Stubborn Bolt Removal Help

In the midst of installing a set of Wunderlich engine bars on my 2015 R1200RT LC, and the first item that gets removed is the front engine bolt, a 10mm X1.5DP X 20MM bolt with a Torx head.

While I used a commercial heat gun to heat the bolt to ease removal, I am coming up empty and even buggered the Torx head a little. Luckily, the next larger torx still fits in nicely and bites pretty well. I am taking my time, and I have even tried using a couple different sets of vice grips to ease out this bugger of a bolt, but no joy. I am a little afraid that I may have to end up drilling and tapping out this bolt, so I thought I'd throw it out to the group to see if anyone has had this problem themselves, or has any good ideas as to how to solve my dilemma. I am thinking of picking up a manual impact driver to solve this problem, in conjunction with heating the bolt.

Any ideas??

Thanks in advance for any help.

Best,

Dave R.

Dave - not sure which bolt you are referring to, but if you have access to a butane torch, I would use something like the Blazer to heat things up as well as the impact driver - I suspect between the two you can get it out. Did you try to remove the corresponding bolt on the other side? Checking to see if there is some type of loctite used on the installation.

https://www.amazon.com/Blazer-GT8000-Shot-Butane-Torch/dp/B07BMYWWJ2

Good luck!

In the midst of installing a set of Wunderlich engine bars on my 2015 R1200RT LC, and the first item that gets removed is the front engine bolt, a 10mm X1.5DP X 20MM bolt with a Torx head.

While I used a commercial heat gun to heat the bolt to ease removal, I am coming up empty and even buggered the Torx head a little. Luckily, the next larger torx still fits in nicely and bites pretty well. I am taking my time, and I have even tried using a couple different sets of vice grips to ease out this bugger of a bolt, but no joy. I am a little afraid that I may have to end up drilling and tapping out this bolt, so I thought I'd throw it out to the group to see if anyone has had this problem themselves, or has any good ideas as to how to solve my dilemma. I am thinking of picking up a manual impact driver to solve this problem, in conjunction with heating the bolt.

 

Any ideas??

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Best,

 

Dave R.

Morning Dave

See if you can post us a picture of the EXACT bolt that you are having a problem with (knowing the exact bolt can help us help you)

As far as removing your stuck bolt?-- If the next larger torx bit fits in nicely then it sounds like you probably used one that was too small to start with.

If that bolt is 20mm long (I can't find that in my parts book) then you will probably have get the applied heat to migrate that far down the bolt as I doubt that you can heat the block around the bolt threads enough to do anything positive. Also, you never want to heat an alloy block anywhere near a gasket or seam with pliable gasket sealer in that area.

My personal choice for individual bolt heating is a small pencil type torch with a very fine pinpoint flame tip. That allows a good amount of heat to be added directly to the bolt torx socket without damaging the paint on the engine or frame around it.

Just play the heat into the torx socket of the bolt head to heat it up, then allow it to cool slightly, then re-heat again (might have to do this a few times). Then let it cool just slightly & try a proper fitting (professional mechanic quality) torx bit with a good sized ratchet handle or breaker bar.

Don't cheap out on the torx bit as a cheap torx bit can easily strip itself as well as the bolt socket it strips in.

Once you strip the torx then you are pretty well committed to welding on a washer to the stripped-out torx head, then welding a nut to the washer. As a rule that heats the bolt enough so it will come right out & the nut gives you something to get a socket on.

Heat until it turns. I have had to go through a couple of heating sessions to remove a bolt before.

First. . . . . . .thanks to all for your invaluable input:

**TO Tac1- I will be removing the corresponding bolt on the other side, as well, so that may provide some information, knowing what I know now (thanks to you guys). I'm definitely picking up the impact tool, since after multiple heatings and attempts to loosen with the breaker bar went nowhere. I probably heated the bolt with the pencil thin flame on the butane torch 4-5 times, for about a minute and a half each, let it rest and then did it again. How does that compare with your experience?

