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1150RT '02 Fork seal replacement


Alba

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Hi,

 

My left fork has stated to leak and I came across

Youtube video on how to replace the seal, is the seal removal tool a must? If so does anyone know where I can get this in he UK?

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

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Hi,

 

My left fork has stated to leak and I came across

Youtube video on how to replace the seal, is the seal removal tool a must? If so does anyone know where I can get this in he UK?

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Morning Alba

 

No, you don't necessarily need a dedicated seal removal tool as the seal can be pried out using anything from a small tire spoon to the large flat blade screwdriver. No matter what you use just be very careful that you protect the top of the fork tube to prevent damage to the soft tube top as you pry. (I have a small 10" flat tire spoon with a offset end that works very good for prying out seals)

 

It seems that a lot of those old BMW's start leaking at the fork seals in the spring time. Partly due to the forks not cycling during storage & partially due to the bikes being stored on the center stand with the forks extended. That allows air to seep in past the seals & pressurize the oil chamber at nominal ride height.

 

As long as a large quantity of fork oil hasn't been pushed out you can sometimes stop the leaking without taking the forks apart.

 

First, put the bike on the center stand to extend the forks, then pry the top (dust excluder) seal up & slide it up the fork tube, then use something like WD-40 to clean the fork tubes, then use a little WD-40 & a piece of old 35mm film strip to work down around the lower seal to clean the dirt & old soap out (best you can).

 

Next, use that 35mm film strip or very thin feeler gauge to hold the seal lip slightly away from the fork tube & work as much automatic transmission seal conditioner (trans seal) in & around the seal lip at the fork tube interface as possible.

 

Next, lower the bike onto the side stand then try to work that very thin feeler gauge or a narrow piece of film strip down between the seal lips & fork tube (this lets the trapped air out & neutralizes the inside pressure).

 

Next, slide the top dust excluder seal back down & seat it.

 

Then, using something to hold the dust excluder seal lips out a little drip a little transmission seal conditioner down past the seal lips.

 

Then ride the bike & at every end-of-ride use a rag to wipe the slider tube clean & wipe off the excess transmission seal conditioner. It a lot of cases this will stop the seal leakage & more times than not stop the seal leakage for a long/long/long time.

 

The usual cause of seal leakage isn't a worn out seal but more due to soap & road grime getting between the seal & fork tube.

 

 

 

 

 

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Michaelr11
Hi,

 

My left fork has stated to leak and I came across

Youtube video on how to replace the seal, is the seal removal tool a must? If so does anyone know where I can get this in he UK?

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

 

Also take a look at this video,

 

 

K12LT but the fork seal replacement is the same on the RT. He does from below, by removing the front wheel. I found this method to be easier. And, no - you don't need the seal puller. Careful use of any lever will do it.

Link to comment
Hi,

 

My left fork has stated to leak and I came across

Youtube video on how to replace the seal, is the seal removal tool a must? If so does anyone know where I can get this in he UK?

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

 

Also take a look at this video,

 

 

K12LT but the fork seal replacement is the same on the RT. He does from below, by removing the front wheel. I found this method to be easier. And, no - you don't need the seal puller. Careful use of any lever will do it.

 

 

Afternoon Michaelr11

 

How do you bleed the trapped air pressure out of the forks tubes after doing an 1100 or 1150 from below?

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Lincoln_Faller

Just to say I followed Dirtrider's instructions a couple of years ago on my 1150rt on a leaking fork tube and no problem since. If you can't find 35mm film any more, I couldn't, you can use a piece of thin plastic of the sort that comes in supermarket packaging of cookies and pastries. Just get rid of the sugar and crumbs :) . I cut a piece into a J-shape so that there was a hook on the end to extract any debris that might be causing a leak.

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I like the idea of first removing any debris from the fork tube/seal interface because it's less invasive. Soon after I bought my 1999 R1100RT @ ~65,000 miles, the left fork developed a fairly bad leak. I cleaned everything up, drained and replaced the fork oil with a mix of 75% 10 Wt fork oil + 25% transmission seal fluid. The RT is now at 130,000 miles, and the fork has never leaked again. All this was done without removing any bodywork or the front wheel.

