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Things I hate, things I love... 500 mile shakedown on the 04 r1150rt


rhetoric

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I've had my new-to-me motorcycle for a whopping two weeks now, so it's way to early for love or hate, but I've managed to put enough miles on it to find out that I like some things... and unlike some things. I'm sharing this recognizing that these opinions could change -- 500 miles is too soon... still...

 

I don't like...

 

THE SIDE STAND! Oy vey! I mean, I know you have to balance the thing, but, there's gotta be a better placement than between the footpeg and the shifter! Surprisingly, it doesn't interfere while riding, but I've stalled the bike about 5 times already, trying to put the kickstand down when the bike is running. The ease with which the center stand works almost makes up for it, but not quite.

 

ERGONOMICS AND THE BLINKERS! I know some things are just different and I'll get used to them (the start button up on the top of the handlebars), but really, BMW? Three different buttons to signal? Years ago those wacky Japanese figured out a way to put all three functions on one switch and it just makes sense. And then there's the bizarre "push up" angle on the signal cancel and the horn. Every horn I've ever used (with the exception of those rubber squeezy horns on my Schwinn Stingray) involve pushing. It's intuitive -- you stick out your hand to say "HALT!" and you beep at them. Sticking your thumb under the switch and lifting? That's bizarre.

 

THE TALL GEARING! It feels like I'm missing first gear. Like I have 2nd through 7th! Like the bike wants to lug in "1st gear" and "6th gear." Starting from a dead stop I have to really rev the bike and let the clutch out slow and so my initial speed seems excessively fast. I've never used 1st gear on a bike except to start -- but I routinely find myself shifting down to 1st when I roll through slow corners. If that's just the way it is, I can get used to it, but it also lugs on the upper end. Now, I really like the idea of a tall 6th gear. My Concours and Vstrom had 6th gears that seemed to overwork the engine at 70/75 mph. So the Beemer's 6th gear is a welcome relief at interstate speeds. At 65+ the bike is buttery smooth and quiet! But 5th gear seems like it's working a little too hard at 55-60mph (it's buzzy), and I spend alot of time riding in the 55-60mph range. But when I shift to 6th, it lugs. That's annoying.

 

WEIRD ENGINE NOISES! My vstrom sounded like the engine was filled with marbles, but everyone said, "The Strom is bullet-proof, but it sounds like the engine is filled with marbles." The RT, at times, sounds like it's filled with rocks. It turns over quietly enough, but the initial first gear take off when the engine is cold involves knocking (not pinging), and when warm, running through the gears it sounds like it's banging a little too hard at higher RPMs (but well before red line). My Concours, using an engine designed in the early 80s, sounded like a 125hp sewing machine, but the Boxer feels like... it's boxing. Again -- at top end, it's lovely, but otherwise it feels buzzy and noisy.* I've seen the ear plug recommendations, but I'd really love to have a couple R1150RT riders take my bike for a spin and say, "Yes, these noises are perfectly normal," or "This bike needs a new actuary motivator," or whatever.

 

IT HAS A CHOKE? Really? Now I've heard some people just calling it a fast idle, but my vstrom sits in the garage all of our long winter and in the Spring fires up, almost BEFORE I hit the start button! And there's no choke. Now, since I changed the spark plugs on the RT it's starting pretty quickly, but it stuns me that I have a BMW, the pinnacle of German engineering, and it has to warm up. Sigh.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

I like...

 

THE RIDING POSITION! It's "sport TOURING," not "SPORT touring." The Concours, FJR, and ST are all SPORT touring bikes. Fast, to be sure, but they feel small and cramped. The BWM is a sport TOURING bike! I like tall, upright, and comfortable, but I don't want a Winnebago (aka, a Goldwing or a BMW 1600), I want a little bit of sport. I bought this bike because I want to go cross country -- maybe do the 4 corners run. I want a mile muncher that carves a bit. Today, I did a 210 mile loop and felt like I made the right decision.

 

THE WEATHER PROTECTION! It was about 40 degrees for my ride today, and by the end the sun was setting and it dropped into the 30s. But for the most part I was quite comfortable because, again, it's a TOURING bike. When I switched from my Concours to the vstrom I lost about 2 months of riding season because 35 degrees is tolerable when the wind isn't blowing up your sleeves, blasting your legs, and buffeting your head. The heated grips on the BMW are pretty nice, too!

