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BMSX Lambda-Shifting (AF-XIED)


roger 04 rt

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roger 04 rt

Those who followed the Wideband O2 thread in the Oilhead forum know that I did extensive testing on lambda-shifting technology on R1150s, R1100s and R1200s through the Camhead. On my R1150RT, the Innovate Motorsports LC-1 brought performance benefits and gave me extensive AFR datalogging capability, which allowed me to measure and document many of the Motronic's and BMSK's features which had long been unknown. Wideband O2 Testing on the R1150RT

 

In short, lambda-shifting technology modifies the O2 sensor signal in such a way that the Motronic, BMSK or BMSX (in the Wethead) is persuaded to richen the mixture by 2-8% (user selectable). Because of long term trims which are in all BMW fueling computers, the fueling gains which are “learned” in Closed Loop during lambda-shifting get applied to the entire fueling map. This means there is a richer mixture from idle right up through WOT.

 

I've been riding a 2017 R1200RTW now for a few months and like everything about the bike, including its performance and fueling. I was surprised that compared to my 2004 R1150RT with 8% richer mixture, the stock RTW required higher RPMs before up-shifting but the engine is really smooth so it wasn't an issue that needed to be “fixed”. I have also noticed that compared to my 1150, the RTW needs more fuel from a stop to get going—but that too, I adapted to.

 

Many of you may be aware that Nightrider.com's AF-XIED has been removed as an upgrade product for the R1200 water-cooled bikes. The problem that caused the AF-XIED to be pulled from new water cooled bikes is that BMW added a new O2 Sensor test (BOST, BMW O2 Test) in 2016 that caused the BMSX to generate an error code, which kept the engine from entering Closed Loop operation, defeating the function of lambda-shifting. Worse yet, BMW kindly added that test to older bikes' software updates so bikes which had been running fine with AF-XIEDs stopped working. To my knowledge, no one has added LC-2s to a water-cooled bike, but they won't work either.

 

Over the last year, a couple of us have been helping Steve at Nightrider to figure out what the BOST is, and a way around it. The first software solution to the AF-XIED (Rev G Software) looked promising initially but didn't work. Then we generated a better model for what the test was doing and came up with a hardware Relay Adapter Module (RAM) that has been through Beta testing and recently Pre-Production units on various RTWs and GSAWs. Nightrider plans to release a couple dozen units for final checking in the field.

 

Since I finally had an RTW, I became one of the the Beta testers. The bottom line is that the RAM functions to allow the BOST to PASS so that lambda-shifting will function and produce richer mixtures for riders with AF-XIEDs installed. The add-on RAM will work for all existing AF-XIEDs for BMW motorcycles.

 

I got a set of RAMs and AF-XIEDs to test on my 2017 R1200RTW about a month ago. The testing went well and the units worked. Because of the RTW's generally good manners and strong performance, I didn't expect to notice a dramatic improvement. Boy was I wrong! Lambda-shifting (Setting 7 on the AF-XIED) produced much better performance off the line, much better torque response between 1500 and 3000 RPM, and to my great surprise much better gearshift-pro performance. Off the line the bike requires much less throttle to get going without stalling, even allowing starts easily in 2nd gear. At riding speeds, just as with my R1150RT, I'm generally riding one gear higher (e.g. 6th instead of 5th) when acceleration isn't the objective. The bike accelerates much more eagerly at 2000 RPM and less downshifting is required. I'm not saying I always ride like a poke—far from it—but when I'm cruising or in traffic, the bike needs a lot less downshifting to feel comfortable.

 

The operation of Gearshift-Pro has changed noticeably, especially from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. It's smoother, with less tendency to lurch. And the effect is true for up and downshifts. I now use Gearshift-Pro most of the time—light and heavy throttle.

 

I'll be doing more riding—and less testing—over the next month and look forward to additional improvements as the Long Term Trims develop further as I ride more.

 

For those of you interested, keep in touch with Beemerboneyard and Nightrider. They should have some units soon that will likely first go to riders who had bought AF-XIEDs and whose bikes had updated/problem software and who have GS-911s so they can confirm the results we've seen on the test bikes.

Edited by roger 04 rt
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I think this post needs a glossary. AFR, BMSK, BMSX, AF-XIED, BOST, PASS, RAM?

