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Driveway advice.


Bud

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Our driveway was poured all at once. When it had cured, a gas powered saw was used to cut expansion joints. These were very small when cut, but, as the ground settled and moved they are now at least 3/4" wide. I'm wondering if they should be filled to prevent water entering and freezing/thawing or if I should just let them alone?

 

Thoughts?

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Since you get a freeze thaw cycle where you are I would look in to filling them. If you do it right you can have some tar snakes in your driveway to practice on.

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John Ranalletta

Bud, I use the sakrete polyurethane for sidewalk sealing.

 

It's flowable, so you put a small piece of plastic at the end of the crack so it doesn't flow out. Dries in a couple of days. Best to do when somewhat warm. Don't get it where you don't want it. Tape along the edges of the crack when filling, especially if you don't have a stead hand. Ask me how I know.

 

http://www.sakrete.com/products/polyurethane-self-leveling-sealant

 

 

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Bud,

There is really nothing you can do to keep water out of your sub grade. Filling those cracks will be mostly cosmetic. And the cracks will reappear anyway in short order.

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Interesting. On the linked website, I note in the picture with the old wood removed you can see the light rebar connecting the slabs. I assume one would also cut the rebar? I would probably needs a 55 gallon drum of any liquid filler :(

Edited by workin' them angels
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I've used SecaFlex. Comes in tube. The stuff is very gooey but will last forever and never gets hard. We we use it in the marine industry for bedding through hull fittings.

GT

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They are not cracks. They are joints cut with a saw to allow the concrete to move without cracking.

 

Bud,

Same difference. Your concrete guy partial-depth sawed it the next morning (probably about every 15' in each direction) to make it crack in that location. And not really for movement, but for shrinkage as the water hydrates off. Concrete slabs crack every 15' or so regardless of if you saw it. You have "straight" cracks.

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I have also used SikaFlex CSL from Home Depot. This comes in two tube sizes depending on which size caulk gun you have or want to purchase. This is self leveling and flows pretty easy. If the cracks are very deep I would suggest using the back rod that can also be purchased at Home Depot, I believe that is comes in various diameters depending on the width of your crack / expansion joint. Have used this several times on driveways, stays flexible after it cures.

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They are not cracks. They are joints cut with a saw to allow the concrete to move without cracking.

 

Bud,

Same difference. Your concrete guy partial-depth sawed it the next morning (probably about every 15' in each direction) to make it crack in that location. And not really for movement, but for shrinkage as the water hydrates off. Concrete slabs crack every 15' or so regardless of if you saw it. You have "straight" cracks.

 

Nah, he sawed it all the way thru. :grin: That is so the weeds could immediately start growing in the cut. :dopeslap: So concrete guys around here put in some tar soaked material between slabs so they don't have to come back and cut it later.

 

 

Edited by Bud
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