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Alarm Plug Wiring Diagram? Switched power source


Indy Dave

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What the Snow falling here and there, it seems like as good a time as any to add a few items and clean up many years of wiring. Towards that end, I was hoping to use the bike alarm plug as a new trigger for switched power on my 06 R1200 RT.

 

My sources tell me the Green and White wire is switched. Hmm . . I get no reading from that wire.

 

I do find switched power - at other wires in the plug - but wonder if they shut down once the bikes moves or starts. The white/yellow wire seems to be switched? Turning off the ignition maintains power to the wire for about a minute - like some other switched sources.

 

Anyone have a diagram that identifies the wires tot he alarm plug or know what the various wires might do on a bike without the alarm? OR better yet, anyone have a degree in Quantum Electronics :whistle::wave:

 

alarm%20plug.jpg

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Evening Dave

 

I have a wiring diagram for what it's worth.

 

About the only wire going into the alarm module that is (stand alone) usable is the big red wire as that is battery + 12v. RDC & DWA are in the same module on the alarm equipped bikes.

 

The key-on control is controlled through & by the ZFE (central chassis) module & the main communication in & out is through the CanBus wiring.

 

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EDIT: Just noticed the colors on your plug do not match mine, but do match the color codes for the rear seat heater!!

 

The green/white wire works well to power my Skene P3 lights. Turns on/off immediately with the ignition. It's one option given in the Skene installation instructions.. No alarm on my bike.

39243829765_44ae1d3950_z.jpg

There is also a switched red/green wire under the seat that is intended to be used with the rear accessory power socket, but it may stay on for a short time after you shut down the bike. It's visible above on the right with the brown ground wire.

 

 

If you happen to be installing a Skene controller, there is a niche behind the tail light that seems to be designed to hold it.

 

39243800535_ebf0dab5b1_z.jpg

 

 

Edited by lkraus
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Good Evening Larry and DT - Thanks for the help and pictures

 

Hmm - yes, I'd guess I have the rear seat heat plug - my bike has neither rear heat or alarm. Soo.. I guess the question is - is the white/yellow wire OK for my new fuze block 12v trigger - OR - I may need a bit of a hint, as following my treasure map led me to the wrong plug! :dopeslap:

 

I did install the Skene P3's and they work wonderfully - I have the Skene switched trigger going to a switched pot on my fuze block. I'm working on the bike from rear to front and I'd previously tapped into a switched 12v the previous owner had for lights I non longer have. The wire runs up front, but I'm not sure where. I'm wanting to simplify the wiring and also use all of my own connections so I know what is what and where.

 

I like where you have the Skene module!

 

DT: I do not have an alarm module. But I also don't have a red wire at the alarm plug. I think as Larry has figured out :thumbsup:, I'm at the wrong plug! Will the yellow/white wire work - it's switched?

 

Hey - I'm living up to my reputation of making something easy into a bit of a cluster! :ohboy::whistle:

 

 

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Being cautious, I don't think I'd try the yellow/white. At least, I've never heard of it being used to power or trigger anything extra. The diagram I have seems to show it being used to select the rear seat heat level. A switch connects the yellow/white or blue/white to ground to tell the ZFE how much power to send to the resistive heating element via the green/white wire and ground.

 

A common location to tap into a switched power lead is the at the back of the headlight. A trigger wire can tap into the parking light, using the blue/white wire at the back of the headlight (might be blue/gray?). Or maybe use that green/white alarm wire.

Edited by lkraus
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Welp -

 

Please rest assured that I did look for other plugs taped to the frame before I selected the seat warmer plug. When Larry posted his pics, the first picture provided me the shape to look for. I headed back out to the garage - 'this will be easy, I have all of the body panels off', Recheck and re-look. . . 5 mins later I start to explore the rear aux plug wiring and I uncover the alarm plug! I have the BMW Aux Brake/tail light that substitutes some wiring at the Aux plug and I think when I did that way back when, I must have relocated the alarm plug when I was finished and taped and wire tied the wire cluster back there.

 

SO . . in case anyone in the future can't find their plug - it's on the exhaust side tucked along the frame right next to the rear Aux plug.

 

20180207_224218.jpg

Edited by workin' them angels
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Morning Larry

 

Hmm - yes, I'd guess I have the rear seat heat plug - my bike has neither rear heat or alarm. Soo.. I guess the question is - is the white/yellow wire OK for my new fuze block 12v trigger - OR - I may need a bit of a hint, as following my treasure map led me to the wrong plug! --No, that wire is part of the hi/low switch circuit.

 

I did install the Skene P3's and they work wonderfully - I have the Skene switched trigger going to a switched pot on my fuze block. I'm working on the bike from rear to front and I'd previously tapped into a switched 12v the previous owner had for lights I non longer have. The wire runs up front, but I'm not sure where. I'm wanting to simplify the wiring and also use all of my own connections so I know what is what and where.--Personally I would find where this wires goes up front as it is working now then tidy up the front connection (probably goes to low beam or side light)

 

 

DR: I do not have an alarm module. But I also don't have a red wire at the alarm plug. I think as Larry has figured out :thumbsup:, I'm at the wrong plug! Will the yellow/white wire work - it's switched? -- I'm not even sure the 2006 1200RT had an alarm offering in the US, but it is basically the same module as the tire pressure monitor module. I did see your picture but assumed that you were trying to (asking about) moving that wire over to the alarm wire harness.

 

 

In looking at your original picture I see puncture marks on the wire pig tail wire insulation. Those should be repaired (silicone, or liquid tape, or something).