**Morning DIRTRIDER- As much as I tried to get the correct Torx socket by trying consecutively larger sockets until I got to the one that was too big (and then moved back one), I still ended up initially with an undersized Torx. Stupid me! I could kick myself, because I know better. Thanks for reminding me how to assure that I had the correct size Torx. . . . . .I do now! I estimate the length of the 10MM bolt at about 45-50MM, based on the fact that Wunderlich supplied an M10 X 55MM bolt to replace it (which allows for the thickness of the Engine bar mounting bracket). [see photos for exact bolt I am referring to, as well as the butane torch I am using. BTW, it is the bolt to the right in front].

What is your opinion of using the impact driver to assist after heating, DR?

**TO AZGMAN- Please weigh in on how much/how many heatings and for how long has been your experience in a situation like this.

Thanks again guys. U Da Best!

Dave R.

 

**Morning DIRTRIDER- As much as I tried to get the correct Torx socket by trying consecutively larger sockets until I got to the one that was too big (and then moved back one), I still ended up initially with an undersized Torx. Stupid me! I could kick myself, because I know better. Thanks for reminding me how to assure that I had the correct size Torx. . . . . .I do now! I estimate the length of the 10MM bolt at about 45-50MM, based on the fact that Wunderlich supplied an M10 X 55MM bolt to replace it (which allows for the thickness of the Engine bar mounting bracket). [see photos for exact bolt I am referring to, as well as the butane torch I am using. BTW, it is the bolt to the right in front].

 

What is your opinion of using the impact driver to assist after heating, DR?

 

**TO AZGMAN- Please weigh in on how much/how many heatings and for how long has been your experience in a situation like this.

 

Thanks again guys. U Da Best!

 

Dave R.

Afternoon Dave

You can TRY an impact driver but from my past experience those don't work that great on a loc-tited (encapsulated) bolt. If you do try to use one then take it a little easy as the BMW engine cases are fairly thin cast.

Maybe try some more heat as heat is your friend IF you can get it to migrate down the bolt far enough without the mounting area sucking the heat up before it gets to where it needs to be.

Personally I don't fiddle with them too long, if a fair amount of heat won't allow them to come loose I just cut to the chase & Tig Weld a washer on, then tack weld a nut to the washer & spin them out. No sense in wrecking a good torx bit & wasting time when I usually end up welding on it to get it loose anyhow.

A bit risky BUT, if you know the exact bolt length & you can set up & drill straight then core drilling the bolt clear through to the other end (but not any farther), then flooding the backside with penetrating oil, THEN heating can sometimes work. The risk here is drilling too deep, drilling crooked, or having the thin-walled-core-drilled bolt snap off just below the head.

Added: if you want to pour more heat to it with a larger flame then stop by a local welding supply store, or a welding shop, & ask for some heat shield putty. Then build a dam around the bolt area with the heat shield putty. That will protect the surrounding areas as you use more heat on the bolt head.

The trick is, as dirtrider has said, to get the heat down to where the locktite is in order to break it loose. I get a helper to apply heat and then I quickly try to move the bolt back and forth. If it moves, I try to back it out, if not, apply more heat.

Dave - I think the respondents have given good advise - I think, ultimately, heat to soften the loctite will be the trick - the case will act like a pretty good heat sink, so the bolt will probably need more heat than you might think - the pencil type torch will allow you to pinpoint the heat and the caution on the impact driver is good but use only after heating the bolt up. You'll probably find once you've given her a good heat blast, a breaker bar, extension and correct torx bit will probably allow you to remove the bolt - not a monster breaker bar, just long enough to give you a good feel - you have no feel with the impact driver so the value of that driver is a few solid but not brutal whacks to break the bolt loose and then to the breaker bar. Kind of depends on your preference and skill sets.

Afternoon Dirtrider-

DOes it have to be a Tig Welder, or can I use a Mig Welder. I recognize that this is all about the amount of heat that is generated, but is it possible to be careful with a mig, and still get it to work without frying everything in sight?

Rep

Afternoon Dirtrider-

 

DOes it have to be a Tig Welder, or can I use a Mig Welder. I recognize that this is all about the amount of heat that is generated, but is it possible to be careful with a mig, and still get it to work without frying everything in sight?