 

CENTER OF GRAVITY! Low. It's pretty heavy wheeling it out of the garage, but once rolling, it feels almost flickable. I guess that's the SPORT part.

 

LONGEVITY! Well, or at least I'm hoping. If I can avoid the dreaded final drive explosion, I get the impression these bikes go and go. I'm not sure I like riding motorcycles enough to put 150K on any bike, but it's nice to know that I can!

 

BIKE CULTURE! BMWs aren't cheap (new), so I figured owners were rich guys that went to the dealer and enjoyed watching their money getting sucked all the way to Bavaria. It has been such a delight to find youtube videos and bike forums (fora?) filled with guys (persons) enthusiastically trying to trying wrench and save a few bucks with low-cost alternative parts, tutorials, and etc.

 

Oh, and it LOOKS GOOD! Anyway, don't misunderstand me. I think it's a fine bike! Just trying to figure it out the hitches and such. Anybody wants stop by Rochester way and give her the once over, I'll buy the beer.

 

Paul

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I've had my new-to-me motorcycle for a whopping two weeks now, so it's way to early for love or hate, but I've managed to put enough miles on it to find out that I like some things... and unlike some things. I'm sharing this recognizing that these opinions could change -- 500 miles is too soon... still...

 

I don't like...

 

THE SIDE STAND! Oy vey! I mean, I know you have to balance the thing, but, there's gotta be a better placement than between the footpeg and the shifter! Surprisingly, it doesn't interfere while riding, but I've stalled the bike about 5 times already, trying to put the kickstand down when the bike is running. The ease with which the center stand works almost makes up for it, but not quite.

 

Never had a problem with this. In fact I have MUCH more of a problem on my Wethead because I keep kicking it into gear!

 

ERGONOMICS AND THE BLINKERS! I know some things are just different and I'll get used to them (the start button up on the top of the handlebars), but really, BMW? Three different buttons to signal? Years ago those wacky Japanese figured out a way to put all three functions on one switch and it just makes sense. And then there's the bizarre "push up" angle on the signal cancel and the horn. .

We again must disagree here too. I think the indicator set up was brilliant and id like to see a change inasmuch as the ability to push either button a second time to cancel. Otherwise they are so well placed and intuitive.

 

 

THE TALL GEARING! .

 

The first gear is high for very slow trickling in queues I agree. However, as for 6th, well that is fine. Just don't use sixth until you are travelling fast enough. Treat as as an overdrive.,

 

 

IT HAS A CHOKE? Really? Now I've heard some people just calling it a fast idle,.

No need to sigh. Pull the lever back. Hit the starter button, go ride. No need to warm it up.

 

 

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The RT, at times, sounds like it's filled with rocks. It turns over quietly enough, but the initial first gear take off when the engine is cold involves knocking (not pinging), and when warm, running through the gears it sounds like it's banging a little too hard at higher RPMs (but well before red line).

 

Paul,

Do you know if it still has the original left side cam chain tensioner? The 'upgrade' (using one from a 1200) is a relatively quick and not too painful $ fix.

I have to agree with AndyS regarding the indicator switches. I only get to ride my 1150 1 trip a year, it takes a day to adjust to the 'wrong' side of the road and about 2 more to stop announcing a left turn with the horn, but once acclimatized I love it. Wish my 1200 had the same setup.

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Eckhard Grohe
ERGONOMICS AND THE BLINKERS!

 

The BMW design may be a better but even BMW was not consistent between the three generations of their bikes I have owned. Sometimes it is best to compromise and offer a system that doesn't tax a persons' adaptability so much. All vehicles should be using standardized switch layout and function and this should be mandated by law.

 

:thumbsup: Japanese bikes.

Edited by Eckhard Grohe
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Loved your write up Paul,

 

As far as the goofy switches, I think it's something you just get used to. My only complaint with my '04RT is that my Marsee tankbag activates the horn on extreme left turns, even with the horn guard (aftermarket item) in place. The stock Multivario bag wasn't an issue, but it wasn't mounted as sweet as the Marsee.

 

1st gear: a little tall, agreed. I've learned to like it and I've never stalled it, so....

