Victoria Falls to Cape Town - South Africa

 

It's pretty clear when you enter South Africa that the infrastructure and maintenance are just a little better. The roads (including the gravel roads) are in better shape and probably were designed by engineers with a bit more experience.

 

South Africa has the second highest GDP in Africa (after Nigeria) and is the industrial leader of the continent. Practically anything we ate, drank or used on the whole trip had "Manufactured in South Africa" stamped on it.

 

Our riding in South Africa was limited to 2,370 km (1,470 mi) of the Western Cape and Northern Cape. About 250km was gravel. This part of South Africa is much like the interior of Oregon, Washington or British Columbia with irrigated valleys and mountain ranges.

 

 

 

The roadway stops have modern facades, fast-food outlets and 7-Eleven-like shelves.

 

 

 

 

 

Well, when adjusted for local tastes:

 

 

 

Our first night accommodation in Okiep was next door to an abandoned copper mine. The ventilation shafts and a building housing a Cornish beam engine are still intact, but the ground above the shafts has collapsed since the mine flooded after closing. Unfortunately the open pit is filled with a toxic combination of heavy metals, organics and other inorganics. Similar to the former copper mine (Berkeley Pit) near Butte,MT.

 

 

 

Our group consisted of almost all the guests at the Okiep Country Inn that night, and an excellent buffet supper (again) was on tap. We had even made a point of shopping for South African wines (pinotage, syrah, cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay are all readily available) to sample before and with supper.

 

 

 

The next morning we were off for a fairly short riding day to Lambert's Bay. But just a few minutes after leaving Okiep we were stopped for photo ID and license checks. The rest of the day was through valleys and passes before turning off the N7 onto the R364 to Lambert's Bay. At this point we were stuck behind a few large bulk carriers that seemed to be carrying something nasty. Maybe manure? Really unfortunate because the road promised to be interesting with nice sweepers and passing opportunities were few. We also saw a number of vintage sports cars (Porsche, Mini and Mustangs come to mind) travelling in the opposite direction.

 

 

With our early arrival at Sir Lambert's Guesthouse we had the afternoon for a walk down to the beach and then the breakwater and Bird Island Nature Reserve . Ferocious South Atlantic waves breaking at the waterfront:

 

 

 

Serious breakwater defense:

 

 

 

How would you like to try to keep this fishing boat clean?

 

 

 

 

Breakwater works well:

 

 

 

 

Just a short walk away is the Bird Island Nature Reserve, one of 6 nesting grounds for the Cape Gannett. We were there during nesting season, where over 5,000 pairs are crowded in 3 hectares.

 

 

 

 

 

Shortly before sunset we all got in the van for the 5 km drive to an open-air beach seafood fiesta at Muisbosskerm. A simply amazing experience. OK, it was cool when we got there and cold as the sun was setting. Only a few degrees above freezing, with the brisk breeze off the South Atlantic. But we were warned and everyone was wearing every layer they had. The restaurant also had a supply of blankets. But as the food was being prepared over open fires the heat built up in the sheltered areas and we were soon peeling off our hats and gloves.

 

Fresh crawfish, paella, more than four local fish (in batter and pan fried), potatoe bread and more. So much more.

 

Enjoy the sunset and then the food:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back to Sir Lambert's Guesthouse for a well deserved rest.

 

The next day would be our longest day on the road for the whole tour (430km paved, 120 km gravel).

 

 

So far the riding in South Africa had been superior to Namibia and Botswana. A lot more curves, and we were always going by something of interest like a farm or a dam or orchard.

 

Today promised to be an excellent day with two mountain passes and some interesting gravel stretches. And the last couple of hours was on roads I had ridden in 2015 so I was familiar with what was coming up.

 

 

 

 

 

Up early and on the road, we got to enjoy those sweepers on R364 back to the N7. Then we headed south through irrigated fields & orchards along the Olifantsrivier until we turned off at Citrusdal onto R303.

 

 

OK, road change coming up:

 

 

 

 

The climb up R303 to Middelberg Pass was challenging at some points. But more because my traction control kept cutting the throttle back to near zero whenever the washboard had the rear end hopping about.

 

 

Anyway, we got there

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Later on (back on pavement but just about to hit the gravel again), Mike got to practice his flat changing skills again:

 

 

 

 

 

After lunch, our next pass (Seweweekspoort) was one I had gone over in 2015 and remembered for the colourful rock. It was also our last chance for a group photo on gravel.

 

 

So I was allowed to go ahead until I found a reasonable place to stop and wait for the other riders.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There's a nice stop at the top of the pass before you begin the narrow, curvy descent down the south side to the R62 intersection.

 

 

The 20 or so km down from Seweweekspoort Pass is one of the nicest rides I have been on anywhere. Look up a video on YouTube

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

R62 is a particularly popular route to explore the Western Cape and is a much more interesting motorcycle road than the N2.

