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Blade fuses


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Thought I would warn the members here who are reading about a concern with the row of 15 A fuses on my RT. After turn signal and hazard lights rapidly flashing , then nothing , I cleaned up bulb connections and inspected bulb filaments. Relay contacts looked clean and good. All good , time to check fuse for unlikely but possible corrosion too. Pulled circuit fuse , looked good, refit , all good again with lights for a test , then no lights once more. Pulled fuse again , then noticed the 2 blades had tiny dimples in them where the tray fuse holders wire-clips grab those 2 blades. So that would be 2 dimples on each blade totaling 4 , and sure enough this was the problem because putting in a brand new fuse solved the problem. Then I thought "Better look at the other fuses in the row ". All the other fuses I pulled had similar dimples at their grab / hold points. This is a concern I thought I would pass on.

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Thought I would warn the members here who are reading about a concern with the row of 15 A fuses on my RT. After turn signal and hazard lights rapidly flashing , then nothing , I cleaned up bulb connections and inspected bulb filaments. Relay contacts looked clean and good. All good , time to check fuse for unlikely but possible corrosion too. Pulled circuit fuse , looked good, refit , all good again with lights for a test , then no lights once more. Pulled fuse again , then noticed the 2 blades had tiny dimples in them where the tray fuse holders wire-clips grab those 2 blades. So that would be 2 dimples on each blade totaling 4 , and sure enough this was the problem because putting in a brand new fuse solved the problem. Then I thought "Better look at the other fuses in the row ". All the other fuses I pulled had similar dimples at their grab / hold points. This is a concern I thought I would pass on.

 

could you post photos of the dimples please?

 

RPG

 

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RPG I'm photo-post-challenged .

The tiny dimples at contact area at the 2 blade posts were causing intermittent continuity of the circuit. 4 dimples per fuse.

I'm thinking the fuse post metal is too soft for the clip pressure applied there creating tiny holes after a long period of use ,vibrations could be a contributing factor too.

I saw no evidence of corrosion at all as the fuse array is well protected in it's plastic box away from water.

I'm wondering how many riders have had this continuity issue without even knowing it and wasting time checking circuit components and wires.

The dimples were on each and every fuse which to me was concerning.

Check your fuses.

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RPG I'm photo-post-challenged .

The tiny dimples at contact area at the 2 blade posts were causing intermittent continuity of the circuit. 4 dimples per fuse.

I'm thinking the fuse post metal is too soft for the clip pressure applied there creating tiny holes after a long period of use ,vibrations could be a contributing factor too.

I saw no evidence of corrosion at all as the fuse array is well protected in it's plastic box away from water.

I'm wondering how many riders have had this continuity issue without even knowing it and wasting time checking circuit components and wires.

The dimples were on each and every fuse which to me was concerning.

Check your fuses.

 

I understand your description so I will definitely look at mine as I continue to have issues getting my RT running reliably. :(

 

thanks,

 

RPG

 

 

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Mine is running lean.. so time to take off the Tupperware.. end of season here on Toronto.

What do you mean it is running lean. How do you know?

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Andy I've owned the 97rt only for 2 months now , 5 th owner , $3000 Cdn. , Certified with new brakes and tires and delivered to my door that way. Stock exhaust in great shape. Risers for handlebars so previous owner was tall. Gearshift set for tall so need to lower that too. Ideas ?Looks like it was always garaged , Glacier green. 96,000 on the clock with no maintenance log or history. Cosmetically very nice. Never dropped.

This replaces my 96 rt. with 130 K. on the clock which sits dead in a friend's backyard ( no one ever found the run well , cut-out prob. after 10 minutes of smooth running. ) BMW shop gave up after fitting the new HES. , then said it failed a fuel pressure test. Told me why are you bothering with this old thing , let us show you the new latest models. )

Well yes the newer rt has issues. It drives jerkily in low speed, low gears , 1 st. or 2nd, smooth above.

Pulled the tupperware last week to take a look-see. Found both idle screws at 1 turn out so backed them off to 11/4 out-ish as manual says. Plugs looked good , clean ,whitish and cleaned them , gap good too. The big surprise was the R. side throttle cable was at a very maximum adjustment. Adjuster almost out of threads. Left side adjuster 1/3 up or normal range. Both are synchronized though and lift at the same moment with throttle twist. I'm thinking improper cable routing here or a twist or something in the Bowden box.

So I put the tupperware back on and drove to BMW Toronto for an order of VERY pricey new throttle cables. Will tap out the Bowden Box and fit them soon when I pull the left panel soon to pull battery for winter and R. side obviously to remove bowden and fit cables more correctly. The bike ran the same but now has a couple of backfire pops letting off the fuel around 3500 RPM. My Idle screw adjustment to manual specs tells me it's now too lean , telling me to look for air leaks , o rings or clamps need tightening perhaps.

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I don't want to teach you how to suck eggs, but you need to start at the beginning. Do a full service - Plugs cleaned, air filter cleaned, check inlet tubes / air box for blockages (mice nest?) Clean out the BBS's and do a proper TB balance.

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