Jump to content
IGNORED

Crash/engine-bars for the Camheads?


Zapata

Recommended Posts

Hello Team:

 

I did a search but I only found information for the Wetheads.

 

Illium does not make engine guards for the 2010-2013 models. Only the ones for the rear.

 

Any other options besides the Wunderlich bars?

 

Thank you very much.

Link to comment

Hi - I use the ones from National Cycle on my 2012 R1200 RT

 

Great quality & finish.

 

With a little maneuvering, you can take off the valve covers, when you adjust the valves without removing them.

 

And unfortunately they have been tested at a slow stop and not a scratch.

 

They are pricey though.

 

http://www.nationalcycle.com/vehicles/motorcycle-1/bmw/bmwr1200rt/2012bmwr1200rt/z7102.html

Link to comment

Give ZTechnik's bars a look.

 

You don't have to remove them to get the valve covers or the body panels off, they go on/off easily with three bolts, you can mount any 1" highway peg bracket, and they have a boss for additional lights.

 

Bill

Link to comment

I have them on my 2012. Ztechnik, easy maintenance. Look nice and not very difficult to install.

Edited by 6speedTi
Link to comment

Great information! Thank you very much.

 

The Ztechnik guards look the best and very inconspicuous. Not sure if I am reading the instruction right but the only issue is that they attach to the cylinder head on the right side and the oil line holder screw in the left side?

 

Can someone confirm this?

 

 

http://www.nationalcycle.com/media/wysiwyg/pdf/ispl/10-117836-000.pdf

 

 

Link to comment

Yes, those are two of the six attachment points. You will find the screw for the oil line bracket is substantial. Two other attachment points are on the front of the cylinders and the main ones are two large bolts into the lower engine case.

 

Did have a pretty serious crash with these bars on my '10 RT. ZTechnik replaced the bent one charging only for shipping and the bars protected the bike's engine. Replaced a lot of plastic and rode the bike another 50K miles.

 

Bill

Link to comment

I have the Ztechnik crash bars mounted on my 2012 RT. They have performed well after two tip overs in 4 years . They look good as well. One down side is ,the side case will make contact with ground but the engine is protected.

Link to comment

I got mine from Wunderlich. They were not exactly easy to install, but most of the problem was getting the bolt back in to the oil line bracket. They look good, but are powdercoated. On previous GS I had bars from Twisted Throttle. One thing about the Wunderlich is it will be very easy to get the valve covers off. Could have been better instructions.

Link to comment

I order the Heed bars because they were the most affordable. $219 with shipping to the USA. Will report back my findings after installing them.

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATE

 

Hello Team::

 

I just got the Heed bars from Poland and I am having trouble loosing the "engine bolt" that goes trough the engine. According to the instructions it will help if the front suspension is compressed. How this will help? What's the function of that long bolt? Any ideas for removing the bolt? I am afraid of braking it.

Link to comment
UPDATE

 

Hello Team::

 

I just got the Heed bars from Poland and I am having trouble loosing the "engine bolt" that goes trough the engine. According to the instructions it will help if the front suspension is compressed. How this will help? What's the function of that long bolt? Any ideas for removing the bolt? I am afraid of braking it.

 

 

Afternoon Zapata

 

What bolt are you referring to? Can you post a picture with an arrow pointing the bolt in question?

Link to comment

 

 

Afternoon Zapata

 

What bolt are you referring to? Can you post a picture with an arrow pointing the bolt in question?

 

 

This's from the Wunderlich Instructions for their crashing bars. But you can see the bolt here circled in red.

 

80-bolt_capture_d8b9ec7865a1095a7e13a6456033b14e6ece5d99.jpg

 

Thank you.

Link to comment

 

 

Afternoon Zapata

 

What bolt are you referring to? Can you post a picture with an arrow pointing the bolt in question?

 

 

This's from the Wunderlich Instructions for their crashing bars. But you can see the bolt here circled in red.

 

 

Thank you.

 

Evening Zapata

 

Are you sure that is where it attaches? If so that looks like the front sub frame attachment bolt (goes all the way through the engine).

 

That sub frame supports the frontal motorcycle weight so you will probably have to put bike on the center stand then put some weight in the top box (or jack engine up a little) to take the weight off the front to get that long bolt (stud) out.

 

T4DJM8x.jpg

 

 

Link to comment

This is from the Heed web site. The instructions mention about someone seating on the bike or compress the suspension to facilitate the removal of the bolt.

 

I have the bike on the center stand but I do have a motorcycle jack that I can use.

 

You can see the new bolt installed here:

 

 

80-heed_bolt_2b7949be1e7a76ce4bfc3d12787e60ae01b34cab.jpg

 

Thank you very much.

Edited by Zapata
Link to comment
This is from the Heed web site. The instructions mention about someone seating on the bike or compress the suspension to facilitate the removal of the bolt.

 

I have the bike on the center stand but I do have a motorcycle jack that I can use.

 

You can see the new bolt installed here:

 

 

Thank you very much.

 

Evening Zapata

 

Did they send you a longer bolt?

 

Link to comment

Yes, Longer bolt with spacers. So the front tire needs to be raised? I guess once the bike is in the center stand I can put anything heavy in the rear seat to lift the front tire, correct?

 

 

I guess is number 5 in this picture?

 

80-subframe_bolt_b8d250a23bd8c232c74a61f6611c356e90f89ffd.jpg

 

Thank you very much.

Link to comment

If you have a scissor jack in your car that will work. You don't need to really jack up the motorcycle, you just need to shift the balance to the rear. You could probably weight the rear as well but I would rather use a jack if one is available.

 

I've taken the telelever off the front of a camhead, you shouldn't have too much of a problem getting the bolt out.

Link to comment
  • 3 months later...

Heed Crash Bars

 

I just wanted to post my experience with the Heed Crash Bars on my 2012 BMW R1200 RT.

 

 

This product is difficult to install. I have installed both Wunderlich and Touratech on my previous Hexhead RTs. The real time syn is the removal of the engine bolt to use the Heed supplied bolt in its place.

 

My bars do not completely clear the left fairing, and have a contact point directly behind the cylinder head. I contacted the seller and tried to resolve this issue, but they told me the bars were correct and the faring must be a one off problem.

 

The right side bars fit fine, and allow installation of the fairing. The left side bars will not allow me to install the fairing without removing the bars. I knew that I would have to remove them to service the cylinder heads, but having to remove them to remove the fairing seems crazy, and just the left side.

 

I believe my left bar to have one bad bend and requested a new left bar. I was not able to get one.

 

I saw one other review that had similar problems and discounted it as someone who did not have experience with his BMW.

 

They did offer to refund if I returned the bars, but with the uninstall labor and the return shipping cost I just decided to keep it. When I have to do the next 12K service I will just leave these off and buy something better, even if the cost is twice these bars.

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...