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#1000821 - 11/13/17 11:02 AM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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Jim Moore Offline
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Jax, FL
You can siphon out quite a bit of the gas pretty easily.


Jim Moore Jax, FL '99 R1100S '02 R1150GS
#1000833 - 11/13/17 02:34 PM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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Roger C Offline
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Kernersville, NC
Draining tank. Buy a pair of hose clamps (less than $10 at Advance Auto), clamp onto the gas lines and tighten. Then, remove the lines from the engine side, release the clamps and drain into a gas can.

On the wiring shown from McMasters, there are but 4 wires. My HES (R1100RT) had 5 wires, one of which was a large shielded wire, 2 from the HES sensors and positive and negative. All 5 are connected to the plug which connects with the Motronic. Was the shielded wire reused?


'96 R1100RT, '95 K75, '14 CB1100, '08 Goldwing
Kernersville, NC
#1000834 - 11/13/17 02:45 PM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Jim Moore]  
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szurszewski Offline
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Portland, OR
Originally Posted by Jim Moore
You can siphon out quite a bit of the gas pretty easily.


Or if the bike does not have quick disconnects for the fuel lines you can just drain it from there - be sure to have a large enough container ready!


*insert witty remark here*
#1000851 - 11/13/17 04:50 PM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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avu3 Offline
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Cordelia, CA
Before I bought disconnects, I just unplugged the line and then put a bolt in it. I think an M10, but it might have been an M12. Thread it in, tighten the hose clamp - carry tank away.


Scott
1999 R1100RT & some Hinkley Triumphs
#1000861 - 11/13/17 06:19 PM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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Roger C Offline
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Kernersville, NC
Not having quick connects, it was worth the less than $10 investment for a pair of Lisle hose clamps because, on a R bike, when you take the top line loose you WILL have gas pouring out, unless you have the line clamped shut. The return line may also have some gas in it so I'd clamp it off, as well. Then once you unfasten the electrical plug you can lift the tank off .


'96 R1100RT, '95 K75, '14 CB1100, '08 Goldwing
Kernersville, NC
#1000862 - 11/13/17 06:34 PM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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SAS Offline
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Western Washington
Aircraft wire works well. It is usually Teflon coated and resists heat quite well. Can get it at just about any airport repair shop.

#1000891 - 11/14/17 02:29 AM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: SAS]  
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Reecehk Offline
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South Australia
Well that is a pain!!!! The wiring is sound, the insulation is in good condition, I set up a test with a 12v supply, 12v led setup and had some loose pins to fit the plug. All tested ok.
With the feeler gauge inserted the led went out for either pin/sensor. The only thing is that the led didn't go totally out, it still had a very slight glow with feeler gauge inserted in either sensor so I take this to be normal, I doubt both could fault in exactly the same way.
Maybe I will plug the sensor in and turn the ignition on to see if the erratic sparking occurs, certainly with the sensor out it doesn't happen.
Any ideas where to go from here? confused

#1000905 - 11/14/17 05:41 AM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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Reecehk Offline
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I plugged the sensor back in and turned the ignition on and off a number of times and all seemed normal, I installed the sensor and loosely put the pulley in and out with the ignition on, this causes a spark and a relay clicking on, does anyone know what the relay is?
This is the one that clicks on and off erratically with the spark before, doesn't seem to do it now.
If only it would show a definite fault I would have an idea where to look, but this could have stopped now with a permanent fault or in a working position, if so it is likely to show up again. It would be a pain to put it all back together, find it is still dead, and have to pull it all apart again!! frown
I checked the coil and that is ok, nothing smells burnt. There is one thing about the HES cable, as the cable goes under the plate it has a black rubbery silicone type of insulation over the cable, you can peel it back a little and see the shield foil, also this rubbery stuff is near where the cables join and split off to the sensors. When I tried to get the sensor plate off it was stuck like glue to the body and had to pry it apart carefully, took some doing.

#1000908 - 11/14/17 11:08 AM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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dirtrider Offline
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Originally Posted by Reecehk
I plugged the sensor back in and turned the ignition on and off a number of times and all seemed normal, I installed the sensor and loosely put the pulley in and out with the ignition on, this causes a spark and a relay clicking on, does anyone know what the relay is?
This is the one that clicks on and off erratically with the spark before, doesn't seem to do it now.
If only it would show a definite fault I would have an idea where to look, but this could have stopped now with a permanent fault or in a working position, if so it is likely to show up again. It would be a pain to put it all back together, find it is still dead, and have to pull it all apart again!! frown
I checked the coil and that is ok, nothing smells burnt. There is one thing about the HES cable, as the cable goes under the plate it has a black rubbery silicone type of insulation over the cable, you can peel it back a little and see the shield foil, also this rubbery stuff is near where the cables join and split off to the sensors. When I tried to get the sensor plate off it was stuck like glue to the body and had to pry it apart carefully, took some doing.


Morning Reecehk

Sounds like the fuel pump relay clicking (the Motronic controls the fuel pump relay based on 2-3 seconds at key-on then during engine cranking or engine running).

You might remove the fuel pump relay to see if your clicking goes away.

An HES wire harness with internal wire insulation degradation can cause the fuel pump relay to click on off as the cross talk in the wires makes the Motronic think that the engine is cranking.

All you have stated still sounds like an HES wire harness issue.

There is no way I would go as far into the BMW 1100 HES system as you have without re-wiring the HES just to eliminate that as the problem. Even IF it isn't the immediate problem it soon will be.

Also keep in mind that once your HES wiring dries out it can start acting normal for a while until it gets wet again & kills the engine.

The ONLY way to fully test that HES wiring is to cut the pigtail apart & go over every inch of the wiring looking for cracks in the insulation. If your 1100 bike still has the original HES I would be very/very surprised if the HES wiring doesn't have insulation breakdown (very surprised).


D.R. ___
Sent from my rotory dial wall phone!
#1000918 - 11/14/17 03:46 PM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: dirtrider]  
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James in OK Offline
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Weatherford, OK
Originally Posted by dirtrider

There is no way I would go as far into the BMW 1100 HES system as you have without re-wiring the HES just to eliminate that as the problem. Even IF it isn't the immediate problem it soon will be.

Also keep in mind that once your HES wiring dries out it can start acting normal for a while until it gets wet again & kills the engine.

The ONLY way to fully test that HES wiring is to cut the pigtail apart & go over every inch of the wiring looking for cracks in the insulation. If your 1100 bike still has the original HES I would be very/very surprised if the HES wiring doesn't have insulation breakdown (very surprised).


^^^^^^^THIS -- 100 times this.

As someone who rewired mine on my own this summer (and mine is a 2000 model), I can say that it *will* fail. I was doing mine for peace of mind, and initially thought that my harness was completely unaffected. As soon as I began moving things around, bits of insulation began to crumble. It is a ticking time bomb.

I also made the test rig with an LED to confirm both proper operation and also to set timing once assembled. Mine NEVER glowed -- it was on or off. I suspect you're getting leaked voltage in there somewhere causing the LED to glow. I'd rewire it in a heartbeat. Yes, it's a pain. But it won't be in the future. That's pretty important in the middle of a two-week trip.

Last edited by James in OK; 11/14/17 03:47 PM. Reason: fix formatting
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