6th gear: It's one of my favorite features of the bike. I love 1st through 5th spacing. 6th, I leave for 80mph crusing on the freeway

 

Ergonomics: Still incredible after all these years. 30F to 100F, it's hard to find a better mount.

 

Enjoy the quirks of the bike. It's what make it unique.

 

RPG

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Try neutral before putting side stand down.

:)

Many reasons.

 

The bike will roll in 1st gear without high revving, practice, go see a police rodeo (newer models but same concept).

No need to shift to 1st IMO once rolling, 2nd will handle low mph and respond.

 

Keep revs up around town, bike will respond quickly, if you're lugging there's a big delay.

The bike loves being run at higher rpm's.

Some disagree, but shifting above 4-4500 keeps it happy.

Along with Andy, I'll disagree with the ergos.

You can signal turns, honk horn, flash lights, put screen in motion, cancel turn, put on heated grips,etc without moving hand

from grips.

Kissan makes a Signal Minder that will give you running lights and self cancelling signals, a worthy upgrade, IMO.

The 04-05 RT is the best version of the oilhead RT, enjoy.

Best wishes.

Edited by tallman
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szurszewski

 

 

IT HAS A CHOKE? Really? Now I've heard some people just calling it a fast idle,.

No need to sigh. Pull the lever back. Hit the starter button, go ride. No need to warm it up.

 

 

 

I want to underscore this point. You do NOT want to warm up your RT in the traditional sense. That is to say, if you start the bike, especially with the fast idle (which is NOT a choke, but IS labeled as a choke...), and then walk away you WILL melt the plastic or at least the paint around the headers, and you CAN do a lot more damage than that (like conceivably set the fairing on fire. Seriously.).

 

Proper "warm up" for a cold morning is pull the fast idle lever, thumb the starter, put on your helmet and gloves and go. Maybe don't jump on the highway and hit high revs right out of your driveway, but by the time you get two bars on the temp gauge, you can put the lever back to rest position and ride it like you stole it :)

 

 

 

(The fast idle lever literally just pulls a throttle cable a bit - it's exactly like rolling on the throttle just a tiny bit and holding it there.)

 

(Also, we have family in Albany and spent July/August/September there and in Vermont/New Hampshire/Maine last year - you've got some GREAT roads in western upstate NY for that bike!)

 

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I second that advice. Too many buyers of an oilhead boxer think it needs warming up on a chilly morning.

 

Absolutely n o t.

 

Look in the Rider's Handbook.

There it specifically warns you not to.

As AndyS says:

Pull back the fast-idle lever; start the motor; put on your helmet and gloves and ride away immediately. That's IMMEDIATELY !

 

Three junctions later, drop the fast-idle lever back to off.

Edited by Alan Sykes
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I have come to prefer the turn signal arrangement on my oliheads over the newer BMWs or my Triumph, with the more standard left-thumb thing. My left thumb ain't all that dexterous on cold mornings.

 

The horn is another matter. I can think of about 3 times in 20 years I've used it (appropriately and in time to do any good). Having to go between different arrangements on different bikes utterly overloads my tiny brian's circuitry.

 

Never noticed an issue with deploying the sidestand. Bike can feel like it leans farther than I sometimes feel good about, but that's another issue.

 

I don't find first gear too tall. either. But I'll grant that slow speed maneuvering--think city traffic--is not the bike's strong suit.

 

Anyway, you'll get used to it. Enjoy!

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Yeah, it is a little odd to have fuel injection and ABS and an enricher, but you use it so little that its no big deal.

 

I agree that the signals are really awkward. It hurts my hand to cancel them. My thumb just doesn't twist that way. Fortunately, my bike came with a Kisan canceller, and it gets used more than it should.

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Sidestand, shifting.

If you have size 12 or larger feet A shift lever enlarger may make your life easier. It lengthens the lever tip a bit.

If you ride with shoes or boots with a wedge type heel as opposed to a heel that has a definite cut out to hook around the footpeg, then try a pair with the true cut out heel. You'll see a big improvement .

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LONGEVITY! Well, or at least I'm hoping. If I can avoid the dreaded final drive explosion, I get the impression these bikes go and go. I'm not sure I like riding motorcycles enough to put 150K on any bike, but it's nice to know that I can!

 

 

Oh you are green...

