Integral Brake / Dry Clutch

I've had my 04 RT for 2 years now. I bought it on Super Bowl Sunday 2016. The first summer i rode it extensively but for some reason, last summer, I hardly rode it at all. In fact, I was half-heartedly trying to sell it in early fall. Suddenly, without explanation, I got excited about riding it again. A couple of weeks ago on a warm weekend, I took it out for an hour or so and was so happy that my attempt to sell it had failed! Anyway, one of the things that has always struck me as odd about the 04 RT is the Integral ABS and the dry clutch -could you have made parking lots more terrifying, BMW?!

I owned a '14 Triumph Tiger before the RT and it was so easy to drag the brake and feather the clutch. Slo-Mo control was effortless. It is my understanding that 3rd Generation Integral ABS (ABS III?) is fully linked as opposed to ABS II which was only linked when applying the front brake lever. (Although, some guy named "Joe" on the LT forum (back on 2006) said that light pressure on the foot brake on ABS III would only apply the rear brake.)

AND a dry clutch?! C'mon man! My Owner's Manual says, "Vary your speed only by using the throttle in a suitable gear, not by slipping the clutch." Tell that to the instructor at my motorcycle riding clinic. No way in hell can I turn around in that box without slipping the clutch!

What have I done in my 2 years/6k miles of ownership? I haven't been dragging the brake but there has been plenty of clutch slipping while performing slow speed maneuvers! How do you manage slow speed maneuvering?

I've had my 04 RT for 2 years now. I bought it on Super Bowl Sunday 2016. The first summer i rode it extensively but for some reason, last summer, I hardly rode it at all. In fact, I was half-heartedly trying to sell it in early fall. Suddenly, without explanation, I got excited about riding it again. A couple of weeks ago on a warm weekend, I took it out for an hour or so and was so happy that my attempt to sell it had failed! Anyway, one of the things that has always struck me as odd about the 04 RT is the Integral ABS and the dry clutch -could you have made parking lots more terrifying, BMW?!

 

I owned a '14 Triumph Tiger before the RT and it was so easy to drag the brake and feather the clutch. Slo-Mo control was effortless. It is my understanding that 3rd Generation Integral ABS (ABS III?) is fully linked as opposed to ABS II which was only linked when applying the front brake lever. (Although, some guy named "Joe" on the LT forum (back on 2006) said that light pressure on the foot brake on ABS III would only apply the rear brake.)

 

AND a dry clutch?! C'mon man! My Owner's Manual says, "Vary your speed only by using the throttle in a suitable gear, not by slipping the clutch." Tell that to the instructor at my motorcycle riding clinic. No way in hell can I turn around in that box without slipping the clutch!

 

What have I done in my 2 years/6k miles of ownership? I haven't been dragging the brake but there has been plenty of clutch slipping while performing slow speed maneuvers! How do you manage slow speed maneuvering?

Afternoon Craft

How do I manage slow speed maneuvering?-- pretty easy & effortlessly.

After you get lots of seat time on the BMW dry clutch it will effortlessly to do parking lot maneuvers, tight U turns, & other slow tight work.

Just go watch a police bike rodeo or competent riding instructor dance an the old BMW oil head around.

A couple of secrets to tight on-the-lock turns with the old oilheads-- First learn low speed cross control as that REALLY helps the old top heavy bikes at low speed maneuvers, then work on body weight position as that is more low speed help.

Also, you can use the rear brake lightly on the old I-ABS linked brakes for low speed control as at low input pressures the rear brake pedal adds more rear than it does to the front (you will still get some front braking but it still really helps the low speed tight stuff)

You can also slip the dry clutch a little, just do it at a low engine RPM so the clutch doesn't have to handle as much much torque & heat. (you can actually slip the BMW dry clutch quite a bit if you use the right technique to do so). Instead of just holding the clutch in the gray zone & revving the engine (like a wet clutch) use a pulsing technique or keep the slip zone moving (ie keep quickly pulsing the clutch lever to continually run the clutch into & out of the slip zone, DON'T hold it steady in the gray zone )-- Once you figure this out it REALLY helps low speed control & preserves the clutch.

The next step is learning to lightly pulse the rear brake pedal opposite of the clutch friction point (again really helps new BMW boxer I-ABS brake system riders in the low speed control area).

Then, finally, after proficient with the above learn to use body position, cross control, braking control, lane position, as you lean into & out of the tight turn, then ride the tight turn fast enough to not need to slip the clutch except a little on exit.

Just go watch a police bike rodeo...

I thought the police bikes used a special unlinked system.

First learn low speed cross control...

What is this technique?

