Jump to content
IGNORED

R1200RT WONT START


Dimond

Recommended Posts

R1200RT won't start

 

Started fine this AM. Kickstand down and in neutral and ran it for two minutes. 20 minutes later heading out for a ride BUT bike would not start! Turn on key and all lights come on. Push starter button and all I get is a faint click coming from ecu (where I plug in my gs911). Get this click each time I push starter button. Gear selector indicates correctly. GS911 gives NO FAULTS FOUND. Guessing kickstand switch may be faulty? Ki kstand Battery is at 13volts and jumping with fresh battery did not help. Suggestions. Thanks.

Link to comment
R1200RT won't start

 

Started fine this AM. Kickstand down and in neutral and ran it for two minutes. 20 minutes later heading out for a ride BUT bike would not start! Turn on key and all lights come on. Push starter button and all I get is a faint click coming from ecu (where I plug in my gs911). Get this click each time I push starter button. Gear selector indicates correctly. GS911 gives NO FAULTS FOUND. Guessing kickstand switch may be faulty? Ki kstand Battery is at 13volts and jumping with fresh battery did not help. Suggestions. Thanks.

 

 

Afternoon Dimond

 

Put a voltmeter across the battery posts then see what the voltage is (drops to) when you push the starter button. (this should give us a direction to look in)

 

Pulling clutch lever in during starting in should eliminate a faulty side stand switch as long as trans is in neutral)

 

Might be a bad battery, or a battery cable connection, or starter, or ???????

 

 

 

Link to comment

Battery voltage 12.70v key off. 12.20v key on. 12.20v when I depress starter button (is,no measurable drop in voltage) -still hear faint clicking noise at ECU. In neutral with clutch in or out, kickstand up or or down - same results. Next? Thanks😉.

Link to comment
Battery voltage 12.70v key off. 12.20v key on. 12.20v when I depress starter button (is,no measurable drop in voltage) -still hear faint clicking noise at ECU. In neutral with clutch in or out, kickstand up or or down - same results. Next? Thanks😉.

 

Morning Dimond

 

That clicking that you hear is probably the starter relay clicking (it's mounted on the side of that GS-911 connector housing)

 

In any case your next move is going to be removing the L/H side lower Tupperware & accessing the starter. (specifically the rear of the starter)

 

You are going to need to determine IF & what part of the starter is getting 12v when.

 

You will need either a 12v test light or a DC voltmeter.

 

See picture below for test points "A", "B", "C"

 

First place to test is "A", so hook a 12v test light (or voltmeter) to post "A" & the battery (-) post. It should show battery voltage or bright test light all the time (does it?)

Now with key-on push starter button. "A" should still show close to battery voltage or bright test light. (does it?)

 

Next, move your test light or voltmeter probe to "B" on starter. That terminal should show no voltage or no test light. Next, turn key on & push starter button, terminal "B" should NOW show close to battery voltage or bright test light. (does it?)

 

Next, move your test light or voltmeter probe to "C" on starter (leave wire from bike harness hooked to that terminal). That terminal should show no voltage or no test light. Next, turn key on & push starter button, terminal "C" should NOW show close to battery voltage or bright test light. (does it?)

 

If it passes all the above tests then you probably have a bad starter (you might try rapping side of starter with a hammer while holding starter button down with key on)--- (if it then cranks you are pretty sure you have internal starter issues)-- DON'T do this before the above electrical tests or you will lose the ability to tell a bad starter from a bad starter solenoid.

 

If it doesn't pass one or more of the above tests tell us which ones & we can then tell you the next system to test in the starting chain.

 

 

 

 

XMV7eCm.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
....

test points "A", "B", "C"…......

 

The "C" connection had come off. I crimped the female connection a bit and pushed it back on. Starts fine now. Thanks DR for getting me to diagnose this problem properly as I was looking elsewhere for the solution. BTW the faint clicking sound was coming from the ECU - put a stethoscope on ECU to confirm this.

 

Link to comment
Dave_zoom_zoom
....

test points "A", "B", "C"…......

 

The "C" connection had come off. I crimped the female connection a bit and pushed it back on. Starts fine now. Thanks DR for getting me to diagnose this problem properly as I was looking elsewhere for the solution. BTW the faint clicking sound was coming from the ECU - put a stethoscope on ECU to confirm this.