 

There is a reason why the RT is so popular. It has better performance than a cruiser, rocket or big touring bike, if you embrace the machine.

 

There are a few gotcha-ya repairs on the 04RT. The final drive is not one of the scary ones to me. Yes, it would end a trip. But is not a scrap the motorcycle problem. You have to mindful about the transmission splines. But the 04 should be fine. Mine was. The repair that I was afraid of was the brake/ABS system failing. I had no problems with the whizzy brakes, but electronics work until they don't.

 

And yes, I am from the school of hard knocks and busted knuckles. 2014, I was coming home from the MOA rally and after a week on the road, I felt the bike change. There was a vibration in the pegs with the clutch in and coasting. I knew something was wrong, but didn't know what. Parked the bike to buy house. Later in 2015 I found a bearing in the transmission was compromised. Most likely due to a leaking slave cylinder. Found a used transmission on ebay and embarked on a three weekend trans swap. Replaced the clutch and brake lines at the same time. I t was great fun!

 

20965722806_bb191c088e_c.jpg

 

20370899093_f56f5bc744_c.jpg

 

Because of this repair, and other potential failures, I made the leap to a RTW in 2016. I do at time miss my 04.

 

Enjoy.

 

Snowy.

Edited by Essnowyt
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Mike Sawatske

Ah rhetoric,

Your early experiences parallel mine so much, most other replies have covered the blinker arrangement - different but logical. Lots of owners of the newer models regret BMW standardising with the rest of the world!

I really had no worries with the handling of the bike or the driveability once cruising. HOWEVER the servo brakes bothered me as did the surging and like you the propensity to stall when getting mobile - in first gear too. No guts at less than 3k rpm was a shock for an 1150 motor to me. The old carburretted beemers were torque monsters!

 

After 18 months I thought I would sell it and concentrate on my 01 VFR800. After the free period of 6 weeks on Gumtree (Oz Craigslist) at an attractive price and no enquiries, not even from Oil rig workers, and 225+ lookers - my obstinate, stubborn streak determined that I wasn't giving the beast away, time for some mods which would make it suit me. This of course required me to spend some serious coin (remember I'm stubborn!)

 

I have carried out 4 very beneficial mods viz.

1. Fitting an AF-Xied fuel mixture fudge for the fuel controller, what a difference this made to the bikes driveability. Less complications at take-off, no fuel surging, no hiccuping when powering on during corners allowing the bike to stay stable (yes it was that bad), power at lower revs enabling drive in most situations one gear higher than previously. 6th gear becomes something other than an overdrive. A search will get you plenty of info around the internet on AF-Xied and also this long post in which 'roger 04 rt' takes one through the theory and experimenting - he's a genius!

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=746671&page=32

Money well spent, but boy did I agonise over it - our Pacific peso only nets us US$0.75.

The fuel consumption is just the same as it always was about 20.5km/litre so the mixture change is just a poofteenth rather than pouring in masses more. I think others have experienced this pleasant outcome as well. It never ceases to amaze me that a monster bike like this has the same fuel consumption as my VFR800 and a VFR750 before that?

 

2. Replaced the LHS cam chain follower which resulted in a bonus which I hadn't expected - I get hardly any rattle being directed by the fairing into my helmet anymore. I only replaced on recommendation of plenty on this forum, following BMW's suggestion.

 

3. Performed a servoectomy, without requiring any part replacement using a method from a site UKGS ER.com "Simple, NO COST servo removal of 1150 IABS system" Even the pics applied to the RT. I worked out my own circuits for the lights using his method. Yes the brakes now work just like all the bikes you've ever ridden before ABS was introduced. ABS being the only potentially detrimental casualty of this mod. a risk I am willing to take compared to the strife the servo sustem used to give me in riding the bike. Brake fluid maintenance is also now the simple job it was on old timers.

 

4. Separated the fuel transducer ground from the Fuel pp ground at the plug under the tank. Whether it was this change or just separating and remaking the plug/socket connection is a moot point, however, I now get 10 bars on the RID with fuel level at the bottom of the filler tube rather than having to get it all the way up to the breather hole in the filler tube, a laborious sometimes messy process!

