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Another ABS thread Code #7


MB_ED

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Hello all,

I'll try to give as many details as possible. 1995 R1100RS I borrowed this bike in May of 2016 for a trip to NC. The ABS lights would blink alternately after engine start, I could hit the ABS button on the left dash and stop them for a bit, until they started again. I put a piece of tape over the lights so I didn't have to look at them while on my trip. The brakes seemed to be working fine as conventional brakes and I mentioned it

to the guy that owned it at the time.

A few months later (Nov 16) this bike becomes mine, complete with alternating ABS lights. I look around on the interwebs, read all kinds of information about low voltage and it's probably my battery. I charge and check the battery, it's good. I notice the starter seems to be having a hard time turning the engine until one day it took a crap so I replaced it thinking maybe that was the starter was the reason for the ABS lights. NOPE! still doing the same thing.

Now I try to clear any faults in the ABS and find out that 2 owners ago he had done the "low voltage modification" as described here http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/ABS-II_low_voltage_modification/index.shtml

Since I knew this owner as well, I wasn't concerned about the quality of the modification. He did it by the numbers and it worked for him. This was done in August of 2010 at 70,000 miles. It was working until about 75,000 miles. Since it's had the mod any code reading or clearing must be done with the engine running.

 

I've gotten around to reading the code and it's #7. I can't clear it, it will not go away. The relay for the mod clicks right after start up ~1000-1100 RPM the lights alternate until I hit the button then the bottom light stays lit. The code says ABS control unit. I've found no diagnostics so I'm lost at this point.

 

The bike did sit for a couple of years when owner (1) was diagnosed with cancer and stopped riding. Owner (2) didn't ride it much, a little too heavy for his liking. I've been riding it since Nov, '16 pretty constant.

I've never heard any noise from the pump in all of the time I've been riding the bike

 

What steps can I take at this juncture?

Thanks in advance,

Ed

Edited by MB_ED
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When the lights are flashing alternately right from the start, the ABS2 is already in an error condition and it will not perform a self-test. If you can clear the fault code, the next time the bike is turned on, the lights should be flashing together. Then, when you roll off, the ABS should self-test and either the lights go out and it is functioning normally or the lights start alternating and you want to read the error code.

 

If you truly have a code 7 ABS control unit error, then I would send the unit off to Module Master for a repair. They do repair the ABS2 units and warranty the repair. Your other option would be a used ABS2 unit but that is likely as expensive or more than the cost of the repair.

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Hello all,

I'll try to give as many details as possible. 1995 R1100RS I borrowed this bike in May of 2016 for a trip to NC. The ABS lights would blink alternately after engine start, I could hit the ABS button on the left dash and stop them for a bit, until they started again. I put a piece of tape over the lights so I didn't have to look at them while on my trip. The brakes seemed to be working fine as conventional brakes and I mentioned it

to the guy that owned it at the time.

A few months later (Nov 16) this bike becomes mine, complete with alternating ABS lights. I look around on the interwebs, read all kinds of information about low voltage and it's probably my battery. I charge and check the battery, it's good. I notice the starter seems to be having a hard time turning the engine until one day it took a crap so I replaced it thinking maybe that was the starter was the reason for the ABS lights. NOPE! still doing the same thing.

Now I try to clear any faults in the ABS and find out that 2 owners ago he had done the "low voltage modification" as described here http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/ABS-II_low_voltage_modification/index.shtml

Since I knew this owner as well, I wasn't concerned about the quality of the modification. He did it by the numbers and it worked for him. This was done in August of 2010 at 70,000 miles. It was working until about 75,000 miles. Since it's had the mod any code reading or clearing must be done with the engine running.

 

I've gotten around to reading the code and it's #7. I can't clear it, it will not go away. The relay for the mod clicks right after start up ~1000-1100 RPM the lights alternate until I hit the button then the bottom light stays lit. The code says ABS control unit. I've found no diagnostics so I'm lost at this point.

 

The bike did sit for a couple of years when owner (1) was diagnosed with cancer and stopped riding. Owner (2) didn't ride it much, a little too heavy for his liking. I've been riding it since Nov, '16 pretty constant.

I've never heard any noise from the pump in all of the time I've been riding the bike

 

What steps can I take at this juncture?

Thanks in advance,

Ed

 

Morning Ed

 

Have you tried re-setting the ABS?--

 

 

Find the diagnostic connector (located under the seat).

 

Insert one end of a wire into the middle socket of this connector.

 

Ground the other end of that wire to a (clean) metal part of frame or good ground area (make sure it stays grounded).

 

Turn on ignition. You should now see the warning lights flash alternately.

 

Hold ABS button down for about 8 seconds. The bottom ABS light will stay on, and the top one should be off.

 

Release the ABS button. If you have successfully reset the ABS, both ABS lights will come on. If you have failed to hold button for 8 seconds , or your ground is not good, then the top ABS light will stay off.

 

You will have to either figure out how to do the re-set with your engine-running ABS modification, or temporarily by-pass the ABS modification to do the ABS re-set.

