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#957329 - 04/06/16 05:34 PM Re: Introduction and O2 Question [Re: Trobinson]  
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dirtrider Offline
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Originally Posted By: Trobinson
Hi DR,

I understand the nature of the beast. I never felt it much in the hands or feet, but more through the whole bike. Now it is much better and hopefully as Roger says will improve with adaptation and maybe a little playing with the LC-1. We'll see.



Afternoon Tom

Unfortunately the mechanical part is there to stay (just a fact of the BMW 2 cyl boxer design).

With good fuel tuning you can probably attenuate the audible part but the mechanical part is going to produce that higher RPM buzz regardless of the fueling. (just back drive your engine on a dyno with fuel & spark shut off & you will still find that same boxer buzz)

I'm not sure I understand feeling it through the whole bike?-- In order to feel it then it must be getting to your body through your body contact points like hands, feet, or butt.

If some or most of the buzz goes away when you take your hands of the bars at high RPM then it is transferring through the buzzing bars, if the buzz lessens when you take your feet off the pegs at higher RPMs then you are getting some of the buzz through the foot pegs. If you can change the buzz by (lightly) placing your hands at the very ends of the bars (on the bar end weights) then bar end-weight tuning will probably help your (perceived) buzz.

On some BMW boxer bikes you can move your hands to the very outer ends of the bars (on the weights), then play with your feet position on the foot pegs (usually way out on the ends & reduce the weighting a little) & that can significantly reduce the felt buzz. The basic engine buzz is still there but you have changed the chassis tuning enough to dampen the felt buzzing entering your body.

If you move your butt to the rear seat at high RPMs & that changes the felt buzz then some is entering through your front seat as well.

You are probably getting the buzz entry through all body contact points as well as some audio.


D.R. ___
Sent from my rotory dial wall phone!
#957330 - 04/06/16 05:38 PM Re: Introduction and O2 Question [Re: dirtrider]  
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I guess through my butt would be the best way of putting it and certainly some through my hands, but also through my knees at the tank. I'll have to pay more attention next time. I know it's not as bad as my 500 ninja was which I felt through my hands and feet quite well.


Tom
San Antonio, TX

Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

1996 R1100RT
#957335 - 04/06/16 06:18 PM Re: Introduction and O2 Question [Re: Trobinson]  
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Originally Posted By: Trobinson
Originally Posted By: roger 04 rt
Hi Tom,
The coding plug that will work best is a 30-87 jumper (yellow plug) and I hope that is the one you're using.

When you can get a notebook PC or a cold start log in your garage, it will be interesting to see how your bike is interacting with the LC-1. You will need a serial to USB cable if you don't already have one, or a serial port on your PC if it's older. You can now learn a lot about how your bike fuels, enjoy!


Hi Roger,

I'm using a jumper from 30 to 87/87A. The parts fiche does show only 30 to 87, but says with mixture control and cat. Unless they mean an O2 sensor is installed and not the CO pot I don't have mixture control (no CO pot). I'll try changing it to just 30/87 and see how it behaves. I tried finding the post in one of your threads that went through all the CCP configurations, but was unsuccessful. Do you know where it is?

Regarding getting data I will try that with my desktop in the next week or so. Just a pain to lug it down to the garage and connect everything up.


Tom,
Here is the link: http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=760243&page=1.

I later realized that the coding plugs were less structured than I thought, which you can see nearer the end of the above thread. Still, for your R1100RT, 30-87 is the correct plug.

30-87-87a is the correct plug for a closed loop R1100GS.

#957338 - 04/06/16 06:43 PM Re: Introduction and O2 Question [Re: roger 04 rt]  
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Thanks Roger. I also found the thread on adv.


Tom
San Antonio, TX

Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

1996 R1100RT
#957357 - 04/06/16 09:27 PM Re: Introduction and O2 Question [Re: Trobinson]  
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dirtrider Offline
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Originally Posted By: Trobinson
I guess through my butt would be the best way of putting it and certainly some through my hands, but also through my knees at the tank. I'll have to pay more attention next time. I know it's not as bad as my 500 ninja was which I felt through my hands and feet quite well.