 

Rep

Afternoon Dave

A Mig welder will definitely work but you have to watch the weld spatter.

You will need the bolt head fairly clean (remove the coating), then find a somewhat thick washer with a center hole that will fit on the taper of that bolt head, then weld that onto the bolt.

Then find a nut that is long enough to allow tack welding to the washer but still have enough hex exposed to get a socket or wrench on.

You need to watch your welder grounding & get a good continuity ground as close the weld as possible (or tack weld a tail on the washer like a large nail before putting over the bolt head as that gets the welder ground RIGHT THERE). Do not remote ground the welder as that could possibly send welding current through bikes wire harness or modules.

In the midst of installing a set of Wunderlich engine bars on my 2015 R1200RT LC

I've been reading this thread with a sort of morbid fascination. This is the kind of situation that we all dread: finding ourselves escalating the difficulty of a solution to a simple task that went wrong. I hope you don't find this question irritating: do you really need the Wunderlich bars?

I ask because I think I recall reading that other crash bar brands have different methods for attachment. Perhaps, for example, the Ilium Works bars don't require you to remove that same bolt? Just trying to think outside the box,

Cap

Afternoon Dirtrider-

 

DOes it have to be a Tig Welder, or can I use a Mig Welder. I recognize that this is all about the amount of heat that is generated, but is it possible to be careful with a mig, and still get it to work without frying everything in sight?

 

Rep

 

 

Afternoon Dave

 

A Mig welder will definitely work but you have to watch the weld spatter.

 

You will need the bolt head fairly clean (remove the coating), then find a somewhat thick washer with a center hole that will fit on the taper of that bolt head, then weld that onto the bolt.

 

Then find a nut that is long enough to allow tack welding to the washer but still have enough hex exposed to get a socket or wrench on.

 

You need to watch your welder grounding & get a good continuity ground as close the weld as possible (or tack weld a tail on the washer like a large nail before putting over the bolt head as that gets the welder ground RIGHT THERE). Do not remote ground the welder as that could possibly send welding current through bikes wire harness or modules.

 

 

 

Afternoon Dirtrider-

But if I'm careful and keep the ground right at the weld site I should be ok as far as not frying the bike's wiring harness or modules, correct?

Afternoon Dirtrider-

 

DOes it have to be a Tig Welder, or can I use a Mig Welder. I recognize that this is all about the amount of heat that is generated, but is it possible to be careful with a mig, and still get it to work without frying everything in sight?

 

Rep

 

 

Afternoon Dave

 

A Mig welder will definitely work but you have to watch the weld spatter.

 

You will need the bolt head fairly clean (remove the coating), then find a somewhat thick washer with a center hole that will fit on the taper of that bolt head, then weld that onto the bolt.

 

Then find a nut that is long enough to allow tack welding to the washer but still have enough hex exposed to get a socket or wrench on.

 

You need to watch your welder grounding & get a good continuity ground as close the weld as possible (or tack weld a tail on the washer like a large nail before putting over the bolt head as that gets the welder ground RIGHT THERE). Do not remote ground the welder as that could possibly send welding current through bikes wire harness or modules.

 

 

 

 

Afternoon Dirtrider-

 

But if I'm careful and keep the ground right at the weld site I should be ok as far as not frying the bike's wiring harness or modules, correct?

Afternoon Dave

I can't absolutely guarantee it but I have welded on a number 1200RT electronics bikes with no problems but you absolutely don't want to ground the welder to a remote spot. Electricity is pretty lazy so it always takes the path of least resistance. (just make sure that your near-weld ground stays connected throughout the entire weld process)

If you are worried then at least disconnect the battery cables at the battery posts (both of them) as that removes some of the grounding paths & un-powers ALL of the modules.

I put Wunderlich on mine. I was afraid of the engine bolts too. I took it to the BMW dealer and asked them to break it loose and just tighten more or less hand tight. I rode it home ( 5 miles ) and went from there. They had exactly the right Torx and right experience to do it right...……..Fee = Zero.... They know I buy things from them so they were happy to help.