 

 

 

This is another big THANK YOU to DR. Your ongoing help on this site is a TREMENDOUS help to so many of us!

 

THANK YOU

Dave zoom zoom

Link to comment
  • 3 years later...
On 12/7/2017 at 7:03 AM, dirtrider said:

 

Morning Dimond

 

That clicking that you hear is probably the starter relay clicking (it's mounted on the side of that GS-911 connector housing)

 

In any case your next move is going to be removing the L/H side lower Tupperware & accessing the starter. (specifically the rear of the starter)

 

You are going to need to determine IF & what part of the starter is getting 12v when.

 

You will need either a 12v test light or a DC voltmeter.

 

See picture below for test points "A", "B", "C"

 

First place to test is "A", so hook a 12v test light (or voltmeter) to post "A" & the battery (-) post. It should show battery voltage or bright test light all the time (does it?)

Now with key-on push starter button. "A" should still show close to battery voltage or bright test light. (does it?)

 

Next, move your test light or voltmeter probe to "B" on starter. That terminal should show no voltage or no test light. Next, turn key on & push starter button, terminal "B" should NOW show close to battery voltage or bright test light. (does it?)

 

Next, move your test light or voltmeter probe to "C" on starter (leave wire from bike harness hooked to that terminal). That terminal should show no voltage or no test light. Next, turn key on & push starter button, terminal "C" should NOW show close to battery voltage or bright test light. (does it?)

 

If it passes all the above tests then you probably have a bad starter (you might try rapping side of starter with a hammer while holding starter button down with key on)--- (if it then cranks you are pretty sure you have internal starter issues)-- DON'T do this before the above electrical tests or you will lose the ability to tell a bad starter from a bad starter solenoid.

 

If it doesn't pass one or more of the above tests tell us which ones & we can then tell you the next system to test in the starting chain.

 

 

 

 

XMV7eCm.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dirtrider, Dave, and others,

 

I stumbled on this old thread; I'm having exactly the same problems with Brunhilde, my 2007 RT with 87k miles,  "clicking" instead of starting, except my "C" connector had not come off (as was the case with Dimond).

 

I performed the tests you suggested, with these results:  The "A" and "C" terminals test passed (12.5V when starter button pressed), but the "B" terminal did not (no voltage showing after starter button pressed). 

 

Battery is only a few months old, on every test (including high  beam headlight and pressing starter button) it tested 12.4V - 12.6V. The clicking seems to be the solenoid attached to the starter, but the starter is not reacting.

 

Later this week I plan to remove the starter and see if I can tell what, if anything, it is doing (using this video 

 

Anything else I should try or test  before buying a starter?

 

Thanks for your help and wisdom!

Link to comment

  Morning Brunhilde

 

As long as the voltage is staying above 11at the starter power test points then it is probably a good idea to remove starter for further testing. 

 

The first test I usually run with starter removed is to run 12v+ to the solenoid  (A) stud & ground battery (-) to the starter case, then jump (C) to (A) to see if the solenoid pulls in & the starter runs at full speed. 

 

THEN, run the other starter tests shown in the video. 

 

If you run the other tests first & you have a sticky starter drive on the starter armature shaft then those tests might momentarily free the starter drive enough to give you false test feedback. 

 

Another test (or thing) I sometimes try is-- (with starter still on engine) to keep pushing the starter button (or have someone else do that) as I rap on the solenoid & starter case with a plastic (or non marring) hammer (or something) to see if that gets the starter turning. If it does start running don't  just put it back together & call it good as something in the starter needs cleaning.

 

The above test is only to verify the cause as sometimes removing a starter will jar things enough to get it working so it passes the video tests but is really isn't permanently repaired.    

