2011 RT oil change

HI

I had my 12K service completed by my BMW service dept and now my bike is coming up on 15K miles. I am going to attempt to change the oil which is all that is due at this mileage I believe. I already have an oil filter wrench attachment but I know I need a crush washer for the drain plug, a new filter and oil. Where would be the best place to buy these items online? If there is anything I have left out (dirt rider) please advise. Thanks guys.

Jon

HI

 

I had my 12K service completed by my BMW service dept and now my bike is coming up on 15K miles. I am going to attempt to change the oil which is all that is due at this mileage I believe. I already have an oil filter wrench attachment but I know I need a crush washer for the drain plug, a new filter and oil. Where would be the best place to buy these items online? If there is anything I have left out (dirt rider) please advise. Thanks guys.

 

Jon

Morning Jon

I don't know about the best place as I usually search around to find what I need at the best price with lowest shipping costs . Plus I have a lot of different bikes so try to stock up on oils that will fit multiple bikes as well as buy filters by the case to reduce cost & lower the per piece shipping costs, as well as always having filters on hand. If I'm in no hurry then Amazon can usually yield some decent prices but for that to work & be cost effective I usually need to buy WAY in advance of any service needed & watch for sale prices (if a good deal is found then I usually buy multiples for future usage)

As far a one place to get all-in-one shipment, with decent quality, & at reasonable prices for a kit that contains what is needed then that would probably be Beemer Boneyard.

You might give them (Beemer Boneyard) a call Customer Service: (973) 775-3495 12pm-5pm EST Mon-Fri as they have a Hexhead kit on sale right now that contains the oil, filter, & crush washer for about $58.00 plus shipping. You can do cheaper by shopping around but the Beemer Boneyard kit is all inclusive, handy, & works with no complaints.

Added: you might let this thread run a for a few days before buying anything as someone is likely to point you to a current deal on what you need.

BMW recommends that you change the oil at 10,000 km or one year intervals, which most folks round off to 6,000 miles, so you are really not yet due for a mileage-based oil change.

Beemer Boneyard offers quality parts and good service at reasonable prices. They also offer a 10% discount to forum members - use the code BMWST at checkout.

BMW recommends that you change the oil at 10,000 km or one year intervals, which most folks round off to 6,000 miles, so you are really not yet due for an oil change.

 

Beemer Boneyard offers quality parts and good service at reasonable prices. They also offer a 10% discount to forum members - use the code BMWST at checkout.

thanks for that info. The dealership shop told me I would need to change the oil 3K after the 12K service so I was going by that. Thanks for that discount code at beemer boneyard.

HI

 

I had my 12K service completed by my BMW service dept and now my bike is coming up on 15K miles. I am going to attempt to change the oil which is all that is due at this mileage I believe. I already have an oil filter wrench attachment but I know I need a crush washer for the drain plug, a new filter and oil. Where would be the best place to buy these items online? If there is anything I have left out (dirt rider) please advise. Thanks guys.

 

Jon

 

Morning Jon

 

I don't know about the best place as I usually search around to find what I need at the best price with lowest shipping costs . Plus I have a lot of different bikes so try to stock up on oils that will fit multiple bikes as well as buy filters by the case to reduce cost & lower the per piece shipping costs, as well as always having filters on hand. If I'm in no hurry then Amazon can usually yield some decent prices but for that to work & be cost effective I usually need to buy WAY in advance of any service needed & watch for sale prices (if a good deal is found then I usually buy multiples for future usage)

 

As far a one place to get all-in-one shipment, with decent quality, & at reasonable prices for a kit that contains what is needed then that would probably be Beemer Boneyard.

 

You might give them (Beemer Boneyard) a call Customer Service: (973) 775-3495 12pm-5pm EST Mon-Fri as they have a Hexhead kit on sale right now that contains the oil, filter, & crush washer for about $58.00 plus shipping. You can do cheaper by shopping around but the Beemer Boneyard kit is all inclusive, handy, & works with no complaints.

 

Added: you might let this thread run a for a few days before buying anything as someone is likely to point you to a current deal on what you need.

 

 

Thanks dirtrider.

 

 

 

 

 

do any of you use a magnetic oil plug? Seems like a good idea. Or is it snake oil?

do any of you use a magnetic oil plug? Seems like a good idea. Or is it snake oil?

Morning Jon

On an engine without a good oil filter then a magnetic drain plug might help a little but on a full flow oil filter engine probably little to no gain using a magnetic drain plug.

Hi - I have used magnetic oil plugs on all of my bikes for years. Mainly because I was curious if they would pickup anything, seeing how a good percentage of engines are aluminum nowadays, I was skeptical.

I found when I change the oil, when the bike is new, there is a fine mound of metal on the little magnet in the plug. As the engine wears, the amount decreases.

