quickshifter easy

Kind of interested in a no clutch speed shift device called Quickshifter Easy that sells for about $320 and will fit bikes like all R1100 models as well as most BMW K bikes. Installation of the Quickshifter can't be much more straight forward with no cable splicing required. If you go to www.twowheelobsession.com then on the drop down menu for videos select TwoWheelObsession and watch a most interesting high quality video of the device installation and test ride on a '14 FJR1300. One thing I wonder about is would such a device result in damage to the shifting dogs in a motorcycle transmission. The device doesn't work so good on down shifts but looks to be just the ticket for smooth effortless upshifts. Was thinking of installing it on my FJR but then started thinking about putting it on my beemer as well. I could buy just a cable assembly for the R1100RSL and use the same electronic package on both bikes.

What do ya think?

Kind of interested in a no clutch speed shift device called Quickshifter Easy that sells for about $320 and will fit bikes like all R1100 models as well as most BMW K bikes. Installation of the Quickshifter can't be much more straight forward with no cable splicing required. If you go to www.twowheelobsession.com then on the drop down menu for videos select TwoWheelObsession and watch a most interesting high quality video of the device installation and test ride on a '14 FJR1300. One thing I wonder about is would such a device result in damage to the shifting dogs in a motorcycle transmission. The device doesn't work so good on down shifts but looks to be just the ticket for smooth effortless upshifts. Was thinking of installing it on my FJR but then started thinking about putting it on my beemer as well. I could buy just a cable assembly for the R1100RSL and use the same electronic package on both bikes.

 

What do ya think?

Evening James

If set up correctly & the engine load is modulated at shift point then it should work. To me it seems like a lot of complexity for what you get. I upshift my BMW's 2-6 gears without the clutch a LOT & haven't found the need for something like that but I do use the clutch for down-shifting & high torque upshifts.

If it slides into the next gear easily with no grinding, crunching, or dragging then you shouldn't damage your shift dogs but if you can't get it set correctly for all shifts at all throttle settings & engine loads then you could damage your transmission.

My problem with clutch-less shifts is my hand/foot co-ordination is lacking and I don't trust myself. It's a good point you make about real world motorcycling where the load on the drivetrain is not a constant which would mean that in some cases a shift with a device like the Quickshifter would be perfect but maybe not always which could result in excessive wear over time. My worst nightmare would be a transmission issue especially if repair would involve splitting the cases as with a Japanese inline four.

Just get a new RT with clutch less shifting. It's awesome!

Wellll. $23K vs $320 for starters.

I'm not into what I call gizmo technology so my jury is really out on the Quickshifter Easy. I mean, I don't even own a cell phone or have satellite or cable TV even. The Quickshifter means I'll have to buy something like an Android track phone with bluetooth just to program the device. Oh, do have cable for high speed internet though.

But, but, repeated clutchless shifting on an 1100?

Oh, the humanity !

Or, take a CLASS course with Reg Pridmore......

He teaches very, very slight disengagement of the clutch, upshifting or down. It helps with the total "smoothness" approach.

My problem with clutch-less shifts is my hand/foot co-ordination is lacking and I don't trust myself. It's a good point you make about real world motorcycling where the load on the drivetrain is not a constant which would mean that in some cases a shift with a device like the Quickshifter would be perfect but maybe not always which could result in excessive wear over time. My worst nightmare would be a transmission issue especially if repair would involve splitting the cases as with a Japanese inline four.

Hi JamesW

For upshifting my 2006 R1200RT up from 2 through 6 I just give the shift lever a preload with my toe, then a "quick" off and on with the throttle and I'm smoothly into the next gear up. No harm done! I think!

Hope that may be of some interest to you.

Dave

Y'all know WAYYYYY more than me.....and if you say it's okay to shift without the clutch, I'll take your word for it. Myself, the only clutchless shifting I've ever done was on a motocross track. The thought of it makes me cringe.....but again, y'all know way more than me about these beasts.

Y'all know WAYYYYY more than me.....and if you say it's okay to shift without the clutch, I'll take your word for it. Myself, the only clutchless shifting I've ever done was on a motocross track. The thought of it makes me cringe.....but again, y'all know way more than me about these beasts.