 

The wire bow on the sidestand deployment arm can be bent to your requirements, if needed. Too far out will get in your way though JAMHIK. I've attached an ice hockey puck to the bottom of the sidestand to keep the bike a bit more upright at rest - I'm getting old and feeble and have trouble with the bike's weight at rest, especially on heavily cambered streets.

 

The bike is now a keeper, I love it, still have trouble at pottering speeds and have to be careful where I park it. The seat is the only ongoing project I have now trying for the elusive 'Master Yoda Riding Position', look it up if you haven't read it already.

 

I have only taken mine from 45kkm to 60kkm in the 3 years of ownership - small cheese, but it was a garage queen for over 12 months! Hope you come to regard yours with the same affection over time and acclimatisation.

Mike

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I think the turn signals are excellent- push the left button to signal left, push the right to signal right. My gripe is the horn button. UP to blow the horn??? not real intuitive, especially in a panic, when you need the horn. Dave

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I always pull the clutch in while deploying the sidestand ... it's a habit.

 

+1...at least BMW wisely got rid of the auto retract featured for a few years on older air heads. Seemed like a nice idea but a lot of dumped bikes resulted from that brain fart of an idea.

 

I think the turn signals are excellent- push the left button to signal left, push the right to signal right. My gripe is the horn button. UP to blow the horn??? not real intuitive, especially in a panic, when you need the horn. Dave

 

It took a while to get used to the 3 button system VS the ubiquitous single L/R switch on the left control pod, but MOHO three buttons to do one chore is a waste of prime switch gear real estate. When I put on a Kissan signal minder on my R100RT I did finally liked it the functionality of the system because of the added time out self cancelling for a forgotten signal. With that Kissan set up comes close to the nicely set up system on HDs, the only other bike manufacturer that I know that uses the multi button turn signal design.

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The only switch to me that is annoying is the horn switch. I don't know how many times in quick need I miss it and just have to shake my fist at the stupid driver. Then find the horn switch and hit after the fact. Taking evasive action is the most important thing first before worrying about hitting the horn. IMO. Still goofy for me though.

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Lone_RT_rider
ERGONOMICS AND THE BLINKERS! I know some things are just different and I'll get used to them (the start button up on the top of the handlebars), but really, BMW? Three different buttons to signal? Years ago those wacky Japanese figured out a way to put all three functions on one switch and it just makes sense. And then there's the bizarre "push up" angle on the signal cancel and the horn. .

 

Believe it or not, my 2018 Harey-Davidson FLHTP Electra-glide has both a right, and a left hand control for the blinkers. The key difference is that you can cancel (or allow them to self cancel) the signal by simply pressing the same button a second time. I'm still getting used to them, but so far, so good. :)

 

HD%20hand%20controls.jpg

 

Shawn

 

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When did BMW go to the leftside-rightside blinker switches? I know my 91 K75 had them, as did my oliheads. But I think my 83 R80 had the combined leftside switch. Just curious.

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duckbubbles
When did BMW go to the leftside-rightside blinker switches? Just curious.
My '85 K-bike has the 3 switch system. I believe they were introduced about that time. It causes problems when changing between the different bikes in my stable. I have to "think"

about it too much. I know the signal switch was changed on R-bikes around 2010. I believe the K series changed sooner.

 

Frank

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When did BMW go to the leftside-rightside blinker switches? I know my 91 K75 had them, as did my oliheads. But I think my 83 R80 had the combined leftside switch. Just curious.

 

My '71 /5 had a single switch/button on the left side switch gear. Flip up for right or flip down for left and a press on the same switch/button was the horn. I really like that set up, nice and compact in a single location. Nothing was automated in that era though.

 

My '99 RT had the 3 button system, and still nothing automated. Adding a Kissan signal minder made it function more HD like in that you could cancel by hitting the Left or Right signal button a second time, or use the cancel button, and added a programmable time out cancel.

 

 

ERGONOMICS AND THE BLINKERS! I know some things are just different and I'll get used to them (the start button up on the top of the handlebars), but really, BMW? Three different buttons to signal? Years ago those wacky Japanese figured out a way to put all three functions on one switch and it just makes sense. And then there's the bizarre "push up" angle on the signal cancel and the horn. .

