. The only question that I have is your reference to a 45* chamfer on the added washer. Looking at the diagram picture, it appears that the underside of the pivot bolt head is angled. Is this the reason for the 45* chamfer? Mine (2006 R1200RT) is squared off. 2006 R1200RT sidestand pivot bolt and bushing with 2 collar bushings.-- Yes, there appears to be a few different iterations on that pivot bolt. With your bike having a flat cap bolt you don't need the chamfer as the chamfer was just to get more bolt depth on tapered seat bolt after adding a washer. You will just need to use a thin enough washer to allow enough stud extension for the switch to work without binding.

 

So I believe that I need a washer that will fit the bolt shank of the pivot bolt that extends past the head of the pivot bolt over the lower ear of the sidestand. -- Yes, that is exactly the idea.

Since the pivot bolt bushing extends past the surface of the lower sidestand ear when it is seated against the inside of the upper ear, I believe this is the part of the bushing that you suggest to trim down to pinch the ears together.--Exactly, sounds like you have it figured out.

 

But I can see that the pinch should not bind on the collar bushings when the bolt is torqued. . Just needs to be tight enough pinch to take the stand wobble out when bolt is torqued. When you feel the stand start to drag slightly when you move it up & down you are there as it will loosen slightly when used for a while.

 

I am going to wait until the new collar bushings are installed then test fitment of the ears using a vise to squeeze the ears together in very small increments until the fit is right. Then I'll trim the pivot bolt bushing to level with the lower ear-- I tried it this way on the first one that I did but it didn't pinch very predictably plus if you get it pinched to be snug then you will have a difficult time sliding it on over the frame ear plastic bushings (it will catch) so now I just keep trimming a little off the bushing then assembling & tightening the bolt until I get a good tight stand fit (this keeps the stand pocket taper to allow easy install but will pinch down tight when pivot bolt is tightened) . The only problem is in trimming the bushing square as it is not easy to keep the end square (I have a lathe so had no problem). If you have a power drill with a large enough chuck you can chuck the bushing in that then spin against a spinning grinding wheel.

 

Does that sound like a plan?-- Yes.

 

Just make sure that the bolt screws in far enough that there is enough real-estate on the stud for the side stand switch to operate smoothly without binding (you might need a thin washer to assure this). Otherwise it sounds like you have a good plan.

 

I use a pair of internal snap ring pliers (duck bill type) to allow easy removal of the installed center bushing as those make it easy to grab the inside of the steel bushing & pull it out (with new plastic pivot bushings you will find that steel bushing more difficult to remove). I see that your bushing has a hole in it to get a removal tool into so don't grind on that side or you could grind right to that hole (not a big deal but hitting that hole will make keeping the bushing square more difficult)

 

Added: can I steal your pictures of the stand bolt & bushing for my files as they are way better than what I currently have?

 

 

Edited by dirtrider
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Please feel free to use the photos. Thanks for all you do!

Also just a note of difference between models, You mentioned that the frame ear bushings are plastic. The ones I removed are metal, seem to coated steel. They have a copper color but are magnetic. When I get the new ones, I'll advise.

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D.R., your advice worked perfect. After several small cuts on the end of the pivot bushing and torqueing to 42nm, I have no play on the side stand but pivots without resistance. Thanks again! Buckster

Advice to early R1200RT owners to check the play on the side stand before the switch is damaged. Put the bike on the center stand then swing the side stand down. Pull up on the side stand. If you have more than 1/4" play at the foot, you are likely putting excessive pressure and wear on the switch internals which will lead to switch failure.

 

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