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roger 04 rt

It does take a bit of technology to get more torque out of our stock R1200s.

 

By richening the air-to-fuel ratio (AFR) of our BMSX or BMSK (the engine fueling and ignition timing computer) you can get better torque and throttle response. An AF-XIED is a product made by Nightrider.com (and sold by Beemerboneyard) which worked great until BMW created a new Oxygen Sensor Test (that I called BOST so I wouldn't have to type so much) that took away the ability to richen the mixture. Nightrider came up with a Relay Adapter Module (that i abbreviated as RAM) that fixes the problem allowing the BOST test to pass (which I mis-typed PASS).

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Hopefully the relay adapter module is the fix. I have an AF-XIED in the tool box that worked great on my camhead and I would love to put it on the GSW.

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So Roger, you are pleased with the results. Would you say that in most day to day usage your fuel consumption has increased accordingly?

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roger 04 rt

Most of my time so far has been spent trying to find a way to make the Relay Adapter module fail. On that front, it looks good.

 

I can't say that I've noticed any change in gas mileage but I haven't looked closely. Around town I don't expect much difference because I'm naturally upshifting sooner. On the highway above 60 I'd think 1-2 mpg.

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aggieengineer

Thank you for the detailed explanation of the state of affairs on the RTW. I have been using the AF-XIED on my 2008 RT with great satisfaction, but plan to get one of the newer boxers. I wondered about the fueling, and you have answered that question thoroughly.

My wife and I will be touring in Europe later this year on a rented RTW. I'll be curious to see how it compares with my 10-year-old (but well-tuned) machine.

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  • 1 month later...
roger 04 rt

The Relay Adapter Module for the AF-XIED on Water Cooled bikes has been installed on several bikes now and all are working properly, without throwing any codes. (Only the Water Cooled bikes had a problem.)

 

As a result Nightrider is producing small quantities that will be available at Beemerboneyard and on the Nightrider.com site. Volumes will ramp up in the coming weeks.

Edited by roger 04 rt
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AdirondackJack

Any idea if the wethead kits are actually available for sale at the Boneyard?

 

Inquiring minds want to know, Roger.

 

Thanks,

 

Dave R.

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roger 04 rt

I'm not sure who has what inventory but I know that Steve (Nightrider) would like Beemerboneyard to handle most of the sales/support moving forward. Mike at BB is great to work with, just give him a call.

Edited by roger 04 rt
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AdirondackJack

Just a little update: the few Ram kits that Mike has will go to take care of folks who had previously purchased the AF-XIED kits for the wetheads to retrofit and improve compatibility. He says he will be ordering more for the wetheads soon, so anyone interested should give him a call for availability.

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Oldironken

Roger - i am curious how this affects mileage on the RTW? Is it better or worse given similar riding styles before and after.

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roger 04 rt

It's usually about the same on average for setting 7. A little better around town because it's likely you will naturally upshift sooner. On the highway a little worse due to the richer mixture. Some report better overall mileage some a little worse. I could go into more detail if you want.

Edited by roger 04 rt
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Oldironken

No need, that is helpful. I do like the idea of being able to use a higher gear at lower RPM and still have some pull available. - Thanks!

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  • 4 weeks later...
LittleBriar

I recently bought something very similar for my new Yamaha FZ-07. This bike suffered severely from the new EU emission standards. The throttle was like a toggle switch and surged like crazy. Couple hundred miles after installed, the transformation was incredible. The other option was to send the ECU into a tuner to get it re-flashed. The beauty of the Lambda shifters are they will auto adjust when adding things like new exhaust systems too.

I just ordered one from Beemer Boneyard.

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  • 1 month later...
Does anyone know or have experience with the BMW R1200 RT LE MAGNUM Dyno-Boost Motorcycle Performance Chip? I know that night rider has fixed the AF-XIED. The link for the Dyno-Boost is https://www.magnumtuning.com/en/deta...mw/r1200-rt-le

They provide a 10 year warranty and said all their products have been thoroughly tested. I have not seen there product on any forum.

 

Afternoon Prz42

 

I'm not familiar with that product but when I went to their web site & started reading when I got to the "Dyno-Boost ECU chip delivers 15 % extra horsepower and torque throughout the RPM range without compromise of engine durability or reliability" I shut the door & left. The 15 % extra horsepower brag is all I needed to see to know what they are about.