 

Believe it or not, my 2018 Harey-Davidson FLHTP Electra-glide has both a right, and a left hand control for the blinkers. The key difference is that you can cancel (or allow them to self cancel) the signal by simply pressing the same button a second time. I'm still getting used to them, but so far, so good. :)

 

Shawn

 

I think your '18 E-Glide also has a lean sensor as well a time distance algorithm. It should cancel soon after a turn, but it may need to be like a 90° city street turn. A friend had an early twin cam motor Hawg and I was impressed how that system worked... That patent should be running out soon and the lean sensor capability would be a nice copied feature on other brand machines.

 

Edited by Paul De
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Lone_RT_rider
I think your '18 E-Glide also has a lean sensor as well a time distance algorithm. It should cancel soon after a turn, but it may need to be like a 90° city street turn. A friend had an early evolution motor Hawg and I was impressed how that system worked... That patent should be running out soon and the lean sensor capability would be a nice copied feature on other brand machines.

 

Maybe I have been riding BMW's for too many years and don't care to wait for the signals to turn off, but it always seems like the signals are on for a longer time than I am comfortable with. I might just be a bit impatient too.....hence the reason I have a Buell that I now have to sell. :D

 

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Thanks for all the great feedback. I do need to look after the tensioner and see if she's the culprit w/ the engine noise. Snow and salt again today, so maybe I have some time to work instead of ride. Sigh.

 

By the time I can afford a BMW generation bike w/ sensible blinkers (aka, Japanese style) I'll probably be too old to ride!

 

It's nice to know others have noticed the high rev 1st gear situation. At least I can just get used to it instead of wondering if something is wrong.

 

Good to know I shouldn't let it sit and idle... I'm just amazed that a fuel injected engine doesn't just go "vroom!" (By the way -- I have to hold my fast idle in the on position. Is that normal?)

 

Essnowyt, I get nervous just looking at that photo.

 

 

 

 

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Two positions for the fast idle lever, well, three really:

 

1. Off - pushed all the way forward (down?)

2. Detent position (stays in this position by itself, shouldn't need to hold it manually) - smaller throttle plate opening, i.e. lower fast idle speed

3. Spring return position (will return to the detent position - or skip all the way to off - if not held open manually) - larger throttle opening, faster idle speed, mainly use it to just get the bike started in colder weather.

 

There have been a few posts about getting the proper cable adjustment for this lever to operate correctly, as in setting the correct amount of cable slack so the throttle plate is sufficiently open. It sounds like you may need to make an adjustment on that cable. I don't have the procedure at hand right now, but likely somebody will chime in.

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A few days ago SAS commented:-

"...The only switch to me that is annoying is the horn switch."

Whether you agree or not with BMW's 3-button system, a lot depends on why you use the horn - or should I say, pathetic little one-unit beeper, sounding like the Roadrunner.

 

Many riders / drivers think the horn is used for admonishment. It's not. It's supposed to be used to make other road users aware of your presence IN ADVANCE. Sounds a touch po-faced, I know.

 

But the fact is provided you're driving with anticipation uppermost in your mind, instead of seeing how fast you can go round cars, then you beep the tweeter when you think a cager MIGHT pull out on you, whatever.

 

I always keep a close eye on the front wheel of a cager waiting at a junction that's in my path. The slightest tiny movement of that wheel-rim means I blast the twin-klaxon system that I sourced very cheaply from the Bay and which scares most Dozy Doris's in their Datsuns out of their wits.

 

If a blast is sent out in anticipation there's no sense of admonishment, which in today's jungle of road users can result in some testosteroned bozo pulling up in front of you, jumping out of his vehicle and clocking you with a practised right-cross or uppercut or more seriously, a car jack.

 

Edited by Alan Sykes
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I always keep a close eye on the front wheel of a cager waiting at a junction that's in my path.

That is one of the top pieces of riding advice I always carry with me (whether I'm on two wheels or four). I credit my first rider class (from way back when) with that great nugget, and others like it. To steal from Yogi Berra...safe motorcycling is 90% mental, the other half is physical.

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I think the indicator set up was brilliant and id like to see a change inasmuch as the ability to push either button a second time to cancel.

 

My 2004 RT has this feature. Push same side to cancel. I think it makes them much more intuitive. Kisan Tech sells a "SignalMinder" that plugs in to our wiring harness, and offers this feature along with daytime running lights, and auto signal cancellation. Highly recommended.

