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To pushrod or not to pushrod -- that is the question


rhetoric

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I'm getting ready to do my inaugural valve adjustment (04 1150rt w/ 18K). I will also be checking the left chain tensioner and replacing if necessary and I'm wondering...

 

How likely is it that my pushrods should be replaced while I'm in there? I don't want to rip all the tupperware off twice. Is this "just a matter of time -- might as well order and replace them now -- the originals suck" or "they could last for decades -- don't waste your money till you need to" ???

 

Also, the little buggars are expensive. Gotta buy OEM? Couldn't find an alternative in the parts alternative thread.

 

It's still snowing, so it's not like I"m going anywhere for awhile, but "I hate waiting."

 

Inigo... er... Paul

 

 

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why do you think the pushrods need replacing?

 

Owning the same bike with nearly 100k, all I've done is basically, valve clearance checks. Check the clearances as well as up down movement of the rocker shafts and you should be good. Pushrods? Sort of out of the question unless I had some really, really strange engine noise going on.

 

Actually, I haven't had to actually adjust anything in at least 30k miles, so now I just extend the service interval to 12k and go from there.

 

The cam chain tensioner is a recommended upgrade (left side only) as the stock tensioner doesn't hold the cam chain tight with the engine not running. The new design works more like a hydraulic lifter in that it hold oil pressure, and prevents chain slop on start up.

 

RPG

 

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At 18k miles, you may not even have any noise on start up to warrant replacing the tensioner. There's nothing to check, really. If you are going to remove it, you might as well replace it.

 

If you do, it's not new, it's not the "1200" tensioner should you go to your dealer and insist on the "new" tensioner or the tensioner from "the 1200".

The part superseded what, 4-5-6 years ago and honestly you couldn't buy the "old" one if you wanted to.

The part number has been the same for the 1100, 1150, 1200 for a long time so if you do get a rattly noise on start up that goes away, not due to having tired, well used motor oil, then changing of the tensioner can help reduce it greatly.

 

Pushrods last many, many, thousands of miles and I recall we replaced a few but can't recall the reason. It was that seldom and could have been do to a bulletin or something.

Getting old I guess.

 

The pushrods are very cute if nothing else. Great to show to HD owners .

I used to keep one by my terminal as a conversation starter for a while.

Edited by Tri750
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That was it, we had a very small percentage of pushrods that the tips came loose but after a number of miles.

Handled under no charge deal as the bikes were normally out of warranty.

 

The guy isn't really up to speed, as the tensioner noise is just for a few seconds on start up not constant.

 

Also, a bad synch job can give you a similar noise, among a few more things but again, 18k miles is not even broken in.

 

 

 

 

 

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I'm getting ready to do my inaugural valve adjustment (04 1150rt w/ 18K). I will also be checking the left chain tensioner and replacing if necessary and I'm wondering...

 

How likely is it that my pushrods should be replaced while I'm in there? I don't want to rip all the tupperware off twice. Is this "just a matter of time -- might as well order and replace them now -- the originals suck" or "they could last for decades -- don't waste your money till you need to" ???

 

Also, the little buggars are expensive. Gotta buy OEM? Couldn't find an alternative in the parts alternative thread.

 

It's still snowing, so it's not like I"m going anywhere for awhile, but "I hate waiting."

 

Inigo... er... Paul

 

 

 

Morning rhetoric

 

Not very likely, there were some problems with very early 1100 pushrods telescoping but the later ones were redesigned so very few if any problems.

 

In any case you will quickly know when you go to adjust the valve lash as a bad pushrod will stand out as being WAY out of adjustment.

 

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If you replace your pushrods, your dealer will give you the new design pushrods introduced with the R1200 hexhead. Completely different design. I did mine because I could.