The metal the magnet picks up is so fine, that it has a paste consistency, you could literally use it as an oil paint. I have never seen larger particles of metal.

I don't know if that paste would do any engine damage or build up overtime as sludge.

On my 2012 RT with about 55K KM, the total metal/oil paste I have removed from the magnetic plug might of come to a teaspoon.

What I like about the magnetic oil plugs is that they are of better build quality and they take the same size wrench to remove, 13 mm on the ones I have. An unexpected benefit.

I intend to keep my bikes until they wear out, so maybe there will be a small benefit. But for those who upgrade every few years there is probably is no benefit.

I use HiFlo oil filters that are easy to find on the net.

Good luck.

Is there a reason why the 2011 filter is much shorter than the one use on the ollheads? I don't have to change the oil yet on my newly acquired 2011 but the filters are about 1/2 the depth of the Bosch 3330 I have used on the 03.

Looking under both bikes it seems the filter is sized to be almost flush with the engine. Has anyone compared advantage/disadvantage of using a slighter taller filter?

Thanks

Bob

Is there a reason why the 2011 filter is much shorter than the one use on the ollheads? I don't have to change the oil yet on my newly acquired 2011 but the filters are about 1/2 the depth of the Bosch 3330 I have used on the 03.

 

Looking under both bikes it seems the filter is sized to be almost flush with the engine. Has anyone compared advantage/disadvantage of using a slighter taller filter?

 

Thanks

Bob

Afternoon Bob

While the obvious is that an oil filter that sticks down farther is more prone to damage. Or, on the BMW GS more apt to contact the skid plate.

The less obvious is that the filter can (housing) length doesn't always relate to internal filter element length (lots of longer filters have short internal filter elements). You really need to cut the filters open then measure the filter element lengths then cut the filter element apart & stretch it out to get an idea on the total square inches of filtering material. Some (quality) short filters have a good deal more filtration area then longer body cheaper filters.

Even less obvious is the placement of the internal by-pass valve, if the by-pass valve is on the wrong end of the filter then the accumulated crud in the bottom of the filter can by-pass the filtration element with cold (thick oil), or at high RPMs under high oil flow, then get directly into the engine main oiling system.

Less obvious yet is the filter by-pass valve opening pressure as the BMW 1100/1150 engine requires an oil filter with a different by-pass opening pressure than the BMW 1200 engine does--- The 1200 engine requires a 2.5 bar or (36.2 psi) by-pass rated filter & the 1100/1150 engine only required a 1.5 bar or (21.7 psi). Putting an 1100/1150 rated filter on a 1200 engine can result in a much greater amount of oil by-passing the filter element until the oil warms up as well a more oil by-passing the filter element at higher RPM's.

If price is the big factor then shop around in ADVANCE (Personally I usually watch for Mahle or Mann oil filters on sale at places like Amazon, then buy a few ahead with free shipping. (I like to always have a few filters on hand)

The Mahle OC306 filter is same as BMW OEM for the 1200 bike only with a lower price tag. I just bought a case of Mahle OC306 in early spring for $8.88 per filter shipped to my door (bet you pay almost that much for the lower quality Bosch 3330 . The Mann MW75 are identical so will also work & have the correct length, correct internal filter element, & correct by-pass valving.

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I have a couple 3330 that will now go with my 03 when I sell it. The previous owner of the 11 gave me 2 K&N filters. but the oil was recently changed. I just want to make sure to use the proper filters on the 11.

Bob

The 1200 engine requires a 2.5 bar or (36.2 psi) by-pass rated filter & the 1100/1150 engine only required a 1.5 bar or (21.7 psi).

DR... can you explain this a little further. As I understand it the bypass rating of a filter is the psi difference between incoming and outgoing oil which is directly related to the restriction presented by the filter media. The degree of restriction is subject to dirt contained in the media or volume/viscosity of the oil. As the psi value is reached the valve begins to open and the filter media is bypassed.

Why would the engine manufacturer set a required value... seems the oil filter manufacturer would be the one to specify it as a means to protect the filter.

The Mahle OC91 filter (R1150) has a bypass valve which opens at 9-11 psi. How does that correlate to the 21.7 psi you mention. What am I missing?

HI

 

I had my 12K service completed by my BMW service dept and now my bike is coming up on 15K miles. I am going to attempt to change the oil which is all that is due at this mileage I believe. I already have an oil filter wrench attachment but I know I need a crush washer for the drain plug, a new filter and oil. Where would be the best place to buy these items online? If there is anything I have left out (dirt rider) please advise. Thanks guys.

 

Jon

Although checking valve clearance every 12k is probably more than sufficient, IIRC, BMW actually recommends checking it every 6k miles.

Afternoon Craig G

DR... can you explain this a little further.