Link to comment
  • 1 year later...
On 12/7/2017 at 9:03 AM, dirtrider said:

First place to test is "A", so hook a 12v test light (or voltmeter) to post "A" & the battery (-) post. It should show battery voltage or bright test light all the time (does it?) <Yes shows 12.4V>

Now with key-on push starter button. "A" should still show close to battery voltage or bright test light. (does it?) <Yes shows 12.4V>

 

Next, move your test light or voltmeter probe to "B" on starter. That terminal should show no voltage or no test light. <Yes shows no voltage> Next, turn key on & push starter button, terminal "B" should NOW show close to battery voltage or bright test light. (does it?) <No shows 0 V>

 

Next, move your test light or voltmeter probe to "C" on starter (leave wire from bike harness hooked to that terminal). That terminal should show no voltage or no test light. <Yes shows 0 V> Next, turn key on & push starter button, terminal "C" should NOW show close to battery voltage or bright test light. (does it?) <No shows 0 V>

 

If it passes all the above tests then you probably have a bad starter (you might try rapping side of starter with a hammer while holding starter button down with key on)--- (if it then cranks you are pretty sure you have internal starter issues)-- DON'T do this before the above electrical tests or you will lose the ability to tell a bad starter from a bad starter solenoid.

 

If it doesn't pass one or more of the above tests tell us which ones & we can then tell you the next system to test in the starting chain.

 

 

 

 

XMV7eCm.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Hi All,

 

I’m hoping the original and very knowledgeable posters are still around and could help with my issue. I have a 2011 R1200RT with the exact starting issue described by the OP.

 

I have gone through the initial battery tests and I have 12.7V key off, 12.4V key on, 12.4V when starter pressed. I have quoted the starter test procedure and added what I found on my bike within < > brackets.

 

After the starter test, I removed the starter from my bike and bench tested it as shown in the YouTube video posted by Brunhilde. All of the bench tests passed so my starter appears to operate as it should. I have also taken out the starter relay under the seat and tested that. It also works as it should.

 

I’m completely stumped as to what’s going on. When key is in bike and it’s turned on, dash lights up, fuel pump buzzes, and then I get a soft clicking from the ECU. I’m in neutral and clutch is in (kick stand is also up) when pressing start, but nothing happens.

 

I should also say that when this first happened and my bike refused to start I was out riding. I had stopped for a break and later came back out to where I parked my bike. I tried to start it up as normal but it wouldn’t start as it does now. In order to get home I managed to push started it down a nearby hill with the help of a passerby. Took me two tries and a lot of pushing but I got it the second try once I got into a high enough gear to turn the engine over.

 

Anyway, I’m completely stumped as to what is wrong. Any help would be appreciated. I really don’t want to have to figure out how to load a dead bike on my trailer and haul it off to the dealership 4 hours away.

 

-Joe 

Link to comment
7 hours ago, Joe Williams said:


Hi All,

 

I’m hoping the original and very knowledgeable posters are still around and could help with my issue. I have a 2011 R1200RT with the exact starting issue described by the OP.

 

I have gone through the initial battery tests and I have 12.7V key off, 12.4V key on, 12.4V when starter pressed. I have quoted the starter test procedure and added what I found on my bike within < > brackets.

 

After the starter test, I removed the starter from my bike and bench tested it as shown in the YouTube video posted by Brunhilde. All of the bench tests passed so my starter appears to operate as it should. I have also taken out the starter relay under the seat and tested that. It also works as it should.

 

I’m completely stumped as to what’s going on. When key is in bike and it’s turned on, dash lights up, fuel pump buzzes, and then I get a soft clicking from the ECU. I’m in neutral and clutch is in (kick stand is also up) when pressing start, but nothing happens.

 

I should also say that when this first happened and my bike refused to start I was out riding. I had stopped for a break and later came back out to where I parked my bike. I tried to start it up as normal but it wouldn’t start as it does now. In order to get home I managed to push started it down a nearby hill with the help of a passerby. Took me two tries and a lot of pushing but I got it the second try once I got into a high enough gear to turn the engine over.

 

Anyway, I’m completely stumped as to what is wrong. Any help would be appreciated. I really don’t want to have to figure out how to load a dead bike on my trailer and haul it off to the dealership 4 hours away.

 

-Joe 

Morning Joe 

 

It sounds like your electronics are not allowing the stater to energize. Could be the handlebar push button switch circuity or in the actual electronics system.  

 

Are you getting anything showing on your dash like  (EWS), if you have EWS showing it won't start. Problem is, I don't think you can even push start them when EWS is showing (but I haven't ever tried on the 2011).

 

Is the neutral light on when you try to start it?  

 

It is slightly possible that your have a failed side stand switch AND a failed clutch switch. Of a failed neutral switch AND a failed clutch switch. (if neutral light is not on during starting attempt) 

 

You probably should try to get a GS-911 on that motorcycle, you can work around most things without a GS-911 but it won't be easy as you have to follow the starting signal input into the electronics then out of the electronics with limited access & limited diagram of function. 