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Just completed my inaugural valve adjustment and found out I have the old tensioner. So I decided to replace that and hold off on the pushrods (fix one noisy thing at a time). If it's still noisy after all this work... :-)

 

The valves were VERY tight. All of them. So tight I wondered if I actually had the bike at TDC. The intakes, especially, barely moved. But I used the sight hole and here's hoping. It took me forever. Would have been nice to have a veteran sitting next to me say... "Um. Ya -- that's right... er... no, don't do that... and don't forget to..." It's hard when you don't know what your tolerances are. Still, great tutorials and videos and etc. If you can read a recipe, you can fix your bike.

 

 

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Just completed my inaugural valve adjustment and found out I have the old tensioner. So I decided to replace that and hold off on the pushrods (fix one noisy thing at a time). If it's still noisy after all this work... :-)

 

The valves were VERY tight. All of them. So tight I wondered if I actually had the bike at TDC. The intakes, especially, barely moved. But I used the sight hole and here's hoping. It took me forever. Would have been nice to have a veteran sitting next to me say... "Um. Ya -- that's right... er... no, don't do that... and don't forget to..." It's hard when you don't know what your tolerances are. Still, great tutorials and videos and etc. If you can read a recipe, you can fix your bike.

 

If the valves were "really" tight, is it possible that you were at TDC on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke?

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Just completed my inaugural valve adjustment and found out I have the old tensioner. So I decided to replace that and hold off on the pushrods (fix one noisy thing at a time). If it's still noisy after all this work... :-)

 

The valves were VERY tight. All of them. So tight I wondered if I actually had the bike at TDC. The intakes, especially, barely moved. But I used the sight hole and here's hoping. It took me forever. Would have been nice to have a veteran sitting next to me say... "Um. Ya -- that's right... er... no, don't do that... and don't forget to..." It's hard when you don't know what your tolerances are. Still, great tutorials and videos and etc. If you can read a recipe, you can fix your bike.

 

If the valves were "really" tight, is it possible that you were at TDC on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke?

 

I wondered that too, but had the cover off on the other side so I checked it and nothing moved at all. Then, after doing that side, turned the engine again and it was the same situation... exhaust moved, intake barely moved, and neither side would budge on the other side. So, I'm assuming! The intakes DID move/click, but compared to the exhaust, not much.

 

Again, I had the OT line right in the middle of the hole and the chain gear hash mark (?) was horizontal.

 

Does that sound right? Now you've got me thinking I need to go check again, ding dang it! :-)

 

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I wondered that too, but had the cover off on the other side so I checked it and nothing moved at all. Then, after doing that side, turned the engine again and it was the same situation... exhaust moved, intake barely moved, and neither side would budge on the other side. So, I'm assuming! The intakes DID move/click, but compared to the exhaust, not much.

 

Again, I had the OT line right in the middle of the hole and the chain gear hash mark (?) was horizontal.

 

Does that sound right? Now you've got me thinking I need to go check again, ding dang it! :-)

Sounds like you just had some really tight valves. You can verify which piston is on compression and which is on exhaust by watching the valves move as you rotate the engine. Someone may have a better way, but that is how I have always done it. First, make sure you are rotating it forward, i.e. put putting it in gear and turning the rear wheel forward. As a piston comes to TDC on compression all the valves will be closed, while the exhausts will be open as it comes to TDC on exhaust. I guess another way is to put a thumb over the spark plug hole and feel the compression as it comes to TDC on compression.

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I have changed the pushrods with the updated ones on a 1150gs, 240k kms mileage. The bike rattled a lot when hot.

You only need to take off the valve covers and the lower part of the valve assembly, so that the pins that hold the rocker arms can slide down.

Do one side at a time, while the pistons are at TDC compression stroke.

 

Now, the bike is quieter.

 

Dan.

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Well, I took off one side and used the dowel method -- I got it right the first time.

 

But after fluids, valves, tensioner, and plugs, it sounds just like it sounded before I did all the work! But I'm just going to leave it. Maybe someday I'll join up with the Finger Lakes group around here and get a second opinion. When I do the valves again (probably at the end of the summer) I'll go ahead and replace the pushrods, just for peace of mind.

 

But again, thanks for all the help.

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