oilhead1100s1150rt Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Hello All, I have never had the need to remove the tank completely. I have been able to slide it back and work around in the pst for service work. Anything difficult in removal? Looks like just clamping the lines and the electronic plug? Thanks, Dave Link to comment
AnotherLee Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 (edited) ...and the 2 vent lines. Remove the barbed connector from one side on one and from the other side on the other. Then there's no question of which line goes where on re-connection. And now would be a good time to add quick disconnects. It will make future tank removal much easier! Got mine at Beemerboneyard. *LINK* Edited February 25, 2018 by TheOtherLee Link to comment
oilhead1100s1150rt Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 All sounds good...thanks.... Link to comment
Tri750 Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 I have a factory service manual for your bike for sale. PM me if you like. Link to comment
tallman Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Get the quick release connections before you start. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Morning oilhead1100s1150rt Having a 2003 1150 engine motorcycle there is a good chance that your bike already has quick fuel line disconnects. I'm not 100% sure on the "S" bike but the 2003 1150RT's came from the factory with quick disconnects. Link to comment
Alan Sykes Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Dirt Rider is of course spot-on as usual. You bike already has QD connectors in the fuel out-and-back lines. Replace the male part of the outgoing QD with the metal version, 'cos the OEM plastic one snaps for fun. Remember, the outgoing fuel pressure from the in-tank pump is almost 3 bar. Enough to coat your clothes comprehensively in fuel if that male QD comes apart with the motor running. One of the members of another Beemer forum has listed all the eighteen separate processes needed to be carried out in order just to remove the tank from a boxer motorcycle. Who designed-in that then ? Fritz The Guy With Unlimited Time On His Hands ? Link to comment
oilhead1100s1150rt Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 Thanks All, yes the 1150 is fine with the disconnects. My original post was around the 1100s. Sorry for the confusion. Dave Link to comment
dirtrider Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Thanks All, yes the 1150 is fine with the disconnects. My original post was around the 1100s. Sorry for the confusion. Dave Afternoon Dave Your BMW 1100S has an 1150 engine. Link to comment
oilhead1100s1150rt Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 Afternoon DR, Understood, correction, .....I should have used the model number......my RT (2002) has the metal disconnects, my S (2003) does not appear to come through with them. Dave Link to comment
Lowndes Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Thanks All, yes the 1150 is fine with the disconnects. My original post was around the 1100s. Sorry for the confusion. Dave Afternoon Dave Your BMW 1100S has an 1150 engine. Mr. Dirt Rider, Is it an 1150 engine with 1100cc displacement?? Link to comment
dirtrider Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Evening Lowndes Yes, I should have said an 1150 style engine in my above post. Link to comment
SANTA Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 the r1100s were never fitted with the QD's. I would suggest first you buy some 5/16(or 8mm) fuel hose, as i recommend you cut the hose of near the fitting on the tank. the fuel lines are very thin and if you try and slide the tank back you will end up collapsing (folding) the line which can sometime in the future lead to failure. next the end of pressure line has a small brass (IIRC) furrell inside the plastic line, it has a purpose so remember to reinstall it before you push the new rubber fuel hose over the end its a real bitch of a job if you also have to go into the tank, sort of like fixing your zipper inside your riding suit with it on. mark the cover plate at one of the mounting bolts to ensure you get the pump back into the correct orientation. I assume that if you get this far into this endevour you will also check the hoses inside the tank and replace the filter and sock. Link to comment
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