600 mile service...re-torque??

Just picked up an '18 RT LC last week. It's already due (well...overdue) for the 600 mile service. The salesman explained to me that it is important to return to the dealer for this service so that all the fasteners can be re-torqued. The dealer is 100 miles away. I've done my own routine service on various BMW's for years. Others have complained that the 600 mile service can run 350-400. I plan to do it myself.

The BMW running in schedule does not mention re-torquing. But it did get me thinking: how does one re-torque a fastener? Should it be loosened first and then tightened to the correct torque? Or just snugged up a bit at the correct torque value? What about "micro-encapsulated" fasteners? Without a factory service DVD, I'm not able to located a listing of correct torque settings other than for routine service items (wheel bolts, front axle, pinch bolt, caliper bolts, etc.). I make it a point to correctly torque all fasteners that I remove and replace during routine service. Should I be doing more? What do others do?

I've done all of the service on my 2016 RT and didn't bother retorquing anything at the 600 mile service. I did have to pull the rear wheel though as I picked up a screw early on so the rear wheel bolts got retorqued at that time. I would think that it certainly couldn't hurt to check those routine service items you point out though. I'd also bet they would simply check to see that the bolts haven't loosened up. You might want to pick up either the factory service DVD or the one that Jim Von Baden puts out (Wethead Service DVD) ... I have both but Jim's DVD is much easier to follow.

I let the dealer do my 600 mile service (14R1200RT), this is the only service the dealer has done. I own a GS911, checking faults and resetting service reminders plus doing a better brake flush (per schedule) is needed for service. Looking over the Run In Check (600 mile service) I don't see any re-torque. I remember having my 02R1150RT serviced for the first time it did require re-torque of the heads. Many have suggested to let the dealer do the first service but that's your choice. I take pictures with oil/filter and newspaper (current paper with date showing) at each service as part of my documentation.

Jay

Morning Lemans

But it did get me thinking: how does one re-torque a fastener? Should it be loosened first and then tightened to the correct torque? Or just snugged up a bit at the correct torque value?

Retightening torque methods

The retightening method requires that additional torque is applied to a bolt or screw which has already been

tightened, and then measures the torque value when the bolt just begins to move again.

Reference

But it did get me thinking: how does one re-torque a fastener? Should it be loosened first and then tightened to the correct torque? Or just snugged up a bit at the correct torque value?

 

Retightening torque methods

The retightening method requires that additional torque is applied to a bolt or screw which has already been

tightened, and then measures the torque value when the bolt just begins to move again.

 

Reference

Morning LittleBriar

It really depends of what you are retorquing.

The are different ways to check torque & that is different than re-torqueing.

As a rule just CHECKING torque is to put a torque wrench on the fastener then pulling up to the suggested torque. If the fastener doesn't move then it is considered properly torqued.

If you want to re-torque the you must back the fastener off, then re-torque it (unless it is a micro-encapsulated type fastener) those require some research on IF they are a once & done or are re-usable a couple of times.

Then if re-torqueing a lubricated fastener it might have to be disassembled & re-lubed before re-torqueing.

Where I work we usually just check the torque & not re-torque unless there is a valid reason to back the fastener off & re-torque.

Thanks for the above. Just did the oil change and will do the final drive when replacement crush washers arrive. Imagine my chagrin to discover that my version 1 yellow GS911 will not fit the round connector found under the passenger seat. I have learned that other LC models have a rectangular OBD connector located by the battery. As you all know, the new version GS911 costs 399.00. I've used mine with each service on previous bikes, but rarely learned more than that a heated seat had been left unconnected. It was useful to reset the annoying service reminder. Do I have any options other than just forking over the $$$? I'm afraid I already know the answer. Would it be unwise to ignore the service warnings and soldier on without the version 2 device, as long as the bike is running well and no warning lights show up?

I have a 2014 Wethead and after the dealer managed to cause more problems then good, I decided to do my own services. I am in the same boat. Having the old type of GS911 that worked on the Oilhead and Hexhead, I wasn't going to fork out that kind of money for the new version GS911 as it's cost are just a bit too high. It doesn't give enough added features to warrant the cost. So mine has not had the reminder reset for a couple of years yet with zero negative effect. The reminder comes on during the initial startup phase and once the engine is running....goes out.

So no.....you don't need the new one.

Thanks for the above. Just did the oil change and will do the final drive when replacement crush washers arrive. Imagine my chagrin to discover that my version 1 yellow GS911 will not fit the round connector found under the passenger seat. I have learned that other LC models have a rectangular OBD connector located by the battery. As you all know, the new version GS911 costs 399.00. I've used mine with each service on previous bikes, but rarely learned more than that a heated seat had been left unconnected. It was useful to reset the annoying service reminder. Do I have any options other than just forking over the $$$? I'm afraid I already know the answer. Would it be unwise to ignore the service warnings and soldier on without the version 2 device, as long as the bike is running well and no warning lights show up?

