Shift lever height adjustment on a 2016 RT

I have a 2016 RT, recently i had 1/2" added to the soles of my boots so i can flat-foot the bike more comfortably. (which works great)

But now because the boots are 1/2" taller i have to use more ankle-angle to get my toe under the shift lever.

From looking at the lever mechanism i think i just need to shorten the connecting rod to lift it up a little higher.

The rod looks like it has a ball type connector on each end with adjustment threads and a nut.

Do i adjust it by turning the nut which would draw the the connector with it?

Or, do i need to take the rod off, loosen the nut and then move the connector?

Rather than assume something and break it i figured i'd ask first. ( I gave the manual a look and did not find the answer)

The adjustment nut on the shaft is like a turnbuckle. Loosen up the lock nuts on both ends and turn the coupling in the direction you want. No need to remove anything.

Loosen up the lock nuts on both ends

Also pay careful attention to the nuts and threads-one end has a right handed thread and the other end has a left handed thread. Real easy to strip a nut or the shaft.

Frank

Thanks, i'll give that a go tonight.

This is in the category of Been There Done That... The turnbuckle is,, of course the easiest first step. Like they said above be aware to the lock nut thread direction.

But... and its a big butt... you will possibly discover that the turn buckle fix will only get you so much rise or fall of the shift lever. (and this process can be a bit fiddly- lying on your back on a cold floor).

As an alternative method- If you find that you need more lift or adjustment .... it is pretty easy to loosen the pinch bolt on the base of the shift lever, pull the lever off the shaft and rotate the lever one or two spines on the shaft. Note: there is quite a bit of change at the end of the lever so one "spline shift' might do it, or possible two. the good news is that is easy enough to try one click. get on the saddle and see it is enough.

The trick here is to take a magic marker or pencil marker and draw a line on the end of the shaft onto the lever. This will give you a reference point for how much/little you have moved. You might want to also measure the distance from some point on the lever to the floor. Write that down.... it is another reference. Depending on your bike you may need to use a gear-puller to break the shift lever from the shaft. I have a pretty small one but it sure made it easy. Harbor Freight is a good place for things like that.

Be sure to tighten the pinch bolt when you are finished....

Good advice, i was planning on trying it one evening but it's been so damp and cold and i don't want to lie on the garage floor just yet.

This was a very simple procedure.

- Loosen both lock nuts with a 9mm wrench, remember one is a left-hand thread so don't be a gorilla

- Measure the distance from the ground to a reference point on the shifter

- Slowly turn the the center 8mm nut, a little bit goes a long way. I think i moved it 1/2" in 1 turn

- Sit on it with your boots on and try it

- Tighten down the lock nuts

The whole thing took less than 10 minutes and half of that was walking to my shop in the barn to get the correct end wrenches.

Old Iron... you seem to have missed some of the objectives of self-maintenance. You need to sharpen your game- man... get with it.

If you are going ride a m/c and post on the boards you need to get in the game and join the club.

Specifically:

1. No good project ever goes well until the first beer is spilled.

2. You completely failed to mention what was playing on the shop radio. IIRC Brake or Shifter jobs require something from the mid-60's Rock n' Roll.

3. There was a complete absence of argument and critical thinking about brand and viscosity of the oil. I know- there was no Oil involved but geese man this IS a Moto Forum.

4. Absolutely no mention of how fast you were going, what you had for lunch or other important things...

5. No trip to the Parts Counter, no comment on the goofy clerk at Harbor Freight, no name of the buddy who was holding your beer.... complete failure to communicate.

6. Nothing, zero, about the brand of tires you use, tire pressure, mileage.

7. No saga of getting the Audio System to Pair with your headset.

I seriously question your commitment to the sport....

I'll second that.

I mean hell, I'm still trying to find out why I should never put 80w90 gear oil in my R1100 transmission.

Hey, went to Mo's the other night and the clam chowder is still great!

Old Iron... you seem to have missed some of the objectives of self-maintenance. You need to sharpen your game- man... get with it.

 

If you are going ride a m/c and post on the boards you need to get in the game and join the club.

 

Specifically:

 

1. No good project ever goes well until the first beer is spilled.

2. You completely failed to mention what was playing on the shop radio. IIRC Brake or Shifter jobs require something from the mid-60's Rock n' Roll.

3. There was a complete absence of argument and critical thinking about brand and viscosity of the oil. I know- there was no Oil involved but geese man this IS a Moto Forum.

4. Absolutely no mention of how fast you were going, what you had for lunch or other important things...

5. No trip to the Parts Counter, no comment on the goofy clerk at Harbor Freight, no name of the buddy who was holding your beer.... complete failure to communicate.

6. Nothing, zero, about the brand of tires you use, tire pressure, mileage.

7. No saga of getting the Audio System to Pair with your headset.

 

I seriously question your commitment to the sport....

I left out some details, I was laying on a piece of cardboard from an Amazon box that contained

- One quart of 10w-15w-20w-50w Dino Oil that came only from herbivore dinosaurs, because we know what carnivorous Dino oil will do to you seals

- A set of knock-off crash bars from China both for the left side because that's the side i always drop it on

- A pair of fuel line magnets guaranteed to increase performance and mileage

- A 12 oz can of Radar No-See-Me spray that makes me invisible to the police when i drive the speed limit

- And a baby's arm holding apple

- I did cuss myself not grabbing all of my metric end wrenches in the first place instead of everything but the 8 and 9 mm

Haha, and how many extra screws that were left over after you buttoned everything up!

Old Iron... you seem to have missed some of the objectives of self-maintenance. You need to sharpen your game- man... get with it.

 

If you are going ride a m/c and post on the boards you need to get in the game and join the club.

 

Specifically:

 

1. No good project ever goes well until the first beer is spilled.

Things are different in CO. Around here, spilling beer is alcohol abuse.

Punishment is being cut off and watching your friends drink all your beer.

lol..lol..You guys should take your act on the road :rofl:

Haha, and how many extra screws that were left over after you buttoned everything up!

Luckily this adjustment doesn't require the removal of any tupperware.

I should have mentioned that i torqued everything down 1/32nd of a grunt on the Armstrong scale, which is based on a 12" pipe extender

Is that metric or sae?

That's the beauty of the Armstrong scale, it's Met-rinch. A grunt is a grunt no matter where your nuts came from.

That's the beauty of the Armstrong scale, it's Met-rinch. A grunt is a grunt no matter where your nuts came from.

Lol

Wow, what an informative thread. I am amazed that they don't teach you any of this stuff in school!