kalali Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 Hi. The steering damper on my R1100R has been leaking slowly and I'd like to try to rebuild it. Saw a video yesterday showing the process and looks relatively simple once its off the bike. But the issue I have is how to remove the front bolt which sits tightly below the front swingarm with no access to the top of the bolt. The bolt appears to be a hex /allen head. Anyone tried to remove the damper without having to disassemble the front suspension which seems to be real awkward? Thanks. Link to comment
kalali Posted June 12, 2018 Author Share Posted June 12, 2018 Well, stupid me! Turn the wheel to the right and the head of the bolt is exposed! Looks real simple. Should have had my coffee before I asked the question. Link to comment
dave_a Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 Can you post the video link please? Where did you find the seals & any other needed parts? I couldn't locate any. Link to comment
kalali Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 Here's the video: Its for a K1200LT but its the same process once you have it off the bike. The process does not include replacing the seals, it just shows how to disassemble and refill with the oil that has leaked out over time. I'm going to try it this weekend. Link to comment
kalali Posted June 14, 2018 Author Share Posted June 14, 2018 (edited) I just tried the process described in the video and no matter how much I tried I could not separate the shaft to make room to fill the inside of the damper. Maybe the R dampers are designed differently from the LT shown in the video. Instead, I tried to fill the shaft by removing the screw at its tip and slowly pouring the suspension fluid - 5w fork oil, inside the shaft and kept working the damper real slowly in and out until it appeared to be full. I could feel the tension building up in the damper as I kept sliding the shaft in and out while the fluid was being added. Tightened the screw and installed back on the bike. I feels nicer but the root cause of the issue which is slow leak from the seal is still there so I'll probably need to do this frequently if I really want to maintain the tension. Worth the try especially if the leak is very very small. Beats the replacement cost of $380 for a new one. Edited June 14, 2018 by kalali Link to comment
dirtrider Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 I just tried the process described in the video and no matter how much I tried I could not separate the shaft to make room to fill the inside of the damper. Maybe the R dampers are designed differently from the LT shown in the video. Instead, I tried to fill the shaft by removing the screw at its tip and slowly pouring the suspension fluid - 5w fork oil, inside the shaft and kept working the damper real slowly in and out until it appeared to be full. I could feel the tension building up in the damper as I kept sliding the shaft in and out while the fluid was being added. Tightened the screw and installed back on the bike. I feels nicer but the root cause of the issue which is slow leak from the seal is still there so I'll probably need to do this frequently if I really want to maintain the tension. Worth the try especially if the leak is very very small. Beats the replacement cost of $380 for a new one. Evening kalali If the leak is at a seal then try working a few cc's of power steering stop leak into the damper. Unless the seal is real bad or the shaft is pitted or bent that should eventually swell the seal a bit stop the leakage. Link to comment
kalali Posted June 15, 2018 Author Share Posted June 15, 2018 dirtrider, great tip, thanks. The leak is at the seal. I'll give that a try when I take it off the bike next time. Link to comment
The Fabricator Posted June 15, 2018 Share Posted June 15, 2018 If the seal never stops leaking from power steering fluid, replace the seal. I don't know a source for a seal. The dimensions are needed before any search. The ID is obviously the shaft diameter. The OD is the internal diameter of the cylinder. Those dimensions you can probably get without removing/damaging the seal. See if any are available and what widths are offered. If there is a good width size range available, then you can risk removing it. An internet search is the place to start for size research. Sometimes I go my local bearing house for advice and parts. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted June 15, 2018 Share Posted June 15, 2018 dirtrider, great tip, thanks. The leak is at the seal. I'll give that a try when I take it off the bike next time. Afternoon kalali Yes, that usually stops the seepage (might take a little bit of time though). I have used Power Steering stop-leak in a few & all but one has dried up (the one that didn't had a slightly bent shaft from a deer hit). I did one over 9 years ago for a friend & it is still dry. You don't HAVE to wait until you remove the damper as you can wipe a little film of stop leak on the shaft that it sticks out each end when you turn the bars so a little of that should wipe back into the seal interface (worth a try anyhow). You might have to do it a few times or more though. Link to comment
kalali Posted June 15, 2018 Author Share Posted June 15, 2018 Thanks again. I think finding aftermarket seals with the matching dimensions will be quite challenging. The stop-leak option seems like a no-brainer to try given all other options. Link to comment
dave_a Posted August 29, 2019 Share Posted August 29, 2019 My 99 R1100R damper was leaking. I tried the PS stop leak fluid. Unfortunatly, the fluid is leaking out again. Does anyone know a valid source for the seals? I haven't been able to find one after a far bit of time on the interwebs. The good news is I don't get any headshake, and the damn thing never had any oil in it since I bought the bike anyway. Link to comment
SAS Posted August 29, 2019 Share Posted August 29, 2019 Ok guys here it is. It took me about 4 months of research to find this info 4 years ago. The company is Blue Diamond a founder company of Rolwey.com in the UK. I also have an email address of a gal that works for them that I got in contact with to order the seals. Her name is Cheryl Frampton. and her email is: cheryl.frampton@rolwey.com I don't know if this email is still valid and don't know if she still works there as that was about 4 years ago, but here is another link to the company. https://www.qimtek.co.uk/profile/rolwey-group So the number you need to give her/him when contacting them is: 3797 113421 61010. They are the company that makes the seals for BMW Shimmy dampers. Link to comment
dave_a Posted September 1, 2019 Share Posted September 1, 2019 Cheryl gone, her email bounced back. No answer from Rolwey. Still trying. Anyone else have a seal source? Amazingly difficult to find these oil seals, been looking for quite a while myself. Link to comment
SAS Posted September 2, 2019 Share Posted September 2, 2019 Blue Diamond Engineering Solutions is the parent company that I went through even though Cheryl answered the inquiry. I guess you could call them there phone number is listed at the top of the page and also as I did I used the email system to get first contact, https://www.blue-diamond.co.uk/ Link to comment
dave_a Posted September 3, 2019 Share Posted September 3, 2019 SAS, Good news: I made contact with them via the second contact info you have. Their records show you ordered them in Nov. 2013. Bad news: Out of stock, 500qty. min order. Specs: BBD2651 SCNY 10-20-7.5 high pressure seal Link to comment
dirtrider Posted September 3, 2019 Share Posted September 3, 2019 2 hours ago, dave_a said: SAS, Good news: I made contact with them via the second contact info you have. Their records show you ordered them in Nov. 2013. Bad news: Out of stock, 500qty. min order. Specs: BBD2651 SCNY 10-20-7.5 high pressure seal Morning Dave You shouldn't have any problems finding a 10mm-20mm-7.5mm high pressure seal. Either online or at a local hydraulics shop. Link to comment
SAS Posted September 4, 2019 Share Posted September 4, 2019 Well Dave there you have it, D.R. to the rescue again! D.R. always seems to make it simpler. Thanks D.R. your the greatest.The Oracle is a good fit for you 1 Link to comment
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