 

Unlike the  original posting here you have a different motorcycle so the handlebar switch-pod assembly is different.  

 

Your camhead has a handlebar switch-pod that has known switching failure issues so your problem could very easily be a failed start push-button-switch (not unheard of on the camhead). A GS-911 should show that handlebar switch operation.  

 

This post should really be in the camhead forum but the starter circuit testing mentioned above is fairly close. 

 

 

 

Link to comment
14 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Are you getting anything showing on your dash like  (EWS), if you have EWS showing it won't start. Problem is, I don't think you can even push start them when EWS is showing (but I haven't ever tried on the 2011).

 

Is the neutral light on when you try to start it? 


Thanks for the reply dirtrider.

 

To answer your questions, in both cases with key on and ignition switch on, EWS is not on and neutral is showing on the dash.

 

Is there anything else you can think of that I can try before getting a GS-911? Looks like one will cost me about $500 CAD plus I will either need to buy a windows based laptop or borrow one from a friend. I’ve also checked in my local BMW Motorrad FB group but no one has one available so far.

Link to comment
11 hours ago, Joe Williams said:


Thanks for the reply dirtrider.

 

To answer your questions, in both cases with key on and ignition switch on, EWS is not on and neutral is showing on the dash.

 

Is there anything else you can think of that I can try before getting a GS-911? Looks like one will cost me about $500 CAD plus I will either need to buy a windows based laptop or borrow one from a friend. I’ve also checked in my local BMW Motorrad FB group but no one has one available so far.

Morning Joe

 

You can try to by-pass the start button to see if that is the problem.

 

The start button simply tells the computer to initiate starter run.

 

Coming out of your R/H switch assembly there should be a  brown/blue and  green/yellow wire.

 

With transmission in neutral, key ON, (make darn sure it is neutral) see if you can short the 

 brown/blue to the green/yellow wire. If that makes it crank then you have a failed start button switch. 

 

Also, verify the red wire going to the starter relay has 12v going to it.

 

 

 

Link to comment
2 hours ago, dirtrider said:

You can try to by-pass the start button to see if that is the problem.


Last night I decided to take apart the start button. I got the outer cover separated from the internal buttons and made sure bike was in neutral and battery was fully charged. With the internal buttons exposed and starter switch still hooked up as normal, I was able to press directly on the start button, start the bike, and then shut it off with the kill button. Somehow, it seems that the switch in the outer cover was not contacting the internal starter button. It looks like one of the screws holding the buttons inside the outer cover may have been over tightened making things a little loose. There was also a broken screw hole in the part attached to the heated hand grip that holds the switch assembly to the handlebar. I’m going to re-assemble the switch and then test it again. If it gives me trouble I’m going to order a whole new switch assembly. I hope not as that part is about $300 CAD plus I’d have to order a new right heated hand grip at about $250.

Link to comment
  • 6 months later...
FireguyRN
On 12/7/2017 at 5:03 AM, dirtrider said:

 

That clicking that you hear is probably the starter relay clicking (it's mounted on the side of that GS-911 connector housing)

 

In any case your next move is going to be removing the L/H side lower Tupperware & accessing the starter. (specifically the rear of the starter)

 

You are going to need to determine IF & what part of the starter is getting 12v when.

 

You will need either a 12v test light or a DC voltmeter.

 

See picture below for test points "A", "B", "C"

 

First place to test is "A", so hook a 12v test light (or voltmeter) to post "A" & the battery (-) post. It should show battery voltage or bright test light all the time (does it?)

Now with key-on push starter button. "A" should still show close to battery voltage or bright test light. (does it?)

 

Next, move your test light or voltmeter probe to "B" on starter. That terminal should show no voltage or no test light. Next, turn key on & push starter button, terminal "B" should NOW show close to battery voltage or bright test light. (does it?)

 

Next, move your test light or voltmeter probe to "C" on starter (leave wire from bike harness hooked to that terminal). That terminal should show no voltage or no test light. Next, turn key on & push starter button, terminal "C" should NOW show close to battery voltage or bright test light. (does it?)