Instead of just holding the clutch in the gray zone & revving the engine (like a wet clutch) use a pulsing technique or keep the slip zone moving (ie keep quickly pulsing the clutch lever to continually run the clutch into & out of the slip zone, DON'T hold it steady in the gray zone )-- Once you figure this out it REALLY helps low speed control & preserves the clutch.

This has always been my interpretation of slipping a clutch; throttle steady and manipulate motion by varying the clutch, a technique that BMW (per the Owner's Manual) seems to frown upon unless they think that slipping the clutch means varying the throttle while the clutch remains constantly in the "gray" zone.

The later 1150RT (like yours) is a delight to ride so long as you are sensitive. For low speed turns, only use the rear brake (gently) if you are heavy handed (footed), the full force of the servo will kick in. if you are sensitive, so too, will be the brakes. I prefer the dry clutch of my 1150 to the wet clutch of my 1200 on all but extreme take offs (up steep hills with lots of slipping).

If you want to get the best out of the braking system, perform a servoectomy and then the brakes are wonderful.

Some careful practice and you will get on top of this. However, don't go overboard on this car park training. Some many people get caught up with it and for 99.9% of us, we don't need to prove we can do feet up maneuvers at less than walking speed. If its a problem, just put your feet down. Unless you are a trials rider, it has less merit than some people try to exhort.

Morning Craft

Just go watch a police bike rodeo...

I thought the police bikes used a special unlinked system.--This wasn't about the brakes it was about watching how smoothly & effortlessly experienced riders can finesse a large top heavy motorcycle around tight corners. Those very same riders will do the same using their personal linked brake dry clutch BMW's

 

First learn low speed cross control...

What is this technique?-- In a nutshell it is using opposite body position (outside-of-turn body weighting) to force the motorcycle to lean more than it normally would if sitting upright or leaning to the inside of the turn). To go faster around a high speed curve a good rider moves their weight to the inside (kiss the inside mirror) to allow the bike to stand up straighter & have less lean for the same speed & entry)-- To go real slow around a very tight slow corner or U turn you do the opposite & weight outside of the bike as that forces the bike to lean MORE so tightens the line as well as counterbalances the top heavy leaning mass.

 

Instead of just holding the clutch in the gray zone & revving the engine (like a wet clutch) use a pulsing technique or keep the slip zone moving (ie keep quickly pulsing the clutch lever to continually run the clutch into & out of the slip zone, DON'T hold it steady in the gray zone )-- Once you figure this out it REALLY helps low speed control & preserves the clutch.

This has always been my interpretation of slipping a clutch; throttle steady and manipulate motion by varying the clutch, a technique that BMW (per the Owner's Manual) seems to frown upon unless they think that slipping the clutch means varying the throttle while the clutch remains constantly in the "gray" zone.--I don't think you fully comprehend what I said. It sounds like you are still thinking of holding the clutch in the gray zone with raised engine RPM's. I am talking about lower RPM's (at idle or just above idle) then working the clutch just into the gray zone (for a second or less) then quickly back to fully released then quickly back to partially engaged then back to disengaged again (think of quickly popping the clutch into partial engaged then quickly back to fully released continually as you modulate the rear brake pedal to keep some tension on the drivetrain & control motorcycle speed). It's kind of like a dance with a good dance partner. (quick little clutch in/out, then between the clutch engagements a little quick rear brake pedal apply, then just a "little" throttle & another quick clutch in/out --repeat as necessary to get around the U turn or tight corner. Oh-- and don't forget the full head turn to look where you want the bike to end up next.

 

Added: a good place to practice is a large empty parking lot with painted parking spaces. Most painted-space parking lots use a standard 9' (or some are 10') wide parking space.

With a little practice you should be able enter a parking space just outside of one painted line then make a tight U turn & come back just outside the 2nd line over (that should be around 20' or slightly over.

With a little more practice you should be able to ride in on one line then make a U turn & return just inside the 2nd line over.

When you are well practiced you should be able to ride in just to the inside of one line then make a U turn & come back just inside the 2nd line over.

Once you learn it then don't lose it so use every parking lot, driveway, missed turn, etc to keep your tight turn turning skills refreshed.

If you want to get the best out of the braking system, perform a servoectomy and then the brakes are wonderful.

Oh no... I'd rather learn how to use the brakes in slo-mo riding than give up ABS!

D.R.

Thank you so much for the detailed explanations! I will practice both!

Hi Craft - as usual, DirtRider's tips are spot-on, but here's a US video that should illustrate for you exactly what he's on about...

It's a technique that's very-well-worth finessing.

Thankfully, near me is a very large kiddie-playground whose surface is compacted crumbed-rubber. Perfect for protecting kiddies when they fall off a swing, and for dropping your precious bike onto !

Al in s.e. Spain

Very nice! Thanks, Alan.