OK, , , , here goes:

**CAP- you only live once. . . . so, no guts, no glory. I'm sure I'll live to regret this, but Farkling is what I do. They are a really great customer of mine with my grips, and I've used their bars for years and really like them. But thanks for your (most likely) very common senseful (is that even a word?) advice. Will definitely let you know how this comes out.

**DIRTRIDER- How well I know there are no guarantees in life. I will be very deliberate, and am planning to weld a nail to the washer to hook my ground contact. BTW: please see the pic below for the relative size washer I've chosen, to see if you concur on the size as it relates to the rounded head of the bolt. It fits nicely around it and slightly binds (that's how I was able to take the photo without holding it), and it is thicker than most.

**JOHN RANALETTA- I am fully planning to have an assistant handy when I do this job and to have both large channel locks, vice grips, and a wrench the size of the new bolt head handy. Planning to only let the weld quickly set, then remove the bolt forthwith.

**SKYWAGON- Great suggestion. Only issue is that I have the bike torn down just now, and doesn't make sense to go through reassembly twice.

I went and grabbed the new MIG welder today I haven't had a chance yet to try out, and after a bit of practice in the morning I'm going to attack this problem and fix it.

Here's a pic of the positioning of the washer DR, let me know what you think. I think you recommended laying the weld into the Torx well. Does that make sense? Do you think I should also try to get a couple spot welds around the side and bottom of the washer?

And here's a pic of the nut to be spot welded to the washer. Comments?

OK, , , , here goes:

 

**CAP- you only live once. . . . so, no guts, no glory. I'm sure I'll live to regret this, but Farkling is what I do. They are a really great customer of mine with my grips, and I've used their bars for years and really like them. But thanks for your (most likely) very common senseful (is that even a word?) advice. Will definitely let you know how this comes out.

 

**DIRTRIDER- How well I know there are no guarantees in life. I will be very deliberate, and am planning to weld a nail to the washer to hook my ground contact. BTW: please see the pic below for the relative size washer I've chosen, to see if you concur on the size as it relates to the rounded head of the bolt. It fits nicely around it and slightly binds (that's how I was able to take the photo without holding it), and it is thicker than most.

 

**JOHN RANALETTA- I am fully planning to have an assistant handy when I do this job and to have both large channel locks, vice grips, and a wrench the size of the new bolt head handy. Planning to only let the weld quickly set, then remove the bolt forthwith.

 

**SKYWAGON- Great suggestion. Only issue is that I have the bike torn down just now, and doesn't make sense to go through reassembly twice.

 

I went and grabbed the new MIG welder today I haven't had a chance yet to try out, and after a bit of practice in the morning I'm going to attack this problem and fix it.

Here's a pic of the positioning of the washer DR, let me know what you think. I think you recommended laying the weld into the Torx well. Does that make sense? Do you think I should also try to get a couple spot welds around the side and bottom of the washer?

Morning Dave

That washer is just about perfect BUT, you should work on the internal hole a little (maybe chamfer it slightly as the way it is now you only have a small seam to make your weld hold across).

If you open the washer hole a little then the washer will slide on the bolt head a bit farther & give you more area for the weld to dig into. Ideally you would like to weld into V as that gives best weld integrity.

No need to weld into the torx socket as you want the weld ACROSS the seam of washer to bolt head. One reason that I use a Tig is it is precise & very precision as to where I can place the weld seam.

You also have to remove the coating on the bolt head & remove the coating on the washer & nut in the weld area (you need CLEAN METAL) . If you try to weld that nut or washer as it is now you will have a lot of spattering & the weld will be of very poor quality. Sand or file them to have clean uncoated metal at the weld joint.

If you can get one of those bolts out then maybe practice welding a washer & nut to that one first.

A brand new welder?-- This might not be the best place to try it out for first run so practice on another (similar) piece of work until you get familiar with it. A weak or bugger-like weld can cause you more issues than you have now.