 

If it passes all the above tests then you probably have a bad starter (you might try rapping side of starter with a hammer while holding starter button down with key on)--- (if it then cranks you are pretty sure you have internal starter issues)-- DON'T do this before the above electrical tests or you will lose the ability to tell a bad starter from a bad starter solenoid.

 

If it doesn't pass one or more of the above tests tell us which ones & we can then tell you the next system to test in the starting chain.

 

 

 

 

XMV7eCm.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello there DR.


     My 2006 R1200RTP (yes, it's an old cop bike) is doing the same thing.  I've owned it for about 9 years, and haven't had hardly any problems with it.  It has been a couple years since the dealer has seen/serviced it, and it's been about 8-9 months since I've had it out.  I went to start it the other day; all the lights came on, but nothing happened when I pressed the starter button.  I put my battery conditioner on it, and left it.  Yesterday, I tried to start it again, and it clicked maybe 4-5 times before just stopping.  When I left the key on, the lights and everything "pulses" about every 3 seconds.  Today, I tried using a battery charger to jump it, thinking that the battery was low or defective, but that didn't do anything either.  I tried charging the battery for 15-20 minutes (the charger indicated that the charge was complete), and tried it several more times with the same results.  I took the charger off, and it just clicked, like a starter thing.  I googled it and came upon this forum. 

     I took the side off, found the starter, and did the above (A, B, C) tests.

          1) For the "A" test, the test light was bright with both the no key and key on/starter button pressed.

          2) For the "B" test, there was no power with the key off, and no light with the key on/starter button pressed.

          3) For the "C" test, there was no power with the key off, and the test light flickered on and off ever so briefly with the key on/starter button pressed.

 

     I should also mention that after several times trying to start it with the battery charger attached, it did give me the "EWS" message a few times, but it went away after I turned off the key, waited for 10ish seconds, and tried it again.

     What would be your next step?  I'm not incredibly mechanically inclined, nor do I have a lift or bike stand to do work on it, but I'm also not very excited about taking it to the dealership (just the starter issue would run me around $750 I'd guess; my last annual service about 2-3 years ago was over $1000).

 

     Thank you ever so much for sharing your knowledge, and getting me up to this point; it really means a lot to me (and I'm sure many others).

 

FG-RN

Link to comment
dirtrider
10 hours ago, FireguyRN said:

 

Hello there DR.


     My 2006 R1200RTP (yes, it's an old cop bike) is doing the same thing.  I've owned it for about 9 years, and haven't had hardly any problems with it.  It has been a couple years since the dealer has seen/serviced it, and it's been about 8-9 months since I've had it out.  I went to start it the other day; all the lights came on, but nothing happened when I pressed the starter button.  I put my battery conditioner on it, and left it.  Yesterday, I tried to start it again, and it clicked maybe 4-5 times before just stopping.  When I left the key on, the lights and everything "pulses" about every 3 seconds.  Today, I tried using a battery charger to jump it, thinking that the battery was low or defective, but that didn't do anything either.  I tried charging the battery for 15-20 minutes (the charger indicated that the charge was complete), and tried it several more times with the same results.  I took the charger off, and it just clicked, like a starter thing.  I googled it and came upon this forum. 

     I took the side off, found the starter, and did the above (A, B, C) tests.

          1) For the "A" test, the test light was bright with both the no key and key on/starter button pressed.

          2) For the "B" test, there was no power with the key off, and no light with the key on/starter button pressed.

          3) For the "C" test, there was no power with the key off, and the test light flickered on and off ever so briefly with the key on/starter button pressed.

 

     I should also mention that after several times trying to start it with the battery charger attached, it did give me the "EWS" message a few times, but it went away after I turned off the key, waited for 10ish seconds, and tried it again.

     What would be your next step?  I'm not incredibly mechanically inclined, nor do I have a lift or bike stand to do work on it, but I'm also not very excited about taking it to the dealership (just the starter issue would run me around $750 I'd guess; my last annual service about 2-3 years ago was over $1000).

 

     Thank you ever so much for sharing your knowledge, and getting me up to this point; it really means a lot to me (and I'm sure many others).

 

FG-RN

Morning FG-RN

 

At first read of your problem it sort of sounds like a bad battery (especially if it is still an original Gel type battery). But that is just somewhat of an educated guess from afar without full information.

