2005 R1200RT

I have a question regarding the torque for the tiebolts to the cylinder head on my bike. The manual calls for torque to 20 Nm then an additional 90 degree turn (by stages diagonally across all 4 bolts) and then an additional 90 degree turn once more. So in other words, each bolt receives an initial 20 Nm torque followed by another 180 degrees of turn. The tiebolts on my bike are the original ones (approx 25k miles). I had to remove the nuts in order to replace a damaged bolt for my valve adjustment. Now I'm reassembling everything and I don't want to over-torque by tiebolts. Does anyone have experience with this? An assistance appreciated. The nuts/bolts are depicted in the photo by the number 3. attached photo Thanks!

I have a question regarding the torque for the tiebolts to the cylinder head on my bike. The manual calls for torque to 20 Nm then an additional 90 degree turn (by stages diagonally across all 4 bolts) and then an additional 90 degree turn once more. So in other words, each bolt receives an initial 20 Nm torque followed by another 180 degrees of turn. The tiebolts on my bike are the original ones (approx 25k miles). I had to remove the nuts in order to replace a damaged bolt for my valve adjustment. Now I'm reassembling everything and I don't want to over-torque by tiebolts. Does anyone have experience with this? An assistance appreciated. The nuts/bolts are depicted in the photo by the number 3. attached photo Thanks!

Afternoon Just1Scoop

Yes, go by the book, initial 20 nm (cross torque & go around a couple of time until all are at exactly 20 nm. Then MARK THE NUTS FOR POSITION (I usually mark the very top on). Then cross tighten until all are turned in 90°, then go back around & cross torque another 90° (all should then be at 180° tight from 20 nm)

Unlike most bolt or nut torqueing the BMW spec is OILED threads so be sure that the bottom of the nuts & threads are fully oiled (this is important to a good even torque). If the threads are too dry you will get a lot of stud elastic wind up then an improper final stud stretch.

You will probably find that the final 90° feels way too tight (it will fight you).

If you find one lower stud sticking out more then the others LEAVE IT ALONE as it is supposed to stick out (you can ruin an engine by turning that stud it to be even with the others)

I hope you didn't disturb the head gasket sealing by having all 4 loose at the same time or you might end up having to replace the head gasket.

Thanks dirtrider. Will do. Keeping my fingers crossed on the gasket!