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#1000923 - 11/14/17 04:29 PM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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Roger C Offline
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Roger C  Offline
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Kernersville, NC
The leaking voltage James in OK mentioned is a red flag. You can fry the Motronic if the positive and negative wires get crossed. I don't know of anyone who repairs Motronic units but used ones are available on eBay. BMW wants more than your bike is probably worth for a new Motronic unit.


'96 R1100RT, '95 K75, '14 CB1100, '08 Goldwing
Kernersville, NC
#1000930 - 11/14/17 07:49 PM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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waynerd Offline
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Westminster, Colorado
Originally Posted by Reecehk
The wiring is sound, the insulation is in good condition,

Originally Posted by Reecehk
There is one thing about the HES cable, as the cable goes under the plate it has a black rubbery silicone type of insulation over the cable, you can peel it back a little and see the shield foil, also this rubbery stuff is near where the cables join and split off to the sensors. When I tried to get the sensor plate off it was stuck like glue to the body and had to pry it apart carefully, took some doing.


Did you only inspect the outer jacket of the cable? That's kinda what it sounds like. From the myriad posts I've read on HES failures, the outer jacket always looks good, BUT the insulation on the individual wires is almost powder. If you have not opened up, or peeled back the outer insulation, then you're just foolin' yourself.

Everyone here has given you great advice with decent links to other threads where people have dealt with an issue just like yours. I encourage you to also do a quick search of prior Oilhead posts (search "HES" or "Hall Effect Sensor") and see how common this is. While there are always going to be additional fixes and repairs needed on an older bike, the plus is that there is a TON of helpful information to be gleaned from "those that have gone before you"...and that is especially true on this forum.


Wayne
"High-Town" Crew
'04 1150 RT
'84 V65 Sabre (crate baby)
#1000943 - 11/15/17 02:51 AM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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Reecehk Offline
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Reecehk  Offline
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South Australia
You were all correct, the inside of the cable was a mess of crumbling plastic. I searched through all my gear and the only 4 core shielded cable I have is low temp (80C - 175F), can't find anywhere in Australia that sells this type of cable unless I buy a 100m roll. eek
I will order a new sensor from Germany, it is $200 new but at least it will plug straight in and get me going. money

#1000947 - 11/15/17 08:56 AM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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Reecehk Offline
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Reecehk  Offline
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South Australia
I just ordered and paid for the part, I figure the quicker it's done the quicker I get it!! I will now make the timing box in readiness. smile

#1000948 - 11/15/17 09:30 AM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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AndyS Offline
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AndyS  Offline
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Somerset, Great Britain.
There should be some airfields near you. many of them will have repair workshops and will have an appropriate heatproof cable.

#1000949 - 11/15/17 09:44 AM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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Reecehk Offline
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Reecehk  Offline
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South Australia
It is ordered now, maybe I will try and get some cable later and try to fix the old one to either keep or sell it. I hope this fixes the problem!!

#1000956 - 11/15/17 01:26 PM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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Roger C Offline
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Roger C  Offline
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Kernersville, NC
Hopefully you marked the old HES and the engine block. If so, You can line up the new HES plate to your old one, mark the new and align the new to the old marks on the engine. and be on the road in short order. Or, you could spend time to make the tuning box. It doesn't look all that complicated. I have the parts but never put them together as method one works just fine--perhaps the engine is a bit peppier.


'96 R1100RT, '95 K75, '14 CB1100, '08 Goldwing
Kernersville, NC
#1000985 - 11/15/17 08:13 PM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Roger C]  
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James in OK Offline
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Weatherford, OK
Originally Posted by Roger C
Hopefully you marked the old HES and the engine block. If so, You can line up the new HES plate to your old one, mark the new and align the new to the old marks on the engine. and be on the road in short order. Or, you could spend time to make the tuning box. It doesn't look all that complicated. I have the parts but never put them together as method one works just fine--perhaps the engine is a bit peppier.

My experience was that the original setting was a little retarded in relation to the setting I got using the triggered LED. The engine does seem a bit peppier at the TDC I found using the LED setup.

All it takes is a pair of wires to hook up 12VDC to the harness (battery clips on one end and small alligator clips on the other end), then an LED with small alligator clips. From what was already posted, it sounds like Reecehk has those items or at least a way to connect them.

#1000991 - 11/15/17 11:26 PM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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Posts: 340
Lowndes Online
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Lowndes  Online
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Roswell, GA
Reecehk,

The connector on the other end of the HES wire is up inside a soft plastic boot (or bell, or weather shell) that has lost its pliability over the years. It is possible (but not easy or obvious) to remove the connector without cutting the boot. But that is the preferred way to do it. This area gets spray in wet weather, best to keep these connectors as dry as possible. I always give connectors a good gob of dielectric grease (bulb grease) that pays dividends for years.

Once you release the connector it will come out from under the calternator with some fiddeling. May need to raise the alt. Then it's free.

When you pull the HES, everything looks great on the outside. The sheath is fine, but the separate wires inside are shot. slice it open and have a look.

While you are in there you might want to look at your TB's. Mine were coated on the inside with a thick black, almost tar like coating. If your BBS's haven't been "adjusted" (look for blue paint), don't touch them. Get the TB's off, one at a time and clean them with tooth brushes, Q-tips and a large can of carb cleaner for each side. Pay special attention to the passage controlled by the BBS. Shoot a lot of carb cleaner thru there each way. Clean TB's make a big difference.


Old Fart Newbie
#1000992 - 11/15/17 11:34 PM Re: 98 R1100RT won't run. [Re: Reecehk]  
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Reecehk Offline
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Reecehk  Offline
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South Australia
Yes I have all the items including a box, according to a video I watched the scratching marks around the plate is only good for the existing plate, a new sensor has to be aligned, this video was a big help and also gave a link to the sensor diagram pdf:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0g5WD7C4K_0
The unit has been shipped with tracking, I'll be watching that impatiently!! smile
Thanks.

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