 

 

 

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roger 04 rt

You really should start a thread on your own, not hijack this one.

 

I took at look at the Magnum a while ago, and again just now. It's a uniquely awful product. Let me list some of the reasons:

 

1. There's no info on how it works or what it does, just a list of specious benefits.

 

2. It adds resistance to the air temp sensor lead but has no probe and provides no temperature compensation. And besides, even a good temp shifter does nothing.

 

3. To install the temp shifter resistor you have to cut the motorcycle's wiring harness.

 

4. You add wires to the O2 sensor to short circuit the signal lead, either permanently or with an oscillator. That technique won't shift lambda but will likely create error codes.

 

5. There are no OEM connectors, you're cutting and splicing wires so there's no easy way to reverse the process.

 

6. It's expensive, given that it does nothing.

 

7. There's no aftermarket when you realize it won't work. (Unlike a BoosterPlug where there are plenty of believers to sell to later.)

 

Hope this helps you.

Edited by roger 04 rt
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  • 2 weeks later...

Just last weekend I installed a new AF-XIED kit on my 2018 RTW.

Only a little local riding so far but it noticeably smoothed out the low throttle positions and RPMs.

I Velcro'd the units to the rear fender and tie-wrapped the relay boxes farther aft, all under the passenger seat.

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AdirondackJack
Just last weekend I installed a new AF-XIED kit on my 2018 RTW.

Only a little local riding so far but it noticeably smoothed out the low throttle positions and RPMs.

I Velcro'd the units to the rear fender and tie-wrapped the relay boxes farther aft, all under the passenger seat.

 

Hi John!

 

Do you by any chance have pis of your install, so those of us who have the same install planned can see how you carried out your install?

 

Thanks,

 

Dave R.

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AdirondackJack

To follow up on my last post (in lieu of photos). . . . . .Couple questions:

 

1. Is it necessary to remove the tank on a 15 RTWC in order to place the tee in line on the 02 Sensor wire?

2. What is the recommended location in the bike for the rest of the gear that comes with the kit?

 

I looked at Youtube to find videos on this install, but the ones that were there were there were less than illuminating,

all due respect.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Dave R.

 

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To follow up on my last post (in lieu of photos). . . . . .Couple questions:

 

1. Is it necessary to remove the tank on a 15 RTWC in order to place the tee in line on the 02 Sensor wire?

2. What is the recommended location in the bike for the rest of the gear that comes with the kit?

 

I looked at Youtube to find videos on this install, but the ones that were there were there were less than illuminating,

all due respect.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Dave R.

Good evening Dave.

No need to remove the tank on the R1200RT-LC bikes.

I haven't installed the setup on my own bike yet, but talking to Roger (04 RT) it sounds like a very simple setup.

The disconnect for the O2 Sensors is just below the cylinder heads, above the exhaust system. Then run the wires up the frame tubes to the area below the riders seat.

The boxes (no adjustment knobs) can be located behind the body work, just below the riders seat.

The adjustable boxes could be mounted under the rider seat if you use it in the high position. There should be enough room on top the silver metal item, to attach them by velcro.

Connect the ground wires to the battery direct.

 

 

 

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Here's a rough idea of my mounting under the front seat with the adjuster in “H”.

 

The red box area is where the two AF-XIED cables emerge after coming up the sides. The first RAM and AF-XIED are positioned under the seat.

afx1.jpeg

 

Here you can see both pairs of AF-XIEDs and RAMs located under the front seat.

afx2.jpeg

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AdirondackJack

Thanks Guys!

 

This is really helpful. I seem to do much better with photos, rather than prose. I did notice that installation on the RTWC must be so new, that it isn't covered very well in the instructions that came with the units. I also initially thought a mistake had been made, and that Steve sent me a double order of what I needed. It wasn't until your posts above (thanks to Bernie and Roger) that I realized the entire system is made up of (2) complete sets of units (1 set for each cylinder). Makes sense once you step back and think about it. I am assuming that where you place the tee is right where it plugs into the 02 sensor, sitting atop the exhaust, Correct? I will address this later today when I get a minute.

