Matts_12GS Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 Bike won't crank, dash looks fine, no error codes. Tried to jump and had same result. Any ideas on what to try next? 2005 GS, 91000 miles Link to comment
Matts_12GS Posted May 25, 2018 Author Share Posted May 25, 2018 Not sure how to check it remotely, that was my thoughts too Link to comment
greiffster Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 (edited) Matt, Actually, I don't think it will prevent it from cranking in neutral. So probably not it. Edited May 25, 2018 by greiffster Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 Bike won't crank, dash looks fine, no error codes. Tried to jump and had same result. Any ideas on what to try next? 2005 GS, 91000 miles Afternoon Matt I'm out on the road also so don't have any of my 1200 info with me (on my 800GS this weekend). It could easily be your side stand switch as the 1200 bike use a 3 wire switch with a checksum so if the switch fails it can definitely give you a no crank. You mention codes so do you have a GS 911 with you?? If so see this link http://www.hexcode.co.za/techinfo/sidestand Otherwise try jumping the outermost wires at the side stand switch connector together. Is your dash neutral light on ??????????? Link to comment
greiffster Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 Well, if it is the sidestand switch, check out this link...... Link to comment
Matts_12GS Posted May 25, 2018 Author Share Posted May 25, 2018 DR, I'll check the wires. I don't have a GS911 handy, but will check when I get home. I'll see if I can get a paper clip here to jump the switch Link to comment
greiffster Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 I keep this little note on my phone if the sidestand switch goes out..... "Side stand switch bypass tie red and white together at the switch. OR tie brown/green together with yellow/green on the chassis side of the connector (left side of tank)" Full disclosure, I've never had to use it. Link to comment
Lone_RT_rider Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 Full disclosure, I've never had to use it. Now you've done it. JINX! Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 I keep this little note on my phone if the sidestand switch goes out..... "Side stand switch bypass tie red and white together at the switch. OR tie brown/green together with yellow/green on the chassis side of the connector (left side of tank)" Full disclosure, I've never had to use it. Afternoon greiffster You don't have to remember wire colors as they are different on different applications, just remember to jump the to outermost wires at the switch connector. (there are 3 wires in the connector so just jump the outer wires). Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 Afternoon Matt Is your kill switch turned on? I can't remember on the 1200GS but on the 1200RT the dash will light OK with the kill switch turned off & key turned on but fuel gauge goes blank with kill switch turned off. Link to comment
Matts_12GS Posted May 25, 2018 Author Share Posted May 25, 2018 DR, kill switch is on. It blanks fuel as expected when turned. I have tried switching it while holding start button in the event it's the issue Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 Afternoon Matt The little starter solenoid wire didn't come off the solenoid terminal did it? (something to check anyhow) Link to comment
Matts_12GS Posted May 25, 2018 Author Share Posted May 25, 2018 Ill check under the cover Link to comment
Matts_12GS Posted May 25, 2018 Author Share Posted May 25, 2018 Doesn't seem to be the sidestand switch Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 Afternoon Matt Definitely no EWS ( Elektronische Wegfahr Sperr) showing on the dash with key on either full time or intermittently? Link to comment
Matts_12GS Posted May 25, 2018 Author Share Posted May 25, 2018 Afternoon Matt Definitely no EWS ( Elektronische Wegfahr Sperr) showing on the dash with key on either full time or intermittently? No. I have now warning lights at all. I used a jumper on the stand switch to no avail. Beginning to think battery or starter. Unless that yellow relay under the seat died Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 Afternoon Matt Definitely no EWS ( Elektronische Wegfahr Sperr) showing on the dash with key on either full time or intermittently? No. I have now warning lights at all. I used a jumper on the stand switch to no avail. Beginning to think battery or starter. Unless that yellow relay under the seat died Can you feel the yellow relay (starter relay) click when you push the start button? If all else fails unplug that little wire on the starter solenoid then jump the little solenoid terminal to the large starter B+ post (make sure key is on & trans in in neutral). If no crankie then either a bad battery or bad starter. Link to comment
Matts_12GS Posted May 25, 2018 Author Share Posted May 25, 2018 I can't feel the relay doing anything when I try to start the motor. I'll jump the starter when I get it home. Link to comment
Matts_12GS Posted May 26, 2018 Author Share Posted May 26, 2018 I tried a starter relay from my local Auto zone and still no joy. I pulled the cover off the starter and tired to jump from my portable power pack without success. I've jump started the bike with the pack several times so I figured it would be enough to work on the starter. Any thoughts? Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 26, 2018 Share Posted May 26, 2018 I tried a starter relay from my local Auto zone and still no joy. I pulled the cover off the starter and tired to jump from my portable power pack without success. I've jump started the bike with the pack several times so I figured it would be enough to work on the starter. Any thoughts? Evening Matts Depending on your starter pack it might not have enough oomph to run the starter against engine compression. When you jump start the bike your starter pack is working in conjunction with some additional current supplied by the bike's battery. Try jumping the small terminal on the starter solenoid to the large terminal that the battery cable hooks to (No starter pack just use the bikes factory battery hookup). If still no crank then put your starter pack on the battery posts & try it again. Or, if you have a voltmeter, put that across the battery posts THEN jump the small solenoid terminal to the large terminal & see what the battery voltage is during attempted cranking. (should be above 10 volts with starter turning). If below 10 volts then try jumping off a (non running) car the do the cranking voltage test again. You need to start the diagnosis somewhere & verifying that the starter CAN crank the engine is a great starting point. If you can get it to crank by jumping the starter solenoid, then move up stream & see if you can get it to crank by jumping the starter relay socket B+ (terminal 87) to wire going to the starter solenoid terminal (30). If will crank there then you know that your problem lies with fueling computer or inputs into the computer, or the wiring between computer & starter relay. Link to comment
Matts_12GS Posted May 26, 2018 Author Share Posted May 26, 2018 I put a circuit tester on those leads and I have power and ground respectively. I'll switch it on and see if I can get a jumper between those two (the big one the battery is attached to and the smaller ground below it). Link to comment
Matts_12GS Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 Try jumping the small terminal on the starter solenoid to the large terminal that the battery cable hooks to (No starter pack just use the bikes factory battery hookup). If still no crank then put your starter pack on the battery posts & try it again. This small terminal, is it the ground lug that attaches the solenoid to the armature, or the small wire connection? Link to comment
Matts_12GS Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 Ok, problem identified.... Corroded and broken wire under the ignition relay mounting block. I'm looking at connectors to replace it and I'll be back on the road. Thank you again DR. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 Ok, problem identified.... Corroded and broken wire under the ignition relay mounting block. I'm looking at connectors to replace it and I'll be back on the road. Thank you again DR. Afternoon Matts Glad you found the problem. For future reference here is the starter solenoid jumping points defined. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 Afternoon Matt When you have it all repaired & back up & starting make sure to re-install the original starter relay as most auto store relays are not internally suppressed. The original BMW relay has an internal resistor across the pull-in coil legs to clip the voltage spike as the relay coil collapses when it shuts off. That starter relay connects directly to the fueling computer so you don't want to send a voltage spike back into the computer after every engine starting. Link to comment
Matts_12GS Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 Thanks for that tip. I'm about to button it up and this was perfect timing! Link to comment
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