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R1200RTW - Auxiliary sockets


AndyS

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According to the manuals, the bike has 2 aux power outlets.

The first is in a crazy position - mounted on the right-hand side of the fairing.

The second is in a crazy position too! hidden underneath the rear rack.

The 3rd crazy thing is that they are only allowed to draw 10A max between them.

This is a touring motorcycle and some riders like the idea of having heated clothing for rider and pillion. This may well exceed 10A!

 

However, getting to the point. I have a Keis Heated jacket and it is an 85W jacket (so that is about 7A). Even when plugging this in causes the bike to shut power down to these sockets. It doesn't matter which socket I use, the bike just shuts the socket down.

My Son in Law on his RTW has a heated waistcoat that I believe draws about 4.5A also causes his sockets to be shut down.

 

Anyone else experience this?

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Are you using a Heat-Troller or similar to control the heat level of the garment, or just plugging it in directly at full power? A HT set at less than full hot (and I've _never_ needed to set mine at full hot) uses pulse width modulation to reduce the average current, so you'll be drawing well less than the full rated draw of the garment. And you'll have adjustability. Now, granted, I've so far only needed to use this on two days of one trip, but I had no difficulties. I've no idea what the full rated draw of my Gerbings jacket is, but as I said, I've never (including on my old 1150) needed to use full power, even in freezing temps.

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According to the manuals, the bike has 2 aux power outlets.

The first is in a crazy position - mounted on the right-hand side of the fairing.

The second is in a crazy position too! hidden underneath the rear rack.

The 3rd crazy thing is that they are only allowed to draw 10A max between them.

This is a touring motorcycle and some riders like the idea of having heated clothing for rider and pillion. This may well exceed 10A!

 

However, getting to the point. I have a Keis Heated jacket and it is an 85W jacket (so that is about 7A). Even when plugging this in causes the bike to shut power down to these sockets. It doesn't matter which socket I use, the bike just shuts the socket down.

My Son in Law on his RTW has a heated waistcoat that I believe draws about 4.5A also causes his sockets to be shut down.

 

Anyone else experience this?

 

AFternoon Andy

 

If your socket is in fact tripping at 7 amps then you have a warranty concern.

 

Most heated clothing that I have seen trip the 10amp accessory outlet electronic circuit breaker actually draws more than rated so it's very possible that your Keis Heated jacket is simply drawing more than you think.

 

As a test you might try powering your Keis Heated jacket (include the controller if you use one) through a 10 amp fuse direct from battery, it that holds then try a 7.5 amp fuse. This will tell you is it's your bike or your Keis Heated jacket causing the problem.

 

On my personal 1200 bikes I disconnect the factory (computer controlled) accessory outlet wire pig tail & run a battery direct 15 amp in-line fuse pig tail direct to the outlet. That allows using an air pump on that circuit or charging the battery through that outlet.

 

Look on the positive side-- your new 1200RT has a 10 amp accessory circuit, the early 1200RT's only had a 5 amp accessory circuit.

 

 

 

 

 

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Are you using a Heat-Troller or similar to control the heat level of the garment, or just plugging it in directly at full power? A HT set at less than full hot (and I've _never_ needed to set mine at full hot) uses pulse width modulation to reduce the average current, so you'll be drawing well less than the full rated draw of the garment. And you'll have adjustability. Now, granted, I've so far only needed to use this on two days of one trip, but I had no difficulties. I've no idea what the full rated draw of my Gerbings jacket is, but as I said, I've never (including on my old 1150) needed to use full power, even in freezing temps.

 

Afternoon Bill

 

This doesn't always work (doesn't work on my personal 1200 bikes) as the pulse modulation is basically on/off/on/off so it pulses full 12-14volts when on & 0 volts when off (at full current). So even a quick ON will trip the electronic circuit breaker.

 

I can run my heated gear (added together it draws way more than 10 amps) at part power if I use an old analog resistance type controller but not when using a newer pulse width controller.

 

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Well, I will try that DR, because on my 1150 I have a 10A fuse and it's not popping that. So I will slip a 7.5A in and see if that vaporises!

