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R1100RT died after detail.


Tri750

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'99 RT, 56k Miles with the Authorities sidestand harness.

Had an experienced motorcycle detail guy come out and he did a beautiful job. Looks like new.

I cautioned him about using high pressure washer, he didn't, against blasting water at the switches, he didn't.

 

After he left, the bike started fine, ran fine for about 3-4 minutes then shuddered and died.

 

Fuel pump runs as normal, I removed all the fuses , checked with meter all fine, cranks fine, no spark it seems. Faint smell of gas.

 

I'm appalled . This doesnt happen to my bike.

 

Tried messing with sidestand , up and down, sprayed Wurth contact clean/lube in the engine kill/start switch.

 

Letting it think about it now while hopefully whatever happened dries out .

 

I should have left it dirty I guess.

 

Open to ideas please.

 

 

Edited by Tri750
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Have you ever rewired or replaced the Hall Effect Sensor HES? The bad wiring harness insulation inside the HES is a known problem with the 1100 oilheads and early 1150s. Typical failure is after washing the bike or after- during a ride in the rain.

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Wel, removed the Elf Pegs, removed plug wires , were a bit damp, blew everything out with air, put a plug in the boot, grounded on head. No spark.

Blast.

Still has the original wiring/wrap for the HES .

I put a fan up under there overnight to hopefully dry things out but I know the real "fix".

It's one of those, "I never thought it would happen to me" things .

Dirty word.

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The HES wiring as described by Michaelr11 is like a ticking time bomb. Better to fix it while the bike is at home as opposed to being off in the middle of nowhere..............

 

Keith

 

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The bike started this morning like normal . ran a few minutes then began to break up a bit then died . wouldn't restart but juddered and attempted to run .

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Tri750, it's not a hard R&R. Just get in there and pull the HES. Send it to GSAddict for a complete rewire and then put it back in the bike. You'll never have to concern your self with this again.

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Friends...you guys have saved my life more than once. Mine is a 2002 R1150R, 63000mi, second owner. Washed my bike 2 days ago...our town has crazy high water pressure. Started it 1 day ago, rode it for about 1/4mile and it stalled and will not restart. Battery charged and bike cranks fine. Nothing blocking the airbox. Has about 1gal gas in tank. Rode it all day 10 days ago no issues. Wondering if my overzealous use of the hose has made something wet as some of the others on this board suggested. Not familiar with the HES. Fuses are all fine. May not help that I live in Cleveland and our humidity has been high the past couple days.

 

Suggestion on what to do next to troubleshoot?

 

Thanks!

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After toggling the handlebar kill switch a dozen times then trying it, (with no success) I pulled a plug wire, inserted a spark plug and set it on the valve cover and cranked . no spark. after sitting overnight , the bike would start for about 30 seconds then suddenly die. another couple hours , repeat , 30 seconds running then die .

fuel pump ran, riders display normal .

And then after 2-3 days of being glared at, it may start and run like nothing ever happened for about 10 min.

THEN die.

Edited by Tri750
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Guys, it's the HES. Replace it or have it rewired.

 

 

And if it isn't, needs to be done anyways.

That eliminates it usually. (seen bad "new/rebuilt" but rare)

Best wishes.

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Thanks for the help on this. I think I found the HES in my manual and a very helpful video on YouTube. I have modest mechanical skills but I am patient. I have done work on my bike before...is this something that someone with novice to intermediate skills can do on their own?

 

I don't mind jumping in and working this first. I have other bikes to ride, good friends with trucks that can get it to a shop, and a good shop within 2miles of my house...I'm not worried about getting in over my head.

 

Thanks again...I really appreciate it.

 

 

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Thanks for the help on this. I think I found the HES in my manual and a very helpful video on YouTube. I have modest mechanical skills but I am patient. I have done work on my bike before...is this something that someone with novice to intermediate skills can do on their own?

 

I don't mind jumping in and working this first.

 

Yes, intermediate skilled person can do this. If you buy a new unit you can do this in one afternoon. If you get it rewired, the bike will be parked for about two weeks just for the out and back shipping, but you will get a superb rewire job by GSAddict and spend about 1/2 the cost of new.