 

Can't tell you how much I appreciate the assistance, guys. Frankly, the instructions (while very esoteric on electrical theory and the science and engineering involved) are not very clear as to the basics of how to hook-up this great farkle . I have some experience struggling with this issue on the manufacturing side, as we wrote a 2-page set of instructions with plenty of drawings and photos with arrows for folks wanting to install our Original Grip Buddies®. I can almost install a set blind-folded in about 3 minutes, but to the uninitiated, the task is greatly facilitated by what I'd like to think is our great set of installation instructions.

 

Thanks again!

 

Best,

 

Dave R.

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David - as Roger noted in his install, the seat is in the "H" position - if you use the "L" position, you may find the seat bottom 'pinches' the wiring and RAM unit - I dremeled a relief in the housing of my units to make sure there was clearance for the wires as well as allowing the housing to protect the wiring - you can see a small 'scarf' in the wiring harness where the seat pan was starting to make contact with the harness, pinching it against the RAM housing.

 

The installation of the units from the O2 sensors up to the seat area is fairly straight forward if you have smaller mitts - large mitts will be a challenge - unplugging the O2 sensor from the main harness is a bit tricky until you figure out how to release the connection - small mirror and flashlight may help you see how to release it.

 

I've got a '15RT with 22K miles and current BMSK software and mine likes setting "9" - still had a bit of a surge at "8" but with "9" completely gone. I am running NGK LMAR9AI-8 spark plugs which are 1 step cooler than factory.

 

The '14 GSA prefers "7" on the units as "8" is too fat - stumbles a bit off idle - pretty obvious when she's too rich and you'll find a bit of the surge when she's too lean.

 

I think you'll find the units will bring a very nice improvement in the idle, off idle torque and overall performance and smoothness of the bike.

 

 

Modified%20RAM%20housing.jpg

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AdirondackJack

Thanks for the info Tactical1. I began looking at the plug I need to free up in order to hook in the AF-XIED on each side. You are certainly correct that it is a PIA to release without breaking the plastic retention clip. I will study it tomorrow morning some more, before I attempt to unplug the connection. This is where I regret selling my bike lift because it was so bulky and took up so much room in my garage. It would be so much easier if I could lift this thing up into the air and not be scrunched down lying on my side to try and work on the plug. I think I will start with setting #7 first off, since I think this bike has the OEM sparkplugs installed. Do you think that the plugs you are using have any effect on which Lambda setting is best for your bike? I will report back after I have done the hook up. . . . . . . . probably tomorrow, if I get at least 1 uninterrupted hour to focus on this deal. Will advise.

 

Thanks again for the helpful tips.

 

Best,

 

Dave R.

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Morning Dave - I think you are on the right track with a patient process to get the clip undone - as I recall, the connector is held to the engine and it sort of slides off once the connector tab is released, then the connector O2 to main harness needs to be unplugged, again with a retention clip - small screwdriver and very light pressure to release the tab.

 

Somewhere amongst all the internet threads was the recommendation to try the NGK iridium sparkplugs one heat range cooler and I've always subscribed to running the coldest plugs w/o fouling - the NGK rep gave a presentation at one of the BMW meets and said while following the factory recommendations are good, sometimes they are looking at emissions, etc and not necessarily performance - and suggested, "for offroad and racing" to experiment with colder plugs til they started fouling. "7" is probably the best starting point and I think you will see an immediate improvement in the performance of the bike - before you do the install, try running at 3-3200 rpm, steady throttle, level road in 3rd or 4th gear and see if you feel the surge - not all bikes seem to have it or a lot of riders just drive through it - if it's present, then you've got a base line for your adjustments once the AF-XIED's are installed and you can adjust til the surge is gone. Using cruise control doesn't work well because there seems to be a bit of tolerance built into the platform - your wrist will do a much better job.

 

I run non-ethanol 91 octane most of the time - fortunate to have a local station -

 

Have fun and keep me posted!

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I installed these a while back on my 16 RT (35,000 miles). I've put about a thousand miles since installed. I noticed an improvement in lower rpm response as others have stated. I have them set on 7. I have been disappointed in the mileage. My mileage has dropped about 10% under various conditions. I got 39 mph during a lively ride through the twisties in SE Ohio. I got 40 mph on the interstate at 80 mph. I got 41 mph on state hwy at about 65 mph. It didn't make a difference between 89 or 93 octane fuel. That drop in mileage makes a big difference in range. If I don't figure out a way to improve mileage, I may take them off. The improvement in responsiveness isn't worth the loss of range to me. Just my .02.

