Dan CataTB rebuild

In the process of rebuild 03rt 1150 throttle body . Couple items I noticed, a few tips and a question.

First, no directions come with kit although beemerboneyard does provide a link for a download with pictures. Directions say to remove pulley by removing large screw. My pulley had no screw securing it. It was pressed on, easily removed by lightly grinding off the top of the spindle where it comes thru the pulley and then tapping it out with a punch. An alternate way to remove spindle is to remove c-clip from other end and simply push the shaft thru , then you can mount shaft and remove pulley in a vise. ( just a different order from directions but works as well ) Remove old bushings. I used a thread cutting tap inserted in old bushings . Threaded in about 7/8 thru bushing ( don't go too deep as the recess for the bushing has a collar it seats onto ) then I inserted a rod from the other side and trapped it out. Real easy. Seemed easier than the threaded rod / wire method.

Question. The directions for removal said there is a thin washer under the pulley and on top of the o-ring. Mine didn't have one. A U-tube video showed a rebuild and it didn't have a washer either. Does it need a washer ? Thanks.

In the process of rebuild 03rt 1150 throttle body . Couple items I noticed, a few tips and a question.

First, no directions come with kit although beemerboneyard does provide a link for a download with pictures. Directions say to remove pulley by removing large screw. My pulley had no screw securing it. It was pressed on, easily removed by lightly grinding off the top of the spindle where it comes thru the pulley and then tapping it out with a punch. An alternate way to remove spindle is to remove c-clip from other end and simply push the shaft thru , then you can mount shaft and remove pulley in a vise. ( just a different order from directions but works as well ) Remove old bushings. I used a thread cutting tap inserted in old bushings . Threaded in about 7/8 thru bushing ( don't go too deep as the recess for the bushing has a collar it seats onto ) then I inserted a rod from the other side and trapped it out. Real easy. Seemed easier than the threaded rod / wire method.

Question. The directions for removal said there is a thin washer under the pulley and on top of the o-ring. Mine didn't have one. A U-tube video showed a rebuild and it didn't have a washer either. Does it need a washer ? Thanks.

Afternoon Joeb

I have seen the 1100 bikes with both pressed on & threaded on but most 1150 bikes that I have seen use pressed on.

I don't like driving directly on my expensive taps so usually thread first, then screw a bolt in, then drive on the bolt.

As for the washer, some seem to have them & some don't.

I have found that heating the old bushings first with a heat gun allows them to be tapped out fairly easily.

Hi joeb,

There's a pdf download available here - https://www.sugarsync.com/pf/D2331532_08911205_68940

The pictorial was made around a set of early intakes, that have the pulley secured to the spindle using a M8 nut; But most intakes have the pulley pressed onto the spindle, hence you can just hammer/punch it out using some round tool, <5mm in diameter (so that it can go trough the pulley)

You can/should first remove the c-clip and then extract the pulley with the spindle and remove the spindle, it is easier this way.

For removing the old bushings, I have found the broken screw extractor kit to be the most useful. However, from time to time, it happens that it is not enough and the bushing just won't come out. Then I use the M10 tap. There is nothing destructive in the process, except well for the old bushing that you are going to throw away in the end. the tap does not get damaged, and it works better than anything because it catches really well into the inside of the bushing and comes out with it nicely. I have found that the most difficult to remove bushings are for the bikes that stay at sea level and get corroded, the bushing kinda welds to the intake. But in the end, it does come off nice and clean.

There is no thin washer if you have pressed on pulleys. The only washer is under the c-clip in your case.

Dan.

old thread, but somewhat relevant to my issue. I have a 1995 RT and it has the shaft as per the original instructions - nut holding on the pulley, and thin washer between the pulley and the oring. 

however on reassembly, if I use the washer and tighten up the pulley to the shaft with the Allen screw, the shaft is tight and not moving freely. if I leave the washer out, it moves nice and free.

should I leave it out?

found my solution here:

https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/r-1100-1150-gs-rt-rs-r-s-throttle-body-repair-kit.630335/page-22#post-38583244

long story short, leave that thin washer out. later models don't have it.