 

Another place to look for 12v (ignition-switch-on) is at the starter relay (just below the diagnostic connector) --I believe it is the yellow black wire but test it first.

 

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Good Morning Dirtrider. Ahh - The Bike Wiring . . . It's complicated. And made more so by the (increasingly) ineptness of Yours Truly. [Cue dream sequence music and fuzzy video of a 20 - 30 year younger me (who was really Workin' Them Angels hard back then) who would have ripped through this entire project in a hour with half my brain somewhere else . . .] But I digress. . . And yes, Nowadays I need that other half of the brain but it seems to have gone South, and not just for Winter - unless one is speaking metaphorically - and in that case, yes it's gone for Winter - having joined so many formerly useful skills who've fled without thoughts of returning.

 

One of the reasons I'm wanting to tidy up the wiring and make better use of my fuze block (apart from being an anal SOB) is that one of the two accessory items that previous owner installed (piaa 1200s) became flaky and then quit. Traced wires, replaced relay - never found the issue. The only areas of wiring I couldn't get to were concealed and secured under the tank. I've resisted removing the tank.

 

Towards your point of using the switched power that works . . .I know, I know . . if it ain't broke . . but I want to head off the outside chance that the switched trigger might quit at some point, and not knowing for sure its origin . . .

 

The working other item the previous owner had installed was a horn, and that's where I'd previously tapped into the switched power (near the horn relay). So I believe the 12v switched is either coming from the original horn switched power or from the GPS harness - although I've not found a tap into that from the visible section of GPS harness.

 

I replaced the lights a few years ago with HIDs, so I have that configuration that all neatly tucked away and cleaned up and I don't want to mess with that if I don't need to and I don't recall seeing a tap in the harness.

 

The bottom line is: As long as I'm adding some items front and back, I want to simplify the over the years accumulated wiring additions/projects and have their origins and sources known to me and as accessible as possible in case I have an issue that needs attention out on the road. Now having sourced an accessible and traceable-switched 12v sourced trigger, I've terminated and labeled the old switched trigger wire and parked it in a location that I can access in the future if needed.

 

To your point about the punctures on a couple of the heat plug wires - good eye and yes. One thing the younger me would have ignored that the older me has covered with an assortment of dialectic grease, liquid tape, stretch rubber tape and even factory-like black cloth tape.

 

And I know I speak for many, thanks for your insight and help!

 

 

 

 

Edited by workin' them angels
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Afternoon Dave

 

You can (somewhat) run a new wire under the fuel tank without removing or lifting it.

 

Just get a stiff wire or thin straightened coat hanger, then bend one end over back on itself to form a flat round end (friendly non damaging end).

 

You can push (work wiggle etc) that wire from rear to front along the L/H side of the fuel tank then grab it from the front.

 

Now tape your power wire to that pushed through stiff wire & pull it back through.

 

I usually run the power wire inside small diameter split convoluted wire covering to protect it (it will not interferer with anything on the L/H side of tank). It will stay that way until next tank removal & at that point you can zip tie it in place.

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Good afternoon MR DR!

 

Yes, I have no problem running new wires under the tank. I just couldn't get the previous failed harness out from under it - like Rapunzel's hair must have been - that old harness is firmly attached to something under the tank!

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Wiring, aka rats nest. Just jump into Mr. Peebody's Way Back Machine, dial up the year all the previous wiring

was done and go from there. :rofl:

Pull the tank and do a brake flush too or is tank full?? Plan ahead.. :wave:

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Excellent idea Sherman!! :spittake: And you called it the tank is full :old: . . . waiting to head down to GA next week. :wave:

 

I'm sure I'll need a companion project when I get back to go along with pulling the driveshaft to service . . . :tongue::stir:

 

 

mr-peabody-sherman-1960s.jpg

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Dennis Andress

The round thing on the rear fender is for connecting diagnostic equipment. I found switched and unswitched power on the back of it. I had a couple of high-end AMP splices left over from my Avionics days which made it easy to splice two wires to one.

 

i-78wxrPG-X2.jpg

 

 

This connector is for the BMW GPS. It can be found capped and stowed under the tank on the left side.

 

i-rW9J2HV-X2.jpg

 

 

The white connector with yellow wires mates to it. It is a BMW part. Amazon has it for around $20. There are three wires, ground, switched on at engine start, and switched on with the key (this one also stays on for 30 seconds after turning the key off.)

 

i-jN3FzXh-X2.jpg

 

I'll use the switched power from the round thing for my radar detector. Unswitched power will drive a USB charger (Sena, Bluetooth earbuds, Bluetooth Xmiter for the radar detector). The "on with engine start" power from the GPS plug will go to the Hyper Lights on the front forks.

 

 

Feel free to drop by if you'd like some help.

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This connector is for the BMW GPS. It can be found capped and stowed under the tank on the left side.

 

i-rW9J2HV-X2.jpg

 

 

The white connector with yellow wires mates to it. It is a BMW part. Amazon has it for around $20. There are three wires, ground, switched on at engine start, and switched on with the key (this one also stays on for 30 seconds after turning the key off.)

 

Dennis,

 

One of the switched wires on the GPS plug is actually a vehicle speed signal. It may not be suitable for controlling other accessories.

 

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Dennis Andress

 

One of the switched wires on the GPS plug is actually a vehicle speed signal. It may not be suitable for controlling other accessories.

 

 

Oh! Thanks. I've had the bike apart since late November and am no where close to being able to start the engine. So I assumed...

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