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Best CCA Battery?


Dimond

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I am looking for a NEW battery. My R1200RT historically struggles to rapidly 'turn over' - even with a new battery. Here is a link comparing a PC680 Odyssey ($117, CCA 170) to a Scorpion YT51913-22 ($78.95, CCA 255). I am inclined to get the Scorpion with more cranking and less cost - thoughts? I am NOT planning on keeping this bike for more than another year.

BTW - I had a Bikemaster MS51913 (CCA) for about 3 years before it stopped working properly and it cranking power on my bike was marginal - but the bike always started. Thanks.

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I am looking for a NEW battery. My R1200RT historically struggles to rapidly 'turn over' - even with a new battery. Here is a link comparing a PC680 Odyssey ($117, CCA 170) to a Scorpion YT51913-22 ($78.95, CCA 255). I am inclined to get the Scorpion with more cranking and less cost - thoughts? I am NOT planning on keeping this bike for more than another year.

BTW - I had a Bikemaster MS51913 (CCA) for about 3 years before it stopped working properly and it cranking power on my bike was marginal - but the bike always started. Thanks.

 

Evening Dimond

 

You need to do some investigation. CCA by itself doesn't tell the whole story. You need to determine at what pulldown voltage the CCA is measured at. 255CCA at a lower cranking voltage isn't very useful if it is below the cranking voltage that your motorcycle needs. Or put another way: 170CCA @10 volts beats the heck out of 255CCA @ 7 volts. (note; these are not the actual voltage numbers just used to show the possible difference)

 

I don't know the specs on the Scorpion but a lot of cheap power supply batteries will beat the Odyssey on CCA alone but can't cut the mustard at decent cranking voltage in real cold weather that the Odyssey handles with ease.

 

 

 

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If you're looking for something cheaper than the odyssey, check out Deka. You can find them priced close to the Scorpion and have a good reputation. I have one in my 2014 R1200GS and had one in my 2011 RT.

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I have been using Westco for a number of years and they work just fine. You can usually get them from BeemerBoneYard for a really good price. If you are a member of ADVrider there is a discount as well and I think one for being a member of the BMW MOA.

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Don't know if Hexhead uses the same size battery as the older R1100RT but I really think the AGM battery UB12220 from Universal Battery is all that and a bag of chips. It is a 22AH battery VS 19AH for the OEM and seems to offer enough cranking power spin up my R1100 without a problems even down to 40F. It cost me about $50 shipped to my door (the virtue of shopping outside the MC market channel). The R1100RT had a problem with the ABS computer throwing a low voltage fault on start up if the battery wasn't fully up to snuff. This battery eliminated that issue as the voltage always seems to be above the fault threshold even after sitting for a couple for weeks without being on a battery tender.

 

The only thing to keep in mind is that this battery was originally designed for computer battery back up and emergency lighting systems so your have to ream out the post holes slightly to fit the RT battery bolts and connectors. When I first went to this battery I was concerned that the posts being thinner than a automotive battery it would suffer reliability issues in an automotive environment, but that should not be a worry as I have now run three of them with each lasting 5+ years if you use a tender in the off season.

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Don't know if Hexhead uses the same size battery as the older R1100RT but I really think the AGM battery UB12220 from Universal Battery is all that and a bag of chips. It is a 22AH battery VS 19AH for the OEM and seems to offer enough cranking power spin up my R1100 without a problems even down to 40F. It cost me about $50 shipped to my door (the virtue of shopping outside the MC market channel). The R1100RT had a problem with the ABS computer throwing a low voltage fault on start up if the battery wasn't fully up to snuff. This battery eliminated that issue as the voltage always seems to be above the fault threshold even after sitting for a couple for weeks without being on a battery tender.

 

The only thing to keep in mind is that this battery was originally designed for computer battery back up and emergency lighting systems so your have to ream out the post holes slightly to fit the RT battery bolts and connectors. When I first went to this battery I was concerned that the posts being thinner than a automotive battery this battery would suffer reliability issues in an automotive environment, but that should not be a worry as I have now run three of them with each lasting 5+ years if you use a tender in the off season.

 

Morning Paul

 

Just keep in mind that you are comparing a Universal (power supply) battery to a heavy duty starting & Power Craft battery. Even then you are comparing AH rating not starting capability of CCA. AH rating is much me important to a continuous drain power supply battery but in a vehicle starting battery CCA at starting pull down voltage is much more important.