 

As an aside, the previous owner of my RT also installed the Kisan flashing brakelight setup. It flashes a red LED array on the license plate a few times when the brakes are applied. My riding buddies appreciate this feature so much that they all went out and bought it for their own bikes. It really helps to send clear visual cues to anyone behind you: so many motorcycle brakelights are dim, and do not provide unequivocal cues to braking.

 

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WEIRD ENGINE NOISES! My vstrom sounded like the engine was filled with marbles, but everyone said, "The Strom is bullet-proof, but it sounds like the engine is filled with marbles." The RT, at times, sounds like it's filled with rocks.

 

Paul

 

I know what you mean about the Vstrom, although mine was a DL1000... It sounded like something was loose and slapping around in there. But it was silky smooth from 2500 rpm to 9000 rpm. Pretty impressive for a V-twin. So, it took me awhile to re-acclimate to the boxer. One thing I found in all the online wisdom was that the 1150 is really sensitive to symmetrical valve adjustment, and throttle body adjustment. When you get it dialed in JUST SO, it runs pretty smooth and the vibrations are attenuated. I went through a short learning curve on the valve adjustment -- it is actually really easy to do. There are several methods proposed by internet mechanics. I tried them all, and settled on Jim Von Baden's method.

 

One nice thing about getting it set JUST SO, is that my hands don't vibrate as much. I used to get off the bike after riding for a few hours, and my hands would be numb. Now I use that as a signal that it is time to do some tweaking.

 

Finally, one more thought about rough-running. I rode for most of a summer with a bad stick coil. My previous 1150 did not have dual spark, and I just hadn't considered that the rough engine was related to a bad coil. When I finally figured it out, I was amazed at how smooth the engine could be.

 

Cap

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A few days ago SAS commented:-

"...The only switch to me that is annoying is the horn switch."

Whether you agree or not with BMW's 3-button system, a lot depends on why you use the horn - or should I say, pathetic little one-unit beeper, sounding like the Roadrunner.

 

Many riders / drivers think the horn is used for admonishment. It's not. It's supposed to be used to make other road users aware of your presence IN ADVANCE. Sounds a touch po-faced, I know.

 

But the fact is provided you're driving with anticipation uppermost in your mind, instead of seeing how fast you can go round cars, then you beep the tweeter when you think a cager MIGHT pull out on you, whatever.

 

I always keep a close eye on the front wheel of a cager waiting at a junction that's in my path. The slightest tiny movement of that wheel-rim means I blast the twin-klaxon system that I sourced very cheaply from the Bay and which scares most Dozy Doris's in their Datsuns out of their wits.

 

If a blast is sent out in anticipation there's no sense of admonishment, which in today's jungle of road users can result in some testosteroned bozo pulling up in front of you, jumping out of his vehicle and clocking you with a practised right-cross or uppercut or more seriously, a car jack.

 

 

Alan Sykes

 

I don't hardly ever use the horn. But when I need it "rare occasion" I usually hit the blinker switch instead. The bottom line for me is, it is goofy. Have ridden my different types of motorcycles and by far the oilhead BMW that I have is goofy for that switch. Sorry you read way more into what I wrote than was intended to just be a simple statement. I do agree on one thing though, you are right, the horn "stock" is pathetic. I do drive with anticipation and "try to use the horn for just that reason". But you made it sound like I am a 20 year old kid doing 150mph on a rice rocket weaving in and out of traffic. Sorry not that kind of a guy.

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Sorry SAS, but I didn't imply or intend any personal slight on you or your riding habits whatsoever.

 

I was simply reporting that many bikers here seem to regard the purpose of riding a bike as being to pass as many cars as humanly possible, with little regard to traffic conditions.

And when on occasion someone doesn't see them, they hit the horn button and give them the finger.

My use of the word "you" didn't mean you - the third person implication context is what I intended.

 

Civil Guard Tráfico patrolmen on their white Authorities version R1150RT machines in this country can pull over any driver or rider at any time without any pretext at all. They often pair up at a roundabout, stand there in their dark glasses watching oncoming vehicles, and simply point at random to the roadside at any road user to pull over and stop.

 

And God help anyone who ignores the gesture. The patrolmen each carry a 9mm Glock on their hip. They were historically the murderous Franco's enforcers, and still don't brook any challenge, as you maybe saw on TV during the independence kerfuffles last Autumn in Catalunia.