The Wethead requires the WiFi version you can buy it with the OBD-II connection or the round 10 pin connection and add a wire to convert so it works on all bikes old and new. I can't live without the GS911 it just help me change TPMS.

Jay

On 5/12/2018 at 8:35 AM, Alfred02 said:

I have a 2014 Wethead and after the dealer managed to cause more problems then good, I decided to do my own services. I am in the same boat. Having the old type of GS911 that worked on the Oilhead and Hexhead, I wasn't going to fork out that kind of money for the new version GS911 as it's cost are just a bit too high. It doesn't give enough added features to warrant the cost. So mine has not had the reminder reset for a couple of years yet with zero negative effect. The reminder comes on during the initial startup phase and once the engine is running....goes out.

So no.....you don't need the new one.

Just to update my original post.

I "DID" end up buying the new GS911 !!!!!

I ended up with two problems since the dealer did the last service:

1) My screen would not lower after shut off, but stayed at the same height. Great for washing the bike..not so great when you want to cover the bike.

2) Cruise Control stopped working.

I ended up purchasing the new wifi GS911 with the OBD connector and the adapter to the round plug...this with the old yellow GS911 Bluetooth version well and truly covers all bikes, past and present.

1) The GS911 fixed the screen issue by cycling it a few times. Somehow it lost it's end point positions when the dealer also did a software update that involved the Quick Shift.

2) So it appears that BMW decided to use the same method as I have observed on most manufacturers cars (Not just BMW).

If your service is overdue for a while, they start knocking of certain functions (Cruise Control is the most common one). I have seen on cars where if you still haven't gone to the dealer for a "Service" by then...the car ends up in "Limp Mode".

Using the GS911 to reset the Service reminder lo and behold magically fixed the cruise control. I did that over a year ago and the cruise control issue never returned.

Now the service reminder has started coming back on during start up again (it's due for service), so I am just going through the service right now.

Plus on my next brake fluid change ( I just did my 1st ever, so just wanted to get the basics done, as I also changed the Bleeders to Stainless Steel Speed Bleeders at the same time) I am going to cycle the ABS system during the flush.

1 hour ago, Alfred02 said:

Just to update my original post.

I "DID" end up buying the new GS911 !!!!!

I ended up with two problems since the dealer did the last service:

1) My screen would not lower after shut off, but stayed at the same height. Great for washing the bike..not so great when you want to cover the bike.

2) Cruise Control stopped working.

 

I ended up purchasing the new wifi GS911 with the OBD connector and the adapter to the round plug...this with the old yellow GS911 Bluetooth version well and truly covers all bikes, past and present.

 

1) The GS911 fixed the screen issue by cycling it a few times. Somehow it lost it's end point positions when the dealer also did a software update that involved the Quick Shift.

 

2) So it appears that BMW decided to use the same method as I have observed on most manufacturers cars (Not just BMW).

If your service is overdue for a while, they start knocking of certain functions (Cruise Control is the most common one). I have seen on cars where if you still haven't gone to the dealer for a "Service" by then...the car ends up in "Limp Mode".

Using the GS911 to reset the Service reminder lo and behold magically fixed the cruise control. I did that over a year ago and the cruise control issue never returned.

Now the service reminder has started coming back on during start up again (it's due for service), so I am just going through the service right now.

 

Plus on my next brake fluid change ( I just did my 1st ever, so just wanted to get the basics done, as I also changed the Bleeders to Stainless Steel Speed Bleeders at the same time) I am going to cycle the ABS system during the flush.

 

Alfred,

I haven't been to the dealer in 4 years and 5 months (2014R1200RT) and everything works as it should.  If it was easy for me to bring it in to the dealer for a software update I'd do it but it hasn't effected the bike performance in my option.  I do find I need to make sure the cruise control is fully moved to the right or it doesn't work correctly.  It's not an issue since I make sure it's in the correct position when using.  I'm able to increase and decrease speed and reset if I canceled.  I'm embarrassed but I now have a service light on because of time, I last serviced the bike on 7/10/2019.  I'm 525 sMiles away from 6000, this Covid thing has canceled all my trips, like most of us.  It's summer in Texas so that too effects any day rides, but I'll get the miles in and do the service then reset with the GS911.  

Glad you got the GS911 and it's working for you.  The speed bleeders are wonderful, they make servicing the brakes easy and a one person job.