Thanks DR. I had already given some thought to all of the issues you raised here just now. Mainly to practice, and to assure a clean, fresh weld site. Overall, I am going to take my time and not be in a hurry . I agree that the last thing I want is to compound the current situation. One question: by CHAMFER, do you mean to "flatten" the surface of the bolt head, or make a more "V-shaped" groove of the well where the torx bit enters the the bolt head? I'm also understanding you to mean that if I slightly enlarge the center hole of the washer, that it will settle down slightly more over the bolt head, and give more surface to complete my weld. Do I have that right? As to the Tig/Mig discussion: I have two welders. A Stick and a Mig. Just so happens this is my first opportunity to break out the mig since I got it. Oh well. . . . . .this is the kind of situation I bought it for anyway. I will be sure to practice with it enough before I go live with the bike.

Regards,

Dave R.

Morning dave

by CHAMFER, do you mean to "flatten" the surface of the bolt head, or make a more "V-shaped" groove of the well where the torx bit enters the the bolt head? --No, you want a V groove (or something more than a narrow slot) where the washer welds to the bolt head. Do not do anything with the Torx socket in the bolt head, try to keep your welding outboard of that.

I'm also understanding you to mean that if I slightly enlarge the center hole of the washer, that it will settle down slightly more over the bolt head, -- Yes, that will leave more of the bolt head sticking through the washer so you will have more bolt head surface to get your weld onto.

As to the Tig/Mig discussion: I have two welders. A Stick and a Mig. Just so happens this is my first opportunity to break out the mig since I got it--Just use a high enough setting on your Mig, when welding on that washer penetration trumps beauty. With a Mig I would probably set it higher then put a number of spot welds around the washer to bolt head alternating sides, you can even overlap the spot welds if needed. Just be sure to protect bike, plastic, & wiring from weld spatter (even a double layer of tin foil can protect if it is installed to not have slag holding pockets in it).

I usually keep my air hose handy with a blow gun on it as a flame up can usually be blown out quickly with a burst of air.

All of this advice is incredibly helpful. I am planning on incorporating all the suggestions into my approach to the problem.

Thanks again guys. Really helpful. Will report back as I go along.

Best,

Rep

In the middle of prepping to weld the washer and nut onto the troublesome bolt, I decided at 4 in the morning to give the butane torch, the breaker bar, and the correct torx socket one last try. I started with the opposite side analogous bolt (left side), thinking that with the correct torx and the micro-torch and breaker bar, there should be no reason why that bolt would not come free. Lo and behold. . . . .out she came. Emboldened, I went back to the original side with a renewed sense of just how much force was needed, and out came the second bolt!.

Now you would think that my problems with this engine bar installation had finally come to an end. . . . . . .but it was not to be.

Here's the new problem: when I inspected the two bolts I had been lucky enough to remove, I noticed something very subtle, but significant. The left side engine bolt was essentially stripped (see photo below. It is the one on the left), Wanted to figure out why, I cleaned out both threaded ports and noticed that the left bracket was not lined up properly with the threaded hole in the engine block. Obviously this had to have been done when the bike was assembled new in Germany. Interestingly, when I looked closer at the bolt, it was not really stripped, Just that the outer edges of the threads on the bolt were flattened, because they rubbed against the displaced/offset edge of the hole in the bracket. This is definitely going to have to be corrected before I install the new bolt for the engine bars, or it will happen all over again. The threaded port in the engine block looks to be just fine, so that shouldn't be a problem going forward.

So here's my dilemma: do I try to jack the engine block up to line up with the hole, or somehow bore out the one side of the bracket hole so it no longer rubs on the bolt as it's being threaded in? I am leaning toward this latter solution, but would like everyone's opinion, especially DR's.

And here's the pic of the two bolts. Remember, all I did was remove the two bolts. Go figure?

In the middle of prepping to weld the washer and nut onto the troublesome bolt, I decided at 4 in the morning to give the butane torch, the breaker bar, and the correct torx socket one last try. I started with the opposite side analogous bolt (left side), thinking that with the correct torx and the micro-torch and breaker bar, there should be no reason why that bolt would not come free. Lo and behold. . . . .out she came. Emboldened, I went back to the original side with a renewed sense of just how much force was needed, and out came the second bolt!.