As I understand it the bypass rating of a filter is the psi difference between incoming and outgoing oil which is directly related to the restriction presented by the filter media. The degree of restriction is subject to dirt contained in the media or volume/viscosity of the oil. As the psi value is reached the valve begins to open and the filter media is bypassed.--Yes, this pretty well covers it.

Why would the engine manufacturer set a required value... seems the oil filter manufacturer would be the one to specify it as a means to protect the filter.--Probably because the oil filter manufacture has no idea on the oil viscosity that is going to be used, or the oil temperature that the oil will operate at, or the oil volume that will be flowing through the filter.

The Mahle OC91 filter (R1150) has a bypass valve which opens at 9-11 psi. How does that correlate to the 21.7 psi you mention. What am I missing?-- I have no idea, as alI I know is what BMW specifies for by-pass specifications. I have no idea if Mahle & BMW even use the same rating standards.

About I can say is: BMW changed their stated by-pass info between the 1100/1150 & the 1200 & do use a different filter on the 1200 vs what was used on the 1100/1150.

Ok... thx.

The OC91 is supposedly the filter BMW relabels as thier own so the spec should be what BMW specified. What got me started was discovering that my favorite filter bypasses at 12-17 psi.

I just changed the oil and filter on my, new to me, '11 RT.  I removed a BMW OEM filter and installed an HiFlo-Filtro HF-164 filter.  The filter is pretty far up in the crankcase which makes getting a wrench on it difficult.  And I'd like to have a few words with the knucklehead who torqued the existing filter in place.  It was a bitch to get off.

I have a collection of 3/8 drive oil filter sockets that I've acquired over the years.  I have two that are the right diameter to fit over the filter but neither will grip the perimeter contours of the Hiflo-Filtro HF-164 filter's body.   Can anyone point me to a source for a filter socket that'll fit the Hiflo-Filtro HF164?  I'm keen to add yet another to my collection.  :-)

Thanks.

1 hour ago, pwillikers said:

I just changed the oil and filter on my, new to me, '11 RT.  I removed a BMW OEM filter and installed an HiFlo-Filtro HF-164 filter.  The filter is pretty far up in the crankcase which makes getting a wrench on it difficult.  And I'd like to have a few words with the knucklehead who torqued the existing filter in place.  It was a bitch to get off.

 

I have a collection of 3/8 drive oil filter sockets that I've acquired over the years.  I have two that are the right diameter to fit over the filter but neither will grip the perimeter contours of the Hiflo-Filtro HF-164 filter's body.   Can anyone point me to a source for a filter socket that'll fit the Hiflo-Filtro HF164?  I'm keen to add yet another to my collection.  :-)

 

Thanks.

Evening pwillikers

I believe that Hiflo-Filtro HF-164 uses a  (76mm with 12 Flutes) filter wrench. 

Count the flutes on your HF-164 to verify 12, then if you have a way of measuring the diameter verify that is 76mm or just slightly smaller. 

You can try your local auto parts stores as that is a fairly common filter wrench.

If not then maybe try  Amazon..............         

    https://www.amazon.com/KiWAV-Filter-Wrench-Removal-flutes/dp/B00IZGDV6G/ref=sr_1_2?crid=IA7TO7UFZNS3&keywords=oil+filter+wrench+76mm+12+flutes&qid=1683922450&sprefix=76mm+12+Flutes+filter+wrench%2Caps%2C112&sr=8-2

DR, you certainly have a brain full of MC minutia and it is to our mutual benefit.  Thank you.

You are correct (of course).   The Hiflo-Filtro HF164 is in fact 76mm with 12 flutes.

Here's a wrench for $9. all in.  And here's the filter I installed.  It cost around $8 and came printed as an Hiflo-Filtro HF-164 even though the listing doesn't identify it as that brand.  Same factory?  I don't know.  It does look to be of very good quality and I can tolerate a six week shipping time from China since I just changed the oil and won't have to do so again for quite sometime.

Personally I do not believe you need a new crush washer. It's good to have one in case the old one wwas damaged but this is unlikely. Do not over torque the drain plug. Use a drop of Loctite 222 if you have concerns it might come loose.

12 hours ago, 009jim said:

Personally I do not believe you need a new crush washer. It's good to have one in case the old one wwas damaged but this is unlikely. 

Also, you can quickly and easily anneal a used copper washer with a little butane lighter.  The copper gets "work hardened" very quickly as a crush washer and won't seal as well.  Aluminum, too, but it also melts easily.

This kit comes in very handy for oil changes and banjo fittings and only $11:

Here's what I use when changing oil for my 2013RT:

- copper crush seal: NAPA part #704-1365  - about $2.00

- Hiflofiltro HF164 Premium Oil Filter, about $10.00

- Motul 7100 15W-50 full synthetic oil, about $50.00

I used this video for my old oilhead the basic sequence still applies for my camhead, particularly with the advice on torqueing the filter and the drain plug: