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#1000749 - 11/12/17 01:27 PM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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dirtrider Offline
The Oracle
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Originally Posted by Reecehk
I just went to test the spark and turning the ignition on started the erratic clicking noise and the spark plug was firing without the motor being cranked and tacho jumping around, I haven't tried testing the fuel injector but I don't think I need to, plus this erratic behavior may damage the Motronic unit. I shall proceed to check the HES unit. Must be a bad joint or something.
Any other advice certainly welcome. smile


Morning Reecehk

"Or something"-- usually not a bad joint but much more likely the wire insulation has cracked & fallen off so moisture then allows the wiring to cross-talk.




[Linked Image]


D.R. ___
Sent from my rotory dial wall phone!
#1000769 - 11/12/17 05:25 PM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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+1 on the cross talk, I hate when she cross talks.

#1000780 - 11/12/17 10:45 PM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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Lowndes Offline
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Roswell, GA
Reecehk,

If it is the HES, you might want to have yours rewires by GSAddict. He did two of mine. You could buy a new HES for BIG $, or have Reto do it right and quick for lots less.

Word of CAUTION: he's in Canada and the best way to send it is USPS, which means you have to fill out a small "import" form at the PO. SHOW the value of your dead HES as "$0.00", because that's what it's worth at present.

See HES thread, plus lots of others here.

Last edited by Lowndes; 11/12/17 10:45 PM.

Old Fart Newbie
#1000784 - 11/12/17 11:06 PM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Lowndes]  
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Originally Posted by Lowndes
Reecehk,

If it is the HES, you might want to have yours rewires by GSAddict. He did two of mine. You could buy a new HES for BIG $, or have Reto do it right and quick for lots less.

Word of CAUTION: he's in Canada and the best way to send it is USPS, which means you have to fill out a small "import" form at the PO. SHOW the value of your dead HES as "$0.00", because that's what it's worth at present.

See HES thread, plus lots of others here.



The OP is "down under" so sending it to GSaddict might take a little time and cost a bit, but still a good idea.


*insert witty remark here*
#1000790 - 11/12/17 11:24 PM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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South Australia
Thanks, hopefully I get it apart today, I have degrees as an Electrical Mechanic and Industrial Electronics, although that was 45 years ago!!! smile I have plenty of shielded type cable, spade connectors etc here so should be no problems.
I will report findings as soon as I get it out.

#1000796 - 11/13/17 12:02 AM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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dirtrider Offline
The Oracle
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Originally Posted by Reecehk
Thanks, hopefully I get it apart today, I have degrees as an Electrical Mechanic and Industrial Electronics, although that was 45 years ago!!! smile I have plenty of shielded type cable, spade connectors etc here so should be no problems.
I will report findings as soon as I get it out.


Evening Reecehk

Don't forget the temperature rating as it gets REAL HOT in the HES harness routing area.


D.R. ___
Sent from my rotory dial wall phone!
#1000799 - 11/13/17 12:55 AM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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I missed the part about Down Under. Heck, they may have better postage rates between dominions than we do next door.

Just kidding about the dominions. But, it IS a Canadian Customs thing with the form, doesn't matter where it comes from; it's coming INTO Canada. Well, maybe they do like Aussies better than us.

Another option is to re-wire it yourself. There are several forums that tell you where to buy the hi-temp rated wire, connector, and sheathing, on-line. GSAddict might have some other options, too. Try to PM him or email him: arbcon@sunshinecoast.ca

The sensors are purportedly very reliable, it's only the cheapo wire that causes the problem.

Last edited by Lowndes; 11/13/17 01:32 AM.

Old Fart Newbie
#1000812 - 11/13/17 03:37 AM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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South Australia
Yes I will have to check, they (BMW) probably used V75 cable and should have been V105 or better. I have just taken the pulley off, have yet to inspect. I am hoping to just lift the rear of the tank to get to the plug, what is annoying is the tank is full, not looking forward to having to drain it, I had only replaced the filter 3 months ago, what a pain!!

#1000817 - 11/13/17 04:43 AM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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Reecehk - the commonly recommended cable has been oven control wiring. Lots of shielding and insulation. You shouldn't need any spade connectors. Solder to the wires on the sensor end, and de-pin the connector and solder to the pins on the connector end.

If you just look at it, you're likely to say "they're crazy, this is fine". You have to get the insulation off and then touch/work the wire. It will all fall apart in your hand like confetti.

PDF is in the top link in this post
http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthrea...amp;Words=hes&Search=true#Post276397

And this is the wire that keeps getting recommended, so you can compare to your stash
https://www.mcmaster.com/#8219k56/=5g006h

I used that formula to fix mine last spring after going round and round with a variety of random faults.


Scott
1999 R1100RT & some Hinkley Triumphs
#1000818 - 11/13/17 06:26 AM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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Reecehk Offline
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Tank has to come off!!! tongue Thanks for the info, hopefully I have something here otherwise it's a long wait from the US to AU.

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