 

What you really need to be somewhat sure is to put a DC voltmeter on the battery posts then see what the static battery voltage is (over 12.5 volts), then see what the voltage does when you turn the key to on (stays above 12.5 volts, & especially see what the battery voltage does when you try to start the engine. (if the battery voltage  drops to below 10 volts when trying to start then it is either a bad battery or you didn't get a good charge in it with you charger). If the battery is really bad, weak, or defective then you might not get a good cranking voltage test as there might not be enough battery power to pull (& hold) the starter solenoid engaged. It might quickly drop to below 10 volts the come back up a little as the starter solenoid can't hold the contacts closed.  

 

The lights (pulsing about every 3 seconds) could very well be due to the battery charger's charging cycle. See if they quit pulsing if you remove the battery charger.

 

In most cases you can't jump start it directly using JUST a small battery charger as the small charger just doesn't produce enough amps to actually crank the engine. If you have a good battery then charging it for while will charge the battery enough to start it. If your battery is bad the battery won't accept (and hold)  enough charge to start the engine. 

 

If you have access to some jumper cables you can try jumping your motorcycle battery using a non-running automobile or light truck). If this allows the starter to crank the engine then you should look into replacing the motorcycle battery. 

 

Lacking a voltmeter you can (first, make sure the transmissionism in Neutral), then with the battery charged until the charger shows charged, try jumping (A) to (C)  on the starter.  If it cranks over OK you probably have issues in the (key-on) or (starter push button) side of the starting circuit. 

 

If it doesn't crank over, or only cranks for a second or two, then you either have poor (high resistance) battery cable connections at the battery posts, or at the starter. (check the battery post connections)

 

Or, you have a bad starter.

 

Or, most likely have a bad battery (this is the most probable given the long period since it last ran).

 

Keep in mind that you can't tell much from the battery charger showing the battery is charged, if the battery is bad it can still hold a small charge, enough to please the charger's voltage sensing system & light the motorcycle dash lights. But won't hold nearly enough reserve to run the high-amp-draw starter. 

 

Another option is to remove the battery then then take it to a motorcycle shop, or a battery shop, or even some auto parts stores & have the battery load tested. I don't know what country you are in but in the USA there are a lot of places that can load test a motorcycle battery.  A number of them will even do it for free. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
FireguyRN

Thanks for the reply D.R.! 

 

So, here's what I've got:

     1) The battery is only about 2-3 years old (however, keep reading).

     2) I've included a picture of my battery charger (different than my maintainer; sorry if I didn't make that clear).

     3) I've included a link to the video of the pulsing, with no charger attached.

     4) Battery voltages with ignition on, off, and with start button pressed:

          A) Ignition off - 10.9 volts

          B) Ignition on - 9.5 volts

          C) Pressing Start Button - it's kind-of all over the place, but never more than 10 volts

     5) I also tried jumping 'A' to 'C', and the only thing that happened was the headlight turned on.

 

     The only thing that confuses me is that putting my charger on "start" should give it enough power to to start, but it doesn't.  It sounds like I need to invest in another battery regardless.  I just don't know what the rest of it means.  Maybe my starter is toast also.  Maybe I've got bigger problems.
 

 

Charger.jpg

Link to comment
Hosstage

Your battery is toast.

It won't jump start because the battery is bad, or at least far too discharged.

For reference, a battery is fully charged at 12.9volts, 12.5 volts is less than 75% charged, 11.9v considered about 30%. 10.9 volts is dead.

Link to comment
dirtrider
Quote

 

Thanks for the reply D.R.! 

 

So, here's what I've got:

     1) The battery is only about 2-3 years old (however, keep reading).

     2) I've included a picture of my battery charger (different than my maintainer; sorry if I didn't make that clear).

     3) I've included a link to the video of the pulsing, with no charger attached.

     4) Battery voltages with ignition on, off, and with start button pressed:

          A) Ignition off - 10.9 volts

          B) Ignition on - 9.5 volts

          C) Pressing Start Button - it's kind-of all over the place, but never more than 10 volts

     5) I also tried jumping 'A' to 'C', and the only thing that happened was the headlight turned on.

 

     The only thing that confuses me is that putting my charger on "start" should give it enough power to to start, but it doesn't.  It sounds like I need to invest in another battery regardless.  I just don't know what the rest of it means.  Maybe my starter is toast also.  Maybe I've got bigger problems.

