Af-xied ex ???

Morning all

Last year I installed the Af-xied controller on my 03 1150rt to help with surge and engine pinging On a setting of 7 it was as if I had a new bike. The trade off was my fuel milage went from 42 mpg to 38. A trade i was happy to make. Lately I noticed the surge starting to return and detonation under acceleration . My fuel milage increased to 42 mpg. I turned up the mixture to a setting of 10 which should have sucked up much more fuel but my milage increased to almost 43 mpg. The unit appears to be working by the light indications but obviously it is'nt. I cleaned up the connector at the controller pig tail and am currently running thru a tank of gas to check performance. Seems like surge decreased but kinda hard to really tell. Pinging very prevalent under hard acceleration. Use 91 octane or higher as usual . Also notice it is a little harder starting bike when cold. Fires right up when hot . Runs strong.

IT has 103,000 miles on it. Original O2 sensor.

Questions. Any possibility it could be something beside the af-xied, and should I remove it and reconnect the original O2 wires till I sort it out ? Next step is to contact the af-xied company, but wanted to pick your brains first.

As always, thanks in advance.

Morning all

 

Last year I installed the Af-xied controller on my 03 1150rt to help with surge and engine pinging On a setting of 7 it was as if I had a new bike. The trade off was my fuel milage went from 42 mpg to 38. A trade i was happy to make. Lately I noticed the surge starting to return and detonation under acceleration . My fuel milage increased to 42 mpg. I turned up the mixture to a setting of 10 which should have sucked up much more fuel but my milage increased to almost 43 mpg. The unit appears to be working by the light indications but obviously it is'nt. I cleaned up the connector at the controller pig tail and am currently running thru a tank of gas to check performance. Seems like surge decreased but kinda hard to really tell. Pinging very prevalent under hard acceleration. Use 91 octane or higher as usual . Also notice it is a little harder starting bike when cold. Fires right up when hot . Runs strong.

IT has 103,000 miles on it. Original O2 sensor.

Questions. Any possibility it could be something beside the af-xied, and should I remove it and reconnect the original O2 wires till I sort it out ? Next step is to contact the af-xied company, but wanted to pick your brains first.

 

As always, thanks in advance.

Morning joeb

With 103,000 miles on the original o2 sensor that might be worthy of replacing just to have a good base to build off of. Old o2 sensors can still work (sort of) but can become lazy & slow to respond.

If you have access to a GS-911 then you might be able to catch a lazy o2 sensor.

If it were my bike I would definitely start with a new o2 sensor just to eliminate that. (a universal o2 sensor will also work just fine, just don't solder the wire connections)

If you have a dual spark engine then definitely make sure that the o2 sensor pig tail wire is not running along, near, or tie strapped near R/H lower spark plug wire (it could even effect single spark engines if someone has routed the o2 pig tail close to the R/H spark plug wire)

DR is right, it could be a lazy O2. I had your symptoms when my intank hoses started leaking but before they ruptured. During the “it's pinging, isn't that interesting” phase I ignored it. Later when the hoses ruptured on the highway I did the “coast to the side of the highway” routine with a tow home.

I would measure the return flow of fuel to the tank. It should be 2 liters in a minute.

You probably have errors in the Motronic log which a GS-911 will pick up.

Morning joeb

Added: if your bike is a twin spark bike & you haven't already done so you might also consider adding a power relay to power the upper stick coils directly from the battery (BMW did this on the later 2004 1150 bikes). On some twin spark bikes it can make a notable difference in runability as well as cold weather starting.

Bike is the single plug type. Any recommends for the O2. Hope to keep the same type connector so I can plug in the

af-xied. Any easy way to determine the return hose on fuel system ?. . I don't think it's fuel flow as the bike runs REAL strong ans is responsive

As far as the gs911, if I replace the O2 sensor will the 911 be able to tell me anything else of importance. The reason I ask is I don't have access to one and would have to go to a dealer and pay to have them run a diagnostic. Also would a GS 911 read correctly with the af-xied plugged in ?

Why not solder ?

Thanks again.