 

Now you would think that my problems with this engine bar installation had finally come to an end. . . . . . .but it was not to be.

 

Here's the new problem: when I inspected the two bolts I had been lucky enough to remove, I noticed something very subtle, but significant. The left side engine bolt was essentially stripped (see photo below. It is the one on the left), Wanted to figure out why, I cleaned out both threaded ports and noticed that the left bracket was not lined up properly with the threaded hole in the engine block. Obviously this had to have been done when the bike was assembled new in Germany. Interestingly, when I looked closer at the bolt, it was not really stripped, Just that the outer edges of the threads on the bolt were flattened, because they rubbed against the displaced/offset edge of the hole in the bracket. This is definitely going to have to be corrected before I install the new bolt for the engine bars, or it will happen all over again. The threaded port in the engine block looks to be just fine, so that shouldn't be a problem going forward.

 

So here's my dilemma: do I try to jack the engine block up to line up with the hole, or somehow bore out the one side of the bracket hole so it no longer rubs on the bolt as it's being threaded in? I am leaning toward this latter solution, but would like everyone's opinion, especially DR's.

 

Morning Dave

First, glad that you got that stubborn bolt out.

As far as correcting that mis-aligned bolt hole -- For that a person probably needs to be there working on it in person.

I it was me then the first thing I would try is loosening the other bolts on that side then slightly jacking that part of the bracket up to see if the hole re-aligns. If that doesn't work then remove the other bolt or bolts then jack or pry it up enough to install the bolt in the mis-aligned hole then let the weight hang on that bolt to see if the other one will line back up with the hole.

Other things to try are--

If bike in now on center stand try placing bike on it's wheels as that can sometimes change the rear frame loading.

I guess as a last resort remove the other bolts, then pry the mis-aligned area out slightly & shim it out to allow room to slot the hole to clear the bolt without also running the cutting burr into the engine block boss or threads.

I don't think the bike was built incorrectly as that bolt probably lined up OK at original build but the way the bike is currently weighted or supported it has now changed the alignment. That bolt looks to me like it stripped on the bracket edge coming out not going in so that sort of points to a current mis-alignment due to the present bike support or frame weighting.

One last thing-- If the other side lines up now then now is the time to install that side crash bar & just lightly tighten the bolts (you can fully torque them when you install the other side). If you fool with the mis-aligned side first then you could end up with the other side not lining up correctly.

Morning DR-

First, thanks for your kind words.

After reading your last post, and upon further reflection, I am certain that you're right about the fact that the mis-alignment had to occur post manufacture. Just the bright steel look of the flattened threads alone is testament to the freshness of the cuts. This is why it helps to have input from others like yourself, who can help me see the forest through the trees. I will try your suggestions starting with installing the right side engine bars to avoid additional mis-alignment there, and wait to torque them till all the bars are installed and I am past this mis-alignment dilemma.

Thanks again for your help!

Best,

Dave R.

I installed the Wunderlich bars years ago I can't recall having any issue. Looking at your picture of the bolts I don't see any loctite, nor is it listed in Wunderlich instillation instructions. You may need to loosen bolts to remove the valve covers for inspection/adjustments.

I'm happy for you, getting that bolt out must of been a major relief Good luck with the rest of the job!

Jay

I installed the Wunderlich bars years ago I can't recall having any issue. Looking at your picture of the bolts I don't see any loctite, nor is it listed in Wunderlich instillation instructions. You may need to loosen bolts to remove the valve covers for inspection/adjustments.

 

I'm happy for you, getting that bolt out must of been a major relief Good luck with the rest of the job!

 

Jay

Thanks for your kind thoughts. Fortunately, the bolts in questions are not related to the valve covers, so no issue.

I installed the Wunderlich bars years ago I can't recall having any issue. Looking at your picture of the bolts I don't see any loctite, nor is it listed in Wunderlich instillation instructions. You may need to loosen bolts to remove the valve covers for inspection/adjustments.