 

Morning FG-RN

 

You definitely have a low battery issue. Probably a bad battery but that is unknown without more battery info. 

 

It is difficult to tell in the picture but it sort of looks like an Odyssey battery? If so those don't charge properly with a regular maintainer, or even with you larger starting charger. If it is in fact an Odessey PC 680 battery & only a few years old then you m-i-g-h-t be able to condition it with a proper run-down & proper recharging cycles.  

 

I'm not sure on the flashing lights as you have an RT-P police bike, those can have all kinds of electrical add-ons & most came with dual batteries.  No way to know what was done during police equipment removal.

 

In any case it might be as simple as the ABS brake system trying to do a self test with a low battery and every time it initiates the self test it pulls the voltage even lower & flashes the lights.  

 

You might try part of the voltage tests you ran above but put the BIG charger on the 10 amp setting then charge it for about 1 hour. Then (with the charger still hooked up & charging)  run the key-on voltage test. See if the lights still flash with the key-on & battery voltage above 12 volts (if it won't hold 12 volts with the charger on 10 amp setting then you will probably need a new battery to tell much).

 

If you have jumper cables you can also try simply jumping it from a non-running automobile (12v system), even if your motorcycle battery is bad that should supply enough current to make the motorcycle think it has a properly charged & functioning battery. 

 

You will probably need a new battery at least to know where you stand with the indicated problems. But IF your battery is an Odyssey PC 680 then you might be able to save it.

 

Post back here & tell us if it is an Odyssey PC 680 battery & I will send you a proper PC 680 reconditioning procedure. (this can depend on how much voltage your starting charger can supply during the bulk charge phase, it might not be high enough to recondition the PC 680 as that has special requirements)  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment

I tend to agree that the battery is probably toast.  If it was left connected while the bike was unused for an extended period, normal parasitic loads can run it down and then it will sulfate.  Unconnected, an Odyssey will hold a charge for years.

 

One thing I like about Odyssey is that they publish detailed instructions and specs for their AGM batteries. I think this is the reconditioning procedure that DR mentioned, but I don't hold out a lot of hope for it.     The Owners manual has a very good section on proper charging voltages and maintenance procedures.  They recommend chargers that have specific automatic charging profiles, but for years I managed to get by using my old Schauer charger(@14.7V) for the initial 8 hour bulk charge and then manually switching to my Optimate 4 for the 13.6V float.  I guess that method worked, my PC-680 just celebrated its 12th birthday. 

Link to comment
FireguyRN

Thanks everybody for the excellent advice!  I will do the suggested actions and reply on here soon.  Unfortunately for me, I'm starting my work cycle, so I won't have a chance to do any of this until the middle of next week.  I'm an ER Nurse and work the next 4 days, 12 hour shifts.

 

You all are great!

 

FireguyRN

Link to comment
dirtrider
2 minutes ago, FireguyRN said:

Thanks everybody for the excellent advice!  I will do the suggested actions and reply on here soon.  Unfortunately for me, I'm starting my work cycle, so I won't have a chance to do any of this until the middle of next week.  I'm an ER Nurse and work the next 4 days, 12 hour shifts.

 

You all are great!

 

FireguyRN

Morning FireguyRN

 

Just keep in mind that if you DON'T have an Odyssey PC 680 battery then do not use Larry's posted link above (that is the reason that I usually don't post a link without adding a disclaimer & Odyssey battery verification).   -(this is more for future readers of this thread)-   

 

The BMW hexhead came with a GEL battery & a lot of dealers/riders/police agencies just replaced the battery with what it came with (a GEL battery). 

 

Using that reclamation process on a GEL battery will flat out kill it.  

 

Yours l-o-o-k-s like an Odyssey battery from a rather poor picture of the top but it could be something else.   (so trust but verify)

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

It's amazing to me the difference a jump battery makes over a charger put on "start" mode.  I put my jump box on it, instead of using the charger, and it fired up on the 2nd attempt.  I feel like an idiot!  D.R., I do have an Odyssey PC 680 battery, so I'm going to try the reclamation process outlined by Larry.  Thanks to you all for your patience with me.  Now to put all the panels and stuff back on.

 

FG RN

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...