 

Edited by Alan Sykes
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Yes, Alan. I have experienced their self righteous up themselves attitude first hand. They wasted a considerable amount of my precious time whilst I was trying to get to a ferry port. The misdemeanor? The OEM 1150RT foglights were 'on' (not spot lights).

 

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Alan Sykes,

 

No apologies needed. You are just a very articulate guy. I could use some lessons from you!

 

Have never met any Civil Guard Tra'fico patrolmen. It does not sound like fun though.

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WEIRD ENGINE NOISES! My vstrom sounded like the engine was filled with marbles, but everyone said, "The Strom is bullet-proof, but it sounds like the engine is filled with marbles." The RT, at times, sounds like it's filled with rocks.

 

Paul

 

I know what you mean about the Vstrom, although mine was a DL1000... It sounded like something was loose and slapping around in there. But it was silky smooth from 2500 rpm to 9000 rpm. Pretty impressive for a V-twin. So, it took me awhile to re-acclimate to the boxer. One thing I found in all the online wisdom was that the 1150 is really sensitive to symmetrical valve adjustment, and throttle body adjustment. When you get it dialed in JUST SO, it runs pretty smooth and the vibrations are attenuated. I went through a short learning curve on the valve adjustment -- it is actually really easy to do. There are several methods proposed by internet mechanics. I tried them all, and settled on Jim Von Baden's method.

 

One nice thing about getting it set JUST SO, is that my hands don't vibrate as much. I used to get off the bike after riding for a few hours, and my hands would be numb. Now I use that as a signal that it is time to do some tweaking.

 

Finally, one more thought about rough-running. I rode for most of a summer with a bad stick coil. My previous 1150 did not have dual spark, and I just hadn't considered that the rough engine was related to a bad coil. When I finally figured it out, I was amazed at how smooth the engine could be.

 

Cap

 

Very helpful. I haven't done the valves yet, but they are on my agenda. I've only ever done the valves on my Honda c90 (one intake, one exhaust!), but there are plenty of tutorials. I will search Von Baden! There is a BMW club in my area -- I look forward to getting to know some real folks who can give the bike a listen. My hands weren't numb after a 200+ mile run, but that was mostly in the smooth spot at 70mph.

 

Stick coil tests?

 

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StillLearnin

+1 for AF-Xied. The smoothness of carburetors with the crispness of injection. And, more torque, all the time.

 

I had trouble with my hands going to sleep when I got my R1150RT. It turned out to be the way the bike was setup. It was pulling on my wrist. I took off the bar backs, took shims out from under the seat bracket (added by a PO) which then required me to raise the seat to avoid knee cramps, and wala! I felt like I was on my old R100RT. No more hands going to sleep, and Yoda position is easier to attain, although I'm not there all the time, yet.

Edited by StillLearnin
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Alan Sykes,

 

No apologies needed. You are just a very articulate guy. I could use some lessons from you!

 

Have never met any Civil Guard Tra'fico patrolmen. It does not sound like fun though.

 

I take it you've never had an encounter with the Washington State Patrol?

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Hello,

 

Just like you I bought an '04 last year. It too had some issues with rough idling which did turn out to be a stick coil. I got one of these

coil tester

 

I found one of the coils was bad. I replaced both on the recommendations from this board. I got them from here:

http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/scoil853.htm

 

They are the same Beru replacements that beemer boneyard sells. That made the bike worlds better. I also replaced the plugs themselves as that was cheap enough. Lastly, I replaced the air filter but that didn't seem to make much of a difference. Before the plugs and coils it stumbled bad until it got some heat into it. Now it idles great even down into the 30's. I still need the fast idle to get an easy start.

 

A month after having it though, the fuel pump went. The folks on this site were great at assisting in diagnosing and fixing it. That made me tear into the bike a bit and I discovered that this is an easy machine to work on once the plastic is off. Enjoy the bike.

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Alan Sykes,

 

No apologies needed. You are just a very articulate guy. I could use some lessons from you!

 

Have never met any Civil Guard Tra'fico patrolmen. It does not sound like fun though.

 

I take it you've never had an encounter with the Washington State Patrol?

 

No. Have lived here for a long time with no issues.

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