 

We then spent another hour or so eastbound on R62 going up and down through the countryside until we reached the regional center of Oudtshoorn. It was pretty slow from there to our accommodation for the night (The Thabile Lodge).

 

Rene couldn't have picked a better place to spend the next two nights. A long day in the saddle was rewarded by fine lodgings, excellent food, cold beer and great company in a nearly ideal setting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Oudtshoorn area is famous for the ostrich farms so ostrich was one of the main course offerings at the lodge that night.

 

 

Everyone ordered the appetizer - bobotie - (ba-bootee), almost the signature South African dish.

 

 

And what a nice setting for us to sit down and enjoy our meal:

 

 

 

 

The clean-up crew was close by:

 

 

 

The next day was an "option day" where different groups (or individuals) could go to local attractions like the Cango Caves, or ride through Meiringspoort Pass to Prince Albert for lunch, or explore local roads. Unfortunately the the road over Swartberg Pass to Prince Albert was closed for repairs after flooding last winter.

 

But it was hard to get motivated to get back on the bikes with this view out the window in the morning:

 

 

 

 

 

The morning walk and view from the deck wasn't too shabby either:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After breakfast one of the other riders and I set out for a little exploration:

 

 

 

 

 

 

That included lots of up and down in the Swartberg Mountains:

 

 

 

 

 

Got to see lots of locals:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And great scenery and roads:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Swartberg Pass really was closed:

 

 

 

 

 

Along the way I had a real brain fart and pulled over to the right shoulder trying to frame a picture. When Steve caught up, I took off and was staying on the right side of the road toward an oncoming SUV. Finally caught on and moved over to the correct (left) side of the road at the last second.

 

I'm sure you could see my flushed, embarassed face right through my shield.

 

Triple fine for the BOS that evening.

 

 

 

More Mike, more.

 

Good thing you are out of Cape Town.... they are running out of water.

Just discovered your ride report, Mike. Looks like a terrific trip, and great adventure. Thanks for taking the time to share it with us.

Great photos. Interesting area and cool birds!

 

Hungry for some paella now 🥘

More Mike, more.

 

Good thing you are out of Cape Town.... they are running out of water.

 

 

Been distracted with a couple of things the last 3 weeks Lester. But here it is .........

 

Mike

 

 

Sadly we were down to our last 4 days of riding. Much of the riding was a repeat of my 2015 tour, but I was really looking forward to the "option day" to check out some of the passes around Stellenbosch.

 

Oudtshoorn to Arniston was a 330 km day crossing through the SA countryside to the Indian Ocean coast, including a couple of nice passes and great scenery.

 

First along R62 east and southbound:

 

 

We stopped at an interesting local oddity, Ronnies (Sex Shop). Which is really just a roadside coffee shop. But they had no power and couldn't even make us coffee.

 

We caught up to the rain when we turned south on R324 over Tradouw Pass:

 

 

Curiously I was the only one who wanted to run the pass more than once (I guess the rain discouraged everyone else), and on my arrival back at the pull-off only Piet was left waiting for me.

 

Which left Piet and me some open road to catch up to the group. Which was going really well.

 

Until it wasn't.

 

West of the R324/R322 intersection there was some farm machinery going from a field on one side of the road to the other side. Farm mud + rain -> sphincter tightening moments (even though we both had slowed quite a bit).

 

Joined the group at a rest stop on the N2, and then stopped for lunch a little later:

 

 

 

Before turning south on the R319 for our wind-blown journey down the Agulhas Peninsula to Cape Agulhas (the southernmost point of the continent of Africa).

 

Trying to get everyone organized for a picture was a challenge:

 

 

 

But we finally got it done:

 

 

 

Then it was just a short ride back to our accommodation for the night, the Arniston Spa Hotel.

 

Arniston (or Waenhuiskrans) has a long history as a fishing village, which is protected as a National Monument.

 

 

Picturesque setting and heritage fishing vessels:

 

 

 

 

 

A wine reception followed by a walkabout.

 

 

 

Many of the rooms were named after local shipwrecks, mine was the Joanna:

 

 

 

I'm not sure how I like the idea of staying in a room named after a shipwreck when on a motorcycle trip. But the room was really nice:

 

 

 

With a great balcony view:

 

 

 

Even more impressive with the sunrise the next morning:

 

 

 

The following day was only 260 km with lots of stops for sightseeing. First of all making our way to the seaside town of Hermanus via small rural roads and the Akkedisberg Pass.

 

Unfortunately the seas were pretty rough, so there were no sightings of right whales:

 

 

 

 

But we did enjoy the local cuisine for our morning coffee break, as well as some souvenir shopping.

