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ABS problem 04 R1150RT


pixturethis

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I was bleeding the abs to wheels last week with a low battery and now with a new freshly charged battery, when I turn on the key I get the abs light blinking fast and the brake light is on. I have disconnected the brake levers to make sure it wasn't a bad switch. I'm hoping it just needs to be started, to get ride of the ABS light. I'm I right in my thinking?

I'm new to the BMW world, and none of my other bikes have ABS. I did get the fluid changes in the ABS unit and the brake reservoirs.

Thanks Marc

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A fast blinking brake light on ignition on along with the fact that you brake light is staying on is an indication that a brake switch is always on. It could be the foot brake and well as the hand brake. On my 04 RT is has always been the hand brake. I could usually push the lever away from the handlebar and it would self correct. Just for my information I slightly pressed the foot brake while turning on the ignition and I got the same results. Is your servo also continuously running when you turn the ignition on? It should be since your brake light is on.

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I just tried pulling the front brake out when turn on the key, problem fixed, thank you so much, I was scared I did something wrong and did not want to buy a new ABS unit.

Crazy how ABS works.

Thanks again Marc.

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I'm glad I was able to help. What is actually going on is that the ABS unit cannot go thru its self test if the brake switches are depressed enough to make the brake light come on. The fast blinking light indicates self test unable to complete.

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I see, so what do you do if you have to start the bike on a hill, can it do the self test after you start rolling?

 

Morning pixturethis

 

It will straighten itself out after the bike starts rolling off with no brakes applied.

 

Or your above " I have disconnected the brake levers to make sure it wasn't a bad switch" -- When diagnosing your BMW I-ABS brake system you need to keep in mind that the brake switches work in reverse logic to most automobile & motorcycle brake switches as the switches are N/C & go OPEN when you pull the lever or push the brake pedal.

 

 

 

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Thanks, makes a lot more sense now, I'm just glad it's working, only waiting on a RH fairing and some maintance I have to finish up, then take her out for a ride.

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So I have the bike running, nice riding bike I will add. But I still have ABS problems. First off I have to have the front brake lever set to 4 and hold it out before I turn on the key for it to go into selffest. Then it works after I start to roll the light goes off and ABS works. After that the brake light stays on after using the brakes. I did change the fluid in the front end dear ABS unit, then changed the fluid in the reservoirs. I did not get to bleed them by the 6mm bleed ports, I didn't have a 6mm hora and 6mm wrench that would fit. So I pulled the fluid out by syringe only to the bottom, and filled with new fluid.

Marc

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So I have the bike running, nice riding bike I will add. But I still have ABS problems. First off I have to have the front brake lever set to 4 and hold it out before I turn on the key for it to go into selffest. Then it works after I start to roll the light goes off and ABS works. After that the brake light stays on after using the brakes. I did change the fluid in the front end dear ABS unit, then changed the fluid in the reservoirs. I did not get to bleed them by the 6mm bleed ports, I didn't have a 6mm hora and 6mm wrench that would fit. So I pulled the fluid out by syringe only to the bottom, and filled with new fluid.

Marc

 

Afternoon Marc

 

On the front brake lever?-- That sounds like a switch issue. Most times you can access the front lever switch then bend the switches' little metal lever to allow the switch to work with normal lever movement.

 

You should plan on eventually bleeding the ABS control circuits as the ABS controllers are very expensive to replace.

 

lpk5wDZ.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by dirtrider
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So why don't we go over to dot 5 fluid, is it not better ? Last longer. Used wd40 on the switch, better, but still needs to be adjust, I'll work on it this week.

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So why don't we go over to dot 5 fluid, is it not better ? Last longer. Used wd40 on the switch, better, but still needs to be adjust, I'll work on it this week.

 

Afternoon pixturethis

 

DOT 5 is not compatible with some of the seals in the BMW I-ABS system but just as important DOT 5 is not a good choice for BMW type ABS systems as the fluid thickness slows the ABS response time.

 

 

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