 

I'm happy for you, getting that bolt out must of been a major relief Good luck with the rest of the job!

 

Jay

Fortunately, the bolts in questions are not related to the valve covers, so no issue.

Not at the moment but they will be when it comes time to pull the valve covers. Unless Wunderlich has changed their design, you have to loosen the guards to remove the valve cover. So, hopefully you'll get everything aligned perfectly and in the future the bolts can be easily removed or installed.

Fortunately, the bolts in questions are not related to the valve covers, so no issue.

 

Not at the moment but they will be when it comes time to pull the valve covers. Unless Wunderlich has changed their design, you have to loosen the guards to remove the valve cover. So, hopefully you'll get everything aligned perfectly and in the future the bolts can be easily removed or installed.

I get your point now. I misunderstood the poster's point at first. What I think you guys are saying is be careful not to use loctite on the installation of the bars in preparation for that day out into the future when you've got to loosen the engine bars, in order to get at the valve covers to do the vale adjustment. Is that correct? Are you saying that even the blue loctite shouldn't be used? If not, would you use anything else like an anti-seize compound? I did notice when I pulled out those bolts, that there was a fair amount of corrosion packed into the holes I took the bolts out of. Suggestions?

Rep

 

I get your point now. I misunderstood the poster's point at first. What I think you guys are saying is be careful not to use loctite on the installation of the bars in preparation for that day out into the future when you've got to loosen the engine bars, in order to get at the valve covers to do the vale adjustment. Is that correct? Are you saying that even the blue loctite shouldn't be used? If not, would you use anything else like an anti-seize compound? I did notice when I pulled out those bolts, that there was a fair amount of corrosion packed into the holes I took the bolts out of. Suggestions?

 

Afternoon Dave

BMW calls for Lock-Tite 243 on some of the other frame to engine attachment bolts (when re-used) but the bolts that you are working with do not specify any Lock-Tite & are not micro encapsulated bolts to begin with. Lock-Tite 243 is a medium strength Lock-Tite (real close to the blue 242.

As you noted, moisture can work it's way into those lower bolt holes & form a corrosion.

Those are important bolts so you don't want them to come loose on you during riding so you probably don't want to use anti-seize or lubricate them.

If it were my bike I would probably put a drop of blue Lock-Tite 242 on threads near the bolt head as that won't lock them form turning out in the future but blue Lock-Tite 242 makes a pretty good thread sealer to keep moisture migration out. Don't Lock-Tite the entire thread length just the last 5/8" or so on the outer end near the bolt head.

I wouldn't disagree with DR I'll just tell you what I've done. No lock tite since I didn't want to clean and apply each time I needed to remove the valve cover (I only have to loosen the bars on one side). I put more then 25,000 sMiles on without issue. I've put lock tite or Vibra tite on other bolts that didn't call for it, it's good insurance. It's your call.

Jay

TO DIRTRIDER and STRATAJ. . . . . . .

What I especially appreciate is that you guys don't just make empty suggestions. Your input is laced with specificity and real life examples. Ideas I can run with. I'm going to take your advice and use the blue 242 on the upper bolt near the head to act as a bit of insurance and as a moisture barrier. Thanks for the good ideas.

Rep

EUREKA!!!!!!

Finally got it all worked out. Took the suggestions and completed installation of the engine bars on the right side, then loosened the rear bolt behind the problematic one that needed to be re-aligned. Decided to use my scissor jack to crank the left side frame up at the point where the side stand attaches, and VOILA, the frame hole and the threaded port in the engine for the bolt came into line. Recall that the front bolt on the left side was buggered by the misalignment when I backed it out, so I had to go pick up a replacement, since Wunderlich called for re-using the OEM bolt.

Photo below showing the jack cranking up the frame to come into alignment. Just like magic. Once the front was tightened, I backed out the left rear bolt and loctited and torqued it again.

OK. . . . . . .onto the rear protection bars now.

Thanks to everyone for all your information and support.

Best,

Dave R.