 

 

Back on the bikes for the short trip to the Betty's Bay Penguin Nature Reserve:

 

 

 

Lots of African penguins of different ages and cormorants covering the rocks:

 

 

 

 

 

More riding along the seashore. Roads are so nice if they have no frost damage:

 

 

 

But, then we had to turn inland and deal with traffic to arrive at our destination for the next two nights, the Stellenbosch Hotel.

 

After unpacking the van and checking into our rooms, most of the riders met in the hotel central courtyard for a beer or glass of wine. But then everyone scattered to do shopping or go for a walk (or get out of the rain).

 

Mike had thrown his back out and Piet offered some impromptu chiropractic treatment:

 

 

 

On my 2015 visit to Stellenbosch I was struck by the physical beauty of the area, and with the surrounding mountains the riding looked promising. But no-one wanted to spend the option day riding on that trip, instead opting for wine tours and shark cage diving.

 

But on this tour Piet offered to take us on a 300km day that included 4 local mountain passes (Bainskloof, DuToitskloof, Franschhoek and Sir Lowry's):

 

 

Next up: The final two days

 

 

Mike Cassidy

 

 

 

Piet's plan for riding around Stellenbosch was an interesting set of intersecting loops:

 

 

That resulted in lots of elevation with those passes:

 

 

 

It was cool with light rain, but the ride over Bains Kloof was still impressive:

 

 

 

 

On the way down to the Breerivier valley you had to watch for overhanging rock walls:

 

 

 

Then came the Slanghoek Valley with it's vineyards and the Limit Mountains behind:

 

 

 

Followed by Du Toitskloff Pass via R101 avoiding the Huguenot Tunnel:

 

 

 

 

Before noon, our group pulled into the park 'n ride for the Franschhoek Motor Museum for a visit.

 

A gearhead's delight in a magnificent setting and grounds:

 

 

 

The museum has a collection of over 220 vehicles, but only 80 are on display at any one time in the four halls.

 

This visit seemed to featured Alfa Romeo, MG and Ferrari vehicles prominently.

 

 

 

 

 

We then met the rest of the group for lunch at Leopard's Leap Vineyards before continuing on our way to Franschoek Pass:

 

 

 

 

Carrying on past the (nearly empty) Theewaterskloofdam we now had to contend with sand blowing across the road in strong winds. Skipped a little sideways once or twice. Then up Lowry's Pass before heading to Strand, SA and Monkey Town for some primate therapy.

 

 

 

 

Supper that night was in a bistro around the corner from the Stellenbosch Hotel.

 

Rene had spent much of the day dealing with final details of his upcoming South America tour. While repacking what should appear at the bottom of one bag? The Bag-of-Shame!!

 

 

By this time Rene was so far behind (or ahead) I think he had to take out a bank loan to pay his fines.

 

Unfortunately everyone knew the following day was our last day on the bikes, but some pretty important landmarks were coming up.

 

 

Up late (waiting for the rain to stop) we all headed out on a wandering route to the Cape of Good Hope.

 

 

 

 

If you ever go to the Cape of Good Hope, watch out for the wildlife. We almost had collisions with ostrich and baboons.

 

And the baboons at the Cape parking lot are "very naughty", looking for any chance to get into a car or even a tank bag.

 

 

 

In the time we were in the parking lot one woman lost her purse to a baboon that got into her van when her back was turned. Then when she went after that baboon, another one got in the van to continue looking for food. With the help of a few kind souls (including Piet and Steve), she got most of her valuables back but much of the purse contents were strewn over the Cape.

 

 

Next up was Chapman's Peak Drive. An absoulutely gorgeous piece of road that should be on everyone's motorcycling bucket list. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. Or look up a YouTube video:

 

 

 

 

 

 

And a great view of Hout Bay with some of our last photo ops:

 

 

 

 

 

 

After that it was the last hour of riding through Hout Bay, by the Twelve Apostles and Camps Bay:

 

 

 

And then through the priciest real estate in South Africa, Clifton.

 

 

After passing the World Cup Stadium (who can forget the vuvuzela during the 2010 World Cup Games?) we had a short ride through downtown Cape Town to return the motorcycles.

 

 

 

After 5,100 km there had been very few incidents, none of them serious. Only one flat. A few dropped bikes, but as a testament to the fitted engine protection no serious damage. Not even any broken gear shifters, brake pedals, pegs or brake/clutch handles.

 

Our wrap-up dinner that night was a great affair with much consumption of adult beverages and reminiscing. Most of us were staying an extra day or two for sightseeing in the Cape Town area and our paths would continue to cross.

 

As you can see from all the pictures we continued to exchange photos for quite a few weeks following our return home.

 

What's next? Already have my deposit down for South America December 2019. I think it will be a fitting retirement gift.

 

Mike Cassidy

Great photos and very interesting tale Mike !