Afternoon Tom

Just keep in mind that the more you pay attention the more that you will tune into the buzz, then the more it will bother you.

Some riders just jump on the BMW boxer bike & ride it morning till night & never notice the buzz, once someone points it out they go looking for it & find it (then it's there forever)

Kind of the same way with the BMW boxer surge, it doesn't bother most riders until they go looking for it, then it seems they find it on every ride thereafter.


D.R. ___
Sent from my rotory dial wall phone!
#957364 - 04/06/16 10:32 PM Re: Introduction and O2 Question [Re: dirtrider]  
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DR,

Agreed. I try not to look for things and just ride. Gotta work enough paying attention to riding skills and the road.


Tom
San Antonio, TX

Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

1996 R1100RT
#1003140 - 01/03/18 10:07 PM Re: Introduction and O2 Question [Re: roger 04 rt]  
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Quick update: Since I've just taken delivery of a late model R1200RTW, I will test out the AF-XIED on it (with the latest adapter modules that work around a new BMW O2 sensor test) and then add LC-2s to start logging fueling.

Last edited by roger 04 rt; 01/03/18 10:37 PM.
#1008559 - 03/31/18 05:50 PM Re: Introduction and O2 Question [Re: roger 04 rt]  
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The lambda-shifting saga continues: R1200RTW Lambda Shifting with the AF-XIED

#1013098 - 06/16/18 11:01 AM Re: Introduction and O2 Question [Re: roger 04 rt]  
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I’ve begun to lambda-shift (add either an AF-XIED or Innovate Motorsports LC-2) my new-to-me 2001 R1150GS and have found some problems and differences from the 2004 R1150RT that was the test vehicle for this thread.

On the RT, the O2 sensor is located ahead of the catalytic converter just beyond the point where the two header pipes merge. On the 1150GS, the O2 sensor is located inside the cat, between the points where the two headers enter the cat. This is a more distant location from the cylinder head, with different temperature. As a result, the Closed Loop period at idle is much slower (about 5 seconds, as opposed to about a second on the ‘04RT). The ‘01GS users an older, slower responding thimble-style O2 sensor (the ‘04RT had a faster planar-style).

While setting up and testing an AF-XIED on the ‘01GS, I realized that I could only get the GS to enter Closed Loop (key to having a functioning install) up to setting 5. Above that it flat-lined and registered a too lean mixture. The reason was that my O2 is original, therefore old and tired. Having my ‘04RT O2 sensor on hand, I swapped it in and found that I could get Closed Loop up to setting 9 on the GS, which is plenty rich.

I’ll do some riding now and see how it goes.

#1013303 - 06/22/18 11:55 AM Re: Introduction and O2 Question [Re: roger 04 rt]  
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I did some riding at setting 8 and although the bike ran better, the old RT sensor (see prior post) doesn’t quite have enough juice and I got a couple “O2 sensor shorted to ground” errors in the GS-911 log. After that I cleared the errors and switched to setting 7. That did the trick and the bike pulls great from idle on up, with no errors

With the engine hot I checked the TB balance and noted that idle before the AF-XIED was 1100 RPM. On setting 7 the idle jumped to 1200/1250. The idle speed increase is a simple way to show that the AF-XIED is adding low end torque from idle on up.

While performing the TB sync to reduce idle back to 1100 I also checked the TPS setting using the GS-911, it was at the bottom of the green range with the engine off. Checked with a DVM (engine off), it was 301 mV. With the engine idling, the TPS voltage was 268 mV, likely due to TB shaft wear. The blue paint on the TB stops was intact but there was no paint on the TPS screws. After adjustment, the TPS voltage read 345 mV at idle, which is center of the range.

Last edited by roger 04 rt; 06/22/18 11:56 AM.
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