Evening joeb

Bike is the single plug type. Any recommends for the O2. Hope to keep the same type connector so I can plug in the

af-xied.-- If you want to retain the same plug then you will need an OEM or OEM equivalent o2 sensor. OEM is very expensive but I'm pretty sure an OEM equivalent can be found with enough searching & looking. Personally I just cut the connector off the original o2 sensor, plus some extra pig tail length, then splice on a universal o2 sensor. (MUCH cheaper)

Any easy way to determine the return hose on fuel system ?. . I don't think it's fuel flow as the bike runs REAL strong and is responsive-- IF the hoses are routed correctly & aren't crossed then the upper hose is the return hose. Just unplug the fuel return hose quick disconnect then use something (not sharp or rough) to hold the little check valve open in the quick disconnect on the return hose coming form the rear. Then point into a container & run the fuel pump (or run the engine). Running the engine is risking a fire so I usually just jump the pump at the fuel pump relay. If your bike will run out to over 100 mph with power then it probably has plenty of fuel flow at enough pressure (this is usually how I preliminarily test them). If they won't run out to over 100+ easily & still have power left THEN I test the fuel return flow.

As far as the gs911, if I replace the O2 sensor will the 911 be able to tell me anything else of importance. The reason I ask is I don't have access to one and would have to go to a dealer and pay to have them run a diagnostic. Also would a GS 911 read correctly with the af-xied plugged in ?

--Yes, it will still read correctly with af-xied plugged in but you really need to know what to look for & how to understand the data produced.

Why not solder ?--The o2 sensor gets it's reference air down through the wire strands so soldering blocks that reference air & makes the o2 sensor operate incorrectly.

So.... if I get an aftermarket sensor ( beemerboneyard seems pretty reliable ) and I cut the pigtail off, is it recommended to use a crimp on connector vs. A solder connect ? Never would have thought a solder joint was the least preferred option. Thanks

P.s. bike gets up to 100 easily ( so I've been told as I would NEVER go over the speed limit , remember , I'm an old man on an old man's bike. At least that's my story )

So.... if I get an aftermarket sensor ( beemerboneyard seems pretty reliable ) and I cut the pigtail off, is it recommended to use a crimp on connector vs. A solder connect ? Never would have thought a solder joint was the least preferred option. Thanks

 

P.s. bike gets up to 100 easily ( so I've been told as I would NEVER go over the speed limit , remember , I'm an old man on an old man's bike. At least that's my story )

Hi Joeb, Solder joints are often the LEAST preferred option. They are often performed poorly performed and result in (to mention a few)

cold joints (insufficient heat to allow the solder to wick along the conductors and form correctly),

disturbed joints (where the joint is moved at the critical point in the cooling phase).

Insufficient solder so joint lacks strength.

Too much solder resulting in the stiffening of conductors way beyond the joint. This is a problem because that wire is now vulnerable to fracture.

Overheating of wire causing insulation to fail and generating voids which can corrode at a later date

The list goes on too.

That's why in most industries, crimping is the preferred choice of connectivity in flexible assemblies.

So.... if I get an aftermarket sensor ( beemerboneyard seems pretty reliable ) and I cut the pigtail off, is it recommended to use a crimp on connector vs. A solder connect ? Never would have thought a solder joint was the least preferred option. Thanks

 

P.s. bike gets up to 100 easily ( so I've been told as I would NEVER go over the speed limit , remember , I'm an old man on an old man's bike. At least that's my story )

Morning joeb

Some universal o2 sensors come with special box like connectors. I'm not a big fan of those (they do work OK) but are bulky & to me personally look unprofessional.

Some use standard crimp-on butt connectors & they also work but again are pretty crude. I guess if I was personally going to use a butt connector it would at least be the special high quality heat set ones designed for properly repairing ABS wheel sensor pig tails.

My favorite & about all I use for universal o2 sensor installation are splice clips & heat shrink.

Then there's always the choice of finding a discount OEM O2. $89 at euromotoelectrics. If it lasts 100,000 miles, that translates to $0.00089 per mile.

Joeb,

Beemer Boneyard most certainly is "very reliable".

So is EuroMotoElectrics. Lori there knows her stuff and is very helpful. EME website

Great stuff guys, thanks. I'm awaiting a Bosch o2 sensor from Beemerbone yard as I write. New, ,with tax and shipping I thing it was around $87. They did have used ones, but the one I'm replacing is used ( about 103000 miles used ) so it didn't make sense to save a few dollars for am unknown product.