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I'll get some pics posted.

I routed my cabling a bit differently.

I tie-wrapped the white connectors from the O2 sensors on the upper frame rails under the side covers.

Then I could hide the 4 boxes under the passenger seat, leaving the space under the rider's saddle open and clear.

 

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AdirondackJack

Somewhere amongst all the internet threads was the recommendation to try the NGK iridium sparkplugs one heat range cooler and I've always subscribed to running the coldest plugs w/o fouling - the NGK rep gave a presentation at one of the BMW meets and said while following the factory recommendations are good, sometimes they are looking at emissions, etc and not necessarily performance - and suggested, "for offroad and racing" to experiment with colder plugs til they started fouling. "7" is probably the best starting point and I think you will see an immediate improvement in the performance of the bike - before you do the install, try running at 3-3200 rpm, steady throttle, level road in 3rd or 4th gear and see if you feel the surge - not all bikes seem to have it or a lot of riders just drive through it - if it's present, then you've got a base line for your adjustments once the AF-XIED's are installed and you can adjust til the surge is gone.

 

Hi Tac1-

Do you recall which NGK you are running?

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AdirondackJack
I'll get some pics posted.

I routed my cabling a bit differently.

I tie-wrapped the white connectors from the O2 sensors on the upper frame rails under the side covers.

Then I could hide the 4 boxes under the passenger seat, leaving the space under the rider's saddle open and clear.

 

Hi John!

 

Yes. Pics would be much appreciated. Problem is on my company show bike ('15 RT), I run a huge number of farkles, as it's part of our advertising and promotions effort. You can't imagine the number of folks who come up to us at the various shows and want to check out the latest farkles we are running. Therefore,between the Skene lights controllers, the air horn relay, the EZYCan, the audio upgrades, the AF-XIED controllers and RAM adapter (all under the seats), it gets a little crowded. I'd like to view your solution so I can decide what goes where.

 

BTW, thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. There is no doubt you made my life a lot easier because of your invaluable input.

 

Special shout out to Roger 04 rt for making all of this possible by working with Steve Mullen to develop a great performance upgrade like this.

 

Wonderful thing. . . . . a forum like this where we all work together to help each other. Like Hannibal Smith said in the A-Team: "I love it when a plan comes together!"

 

Best,

 

Dave R.

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AdirondackJack
David - I am running NGK LMAR9AI-8 spark plugs which are 1 step cooler than factory.

 

Hi Tac1!

 

And are these what's called Irridium plugs, and if so, what is supposed to be the advantage in using them? I think you said in a previous

post that using these actually worked out quite well with the AF-XIED chip, even though you had to change the setting on the chip

from 7 to 9, correct?

 

Rep

Edited by AdirondackJack
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AdirondackJack

Also Tac1-

 

Can you verify that these NGK plugs have an OEM part # of 97225, and are they sold per plug, or per set of 2? I noticed it both ways when I searched them online. Wasn't sure if the $11-$25 price was each or per set.

Edited by AdirondackJack
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Dave - these are the iridium plugs and they will run you about $14 each from Amazon - I am unsure of the OE pn. I've attached a link to advrider - 8 pages - which may help shed some light on the advantages of these plugs. FWIW, I did confirm the application of the plug LMAR9AI-8 with the NGK rep for the '14 GSA and '15 RT - he felt the iridium plug superior to the OEM plug in terms of durability and performance. I don't know if the iridium spark plugs have any correlation to changing the mixture settings on the AF-XIED's as I did not go back to the OE plugs for comparison. I can't tell you if there has been any change in fuel mileage with the change in the settings as I haven't kept track of the fuel mileage due to the varied road and driving conditions - back roads, interstate and mountain riding. And, based on why I enjoying riding motorcycles, fuel economy is not important to me.