 

As far as troubleshooting procedures?-- There really isn't much as the diagnostic output on the old ABS-2 system is very limited.

 

If the re-set doesn't work & you want to do some testing then you might verify that the ABS module power relay (under the side cover on the ABS module) is working & switching 12v B+ when it's energized (just clicking only tells you it is energizing not that it is REALLY working)-- I have seen a number relay failures on older bikes that have been parked for a long time.

 

You might also verify that the ABS modification is still working as that might have a broken wire, high resistance in a circuit, or relay failure.

 

If you can somehow track the failure to the ABS modulator itself (eliminate all the external electrical possibilities) then you are possibly dealing with a stuck internal piston or a motor issue. Sometimes a stuck piston can be freed up with a rubber mallet & rapping on the outside of the ABS modulator or by triggering a power on/off/on/off/on on the green wire into the ABS module while riding on a very rough washboard road.

 

Otherwise your options are to remove the ABS system & revert the bike to non-ABS brakes, or buy a good working used ABS modulator, or send your modulator out for repair, or remove your modulator & take it apart & see if you can find & repair the problem.

 

 

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Michael, thank you for the reply, I have never seen the lights flash together since owning the bike.

 

DR, Yes sir I have tried resetting the ABS with engine running and not running with no success. I will try again though. I had thought about a stuck piston in the modulator. I'll look at the power relay relay as well as check the wires for the modification when I get back to the shop. Love the bike, been riding for many years and have never had ABS so it's not like I feel I need it but if it's on the bike I'd like it to work.

 

Thanks guys!!

Ed

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Michael, thank you for the reply, I have never seen the lights flash together since owning the bike.

 

DR, Yes sir I have tried resetting the ABS with engine running and not running with no success. I will try again though. I had thought about a stuck piston in the modulator. I'll look at the power relay relay as well as check the wires for the modification when I get back to the shop. Love the bike, been riding for many years and have never had ABS so it's not like I feel I need it but if it's on the bike I'd like it to work.

 

Thanks guys!!

Ed

 

Morning Ed

 

A lot of riders have removed the old antique ABS-2 system rather than spend the time & money trying to repair it. The BMW 1100 bikes actually have great brakes with the ABS removed & in some cases better brakes as the slow cycling ABS-2 systems have a habit of suddenly & unexpectedly releasing the brakes during a hard stop on a dry but rough road surface.

 

 

 

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Thanks DR, the bike has been a pleasure to ride as it is. I've had no issues, it's as if the ABS doesn't exist. (which I suppose technically it doesn't) It's still cold and crappy outside, I'll check this, check that, clean it up a little here and there and be ready for warmer weather. I just did a valve adjustment, tires and oil change. I see some of the harness looms are breaking away so I'll get the harness protected with new loom. I see non-factory wires that previous owners have wire tied in. I want to check them, see where they go, do they have power etc. Basically just clean everything up.

 

I appreciate the advise and knowledge from the members here

 

Ed

 

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Makes me wonder whether you might be better off just doing an ABS-Ectomy.

 

You mightn't yet have heard the news that there's a comparatively-new vodeodi on the Toob made by the experienced and conscientious but long-winded expert James from his Superbikesurgery in Gloucester, UK.

 

Clearly he's working on a much later bike than yours, but it gives you all the low-down.

 

His film is a truly commendable effort showing how to get rid of the pesky and troublesome BMW Motorrad ABS facility, of any vintage, without losing your brake lighting or speedo.

 

 

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Makes me wonder whether you might be better off just doing an ABS-Ectomy.

 

You mightn't yet have heard the news that there's a comparatively-new vodeodi on the Toob made by the experienced and conscientious but long-winded expert James from his Superbikesurgery in Gloucester, UK.

 

Clearly he's working on a much later bike than yours, but it gives you all the low-down.

 

His film is a truly commendable effort showing how to get rid of the pesky and troublesome BMW Motorrad ABS facility, of any vintage, without losing your brake lighting or speedo.

 

 

 

Afternoon Alan

 

I guess I don't understand the reference to that video as that is for the much later BMW I-ABS systems. Almost ALL of the info in that video is not usable & useless on Ed's 1995 1100RS as the brake lights do not go through the ABS controller on the 1100 ABS-ll systems, the brake lines attach in a completely manner, the brake switches operate differently, even the controller mounting is different. Trying to use that video to do an 1100 ABS-ll system will confuse & frustrate way more than it could ever help.

 

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Alan thank you for the link to this video. I did watch the entire video even though DR already stated that my bike is completely different, which it is. I'm always trying to learn. I learned a few things from that video which I'll probably forget since I don't have that bike but something will stick with me that I'll be able to reference at a later date.

 

DR has already suggested I might remove the ABS from my bike. I might and I may just remove the bulbs and continue to ride. It seems to be completely inop and I'm not sure how much weight savings there would be by removing it so for now I'll let it be.