 

Getting the HES off and back on requires removing the fairing panels, and then removing the right "shark fin" in order to remove the alternator belt cover. Remove the belt (good time to put in a new one) and remove the pulley. Use a 6mm or 8mm hex key in the TDC locking hole to lock the flywheel. Mark the HES position before removing so you can put it back in the same position later. Disconnect the HES wire harness plug (up on the right) and attach a string to it. Pull the harness out from the frame and under the alternator. The string will allow you to pull the connector back into place later. Remove the HES and either send it out or set it aside. The trickiest part of the whole job is threading the wire harness connector in and out, and getting the alternator belt back in place with proper tension.

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Oh I ordered mine the second day.

I ain't messing with an ebay or BB or rebuilt one . If they last almost 20 yr, I'll be dead and gone or unable to ride so who cares I say. Got a new one and a new belt coming from the mothership.

My nephew, the mechanical genius will install.

I don't do nothing I don't want to do at this point.

I'll happily pay him to do it.

 

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wheres a good place to order the HES?

Euro Motoelectrics

 

+1 on EME. Lori there is very good. Knows her stuff.

 

Rito (GSAddict) did two HES's for me after the same exact problem on my '99 R1100RT on the first unit, second time was preemptive on my R1100S. Washed my RT and got two blocks from home, waiting on a light at a big intersection when it quit. Knew immediately what happened. It's the individual wires INSIDE the sheath that short when their insulation crumbles from age and heat, see pics. The sheath always looks perfect.

 

I like Rito's work MUCH better than OEM, he uses high-temp wire and a new connector and does beautiful work, see pics. He sometimes has a refurb unit ready to go and can save you some time and money. EZPZ fix.

 

Pics of my HES, before and after GSAddict rebuild.

Edited by Lowndes
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Lowndes...thank you. I ordered the OEM but I plan to send my old one to get redone so that I have a spare in case I ever need one.

 

Thank you all for your help....just waiting on the part now.

 

 

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Back in 2008 I had to replace the HES on my 2000RT. Went to start my bike for a short ride on Saturday and it turned over but wont start.It seems to have shorted out again after a light no pressure wash the last time after I rode. In fact the bike was idling during the wash. I have driven thru low water crossings and in some pretty good rain storms over the years. What can be done to prevent this from happening in the future?

Thanks

Phil

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Back in 2008 I had to replace the HES on my 2000RT. Went to start my bike for a short ride on Saturday and it turned over but wont start.It seems to have shorted out again after a light no pressure wash the last time after I rode. In fact the bike was idling during the wash. I have driven thru low water crossings and in some pretty good rain storms over the years. What can be done to prevent this from happening in the future?

Thanks

Phil

 

Did you replace with a stock HES?

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Back in 2008 I had to replace the HES on my 2000RT. Went to start my bike for a short ride on Saturday and it turned over but wont start.It seems to have shorted out again after a light no pressure wash the last time after I rode. In fact the bike was idling during the wash. I have driven thru low water crossings and in some pretty good rain storms over the years. What can be done to prevent this from happening in the future?

Thanks

Phil

 

Hi Phil, you really ought to post this as a new thread so that Tri750's thread does not get confusing.

 

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Friends...I have it disassembled to the point where I can access the HES to remove it. I locked the flywheel at TDC using an Allen wrench. The mark is visible in the viewing hole.

 

When you say 'mark the old HES' before removing, is that simply because a reference mark on either side of the case below the HES's edges will allow me to put the new one in at more or less the same spot as the old and therefore not have to set the timing?

 

Just want to be sure I am marking it in the right spot given the intent behind doing it.

 

Thank you.

 

 

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Friends...I have it disassembled to the point where I can access the HES to remove it. I locked the flywheel at TDC using an Allen wrench. The mark is visible in the viewing hole.

 

When you say 'mark the old HES' before removing, is that simply because a reference mark on either side of the case below the HES's edges will allow me to put the new one in at more or less the same spot as the old and therefore not have to set the timing?

 

Just want to be sure I am marking it in the right spot given the intent behind doing it.

 

Thank you.

 

 

That's the idea.

 

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?46538-Oilhead-timing

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