 

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I use a venture heated liner. I use the front bike power outlet with no problems . It is rated a 7 amps on high.

 

If I needed more amps I would use the outlet power to trigger a relay for a direct higher amp circuit.

 

Gary

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Hi Gary, thanks. Those sockets are going to be replaced by 2 high power sockets that will fit into the rear part of the left-hand side panel. They will be powered via a PDM60.

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  • 2 months later...
Hi Gary, thanks. Those sockets are going to be replaced by 2 high power sockets that will fit into the rear part of the left-hand side panel. They will be powered via a PDM60.

Any progress on adding the power sockets on the left-hand side panel? I would like to add one in that general location myself but am unsure of exactly where.

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Yep. They are fitted and now used every time I go out! The wife and I, plug our heated jackets into them. It is also where I charge my bike from - that way I don't need to buy a fancy BMW charger.

 

So I have just taken a fused output from the battery and connected it to 2 sockets on the left hand side cover.

6807.jpg.4090ec75210f346b19903496894cf8e2.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Are there any concerns regarding the CANBUS running a load directly off the battery? I thought I read somewhere that direct charging isn't advisable because the bus somehow detects this and gets pissy. On previous rides I ran wiring all over for various gadgets but they were not CANBUS-equipped.

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Are there any concerns regarding the CANBUS running a load directly off the battery? I thought I read somewhere that direct charging isn't advisable because the bus somehow detects this and gets pissy. On previous rides I ran wiring all over for various gadgets but they were not CANBUS-equipped.

 

Evening Pappy35

 

The CanBus & LinBus could care less about what you hook directly to the battery.

 

On the direct charging (or charging directly to the battery) that has nothing to do with the CanBus or LinBus, it is mainly a warning to not use any charging equipment directly to the battery that can or does exceed 15 volts while charging unless you disconnect the battery from the bike's electronics.

 

As long as you use a proper battery charger with proper voltage controlling then charging directly to the battery will work just fine.

 

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Great. In the past I aways fitted Fiamm horns and just took the wire input to the old horn into the new one. I presume the CANBUS would interfere with that or does the switch simply open and close the power directly to the horn?

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Horn question. On my 14 RTW I decided to add the second FIAMM horn that was on the 1150RT models. I tied into the existing horn wiring to split to the second horn... It would honk for 1 second then the circuit would should it off...so whether canbus or something else, it wont run to fiamms on existing wiring. I bought a relay wiring system but haven't gotten around to doing it yet....It's on the list of to do's.

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Btw, did you find good frame ground or wire ground all the way to battery?

 

In this instance I have created a ground 'bus' INTO the left hand subframe upper rail (under the passanger seat and adjacent to the audio unit).There is a OEM M8 torx bolt that I have removed and taken a big ground wire from my battery and run up to this point, and then a lot of the other electrical farkles I use, have also been tagged to this point.

 

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Horn question. On my 14 RTW I decided to add the second FIAMM horn that was on the 1150RT models. I tied into the existing horn wiring to split to the second horn... It would honk for 1 second then the circuit would should it off...so whether canbus or something else, it wont run to fiamms on existing wiring. I bought a relay wiring system but haven't gotten around to doing it yet....It's on the list of to do's.

 

I can confirm that when you do fit the relay (triggered by original horn wiring, powered fused wire direct from battery) it will work fine.

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Skywagon,

 

This vid shows putting the relay under the large right side faring cover.

 

 

I used one of the high amp circuits of a Hex ezCAN dondle to add a Steebel air horn and integrate with driving light flashing, but I think the $8 relay will work just fine.

 

 

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thanks...will be giving a try here in the next couple of weeks. I thought I might just go to the hornig site and buy their full kit. I was just about to order and saw this in the fine print. Doesn't work for models with alarm system if the alarm system uses the original horn! Well that is a problem for me as do have the alarm system..... Guess I'll go with plain relay.

 

Edited by Skywagon
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  • 2 weeks later...

I just installed an extra Powerlet plug above the factory one, directly connected to the battery with a 15A fuse. No fuss no muss.

Now I can connect my electric vest, battery charger or tent fan to the bike without issue.

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