 

Thanks again,

Ed

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Hope that vodeodi by James at least gave you an idea of what's involved, Ed, even though as I said originally, and as our guru DirtRider pointed out, your ABS is rather different on the 1100. One of the benefits of removing the installation is that it gives you around 12 pounds of a weight saving, which is important as that weight is high up in the vehicle.

 

I had two consecutive 1100S models, both bought new from the then-superb dealer Robinson's of Rochdale in Lancashire; a red non-ABS year '97 and then a yellow ABS year '99, which I crated to Spain when we moved here 17 years ago and should never have subsequently sold. I foolishly thought shortly afterwards that the bike was too heavy for my advanced years, which of course it wasn't when seen in context.

 

I put about 20K kilometers on it though, and never had any trouble with the ABS pump, mainly coz I'm overly careful about fluid cleanliness, brakes and clutch. Any neglect of the clutch fluid in particular can lead to big trouble with the single-plate hydraulically-operated clutch on these machines.

 

In the north-western UK's generally damp, heavy atmosphere - that's why there's such a wealth of lovely greenery in the landscape, and why the famous adage was coined in the 19th century: "Britain's bread hangs by Lancashire's thread", coz the spun cotton thread was wet and so didn't snap - DOT4 fluid in any vehicle sucks up moisture like a super-sponge, so annual blow-throughs and replacement with new stuff is absolutely mandatory, as is fitting a proper SpeedBleeder on the end of the hose hidden behind the helmet lock..

 

BMW_R1100_S_-_Alan_in_2003.jpg

 

AL in s.e. Spain

 

Edited by Alan Sykes
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Hope that vodeodi by James at least gave you an idea of what's involved, Ed, even though as I said originally, and as our guru DirtRider pointed out, your ABS is rather different on the 1100. One of the benefits of removing the installation is that it gives you around 12 pounds of a weight saving, which is important as that weight is high up in the vehicle.

 

I had two consecutive 1100S models, both bought new from the then-superb dealer Robinson's of Rochdale in Lancashire; a red non-ABS year '97 and then a yellow ABS year '99, which I crated to Spain when we moved here 17 years ago and should never have subsequently sold. I foolishly thought shortly afterwards that the bike was too heavy for my advanced years, which of course it wasn't when seen in context.

 

I put about 20K kilometers on it though, and never had any trouble with the ABS pump, mainly coz I'm overly careful about fluid cleanliness, brakes and clutch. Any neglect of the clutch fluid in particular can lead to big trouble with the single-plate hydraulically-operated clutch on these machines.

 

In the north-western UK's generally damp, heavy atmosphere - that's why there's such a wealth of lovely greenery in the landscape, and why the famous adage was coined in the 19th century: "Britain's bread hangs by Lancashire's thread", coz the spun cotton thread was wet and so didn't snap - DOT4 fluid in any vehicle sucks up moisture like a super-sponge, so annual blow-throughs and replacement with new stuff is absolutely mandatory, as is fitting a proper SpeedBleeder on the end of the hose hidden behind the helmet lock..

 

 

Morning Alan

 

No hidden hose behind the helmet lock on ED's 1100RS bike as it has a cable operated clutch.

 

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  • 5 years later...

 I have been struggling his #8 code for 2 years.

 

First , reset the ECU repair ir. For some reasons, the symptom could occur frequently in winter.

 

This winer , code #8 turns on every engine start.

 

Finally, I repair it as follows:

1) Clean those all terminals, on gap sensors, ECU. Terminal corrosion remover is effective.

2) Adjust the gap between the gap sensor and rotor to 0.42-0.45mm, while the STD is  0.45-0.55mm

 

I have no error code on continuous 5 driving cycles.

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3 hours ago, Junsaito said:

 I have been struggling his #8 code for 2 years.

 

First , reset the ECU repair ir. For some reasons, the symptom could occur frequently in winter.

 

This winer , code #8 turns on every engine start.

 

Finally, I repair it as follows:

1) Clean those all terminals, on gap sensors, ECU. Terminal corrosion remover is effective.

2) Adjust the gap between the gap sensor and rotor to 0.42-0.45mm, while the STD is  0.45-0.55mm

 

I have no error code on continuous 5 driving cycles.

 

Morning  Junsaito

 

This thread dates back to 2018?

 

Your code 8 is an entirely different problem than Ed's code 7, his code 7 is pointing to an ABS  module issue & your code 8 is pointing to a wheel speed sensor issue. The code 8 typically doesn't show up until after ride away. 

 

 

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I vote for removal.  I have been thinking about doing this even though my R1100 has no ABS issues, yet.  Not a big weight improvement deal but on my '04 R1150RT I could feel a slight reduction in top heaviness.  I just can't see ABS on a motorcycle or a lot of stuff like traction control and on and on.  Kind of like automobiles and their never ending whistles and ding dongs. 

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i have to be honest  the much maligned ABS on my 1100 has saved my arse at least once on a gravelly road. Tt was cheap enough to get a replacement pump when mine died with code 7 a couple of hundred well spent imho.  But i am one of those people who want everything to work if it is on the bike. if it is just a wheel sensor, they are cheap enough and pretty easy to fit too.

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