 

Most UB12220 (from different manufacture/suppliers) will start a BMW 1100/1150 OK in warmish weather (40°f isn't very cold) but they don't have a lot of (weren't designed to) carry much reserve starting capacity.

 

The UB12220 also have rather thin cases (they don't need to withstand continuous bouncing & vibrations & their plates are thin & the posts & post connections are very light duty.

 

For a cheaper battery (light duty) the UB12220 isn't a bad battery but they sure aren't very robust & lack any serious cold weather starting capacity.

 

 

 

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Interesting replies - thanks! Bought the Scorpion. Will advise in a week on my perceived cranking power. Most of my starting is at 50f plus. Rarely in the mid 30s _ never lower.

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Morning Paul

 

Just keep in mind that you are comparing a Universal (power supply) battery to a heavy duty starting & Power Craft battery. Even then you are comparing AH rating not starting capability of CCA. AH rating is much me important to a continuous drain power supply battery but in a vehicle starting battery CCA at starting pull down voltage is much more important.

 

Most UB12220 (from different manufacture/suppliers) will start a BMW 1100/1150 OK in warmish weather (40°f isn't very cold) but they don't have a lot of (weren't designed to) carry much reserve starting capacity.

 

The UB12220 also have rather thin cases (they don't need to withstand continuous bouncing & vibrations & their plates are thin & the posts & post connections are very light duty.

 

For a cheaper battery (light duty) the UB12220 isn't a bad battery but they sure aren't very robust & lack any serious cold weather starting capacity.

Afternoon D.R.

 

I fully get your points and were my concerns as well, but did the first UB12220 as a $50 experiment. After 15+ years of using these nonstandard batteries, none of the concerns pointed out were borne out, but as always, YRMV. I even fired the bike up at below 30F one time but I did have winter weight oil in the motor and it did crank slow, but still it fired the bike up...Thinking it was -5F and will never ride at that temp again...even with my heated gear. To be sure, if I were riding a GS off road a lot, I would not take the chance the UB would survive that environment.

 

Interesting replies - thanks! Bought the Scorpion. Will advise in a week on my perceived cranking power. Most of my starting is at 50f plus. Rarely in the mid 30s _ never lower.

Yes please let us know what your experience is

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Sold my RT BEFORE the battery arrived. Bought a K1300GT. If it is half as much fun as my RT I will be a happy man! Thanks to all that have provided me invaluable hexhead advice on this forum.

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Sold my RT BEFORE the battery arrived. Bought a K1300GT. If it is half as much fun as my RT I will be a happy man! Thanks to all that have provided me invaluable hexhead advice on this forum.

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  • 3 years later...

Bumping old but relevant thread. I'm replacing my Odyssey PC680 that shows a 2013 date code (7-8 years old). It worked fine up until a cell died apparently because it now will not take a charge.

 

It has never needed a jump start, even in cold cold New England weather, so I was drawn to DR's comments about it being a good battery, and considering getting another Odyssey.

 

The only question I have:
In the last couple of years, if I forget to connect the tender, after a week or three, it will start, but the ABS lights will flash alternatively. But if I let it run for few minutes restart, no flashing lights.

 

Is it possible to get a battery as good as the Odyssey in the cold, but have more umph to avoid abs flashing, and still last seven years? Or do I have it as good as it gets and should I just be happy?

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1 hour ago, Christo said:

Bumping old but relevant thread. I'm replacing my Odyssey PC680 that shows a 2013 date code (7-8 years old). It worked fine up until a cell died apparently because it now will not take a charge.

 

It has never needed a jump start, even in cold cold New England weather, so I was drawn to DR's comments about it being a good battery, and considering getting another Odyssey.

 

The only question I have:
In the last couple of years, if I forget to connect the tender, after a week or three, it will start, but the ABS lights will flash alternatively. But if I let it run for few minutes restart, no flashing lights.

 

Is it possible to get a battery as good as the Odyssey in the cold, but have more umph to avoid abs flashing, and still last seven years? Or do I have it as good as it gets and should I just be happy?

Afternoon Chris

 

You can probably find another similar battery with some searching. Problem is, it will more than likely act the same way after sitting a few weeks  (or more) without a battery tender. 

