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New BMW Owner ... 2000 R1100RT


Kirkus

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First time BMW owner here ..... been riding motorcycles for several years.

2000 R1100RT 30,000 miles (Just broken in).

 

Have 40,000 miles on my 2005 Honda VTX 1300R.

I'm creating a list of items to pick up for the Beemer, i.e. Ram Mount, Power Adapter, Tank Pad, Reflective Sheet Panels, Stainless Fairing Bolt Kit, Touch Up Paint.

 

Anyone have a link to a BMW Logo piece that I can affix to the rear mud flap below the license plate?

 

Here are a few pics ....

 

44628851665_d8a913e6ae_c.jpg

 

31670438928_ff463d8dcc_c.jpg

 

44628851205_61f81c7166_c.jpg

 

Enjoy !!

 

Kirkus

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Morning Kirkus

 

That is a pretty ride.

 

You might look/measure closely on those front (under oil cooler) lights) as I have seen more than a few lights mounted in that location contact the front fender in a very hard stop that compresses the front suspension then also hitting a road bump or road dip at the same time.

 

They don't contact hard enough to cause a handling issue but can leave a nasty looking divot in the front fender.

 

Yours's look to have a possibility in hitting but you won't know until you make that panic stop on a rough road.

 

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Great Looking bike. and the best part is it's pretty easy to work on at home. As for your BMW logo, go to Ebay and search BMW roundals . you will find what your looking for there and they stick on very well.

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I have the same fog lights mounted in the same place!!!

 

Looks great! Welcome

 

Btw I found the fairing kit on bmwmoa for 26 ish. Best deal I have seen on it.

 

Cheers

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...You might look/measure closely on those front (under oil cooler) lights) as I have seen more than a few lights mounted in that location contact the front fender in a very hard stop that compresses the front suspension then also hitting a road bump or road dip at the same time.

 

They don't contact hard enough to cause a handling issue but can leave a nasty looking divot in the front fender.

 

 

I have the same fog lights mounted in the same place!!!

 

Hi DR. I can testify to that.They sure look nice in that location. I was making progress along some great Loch-side roads in Scotland, whereupon I found myself braking really hard and at the same time there was a major 'bump' in the road. My pristine front mudguard was now marked as both lamps took a small bite out of it. That bike had done thousands of miles with the lights on prior to that. So, just a heads up to say that it does happen.

 

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Welcome.

Nice looker.

 

I think the alt belt was scheduled for 36.000 replacement.

With the age of the bike I'd think about it.

Stainless bolts are cool, but new brake lines more practical.

Same w.HES.

Best wishes.

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That's a bummer about the fog lights. Maybe we can move them further forward out of the way..

 

I went out and looked closely at my front wheel fairing, under the fog lights, and it did have scratches where it may have been hit in the past.

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If that RT was a president it would be Babe-raham Lincoln! Beauty.

 

My Piaa lights mount to the forks through the fender mount with a aluminum block and longer length bolts. D

Edited by Dave P
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Hello, and thanks for all the input.

Regarding the PIAA lights, I might just get a second tank pad and cut out two pieces and put them on the fender where the lights "might" come into contact with the fender.

 

Are the brake lines fragile on this year and model that they need to be replaced with less than 40,000 miles or is it due to material and age?

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Welcome to the board, They are not fragile but they are 18 years old replace them before they fail, you can get stainless kits for a reasonable price from Galfer and Speigler.

Edited by ltljohn
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Welcome to the board, They are not fragile but they are 18 years old replace them before they fail, you can get stainless kits for a reasonable price from Galfer and Speigler.

I won't be riding the bike until spring, maybe this will be a nice winter project (replace brake lines). I'm sure I'll be able to find a YouTube clip with demonstration. How long does it take on avg to replace the lines?

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Oooh so shiny new looking. Welcome and let the bug splatter begin!

 

Ha I save that location for my just voted stickers...I guess I'm just a civic minded nerd!

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Kirkus- Well I replaced my lines, I went slow, took my time, I think it took me an hour or two. I used a clear covered Galfer set. Figured if I'm buying SS lines, I wanted them to look like SS lines! I seem to remember lots of zip ties on, then zip ties off until I had it the way I wanted.

 

The bleeding took me longer, but I let the front and rear go dry one time each! I also put a new seal kit in the front master cylinder since I had the system opened. That was kinda finicky, but eventually I got it. Bled the MC first, then the rear then the front. There is a little bit more to it with the ABS system, but I hear our older brake systems with the non linked brakes are a lot easier to bleed.

 

I used a combo of mity vac and old fashioned lever pumping and I think I got it bled out pretty well. I think I'll do a re-bleed this next spring. Dave

Edited by Dave P
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So the previous owner gave me a CD R1100GS Service Manual is this the same for the RT?

Oil Change ???

What brand and weight seem to be preferred for the R1100RT? I'll use synthetic.

4 quarts ?

Oil filter? Brand and number?

Crush washers? What different sizes will I need for the bike and should they aluminum, copper, brass, etc.?

Do you get most of your parts from Beemerboneyard or some at the local auto parts store?

Fuses ? What type and amps should I have on hand?

I hope I'm not asking too many questions? Just want to be prepared for the 2019 riding season.

 

Kirkus

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Evening Kirkus

 

So the previous owner gave me a CD R1100GS Service Manual is this the same for the RT?-- for the most part "yes", but look closely at the CD content as it might also have the RT info (mine does)

 

Oil Change ???

What brand and weight seem to be preferred for the R1100RT? I'll use synthetic.-- brand is kind of personal thing but the weight recommendation is in your riders manual (probably 20w50 for conventional & 15w50 for synthetic.

 

4 quarts ?-- buy 4 quarts but it will take just under that (don't overfill).

 

Oil filter? Brand and number? --Depends, BMW filter is correct by-pass valve pressure, some others will work (check the "archive for R-bike maintenance part data" at top of page in this oilheads forum for alternates)

 

Crush washers? What different sizes will I need for the bike and should they aluminum, copper, brass, etc.?--Depends on the location so source the proper size & material for what you are working on.

 

Do you get most of your parts from Beemerboneyard or some at the local auto parts store? --You can from BeemerBoneyard, or from your local BMW dealer, or if you know exactly what you are looking for you can source on-line or at local auto parts store.

Fuses ? What type and amps should I have on hand? -- fuses are blade type ATO, you will need 4amp, (maybe) 7.5 amp, 10 amp, 15amp

 

 

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For normal intervals you will need crush washers for:

 

1) Crankcase Drain Plug

2) Transmission Drain and Fill plugs

3) Final Drive Drain and Fill plugs

 

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