 

https://advrider.com/index.php?threads/alternate-spark-plug-for-liquid-cooled-gsw.1109811/

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068O6BA0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

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AdirondackJack
Dave - these are the iridium plugs and they will run you about $14 each from Amazon - I am unsure of the OE pn. I've attached a link to advrider - 8 pages - which may help shed some light on the advantages of these plugs. FWIW, I did confirm the application of the plug LMAR9AI-8 with the NGK rep for the '14 GSA and '15 RT - he felt the iridium plug superior to the OEM plug in terms of durability and performance. I don't know if the iridium spark plugs have any correlation to changing the mixture settings on the AF-XIED's as I did not go back to the OE plugs for comparison. I can't tell you if there has been any change in fuel mileage with the change in the settings as I haven't kept track of the fuel mileage due to the varied road and driving conditions - back roads, interstate and mountain riding. And, based on why I enjoying riding motorcycles, fuel economy is not important to me.

 

https://advrider.com/index.php?threads/alternate-spark-plug-for-liquid-cooled-gsw.1109811/

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068O6BA0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

Thanks Tac1. I just ordered a set and am looking forward to trying them in my '15RT. $27 a pair on Amazon (delivered). Have you confirmed the correct gap? I think they are supposed to come with a .31 gap. Did you go with this, or did you emulate the slightly different gap for the OEM plugs? I'm thinking it's best to stay with the gap recommended for the NGK's. You concur?

Edited by AdirondackJack
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Yes Sir - verified the gap and installed them right from the box - NO anti-seize on the plugs for installation and torqued to 12Nm

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AdirondackJack

Perfect. Will advise when I get them in and install them. Also, Pics when I get the AF-XIED finished installing.

 

Best,

 

Dave R.

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  • 1 month later...
AdirondackJack

OK Tact 1: I know it's been about a month and a half since we spoke about this, but I've been busy with the patenting process and planning out my robotics venture. I've finally completed farkling the RTWC, and the bike is absolutely incredible. Recall that I came from driving the K16's, even though I am a former RT renegade. Sure is great to be back! Here is what I have found regarding the performance of the AF-XIED. There is no question that it does all that Roger and the rest of the guys claimed. . . . . . and more. I will take a moment in the next week to photo the install and share with everyone here. BTW, it worked out very tidily and everything packed well under the seat. I can even have the seat in the low position without pinching any of the wires.

 

I need some guidance with dialing in the settings on the AF-XIED chips:

currently I am running the OEM plugs with the stock setting that the chips arrived with. . . . . (7). While it's not excessive, I do get a little bit of backfiring at times, indicating to me that I may be running even richer than I should. I have a set of the iridium plugs which I purchased online, but I am thinking I should only change one thing at a time in order to dial in the bike's performance. The question is:should I change out the plugs and leave the settings at the (7) they came with, or change the settings with the OEM plugs still installed and see if I can first solve this bit of backfiring. Ultimately, I'd like to end up with the iridium plugs on an ongoing basis, so I could install them, and then dial in the correct chip[ settings. I can't recall which setting is recommended with the AF-XIED chips and the iridium plugs, but maybe someone can refresh my memory here.

 

As always, Thanks for the invaluable input from the group here.

 

Best,

 

Dave R.

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My ‘17 RTW popped once in a while on hard deceleration before installing the AF-XIED, for instance when I put it in 1st gear approaching a stop sign and my speed is high enough to boost the RPMs while it slows. I didn't pay much attention to it but it may backfire at the moment it comes out of Overrun Fuel Cutoff at around 1800 rpm. After installing the AF-XIED, the occasional popping stayed about the same. When I get back to the bike (soon) I'll try some tests. In the meantime try a higher and a lower setting, no harm, just ride for a tank or two of fuel before changing to give the BMSX time to adapt.

Edited by roger 04 rt
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I don't really know but don't think the plugs matter. I always run stock plugs unless I find a combustion reason to change (e.g. fouling lower plug suggestive of need for a hotter plug).

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My AF-XIED units showed up set at position 6 and I've been running them there. So far I haven't found any reason to mess with them.

Normally, a little backfiring is an indication of an overly lean condition.

 

I'm running stock spark plugs and I'm not getting any backfiring or burbling. I have a pretty good hill in the neighborhood. Before the ZF-XIED, I would be burbling when decelerating down the hill. No burbling now. With the weather turning cool and nit riding as much, I've switched over to non-ethanol fuel too. The RT seems to like it just fine.

Even idling around our little town streets, the slow speed nearly closed throttle surging is completely gone.

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