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R1100RT ABS Lights


Reecehk

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Hi, ever since I had this bike (several years) if I didn't start the bike within the first few start/stop cranks the ABS lights start to flash alternately, I have to run the bike for a while, stop it, then start and usually only a few turns to start and the lights flash together (normal).

Most annoying, I have replaced the starter motor and heavy duty battery (fully charged) but still the same thing, is this normal, do I just continue to put up with it? :S

 

Thanks.

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Hi, ever since I had this bike (several years) if I didn't start the bike within the first few start/stop cranks the ABS lights start to flash alternately, I have to run the bike for a while, stop it, then start and usually only a few turns to start and the lights flash together (normal).

Most annoying, I have replaced the starter motor and heavy duty battery (fully charged) but still the same thing, is this normal, do I just continue to put up with it? :S

 

Thanks.

 

Morning Reecehk

 

With a new fully charged battery & a new starter then I wouldn't say normal, but not unheard of either.

 

If all else works good & the engine starts OK then you can install an ABS power relay triggered by the alternator so the ABS doesn't initialize until AFTER engine starting.

 

Or you can install a simple pushbutton switch in the green wire going to the ABS controller, then push that button to re-set the ABS if the flashing lights come on during engine cranking.

 

Or you can use a voltmeter then start testing the electrical & charging system to see WHY the ABS controller voltage is on the low side during engine starting. (this might take number of tests over time to pinpoint the cause of low ABS voltage at starting).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks a heap mate, when I have this off the road again I will look into that, I have plenty of 12v relays around so I'll check for the green wire and the alternator wire in the circuit diagram, Cheers.

 

BTW, what is the ABS switch on the dash for?

Edited by Reecehk
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Thanks a heap mate, when I have this off the road again I will look into that, I have plenty of 12v relays around so I'll check for the green wire and the alternator wire in the circuit diagram, Cheers.

 

BTW, what is the ABS switch on the dash for?

 

Morning Reecehk

 

Use the relay contacts to control the green ignition-on 12v circuit going to the ABS controller, then use the blue (D+) wire at alternator to operate the relay's pull-in coil.

 

On the 1100RT that dash ABS switch is about useless as all it does is shut the ABS light for a short time & it can be used to re-set the ABS if used in conjunction with shorting the ABS test terminal to ground.

 

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Ree- my R1100RT was doing that ABS alternate flash for a while too. Tested the battery, all ok. Then I cleaned up all of the battery terminal surfaces and surfaces of the wire end ring things. Really clean. ABS alternate flashing quit, all was well. Dave

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Ree- my R1100RT was doing that ABS alternate flash for a while too. Tested the battery, all ok. Then I cleaned up all of the battery terminal surfaces and surfaces of the wire end ring things. Really clean. ABS alternate flashing quit, all was well. Dave

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Thanks for that guys, I went on our (wife and I) first cruise this morning and it reacted rather queer, I cranked it over cold this morning and after the third time the bike started and the ABS lights operated normally. About 80Kms later I stopped the bike for about 5 minutes then started, only turned for a couple of rotations (half sec) and it started but the ABS lights were flashing alternately so that is weird, stopped and started again and ok.

I will have to take a closer look and check all joints, check voltages and maybe even check the sensors, maybe they are clogged/dirty.

Cheers.

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If your ABS flashing lights are switching to alternating flash immediately after starting, that is a low voltage error. The sensors don't get tested until you pull away, and if the sensors were the error, that error doesn't reset at key off, you have to perform a manual reset to clear that. Best would be if you could attach a volt meter and monitor the voltage during starts. You may have a new battery with a fault.

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Ree- That's exactly what mine was doing. I started it and lights were flashing alternating. Ran it for a couple minutes, shut it off restarted and ABS armed correctly. I rode it for a half hour, stopped for a 10 minute break, when I restarted, they flashed alternating. When I got home (2 hours away) I cleaned all of those connections at the battery and didn't have the problem again. Dave

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I will certainly have to check the wiring connections then, I have had 3 batteries since I purchased the bike and have had the problem with each, I replaced the starter motor and the engine cranks over faster than before so I don't think the battery is at fault which only leaves the connections. Dave, I only have one connection at each end of the battery, I clean these every time I change the battery, do you have more than one for positive and one for negative?

 

Reece.

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If all else works good & the engine starts OK then you can install an ABS power relay triggered by the alternator so the ABS doesn't initialize until AFTER engine starting.

 

 

Would switching it to the "not on during start" circuit work the same?

 

 

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Afternoon J. Paganel

 

I'm not aware of any "not on during start" setting so what are you referring to?

 

The best way to get "not on during start" is to add a relay or a manual push button switch.

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Afternoon J. Paganel

 

I'm not aware of any "not on during start" setting so what are you referring to?

 

The best way to get "not on during start" is to add a relay or a manual push button switch.