 

I'm not sure what motorcycle you are working on but the newer electronic fuel injected motorcycles have a steady parasitic battery drain even when just sitting, not a lot but enough to lower the battery SOC (State Of Charge).

 

If your motorcycle has the older   Signal Minder turn signal flasher relay installed they run the battery down rather quickly while motorcycle is parked.

 

Tell us what motorcycle you are working with so we can supply more specific info__  

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Christo said:

Thanks DR!

It's a 95 R1100RSL. You've provided very helpful info for it in the past.

Evening Chris

 

There are different ways to look at your battery situation, you got 7-8 year of usage from your present PC 680 battery so you really have nothing to complain about there.  (that is pretty well unheard of with other battery types) 

 

On the other side the PC 680 takes a slightly higher charging voltage than your 95 R1100RSL charging system puts out so a PC 680 battery will never be at 100% charged  without using a proper battery charger.

 

With the PC 680 battery being on the edge of being fully charged (just from riding) then you are real close to having an ABS default at each cold start. Then add in an older battery & some parasitic battery drain from siting 3 weeks  & you can get those pesky  ABS starting defaults.

 

You can change battery brands to a battery that  fully charges at your lower charging voltage (but that usually gives you a battery with shorter battery life).

 

Or, tear into your alternator & add a higher output voltage  regulator (a BIG pin in the a$$).

 

Or, wire in a relay or push button so your ABS doesn't self test until AFTER engine starting (way I used to do it).

 

Or, go with another 7-8 year battery life PC 680 & just live with the occasional ABS default at cold starting after sitting for a couple of weeks.

 

Or, start using your battery tender again. 

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Wow, thanks for the great explanation and options!!

 

I'm pondering each one carefully. I'm the type that would try the alternator mod. (I just tried to repair a water valve on the refrigerator ice maker). And with the relay idea, I can see adding a device that adds a delay of X seconds before the ABS self tests. Great ideas!

 

A new question comes to mind. I've often heard that a weak/old battery puts extra strain on the alternator, so that it's charging all the time while riding, causing it to fail prematurely. This rings similar to what you're saying about the  PC680. It is true that the PC680 puts more strain on the alt because it never actually charges fully?

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39 minutes ago, Christo said:

Wow, thanks for the great explanation and options!!

 

I'm pondering each one carefully. I'm the type that would try the alternator mod. (I just tried to repair a water valve on the refrigerator ice maker). And with the relay idea, I can see adding a device that adds a delay of X seconds before the ABS self tests. Great ideas!

 

A new question comes to mind. I've often heard that a weak/old battery puts extra strain on the alternator, so that it's charging all the time while riding, causing it to fail prematurely. This rings similar to what you're saying about the  PC680. It is true that the PC680 puts more strain on the alt because it never actually charges fully?

Evening Chris

 

No real impact on the alternator life, battery charging is just one part part of the alternators job as once the engine is up to speed all the lights, on-board electronics, etc are powered by the alternator. 

 

The BMW 1100/1150 motorcycles have a fairly large automotive style alternators (larger than most motorcycles) so there are very few alternator failures. 

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Awesome, thanks DR!

 

Glad to hear they don't fail as often. I like how they have large alternators with rubber v belts like cars. I guess they need to be heavy duty to power all the farkles.

 

I ordered the Odyssey from AutoZone who seems to be the main carrier around here now. They carry the manuf direct version as well as their own version which still has the Odyssey label on top. I opted for the manuf direct for a few dollars more, and since I'll be picking it up in store pre-payment, I can verify the newness of the battery. $130 for the 170CCA PC680.

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16 minutes ago, Christo said:

Awesome, thanks DR!

 

Glad to hear they don't fail as often. I like how they have large alternators with rubber v belts like cars. I guess they need to be heavy duty to power all the farkles.

 

I ordered the Odyssey from AutoZone who seems to be the main carrier around here now. They carry the manuf direct version as well as their own version which still has the Odyssey label on top. I opted for the manuf direct for a few dollars more, and since I'll be picking it up in store pre-payment, I can verify the newness of the battery. $130 for the 170CCA PC680.

Morning Chris

 

Amazon usually has PC 680 battery's for around $117.00 free shipping to your door. 

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My battery crapped out today. Nearly 5.5 years old O'Reilly's Super Start. 310CCA. Replaced with same. I use a battery tender jr. I wish the batteries in my cars did this well. Usually 2-3 years and they are done. 

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