Morning Butthead

It's not OK to shift without the clutch if done incorrectly. Doing it the old motocross way is the incorrect way on a BMW street bike.

Even the shifter preload way can eventually damage/wear the shift forks due to extra side load on the shift forks.

Hi James,

The Quickshifter Easy while intriguing for smooth up shifts avoiding helmet bumps when two up, but IMHO spending time developing good technique gets that done with money left over for other accessories. As others have said you can clutch-less up shift with some practice and I have done it on my '99RT with success. With the weight of the bike and the wide ratios on that thransmission I would not clutch-less downshift as it would only take a few poorly executed downshifts mess up the dog and slot edges. My guess is the gear ratios are more closely spaced on the FJR, but I think they are still too wide for reliable downshifts and it is still a pretty heavy bike with sticky tire planted on pavement. Not at all like doing it on a dirt bike and expensive bad outcomes are a real concern.

I would take a moment and research the partial clutch release shifting method as pointed out by RPG. This technique can really help with shift speed and smoothness and it doesn't cost you a dime, just some practice time. I started using this shifting technique myself a long time ago and it really helps executing smooths shifts on every bike I have owned.

If you go forward with this devise us know how it works out.

Hi Paul,

The FJR 5-speed has a fairly large ratio change from first to second kind of like the R1100 so this is the most difficult to shift smoothly. What I do is short shift from 1st to 2nd at just under 3K revs. The other gear changes aren't too bad. If I get a Quickshifter Easy I will only use it on the FJR. The 5-speeds are somewhat clunky with their straight cut gears much like the BMW. Shifting for me is kind of like golf as in some days I just can't do anything wrong and some days?? Wellllll...... I guess the new 6-speed FJRs with bevel cut gears, closer ratios, and slipper clutch are pretty nice but I'll keep my '10 gen2. Maybe someday the money bird will poo on my head and I'll get a new R1200RT. Won't hold my breath.

Hi Paul,

The FJR 5-speed has a fairly large ratio change from first to second kind of like the R1100 so this is the most difficult to shift smoothly. What I do is short shift from 1st to 2nd at just under 3K revs. The other gear changes aren't too bad. If I get a Quickshifter Easy I will only use it on the FJR. The 5-speeds are somewhat clunky with their straight cut gears much like the BMW. Shifting for me is kind of like golf as in some days I just can't do anything wrong and some days?? Wellllll...... I guess the new 6-speed FJRs with bevel cut gears, closer ratios, and slipper clutch are pretty nice but I'll keep my '10 gen2. Maybe someday the money bird will poo on my head and I'll get a new R1200RT. Won't hold my breath.

Morning James

There is basically no difference in shifting most motorcycle transmissions with straight cut gears vs helical gears as both versions use constant mesh gears (the gear sets are always engaged and the shafts are connected/disconnected from the constant mesh spinning gears using sliding collars & engagement dogs. Occasionally one will have a gear that slides on a splined shaft but even those are constantly/continually engaged, only instead of a sliding collar the engaged gear slides to engage the pins or dogs while maintaining constant gear tooth engagement.

Most of the clunking is due to the play or slop in the dogs vs engagement slots in the lower gear ranges. For ease of shifting the lower gears usually have a lot more slop or play in the engagement dogs to slots. In high gear the dogs fit the slots tighter giving up a little shifting ease for a tight fit & less on/off throttle clunking & less on/off throttle drive train play.

Y'all know WAYYYYY more than me.....and if you say it's okay to shift without the clutch, I'll take your word for it. Myself, the only clutchless shifting I've ever done was on a motocross track. The thought of it makes me cringe.....but again, y'all know way more than me about these beasts.

 

Morning Butthead

 

It's not OK to shift without the clutch if done incorrectly. Doing it the old motocross way is the incorrect way on a BMW street bike.

 

Even the shifter preload way can eventually damage/wear the shift forks due to extra side load on the shift forks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the correction DR.

 

I guess I don't know as much as I thought I did.

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thought some more about this and decided to take a pass. If it gets to the point where I don't want to use the clutch then maybe it's time to hang up my helmet. All these techno gizmos are making me tired, real tired. Now there's the new GW with an auto trans. Give me a break!