 

s-l640.jpg

 

I don't remember the details clearly, but I think I did this:

 

1. Pull both fork tubes (amazingly easy with the telelever suspension). [i did [b]not[/b] pull the sliders]

2. Clean tubes thoroughly, with 0000 steel wool

3. Suck out the old oil (and a surprising amount of dreck) with a turkey baster and a length of vinyl tubing

4. Wipe the lips of the seals with 91% isopropanol, then apply a light coat of fork oil

5. Reinsert the fork tubes

6. Fill to the same level as measured from the non-leaking side

7. Pump the suspension up and down to remove any air, then measure again

 

Assuming the R1150 forks are the same as R1100, the service manual says to use 0.470 ml (0.827 imperial pints) of telescopic fork oil.

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Michaelr11

Afternoon Michaelr11

 

How do you bleed the trapped air pressure out of the forks tubes after doing an 1100 or 1150 from below?

 

There is a 3 mm bleed screw at the top of the fork tube, just underneath the triple tree.

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[There is a 3 mm bleed screw at the top of the fork tube, just underneath the triple tree.

 

Thanks for pointing that out; if you want to remove the fork tubes, loosen the bleed screw first, otherwise you'll be pulling a vacuum.

 

Too late to edit my post and add this details.

Edited by Selden
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Just to say I followed Dirtrider's instructions a couple of years ago on my 1150rt on a leaking fork tube and no problem since. If you can't find 35mm film any more, I couldn't, you can use a piece of thin plastic of the sort that comes in supermarket packaging of cookies and pastries. Just get rid of the sugar and crumbs :) . I cut a piece into a J-shape so that there was a hook on the end to extract any debris that might be causing a leak.

 

Slight hijack, I have tons of old black and white negatives from my 35mm darkroom days that I'll be happy to send to anyone, needing 35mm film.

 

RPG

 

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Thanks for the follow up comment's :thumbsup:

 

I'm living with the slight leak at the moment will fix next weekend.

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I am currently changing seals on two r1150's. So I needed 2 pairs of seals and dust covers. My local dealer wanted $187 for that quantity. I got them shipped to my door via Amazon for $34. I wanted to support the dealer but could not justify the cost.

Shane

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I don't know part numbers, but here is the seller and description. You should be able to search with that.

 

i5motorcycle

ARI Fork Oil Seals & Dust Seals for BMW Honda Kawasaki Suzuki Yamaha

Be the first to review this item

Price: $14.95 + $3.95 shipping

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  • 2 weeks later...

Quick update: I decided to remove the fork in question and thoroughly clean the dust cover, fork and fork seal. Apart from losing the bleed screw for 20 mins and getting the zip tie cable holder off (15 mins), pretty easy job. 30 min sake down run and it's looking good, let's see what the coming week brings.

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szurszewski

I have also ordered seal sets from amazon - there are several resellers of the Moose Racing seal sets which I have had good luck with. I paid a little more (areound $20 or so per set). The only bike I still have that has them has about 40,000 miles on the amazon sourced seals and they are working as new.

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FYI, Ordered these on ebay and installed them last month (2005 R1150RT-P). No problems at all with them.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-R1150RT-2000-2006-Fork-Seal-and-Wiper-Set/401344382170?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

Keith

 

Update: As I recall, the actual item (Fork & Dust Seal kit) was from these people:

 

www.allballsracing.com/56-115.html

 

To remove the old fork seal, I used this part from Amazon:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRCKG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

(Because of the limited working space around the forks, with the forks still installed on the bike, I had to grind down the top of the tool to change the fulcrum (leverage) point.)

 

Edited by Keith_A
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I did the seals on both RT's this week as part of prep for a ride through northern BC. The seals I ordered looked good and worked fine.

I also installed a new starter on Macy's bike, new tires on both bikes, air filter, all fluids, and various other preventive measures. Looking forward to the camping trip.

16 days, 4500+miles.

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