 

Fuse box inlay specifies four types of circuits:

 

* always hot (connected to battery)

+ hot when ignition on

& hot when ignition on and starter not pressed

# hot when ignition on and starter not pressed or ignition in park

 

It also says ABS circuit is unfused, but if I remember the schematic correctly, it's connected to "hot when ignition on".

 

So, what I was thinking is if it could be rewired to the wire that feeds fuse number 4 (turn/hazard/horn/relay 5), that would basically let it turn on after the engine is already started.

 

r11fuseb.gif

 

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Afternoon J. Paganel

 

I'm not aware of any "not on during start" setting so what are you referring to?

 

The best way to get "not on during start" is to add a relay or a manual push button switch.

 

Fuse box inlay specifies four types of circuits:

 

* always hot (connected to battery)

+ hot when ignition on

& hot when ignition on and starter not pressed

# hot when ignition on and starter not pressed or ignition in park

 

It also says ABS circuit is unfused, but if I remember the schematic correctly, it's connected to "hot when ignition on".

 

So, what I was thinking is if it could be rewired to the wire that feeds fuse number 4 (turn/hazard/horn/relay 5), that would basically let it turn on after the engine is already started.

 

 

Evening J. Paganel

 

You could try it but the ABS is wired to ignition-on (non fused) for a reason. Wiring the ABS to the same circuit that feeds the load relief relay & all it's included circuits will really tax that circuit.

 

By the time that you dig into it & access the fuse #4 circuit & then access the difficult to access ABS green wire then you might as well do it right & just add a momentary switch or a relay.

 

 

 

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I am going for the relay making it basically automatic, I only just got the bike all put together after storage for winter so I most likely leave it till next season unless it can be done without removing the tupperware.

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At some point with my R1100RT I replaced the OEM spec battery with an AGM that had a higher amp hour rating. If memory serves the OEM battery was rated at 18 or 19 AH and the AGM was rated a 22 AH. The extra capacity of that battery fully cured the low voltage fault on start up.

 

The battery was 1/2 the price of the OEM battery as well! I would add that if you don't replace the regulator to provide the higher recharge voltage requirements of the AGM, you should get an AGM compatible battery charger/tender as that will make the AGM battery last for more years

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Done that, mine is a MotoBatt MB51814 220CCA 22AH, I didn't particularly like the post holes and the supplied posts but the price was good and has 2 year warranty plus Gel as well so no spillage or top ups required.

Oh and it's a lovely yellow!!

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  • 1 month later...

Mine has to be reset with a wire from the negative terminal of the battery to the middle socket on the blue thing under the seat after every journey. The ABS then flashes as it should on starting and I hear the ABS noise as I set off. The lights stay off until half way through my commute - about fifteen minutes of stopping and starting on normal roads. However, today I used my bike to go on a journey on the motorway, little further than my commute, and the ABS lights stayed off until I pulled onto my drive. Makes me wonder if it is something to do with the battery, as I assume it charges more on a motorway run.

My plan is to firstly clean the terminals as per one of the contributors on this thread, check the brake light bulb as there has been some mention of this being a possible cause if it needs replacing, replace the blue ABS relay under the seat and maybe replace the battery.

 

 

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Mine has to be reset with a wire from the negative terminal of the battery to the middle socket on the blue thing under the seat after every journey. The ABS then flashes as it should on starting and I hear the ABS noise as I set off. The lights stay off until half way through my commute - about fifteen minutes of stopping and starting on normal roads. However, today I used my bike to go on a journey on the motorway, little further than my commute, and the ABS lights stayed off until I pulled onto my drive. Makes me wonder if it is something to do with the battery, as I assume it charges more on a motorway run.

My plan is to firstly clean the terminals as per one of the contributors on this thread, check the brake light bulb as there has been some mention of this being a possible cause if it needs replacing, replace the blue ABS relay under the seat and maybe replace the battery.

 

 

Afternoon JapaneseBob

 

If you are replying to the OP's post here then this is the place.

 

On the other hand if you are asking here about YOUR problem then you really need to start your own thread on YOUR problem as asking about your bike in this thread is hijacking the OP's thread.

 

If we start addressing your problem in this thread then the two (separate) ABS problems get intermixed so the reply's start getting off course & very confusing.

 

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Done that, mine is a MotoBatt MB51814 220CCA 22AH, I didn't particularly like the post holes and the supplied posts but the price was good and has 2 year warranty plus Gel as well so no spillage or top ups required.

Oh and it's a lovely yellow!!

 

 

Reecehk,

The MotoBatt is an AGM, not a gel. We sold those for years at the dealership I worked at as an option to the BMW battery.

We had great success with them and I still use them.

We did find that using internal star washers under the four supplied bolts stopped the stainless bolts from jarring loose in some bikes.

This would cause several odd problems until we discovered the loose bolts .

(We also kept several rolls of inexpensive 2" wide vinyl tape on hand to cover the cheery yellow. Some part numbers now come in black)

 

Edited by Tri750
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