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CANsmart question and problem


Frustrated_Diver

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Frustrated_Diver

Does anybody know the color of the wires in the 2015 RT's 49 liter top box's cable for the auxiliary LED brake light? There are 3 circuits, light, latch lock, and optional brake light. The Denali CANsmart controller has a pigtail for the Denali brake light bar but i'm told it will also work with the BMW light.

 

Has anybody had any problems with the Denali DR1 lights and the CANsmart controller? Memorial Day i installed the DR1 and DM lights and the controller using the supplied cables. Before i put the plastic back on, all checked out. The next time i powered up the bike, the DR1s just momentarily flashed but would not come on. The DMs work as specified. Nothing of all the conceivable connection combinations i've tried has changed the issue. If it is the lights, both have the same issue. If it is the controller, the problem follows the lights.

 

Rick

 

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  • 2 months later...
Andrew_in_HTX

Rick--

 

New to the forum (Hi!).

 

I spent a portion of yesterday installing a Cansmart controller and a DR1 2.0 light pod (on the primary light circuit) on my 2016 R1200R and have had exactly the same result as yours--when I hold down the turn-signal cancellation for three seconds as directed, I get just a single split-second flash from the DR1.

 

I sent a message to Denali USA, but I don't anticipate a response before the weekend's over and it's back to real life. Did you ever come up with a resolution? Any insight would be a help.

 

Thanks much!

 

-Andrew

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Frustrated_Diver

Andrew_In_HTX,

 

The saga continues. Twisted Throttle replaced the lights. One of the new ones works okay but the other one strobes like its first life was in a disco. So, i have a new CANsmart on the way per the thinking at Twisted Throttle. It was to be at my place on Saturday however FedEx screwed up and put it on the wrong truck (and lied by saying i was not home) so i will have to wait until Tuesday. However, i don't think the issue is the controller since the problem follows the light. As the nightly news used to say – stay tuned for late breaking information.

 

Rick

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Andrew_in_HTX

argh, continuing saga indeed! thanks for the update. I bought the equipment through Revzilla, so at least they're pretty easy in terms of returns + exchanges.

 

The only thing I could think of in terms of my install is that I connected the controller to the battery before connecting the light. Thinking I might try disconnecting everything and then re-connecting all in the instructed sequence (I did the battery first because it was the larger pain-in-the-neck.) My thought process is that perhaps the CANsmart was confused by getting connected to current without having any peripheral electrics already attached. *shrugs*

 

I will stay tuned (and keep you posted as well!)

 

-A

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Andrew_In_HTX,

 

The saga continues. Twisted Throttle replaced the lights. One of the new ones works okay but the other one strobes like its first life was in a disco. So, i have a new CANsmart on the way per the thinking at Twisted Throttle. It was to be at my place on Saturday however FedEx screwed up and put it on the wrong truck (and lied by saying i was not home) so i will have to wait until Tuesday. However, i don't think the issue is the controller since the problem follows the light. As the nightly news used to say – stay tuned for late breaking information.

 

Rick

 

Rick are the replacements DR1s or DR1 2.0? Are you using both 25A circuits or trying to tie both lights into one 25A circuit? Are you using them as DRLs as well as driving lights?

 

My DR1s are full bright on high beam and about 50% as DRLs, but I had to use both of the 25A circuits - one for the left and one for the right. And I had to use the software, initially to configure my DR1 light settings. I have the EZCan and a 2016 R12RS for reference.

 

 

164935601.jpg

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Frustrated_Diver

Limecreek,

 

The install i'm doing is totally “stock” as i bought the DENALI complete CANsmart kit (less the horn and auxiliary brake light). The DR1 2.0 lights are under the turn signals and the DM 1.0 lights are mounted on the fender. The supplied cables come with one connector for the CANsmart and split into two connectors, one for each light, one cable for the DR1s and the other one for the DMs (2 cables, 6 connectors -- hope that makes sense). The horn had been purchased earlier and was reconnected to the controller instead of a relay using the supplied cable. Instead of the DENALI brake light, i tapped into the circuit in my 49L top case.

 

The CANsmart's firmware was upgraded via the PC app after the DR1s did not work correctly initially. However, that did not change anything. Everything else, except the one DR1, is working as expected although I don't have the DR1s installed at the moment. The DMs change intensity with the toggling of the high beans, they strobe when the horn is blown, and the brake flashes upon activation.

 

Rick

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If you have the DR1 2.0 you must have the 3 wire light. Mine are the 2 wire light and I use the EZCAN to adjust intensity by way of the software set up initially and by using the wonder wheel to adjust the intensity level when they are in Daytime Running light mode.

 

Have you tried connecting them using the two wire configuration?

 

And, at least with the 2 wire DR1s, I could not set up light intensity to < 50% or they would flicker. Do you know if you have the daytime setting at 100% via the software config? (Check this one first - should be set at 100% for daytime and >50% for DRL - at least this is where I have mine set up)

Edited by Limecreek
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Frustrated_Diver

New flash -- the DR1s are faulty and a new batch is being whipped up as I type this. Apparently a change was made to the electronics and now they are having compatibility issues with some CANsmart controllers. Twisted Throttle offered me two options. (Thanks TT) Option 1 was to upgrade to the bigger DR4 for no extra cost. Or, wait for the fixed DR1s. Since my bike is an RT, I have opted for the second option. Heck, I've waited this long, a couple more weeks won't make all that much difference. A temporary fix is to, using the PC app, switch the CANsmart circuit 1 to the two wire setting.

 

A correction to my previous post -- the DMs are version 2.0. Dumb keyboard was at fault and that's my story and i'm sticking to it. :)

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